User Manual
21
Making a mitre joint
Joining mitring perfectly is an art
all by itself, but with the Under-
cover Jig, even this works first
time. It is only necessary to fas-
ten the workpieces on the work-
bench with a clamp in order to
obtain exact and seamless mitre
joints.
Clamp one of the mitres toge-
ther with the drill guide on the
workbench. For reasons of sta-
bility, and so that the mitring
does not become distorted,
there should always be two ho-
les per mitring. For particularly
narrow frames, drill only one
hole and reinforce the mitring
with glue.
Even for a mitre joint, it is es-
sential
how precisely the two
wood
pieces are fixed to each
other. The board must not un-
der any circumstances be allo-
wed to slip during the screwing
process. The reward is a per-
fect
and almost invisible joint,
which
is also more durable that
any dowel joint.
Making a frame
Picture frames and radiator pa-
nelling, where only the outside
of the frame is visible, are per-
fect examples of the applica-
tion of the Undercover Jig. Af-
ter two holes have been drilled
in the two diagonal frame pie-
ces at the face ends, the whole
frame can be fixed with clamps
and permanently and very
durably jointed with two chip-
board screws each.
Regardless of the form of the
frame or the frame corner, using
the Undercover Jig you can
joint almost everything simply
and rapidly with two ordinary
chipboard screws, without any
expense for machines or acces-
sories
. Since no special screws
are necessary, you can obtain
supplies of the appropriate join-
ting
screws in any DIY market.
In future, you will be able to
screw shelf bottoms from in-
side or from below and will no
longer have to screw through
the side wall as you used to
have to.
Important safety tip: children
who like to climb love to use
shelves as a ladder, so shelves
should not simply be laid on
shelf supports, but screwed
firmly to the side walls – a clear
case for the Undercover Jig!
Joining shelf bottoms
Undercover jigMitre and frame joint
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