Wowings Booby CONSTRUCTION MANUAL Copyright 2005 Wowings www.wowings.
Thank you very much for purchasing the Booby. Although made primarily of soft EPP foam, this RC slope glider is still capable of causing significant damage to property and serious personal injury or death to bystanders or yourself. Please ensure that you fly this model in a safe and responsible manner and obey your local laws and regulations. By building and/or flying the Booby you assume all responsibility for any damage or injury it may cause.
Read through the following instructions entirely prior to starting so that you have an overview of what is involved. Please don’t be tempted to deviate from these instructions unless you are an experienced builder and are certain that your changes won’t negatively affect the structural integrity or flying performance of the Booby. These instructions are based in metric units but I have also tried to include the equivalent imperial measurement as much as possible. For your reference, 1 inch (”) equals 25.
too heavy and that they are spread fairly evenly. Plastic shopping bags partly filled with sand make ideal weights. It may be easier if you remove the top portion of the wing beds by cutting along the leading edge. Leave overnight (or as per glue’s instructions) in this position while the glue fully cures. WING ASSEMBLY 7. Locate the five (5) pieces of balsa wood. Two are marked out for the two fixed trailing edge pieces and two are marked out with the two ailerons.
15. As per ailerons, sand a 45 degree bevel along the leading edge of the balsa elevator, with the 45 degree opening on its bottom surface (ie. hinged on top surface). 16. As per ailerons, round off the top and bottom edges of each end of the balsa elevator piece and put it aside to be installed later. 17. Round off the top and bottom edges of each wing tip using a sharp knife. You may also wish to round the leading edge corners of the wing tips when viewed from above. 18.
27. Using hot-melt glue (best), spray adhesive (sprayed into a puddle and then spread on) or 5 minute epoxy (not ideal), glue the base slice back into the bottom of the battery cut-out hole, creating a base for the battery recess. Use the markings you made to orientate it correctly, ensuring a perfect fit. 28. Mark out the same size area (approx. 50mm x 55mm) in the same position on the other nose. This recess will be used later for accommodating weight in the form of layers of 1mm (approx.
34. Draw a line 5mm (3/16”) back from the edge of the spar slot in the middle of the central wing panel. Draw another line at right angles to this in the exact middle of the wing running a little way towards the trailing edge. 35. Lay you mini size elevator servo on top of the wing so that one of its sides (or mounting lugs) is up against the line you marked 5mm (3/16”) back from the spar slot and its servo arm is in line with the line you marked as the middle of the wing.
this outline, and a top slice if you’ve decided to have your receiver embedded below the surface. Mark the top of the slice(s) with an “x” for later reference and discard the remaining piece of the plug. 41. Glue the bottom slice of the foam plug into the bottom of the receiver cut-out hole forming a base for the receiver recess. Use the marks on its front side and top to orientate it correctly, ensuring a perfect fit. If you have a top slice, put it aside for later use as lid over the receiver. 42.
servos plug into your receiver’s aileron channel via the “Y” lead, with the servo on the other side of the wing requiring a servo extension lead (300mm). The mini size elevator servo is plugged into the elevator channel of your receiver. 46. Make sure the servo arms are centered in the correct position when everything is turned on and the transmitter trims are in their neutral position. The servo arms should be pointing directly upwards, or leaning just slightly rearwards.
TAPING & COVERING These instructions are based on using 48mm/50mm (2”) wide strapping tape with fiberglass filaments, hereto referred to simply as “filament tape”. We recommend using the cross-weave variety throughout. However, for those of you wanting to keep weight to a minimum (sacrificing a little strength and durability), this can be replaced in many instances by the uni-directional (lengthwise filaments) variety or even just 36mm (1 1/2”) wide filament tape (uni-directional filaments).
63. Now spray the entire top surface with 3M Super 77 (“multi-purpose”) spray adhesive and let dry for 5 minutes (or until aggressively tacky). 64. Apply cross-weave filament tape patches over the servos and receiver (if mounted flush with the top surface) to help hold them securely in place. 65. Apply strips of filament tape to the top surface of the wing as per illustration (same as bottom surface).
79. It’s now time for covering. Spray the entire underside of the glider with spray adhesive and let dry for 5 minutes (or until aggressively tacky). 80. Bend over the ailerons and elevator and cover the hinge gap area using 48mm or 50mm (2”) wide coloured polypropylene covering tape. Then proceed with the rest of the wing’s bottom surface starting with the elevator.
88. Locate the two packs of Dubro E-Z Connectors included in the kit (you will have one connector spare). Install the Dubro E-Z connectors onto the control horns. Just use the reuseable nylon push-nut for now until its position on the control horn has been finalized. The second hole from the top is a good place to start. Later, when you’re sure about their position, it’s a good idea to remove the nylon push-nuts and replace them with the permanent metal ones.
98. Cut off a 25mm (1”) piece of this covered tape and slide it into the slit you made in the leading edge of the fin so that the fin has tape sticking out either side and in front of it. Push the fin all the way down and secure with the tape onto the top surface of the wing. 99. Take another strip of this covered filament tape (or clear tape) and secure the trailing edge of the fin by wrapping the tape down and around to the bottom surface of the fixed balsa trailing edge piece.
108. Don’t try and fudge the measurement and think you’ll get away with it! 109. Once you have accurately determined the amount of lead needed for correct balance, drill the holes in the foam to accommodate it. Drill from the bottom surface and stop before penetrating through to the filament tape on the top surface of the wing. You can then fill these holes with the lead shaped into cylindrical pieces eg. fishing sinker hammered into shape or a piece of the lead flashing rolled into a cylinder.
113. The fourth most common cause of a poorly performing glider is radio equipment that is setup incorrectly, has faulty components, flat batteries or suffers interference. Double check that everything is functioning correctly and that the elevator and ailerons are moving in the correct directions. When viewed from the rear, the elevator should move up when your transmitter’s elevator stick is pulled back for “up” control and should move down when the elevator stick is pushed forward for “down” control.
For those of you that may be wondering what I believe the first most common cause of a poorly performing glider is… it’s the pilot! Of course the opposite is also true; an expert pilot can often even manage to make a dodgy glider look like it’s flying well. These instructions won’t go into any details about correct flying techniques because the glider is designed for experienced flyers.
