Specifications
The electrical power supply can be checked with
the heater not set to re. All other procedures need to be
checked with power correctly supplied to the heater, all
external devices set so that the heater is allowed to re
and the heater's thermostat set so that there is a call for
heat.
As stated at the beginning of the manual, some of
these procedures are hazardous. Only a qualied service
technician should service the heater.
10.4.1 Electrical Power Supply
The electrical components of the Legacy Model
LRZ electronic pool heaters are designed to operate
with supply voltage ranging from 102V to 132V at 60
Hz if connected to a nominal 120 Volt power supply, or
204V to 264V at 60 Hz if connected to a nominal 240
Volt power supply. Measure supply voltage at the power
supply leads where they enter the heater to verify that
the correct voltage is supplied to the heater.
If no voltage is present, correct this external power
supply problem to the heater. Circuit breakers, time
clock settings or similar devices may be the problem.
Voltage outside of the above ranges may be due to
poor wiring, poor connections, other loads such as
air conditioning compressors or to an electric utility
company problem. Arrange for correction of the voltage
as appropriate.
10.4.2 Controller
The controller must be operational in order to
check the control circuits of the heater.
10.4.3 Control Circuit Troubleshooting
The heater controls are arranged in several 24V
60Hz circuits with some operating and safety controls
arranged in series circuits.
Troubleshooting is done by probing for voltage
between the common and various points in the circuit
to determine which component is preventing operation.
Check points are indicated on Figure 30. The black lead
of the meter should be attached to the common tap on
the secondary side of the transformer and may be left
there throughout most of the procedure.
The recommended procedure steps through each
circuit in a sequential way, and each section assumes
that components from all previous sections have been
tested and are operational. However, verifying voltage at
any of the numbered points in that circuit conrms that
all prior components of the circuit are operational.
10.4.3.1 Transformer
Attach the black lead of the voltmeter to the
terminal on the secondary side of the transformer of the
transformer with a yellow wire attached to it (common).
This is test point 1 on Figure 30. Touch the free red lead
of the voltmeter to the terminal on the secondary side of
the transformer with a red wire attached to it (24V tap),
test point 2. The voltmeter should read between 20-28
Volts AC. If the voltage does not fall within the limits
mentioned above, replace the transformer.
10.4.3.2 Fuse
Leave the black voltmeter lead in place at test
point 1. Touch the free lead of the voltmeter to test
point 3, which is on the Power Interface Board where
the red wire from the transformer enters the end of the
connector. You will need to push the voltmeter lead into
the back of the connector along side of the wire pin. The
meter should read 20-28 Volts AC. If there is no voltage,
the fuse has failed. Inspect the rest of the wiring,
especially the safety circuit, to be sure that there is no
“short” such as contact of a terminal with the heater
chassis or another terminal which may have caused the
fuse to fail. Correct any such condition and replace the
fuse. Use only a 2 amp, 1 1/4" long x 1/4" diameter,
quick acting, glass tube type fuse.
10.4.3.3 Water Pressure Switch
Start by checking the voltage at the two legs of
this circuit on the controller, see test points 4 and 5 in
Figure 30. Check the voltage at test point 4, where the
violet wire from the pressure switch enters the two-pin
connector on the controller. If there is not 20-28 Volts
AC nominal at this point, either the controller or the
two-pin wire harness is faulty and must be replaced. If
20-28 Volts AC nominal is detected at test point 4, then
move the red lead of the meter to test point 5 where the
gray wire from the Pressure Switch enters the two-pin
connector. If 20-28 Volts AC nominal is detected at
this point, the devices in this circuit are closed and the
circuit is working properly.
If there is no voltage the pressure switch contacts
are open. This is almost always due to a water ow
deciency, the most common one being a blocked
water lter or defective pump. However, sometimes
it is due to blockage of the copper siphon loop tube or
mis-adjustment of the switch. Investigate thoroughly,
referring to Section 7.7 on “Adjusting the Water
Pressure Switch”. If there is no problem with the pool
system or pressure switch adjustment, replace the
pressure switch.
10.4.3.4 Roll-Out Switch (Fusible Link)
To check the roll-out switch (fusible link)/air
louver/eld interlock circuit, place the red lead at test
point 6. If there is not 20-28 Volts AC nominal, either
the controller or the two-pin wire harness is faulty, or
the water pressure switch is open. If 20-28 Volts AC
nominal is detected at test point 6, then move the red
lead of the meter to test point 7. If 28 Volts AC nominal
is detected, the circuit is closed and working correctly.
If the proper voltage is not detected, the roll-out switch
(fusible link) or vent temperature limit has opened, or
the wire harness is faulty.
Page 38
ENGLISH
Jandy
®
Legacy™ Model LRZE Pool/Spa Heater by Zodiac
®
|
Installation and Operation Manual