X-6 Cubed Tuning Guide

K 030 X – 6 Cubed
Instruction Manual v1.0
Tuning Section Page 49
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flat front-to-rear, or perhaps a touch higher in the back. Lowering one end of the car will
give that end a little more grip, but extreme differences can make it more difficult to
control on the track.
CAMBER LINKS
Camber links are a complicated but effective adjustment on any R/C Car, and your X –
6 Cubed is no different. The inside hole groups are referred to by numbers, and the
outside holes are called by letter. The more inside the hole is, the lower the value.
Thus a “2B” rear camber link is in the outside hole of the rear bulkhead (2) and the
middle hole in the rear hub carrier (B); a “1A” link would be the inside holes in both.
Camber links adjust the car’s roll centers – points critical to understanding how the
suspension and chassis will lean or roll through a corner. Without going through the
geometry here, remember this: the shorter and more angled down the camber links are
(inside lower than the outside), the higher the roll centers are. A higher roll center
reacts more quickly but with less overall effect. Thus, removing washers or shortening
links makes the car react more quickly but have less total roll. Adding washers or
lengthening the link will slow down the reactions but make the car feel stiffer. Changing
washers is generally a smaller effect than changing the length of the link. Remember:
Less washers (inside) = shorter link = higher roll center = more aggressive
More washers (inside) = longer link = lower roll center = slower, stiffer
If the above is the theoretical look at camber links, here’s a more direct view: In the
front, removing washers/shortening the link will quicken steering response but give the
front less roll, leading to a possible mid-corner push, or steering which seems to wash
out. A longer link will slow the reaction but give you more mid-corner steering. In the
rear, removing washers/shortening the link means the back end will roll less and square
up out of corners better. A longer link will give more rear traction in corners.
For a more systematic approach: Think about the outside ball studs first. The further
out in the hub carrier or caster block you run, the more “square” that end of the car will
run. This is especially felt in the rear: the ‘C’ hole in the rear hub carrier has more side
bite in the corner, but when the car does break loose it will spin hard. The ‘A’ hole will
let the rear end slide more, but it’s much easier to control with throttle. The inside holes
go through bumps a little better, too. Secondly, look at inside ball stud location: the
inside hole (longer links) will give more traction and feel safer while the outside hole is
more aggressive. Last, find the number of ball stud washers you like: more washers will
give that end of the car more corner traction but slow down its response.