Winora Group Bike Manual Englisch
Mountain Bike (MTB) Handlebars Stem Saddle Shift lever Brake system Seat post Headset Seat post clamp u Rear shock Rear brake w Drive Front derailleur II. III. Wheel x Cassette sprockets Rear derailleur Brake Rotor I. v Brake lever Quick-release IV. Tyre Crankset Hub Chain Spoke Pedal Frame 1 Top tube 2 Down tube 3 Seat tube 4 Chainstay Suspension fork I. Fork crown II. Stanchion tube III. Lower leg IV.
Trekking Bike Saddle Seat post Stem Handlebars Shift lever Headset Brake system Seat post clamp Brake lever Pannier rack Brake Lighting Rear light Lighting Rear brake u Reflector w Mudguard Front light I. Hub dynamo II. v Reflector ring III. Drive Wheel Front derailleur Quick-release x Cassette sprockets IV. Rear derailleur Tyre Hub Crankset Spoke Chain Pedal Kickstand Frame 1 Top tube 2 Down tube 3 Seat tube 4 Chainstay Suspension fork I. Fork crown II.
Road Racing Bike Handlebars Stem Headset Shift lever Saddle Seat post Brake system Brake lever Seat post clamp Rear brake Brake u w Drive v I. Wheel Front derailleur Cassette sprockets II. x Rear derailleur Quick-release Tyre Crankset Hub Chain Spoke Pedal Frame 1 Top tube 2 Down tube 3 Seat tube 4 Chainstay Fork I. Fork blade II.
1 Welcome In purchasing this bicycle you have chosen a product of high quality and technology. Each component of your new bicycle has been designed, manufactured and assembled with great care and expertise. Your dealer gave the bicycle its final assembly and performed a function check to guarantee proper operation. You can now set off to enjoy your new bicycle feeling safe and secure.
Before you set off, let us point out a few things that are very important to every cyclist: Never ride without a properly adjusted helmet and without glasses and take care to always wear suitable clothing. At least you should wear straight cut trousers and shoes fitting the pedal system. Always ride carefully on public roads and observe the traffic rules so as not to endanger yourself or others. This manual cannot teach you how to ride.
Imprint Editor and photos: WINORA GROUP Winora-Staiger GmbH D-97404 Schweinfurt Phone: +49 (0) 9721 / 65 01-0 Mail: info@winora-group.de Web: www.winora-group.de Concept, text, photos, graphic design and editorial team: Zedler – Institut für Fahrradtechnik und -Sicherheit GmbH D-71634 Ludwigsburg Mail: info@zedler.de Web: www.zedler.de Technical details in the text and illustrations of this manual are subject to change.
Contents 1 Welcome Imprint Table of Contents 1.1 General Notes on this Manual 1.2 Before Your First Ride 1.3 Before Every Ride 1.4 After an Accident 1.5 How to use Quick-Releases and Thru Axles 1.5.1 Quick-Releases 1.5.2 Thru Axles 1 3 4 7 8 10 12 13 13 15 2 Intended Use 2.1 General Overview 2.1.1 City, Touring, Sports, Kids’ and Youth Bicycles 2.1.2 Trekking Bicycles / ATB 2.1.3 Mountain Bikes (MTB) / Cross Bicycles 2.1.4 Road Racing Bicycles 2.2 Intended use – HAIBIKES 2.2.1 Performance Line 2.2.
5.3 Disc Brakes 5.3.1 Checking Hydraulic Disc Brakes 5.3.2 Checking and Readjusting Mechanical Disc Brakes 5.4 Roller, Drum and Back-pedal Brakes 5.4.1 Checking and Readjusting Hand-Operated Brakes 5.4.2 Checking and Readjusting Back-Pedal Brakes 39 39 39 42 42 43 6 Drive System 44 6.1 Gears 44 6.1.1 Bottom Bracket - Crankset 44 6.2 Derailleur Gears 45 6.2.1 Derailleur Gears – How They Work and How to Operate Them on Mountain, Fitness, City, Kids’ and Trekking Bicycles 45 6.2.
11 Dirt-, Freeride-, Downhill-Bikes – Special Features 11.1 Adjusting the Correct Saddle Height 86 87 12 Lighting 12.1 Bottle Dynamo 12.2 Hub Dynamo 12.3 Troubleshooting 88 88 88 88 13 Kids’ Bicycles 13.1 useful Information for parents 13.2 Adjustment 90 90 91 14 Adjusting the Bicycle to the Rider 14.1 Adjusting the Saddle to the Correct Height 14.1.1 What to Bear in Mind with Integrated Seat Posts 14.2 Adjusting the Height of the Handlebars 14.2.1 Adjustable Stems 14.2.2 Conventional Stems 14.2.
1.1 General Notes on this Manual The technology of today’s bicycles has become very complex. As there is a vast range of bicycle components, this manual focuses on the most important parts including general features. Therefore, be sure to observe the additional adjustment and/or maintenance instructions of the respective component manufacturers that you have received from your bicycle dealer together with this manual.
1.2 Before Your First Ride Please be aware that the distance you need to stop your bicycle increases, when you are riding with your hands on an aerodynamic handlebar, on a multiposition handlebar or on bar ends (c). The brake levers are not within easy reach. 1. Be sure to use your bicycle only for its intended purpose, as it may otherwise not stand up to the stress and fail! Risk of an accident! For more information on the intended use read chapter “Intended use”. 4.
6. If your bicycle is equipped with clipless or step-in pedals (a), do not set off until you have practised engaging and disengaging the shoes from the pedals in stationary (b). For more information see chapter “proper Cycling Equipment”. Be sure to also read the operating instructions for the pedals delivered by your bicycle dealer.
1.3 Before Every Ride 4. Test the brakes while stationary by firmly pulling the brake levers towards the handlebars (c). Your bicycle has undergone numerous tests during production and a final check has been carried out by your bicycle dealer. Nevertheless, be sure to check the following points to exclude any malfunctioning that may be due to the transport of your bicycle or to work a third person may have performed on your bicycle before delivery: 1.
7. If your bicycle has suspension, check the frame: Press down on your bicycle and see whether the spring elements retract and extend as usual (a+b). Do not forget to take a high quality D- or chain lock (d) with you on your ride. The only way to effectively protect your bicycle against theft is to lock it to an immovable object. For more information see chapters “Suspension Forks” and “Rear Shock”. Further notes regarding full-suspension bicycles and forks may be enclosed with this manual. 8.
1.4 After an Accident 1. Check whether the wheels are still firmly fixed in the drop-outs and whether the rims are still centred with respect to the frame or fork. Spin the wheels. If the width of the gap changes markedly and you cannot true the rim where you are, you will need to open the rim brakes a little so that the rim can run between the brake pads without touching them. Caution: This will reduce the braking performance. For more information see chapters “Brake System” and “Wheels and Tyres”. 2.
1.5 How to use Quick-Releases and Thru Axles Make sure the levers of both quick-releases at the front and rear wheel are always on the side opposite to the chain. This will help you to avoid mounting the front wheel the wrong way round. By contrast, with disc brakes the front quick-release is usually mounted with its lever to the right. 1.5.1 Quick-Releases Your bicycle is fitted with quick-releases to ensure fast adjustments, assembly and disassembly.
Over the second half of its travel the resistance you feel should increase significantly. Towards the end of its travel you should need very much strength to close the lever. Use the ball of your thumb to push it in all the way while your fingers pull on an immovable part, such as the fork or the rear stay ((c) p. 13) , but not on a rotor or spoke. If your bicycle is equipped with quick-releases (c), be sure to lock the frame to an immovable object together with the wheels when you leave it outside.
1.5.2 Thru Axles Thru axles are mounted when the bicycle has to withstand high stress occurring e.g. during freeriding, downhill riding etc. or jumps. They provide suspension forks with a suitable stiffness. Before mounting or replacing a fork/wheel combination, be sure to read the operating instructions of the respective suspension fork or wheel manufacturer first. Notes on How to Mount Thru Axle Wheels There is a wide range of thru axle systems available now.
To mount the axle use only the tools recommended by the manufacturer. Make it a rule to use a torque wrench (b). Tighten carefully by approaching the prescribed maximum torque in small steps (0.5 Nm increments) whilst constantly checking the proper fit of the component. Never exceed the maximum tightening torque indicated by the manufacturer! Over tightening the axle can damage the axle or the fork leg. Perform the rear wheel mounting in the usual manner.
2 Intended Use 2.1 General Overview Please observe the following information on our HAIBIKE, Sinus, Staiger and Winora bicycles. Please follow the tips provided in section “Safe Cycling on Public Roads” in chapter “Useful Tips for Cycling in Town and Country”. 2.1.1 City, Touring, Sports, Kids’ and Youth Bicycles (a+b) Provided the bicycle is equipped according to the road traffic (licencing) regulations of your country! This type of bicycle is not designed for any other use than the intended one.
Be sure to observe the regulations for riding on public roads in your country, if you want to participate in road traffic with your child. For more information see chapter “Legal Requirements for Riding on public Roads“. 2.1.2 Trekking Bicycles / ATB (a+b) Due to their design and equipment, e.g. with active and passive lighting devices, this type of bicycle is intended to be used on public roads and hard-surface tracks. Furthermore, it can be used for riding on easy terrain, e.g.
This type of bicycle is neither suitable for all-mountain and enduro use, dowhnhill riding/freeride parks, jumps, drops etc., nor for competitive use, such as downhill, dual slalom, freeride races etc. 2.1.4 Road Racing Bicycles (a+b) Due to its design and components the road racing bicycle is intended to be used for training purposes on roads with tarred, sufficiently paved and smooth surfaces.
Bicycles delivered with this manual are only designed to be used by one person (a) and not to be ridden hands-free. Overstress may result in breakage or failure of essential components, such as e.g. frame, handlebars or forks. This can lead to an accident with unforeseeable consequences including death! Trailers (b) must be mounted to models with hydraulic brake systems only! Only use appropriate trailers that were mounted professionally by your bicycle dealer.
2.2 Intended use – HAIBIKES The Performance Line, Comp Line and Special Edition bicycles are usually not compliant with the vehicle safety standards and road traffic licensing regulations. Please read up on the applicable regulations in your country. 2.2.1 performance Line Youth Mountain Bike (a) Designed for leisure and recreational cycling on hard-surface tracks, not a sports bicycle! Not suitable for any competitions whatsoever.
2.2.3 Special Edition The equipment to be mounted on frames and framesets should comply with the respective series-production bicycles. This applies in particular to the quality and sizes of stems, seat posts etc. as well as to tyre widths and permitted effective lengths (travel) of forks and rear shocks. If in doubt, ask your bicycle dealer or our after-sales service for advice. XC Line (a) Designed for off-road cycling, i.e. cross-country (XC) and marathon cycling for training and competitive purposes.
2.2.4 Life Line Life Line bicycles (a+b) were developed by and for women and their specific needs. Mountain Bike Designed for off-road cycling, i.e. cross-country (XC) and marathon cycling, as well as for competitions of this kind. Not suitable for all-mountain, enduro, downhill (DH) riding, freeride, dual slalom, downhill/freeride parks, jumps, drops etc. Permissible overall weight (accumulated weight of rider, baggage in rucksack and bicycle): 120 kg.
2.3 Intended use – Winora Bicycles Trailers must be mounted to models with hydraulic brake systems only! Only use suitable trailers that were mounted professionally by your bicycle dealer. Full-suspension models are generally not approved for trailer mounting. 2.3.1 Trekking Line / S.u.B. Line (a) Designed for riding on public roads and hard-surfaced tracks as well as on easy terrain, e.g. on trails and designated bicycle routes through forests. Permissible overall weight: 140 kg.
2.3.5 ATB Line (a) Designed for riding on public roads and hard-surfaced tracks as well as on easy terrain, e.g. on trails and designated bicycle routes through forests. These bicycles are not sports bicycles. Not suitable for any kind of competition or show event. Permissible overall weight: 100 kg. Not suitable for child carrier and trailer mounting! Baggage transport in rucksack or retro fitted pannier rack only. Ask your bicycle dealer for suitable pannier racks which match the fixing points. 2.3.
2.4 Intended use – Staiger Bicycles Trailers must be mounted to models with hydraulic brake systems only! Only use suitable trailers that were mounted professionally by your bicycle dealer. Full-suspension models are generally not approved for trailer mounting. 2.4.3 Sport Line (c) Designed for typical trekking use off public roads and on tracks and designated bicycle routes through forests. Permissible overall weight: 140 kg. Maximum trailer load: 40 kg.
2.5 Intended use – Sinus Bicycles Trailers must be mounted to models with hydraulic brake systems only! Only use suitable trailers that were mounted professionally by your bicycle dealer. Full-suspension models are generally not approved for trailer mounting. 2.5.2 Trekking Edition (b+c) Designed for riding on public roads and hard-surfaced tracks as well as on easy terrain, e.g. on trails and designated bicycle routes through forests. Permissible overall weight: 140 kg. Maximum trailer load: 40 kg.
2.5.4 Cross Edition (a) 2.5.6 Designed for typical trekking use off public roads and on tracks and designated bicycle routes through forests. Permissible overall weight: 140 kg. Maximum trailer load: 40 kg. With a trailer the permissible overall weight is reduced by the trailer load. Example: Trailer load 30 kg, permissible overall weight of the bicycle 110 kg. 2.5.
3 Legal Requirements for Riding on Public Roads If you want to use your bicycle for riding on public roads, it has to be equipped according to the regulations of your country. Pay particular attention to your bicycle being equipped with the prescribed set of lights (a) and reflectors (b). Ask your bicycle dealer to inform you about the regulations in force in your country. Make yourself familiar with the road traffic regulations for riding on public roads and off-road.
4 Useful Tips for Cycling in Town and Country 4.1 Safe Cycling on public Roads Tips on how to ride safely on public roads: Keep in mind your bicycle is not only sports equipment (a), but also an ecofriendly means of transport. Many cities and villages are very committed to improving cycling conditions by creating cycle lanes and by allowing cyclists to ride the wrong way up one-way streets. When you set off on your bicycle always be aware that you are among the vulnerable road user groups.
i) The following places are typical accident blackspots, where you should cycle with particular caution: Junctions, even with a cycle lane parallel to the road; danger by cars running in the same direction and turning to the left or right; danger by oncoming traffic. Crossing railway tracks can be hazardous for cyclists, as a trapped front wheel can throw the cyclist off. Be sure to cross railway tracks at right angle. With a truck or bus besides you, e.g. in front of traffic lights.
5 Brake System 5.1 General Information Brakes (a+b) are used for adjusting one’s speed to the surrounding terrain and traffic. In an emergency situation, the brakes must bring the bicycle to a halt as quickly as possible. In the process of such emergency braking, the rider’s weight shifts forward, thus reducing the load on the rear wheel (c+d).
The assignment of brake lever to brake calliper can vary (a), e.g. left lever acts on front brake. Make yourself familiar with the lever-to-brake assignment or ask your bicycle dealer to change the brakes as you want them. Be careful while getting used to the brakes (b). Practise emergency stops in a place free of traffic until you are comfortable controlling your bicycle. This can save you from having accidents. 5.1.
5.2 Rim Brakes Have your rims regularly inspected and measured by a bicycle dealer (c). The friction generated by braking causes wear to the brake pads (a) as well as to the rims. Frequent rides in the rain and dirt and over hilly terrain can accelerate wear on both braking surfaces. Rims are provided with wear indicators, i.e. grooves (b) or circular indentations. If the rim is worn down to the point where the grooves or indentations are no longer visible, they need to be replaced.
The brake lever must always remain clear of the handlebars. You should not even be able to pull them all the way to the handlebars in the event of an emergency stop. Only a successful passing of all these points will ensure a correctly adjusted brake. Adjusting the position of the brake pads relative to the rims requires a considerable degree of skill. Replacing and adjusting the brake pads is a job best left to your bicycle dealer. 5.2.1.
5.2.2 Racing and/or Side-pull Brakes 5.2.2.2 Vertical Adjustment With side-pull brakes (a) the brake arms are suspended from a common point, thus forming an integral system. When actuating the brake lever, both arms are tightened by the cable, the pads touch the rim. Release the fastening bolt of the brake pad by one to at most two complete turns (b). Push the brake pad to the correct height and align it according to the rim before retightening the fastening bolt to the specified torque. 5.2.2.
5.2.3 Cyclocross Cantilever Brakes Some cyclocross bicycles (a) are fitted with additional brake levers (b) to ensure braking from a secure handlebar position, i.e. with the hands on the horizontal part of a drop bar. These brake levers can be used on an equal footing, but not simultaneously with the other brake levers. In cyclocross conditions standard side-pull brakes would get clogged with mud.
5.2.4.1 Checking and Readjusting Check the pads regularly for wear and alignment. Indicators, i.e. usually grooves in the pads, tell you whether the brake pads are worn down or not. If the pads are worn down to the bottom of the grooves, it is time to replace them (b). Keep the brake callipers, especially the brake pad area, clean, as dirt can prevent the pads from travelling back in their rest position. Regularly check the lines and connections for leaks.
5.3 Disc Brakes If your brake system works with DOT brake fluid, the latter needs to be replaced regularly according to the intervals prescribed by the manufacturer. The most striking feature of disc brakes (a) is that they combine outstanding braking power with good weather resistance. They respond a lot faster in wet conditions than rim brakes do and achieve their normal high braking power within a very short time. They require fairly little maintenance and do not wear down the rims as rim brakes do.
Check the pads for wear by inspecting the thickness of the braking material attached to the backing plate within the brake calliper (a) or view through the window on the upper side of the calliper (b). If there is approximately 1mm of material left on each brake pad, remove the pads according to the manufacturer’s instructions, check them thoroughly and replace them, if necessary. Dirty brake pads and rotors can lead to drastically reduced braking power.
Some models offer further ways of adjusting the brakes directly at the brake calliper, though this requires a certain amount of skill. In any case, be sure to read the original instructions of the brake manufacturer before adjusting the brakes. If you are in doubt or if you have any questions, please contact your bicycle dealer! Damaged cables (b) should be replaced immediately, as they can snap. Repeated readjustment at the brake lever can drastically reduce the maximum braking performance.
5.4 Roller, Drum and Back-pedal Brakes These types of brakes are hardly found any more and only still common on city (a) and kids’ bicycles (b). The brake mechanism of these brakes is fully enclosed and combined with a geared hub. Their brake pads and surfaces are largely protected against the influences of the weather. The braking force is transmitted through cables from the levers to the brakes. 5.4.
Check regularly whether the torque support is still firmly attached to the frame or fork (a). Use a torque wrench and never exceed the maximum tightening torque! You will find the prescribed values in chapter “Recommended Tightening Torques”, directly on the components and/or in the manuals of the component manufacturers. With back-pedal brakes the chain tension has to be checked regularly (c). The amount of play, midway between chainring and sprocket, should not be more than two centimetres.
6 Drive System The drive system includes all bicycle parts that are crucial for the transmission of the pedalling power to the rear wheel (a+b), i.e. bottom bracket, crankset-chainrings, pedals, sprockets and chain. 6.1 Gears The gears on your bicycle serve to adjust your pedalling power to the terrain you are riding on and the desired speed.
6.2 Derailleur Gears Derailleur gears are currently the most effective type of power transmission on bicycles. With specially designed sprocket teeth, flexible chains and indexed lever positions, gear shifting has become very easy. Some systems have an indicator on the handlebars showing the currently used gear. Modern bicycles can have up to 33 speeds.
With the Shimano Dual Control (a) gear and brake lever components, the brake lever has to be pushed downward to shift to the smaller sprockets and larger chainrings. Pulling the lever upward or actuating the small thumb shifter located under the handlebars, will give you a larger sprocket and a smaller chainring, both leading to a lower gear. It is therefore crucial when switching gears to continue pedalling smoothly and without too much force.
With Shimano Dual Control levers (a), swivelling the entire brake lever inward shifts the chain towards the larger sprockets. Up to three sprockets can be shifted per tap. Moving the small lever alone that is located behind the brake lever the chain moves towards the smaller sprockets, but only one sprocket per tap. With the Shimano Sora and 2200 group swivelling the entire brake lever inward, shifts the chain towards the larger sprockets.
6.3 Checking and Readjusting Derailleur Gears If you have a road racing bicycle the adjustment is carried out by turning the adjusting bolts at the right cable stop on the down tube. There is another adjusting bolt directly at the rear derailleur. The derailleur gears of your bicycle were carefully adjusted by your dealer before delivery. However, Bowden cables may stretch a little on the first kilometres/miles, making gear shifting imprecise.
6.3.2 Checking the Limit Stops The limit screws are adjusted by your bicycle dealer. They do not alter their position during normal use. If your bicycle has tipped over or the rear derailleur received a blow, the rear derailleur or its mount might be bent. It is advisable to check its range of movement and readjust the limit screws, if necessary, after such an incident or after mounting new wheels on your bicycle (a). Shift with the right shifting lever to the highest gear.
6.3.3 Front Derailleur Adjusting the front derailleur is a very delicate job. Improper adjustment can cause the chain to jump off, thus interrupting the power train. This can cause an accident! The range within which the front derailleur (a) keeps the chain on the chainring without itself touching the chain is very small. This adjustment is a job best left to your bicycle dealer. Be sure to go on a test ride in a place free of traffic, after adjusting the gears of your bicycle.
6.4 Multi-Speed Hubs (Internal Gear Hubs) 6.4.1 Multi-Speed Hubs – How They Work and How to use Them Two advantages of multi-speed hubs (a) are their enclosed design and the fact that you can switch through all gears by the same lever. Besides this, the chain lasts a lot longer than with derailleur gears, provided it is serviced regularly. Multi-speed or internal gear hubs from Shimano are available with a freewheel, i.e.
Twist grip shifter for NuVinci hubs: To change gears, twist the grip, stop pedalling for a moment and do not apply any load to the pedals. You need not stop to do so. Smooth gear shifting is best with the pedals on a vertical line, i.e. one above the other. Practise switching gears in a place free of traffic until you are familiar with the functioning of the shift levers or twist grips of your bicycle. 6.4.2 Checking and Readjusting Multi-speed hubs need not be adjusted very often.
6.5.1 Combined Derailleur/Hub Gears – How They Work and How to use Them 6.5.2 Readjusting (Internal Gear Hubs) With a Shimano Intego gear system you can shift through the gears of the speed hub with the shifter and lever on the left side. The speed hub of the combined gear system is adjusted, as described in chapter “Multi-Speed Hubs (Internal Gear Hubs)”, the derailleur gears as described in chapters “Derailleur Gears” and “Rear Derailleur”.
6.7 Chain 6.7.2 Chain Wear 6.7.1 Chain Maintenance Regular and correct lubrication of your bicycles chain makes for enjoyable riding and prolongs its service life. It is not the quantity, but the distribution and regular application of lubricant that counts. Clean the dirt and oil off your chain with an oily rag from time to time (a). Special degreasers are not necessary. Having cleaned the chain as thoroughly as possible, apply chain oil, wax or grease to the chain links (b).
6.7.3 Adjusting the Chain Tension of Single Speed Bicycles and Multi-Speed Hubs The chain tension of single speed bicycles has to be checked and re-tensioned, if necessary, after approx. 1,000 km (620 miles) or 50 hours of use. The amount of play, midway between chainring and sprocket, should not be more than two centimetres (a). Release the rear wheel axle bolts or nuts with an appropriate tool. Adjust the chain tension by pulling the rear wheel to the rear or by releasing/tightening the chain tensioner.
7 Wheels and Tyres The wheel consists of the hub, the spokes and the rim. The tyre is mounted onto the rim so that it encases the inner tube. There is a rim tape running around the trough of the rim to protect the sensitive inner tube against the spoke nipples and the edges of the rim trough, which are often sharp (a). The wheels are subjected to considerable stress through the weight of the rider and any carried baggage as well as through bumpy road surfaces and terrain.
Tyres have to be inflated to the correct air pressure. Properly inflated tyres are also more resistant to punctures. An insufficiently inflated inner tube can easily get pinched (“snakebite”), when it goes over a sharp kerb. Tubular tyres for road racing bicycles. This tyre provides an airtight design without inner tube. In case of a puncture there is no inner tube to be removed or repaired. This particular design requires special rims without rim flanges.
The car valve can be inflated with a suitable pump directly after removing the protective cap. With Presta valves you first have to undo the small knurled nut a little and depress it carefully until air starts to escape (a). Check the nut is tightened and seated in its stem, otherwise air may slowly leak out. Tyres with car valves can conveniently be inflated at car filling stations with a compressed air dispenser. The same applies to Presta valves fitted with a special adapter.
7.3 Wheel Fastening with Quick-Releases 7.4 Wheel Fastening with Thru Axle Systems The wheels are attached to the frame at the hub axles. Each axle is clamped tight in the drop-outs (a) by means of a quick-release. There is a wide range of different thru axle systems (d) currently available. Quick-releases require no tools at all. Just release the lever (b), unscrew it a few turns, if necessary, and take out the wheel (see chapter “How to use Quick-Releases and Thru Axles“).
7.5 puncture Flat tyres are the most common cause of puncture during cycling. However, as long as you have the necessary tools for changing tyres and inner tubes and a spare tube or a repair kit, this need not mean the end of your cycle ride. For bicycles with quick-releases all you need in addition are two tyre levers and a pump (a). Be sure to read chapters “Wheel Mounting” and“How to Use Quick-Releases and Thru Axles” before wheel removal.
Rotors can become hot, so let them cool down before removing a wheel. In case you are in doubt about how to handle thru axles, please contact your bicycle dealer. Please read the operating instructions of the brake and the gear manufacturer. In the case of combined derailleur and internal gear hubs the clickbox must also be removed first before you can dismount the rear wheel, as is the case with typical derailleur gear rear wheels.
If you have a puncture whilst riding, do not pull the whole inner tube out of the tyre. Leave the valve sticking through the rim, inflate the inner tube and bring it close to your ear. In most cases you can hear the air coming out. At home you can help yourself with a bucket of water where you can locate the hole by the bubbles. When you have found the hole, look for the corresponding place on the tyre and check it. Often, you will find a foreign body sticking in the tyre, which ought to be removed.
Before fitting the tyre completely on the rim check again whether the inner tube lies properly inside the tyre and press the last stretch of tyre over the edge of the rim using the balls of your thumbs (a). If this does not work, you will have to use the tyre levers (b). Make sure the blunt ends point towards the inner tube and the inner tube does not get damaged. Push the valve a little into the tyre so that the inner tube does not get caught between the rim and the tyre beads.
7.5.6 Mounting Tubeless Tyres 7.5.7 Removal of Tubular Tyres Before mounting a tyre make sure it is free of dirt and lubricant on the inside and around the beads. Do not use tyre levers! To remove the tubular push it a little to the side of the rim at a place opposite the valve until a gap appears and the tyre starts to come off. If the tubular remains stubborn, stick a plastic tyre lever into the gap and lift the tyre off the rim (c).
Tubular tyres can be glued either with liquid tyre glue or with adhesive tape. One advantage of using tape is that it can be done fairly quickly. However, this may not always give a sufficiently firm bond of the tyre on the rim. In the event of a roadside puncture the tape will often cling to the dismounted tyre and your spare tyre may not bond to the rim sufficiently well. A poorly glued tubular tyre can come off the rim.
Remove the burrs from the valve hole of an aluminium rim or countersink it with a big drill, a triangular scraper or a round file. If you have carbon rims, be careful when removing the burrs from the hole edge with a round file. Insert the file only from the outside to the inside and not vice versa, otherwise the fibres of the synthetic matrix might fray out. Seal the area with instant glue subsequently. This pretreatment will lead to an improved valve fitting to the rim.
Starting from the top again on either side of the valve pull the tyre down with your hands, letting them gradually slip down to the yet unmounted section. Keeping the tyre taut by holding your fingers against the rim and your thumbs on the tyre, brace the wheel against your hips. Heave the tyre into the base of the rim (a) with your two thumbs. When the tyre is seated in the base the next job is to centre it, as it will rarely run true right away. Clamp the wheel in the mounting stand again and spin it (b).
After mounting the wheel and tightening the quick-release pull the brake lever (a) and spin the wheel. The rotor should not drag on the brake caliper or on the brake pads. 7.6 Special Features of Carbon Wheels As carbon wheels (c) are made of carbon fibre reinforced plastic they come with particular aerodynamic properties and low weight (d). Before riding again check that you have not let any grease or other lubricants get on the brake surfaces (b) or rotor while mounting the wheel.
What to Bear in Mind When Braking With Carbon Wheels As the braking surfaces are made of carbon, there are some things to keep in mind. Only use brake pads that are suitable for carbon wheels, e.g. from Shimano, Campagnolo or the wheel manufacturer, as they are designed to suit such type of rims. Carbon brake pads usually wear down faster than conventional brake pads. Keep in mind that the braking response of the rims needs getting used to, in particular in wet conditions.
8 Headset The headset (a) connects the fork to the frame, but allows it to move freely. It must turn with virtually no resistance, if the bicycle is to run straight, stabilising itself as it travels. Shocks caused by uneven road surfaces expose the headset to considerable levels of stress. In this way it can become loose and go out of correct adjustment. To check whether the bearing runs smoothly, lift the frame up until the front wheel no longer touches the ground.
8.2 Readjusting a Conventional Headset 8.3 Readjusting an Aheadset® (*Aheadset® is a registered trade mark for threadless systems of DiaCompe) The adjustment tolerance between there being play in the bearings and them being set too tight is very small. The bearings are susceptible to damage. If you want to try it nevertheless, you need two large and flat open-end wrenches (a). Release the threaded top nut and tighten the upper threaded bearing cap a little clockwise. Retighten the top nut.
Bear in mind that by overtightening the bolts, the stem can crush the steerer tube. Check the headset for play as described above (a). Take care not to overtighten the bearings, as this could easily damage them. If you do not succeed in adjusting the bearing, this can have several reasons.
9 Suspension 9.1 Glossary Spring rate or hardness: The force required to compress the spring a given distance. Compression damping: The damping which controls the rate at which the fork compresses (c). A higher rate indicates a higher force requirement per unit of length. With air springs a higher rate means a higher pressure (a). Sag: The distance by which the rear shock or fork compresses (should compress) when the rider assumes his normal riding position while the bicycle is stationary.
9.2 Suspension Forks 9.2.1 Adjusting the Spring Rate Most mountain bikes as well as some hybrid bicycles are equipped with suspension forks (a). This feature gives you better control of your bicycle when riding cross-country or on rough road surfaces. It noticeably reduces the strain on you and your bicycle caused by the mechanical shocks from the terrain. Suspension forks differ in their spring elements and in the way the damping is realised.
In the case of oil/air forks, the spring rate is adjusted by the air pressure in the fork ((c) p. 74). The pressure must be checked at regular intervals with a special shock pump which is normally made available by the fork manufacturer. Please follow the recommendations of the manufacturer. Fork manufacturers include instructions with their deliveries. Read them carefully before changing any settings or doing any maintenance work on your suspension fork.
9.2.2 Adjusting the Damping Control The damping is adjusted by valves inside. These valves are designed to modify the flow rate of the oil and hence the speed with which the fork legs move in and out. In this way it is possible to optimise the bicycle’s reaction to obstacles. Furthermore, any oscillatory movement while pedalling can be reduced. For long uphill rides involving hard pedalling out of the saddle it is advisable to activate the lockout mechanism.
Do not turn any screws on your suspension fork in the vague hope of adjusting it somehow. You could release the fastening mechanism, thus causing an accident. All manufacturers normally mark adjustment devices with a scale or “+” and “-“ signs (b). With other models, changing the travel does not result in a modified spring characteristic. The suspension fork provides an identic comfort of suspension with an however clearly reduced travel.
Do not use a steam jet or aggressive cleaning agents! Ask your bicycle dealer for an appropriate lubricant. If your fork has an elastomer filling, you should regularly clean (a) and lubricate the synthetic springs with a non-corrosive resin-free grease. Some fork manufacturers provide special greases for fork maintenance. Be sure to follow the recommendations of the manufacturers. Forks with air springs have to be checked regularly for air pressure, as the air escapes over time (b).
9.3.2 Adjusting the Spring Rate In order to work optimally, the rear shock has to be adjusted to the weight of the rider and its intended purpose. Be sure to have this adjustment carried out by your bicycle dealer before delivery. Cross-country and marathon racers usually run less sag than downhillers or more comfort loving freeriders. For cross-country and marathon riding the rear shock should yield by about 10-25 % of its total travel (b), for enduro and freeriding by about 20-40 % (c).
If the rubber o-ring/cable tie has moved along the entire travel range or if you can hear the rear shock hit the end of its travel, the spring is too soft. In this case the initial spring tension/pressure must be increased. If the adjustment range is too small, have the springs replaced by your bicycle dealer. The rear shock should not reach the end of its travel (bottom out), which can usully be heard clearly. If the rear shock frequently reaches bottom out, it will become damaged over time.
The adjusting process changes the flow rate of the oil contained within the suspension fork as it passes through valves and chambers internally. Some models provide for separate adjustment of compression and rebound damping. Experience has shown that it is best to begin with the compression stage entirely open and to first adjust the rebound stage.
9.3.4 Maintenance Rear shocks and rear frames are components of sophisticated design that require regular maintenance and care. This has led almost all rear shock manufacturers to establish service centres where you can have your rear shock thoroughly checked and overhauled at regular intervals according to use, e.g. once a year. Be sure to have all bolted connections checked at regular intervals by your bicycle dealer.
9.4 Suspension Seat posts 9.4.2 Check and Maintenance Suspension seat posts (a) enhance the cyclist’s comfort when riding on uneven ground. They can be used on roads and field tracks as well as offroad. They are, however, not suitable for all mountain, enduro, dirt, downhill riding or freeriding. To check the seat post for side-to-side play, take hold of the saddle at both ends and try to move it from side to side (c+d). If you notice any play, have it reduced by your bicycle dealer.
10 Carbon – Important Information Special characteristics of carbon components made of carbon-fibre-reinforced plastics (a), also referred to as carbon or CRP, need to be taken into account. Carbon is an extremely strong material which combines high resistance with low weight. After overstress, however, carbon parts, unlike metal parts, do not necessarily show durable or visible deformation even though some of its fibres may be damaged.
Do not clamp a carbon frame or seat post in the holding jaws of a workstand! The parts may sustain damage. Mount a sturdy (aluminium) seat post instead and use it to clamp the frame ((d) p. 84), or chose a work stand that holds the frame at three points inside the frame triangle (a) or that clamps the fork and bottom bracket shell. Protect the exposed areas of your carbon frame (e.g.
11 Dirt-, Freeride-, Downhill-Bikes – Special Features Not all mountain bikes that look like a dirt, freeride or downhill bike are actually sports equipment! Mountain bikes of the dirt line (DRT) are not suitable for hard use! In particular the following actions may cause an undue stress for the material and result in a failure: Incorrect jumps on sharp edges, jumps with a landing on the front wheel, too short jumps or tricks that are not completed before the landing Landing on the counter slope or between
11.1 Adjusting the Correct Saddle Height Dirt, freeride, dual slalom and downhill bicycles etc. require different saddle adjustments, according to the specific use. The seating position cannot be compared to that on other bicycles; it is maximum control and movability that counts when riding one of the aforementioned bicycles. A lower saddle is advisable in particular for steep downhill riding by mountain bike. However, prolonged riding with a low saddle may cause knee trouble.
12 Lighting Anyone cycling on public roads is required by law to have a properly working set of lights (a), see chapter “Legal Requirements for Riding on public Roads”. It is important to be familiar with the design of the lighting so that you can repair it yourself in the event of a failure. The dynamo (generator) produces the current required for operating the light bulbs. It has two cables attached to it, one running to the front light and the other to the rear light and back. 12.1 12.
Check the contacts and the sockets in the lamp housings of the front and rear lights (a+b). White or greenish stains are a sign of corrosion. Remove the corrosion layer with a screwdriver, emery cloth or the like until the contact surfaces are shiny again. If your bicycle is fitted with a dynamo lighting, inspect the cables along their entire length and check them for defects. Check all contact points. Pin and socket connectors tend to corrode if exposed to salt and rain.
13 Kids’ Bicycles 13.1 useful Information for parents Children are among the most vulnerable road user groups, not only because of their lack of experience and practice, but also for the simple reason that they are smaller and may therefore have difficulties overseeing things and be easily overlooked. If you want your child to use his/her bicycle on the road, you should be willing to invest time in road safety instruction and help him/her improve his/her riding skills.
13.2 Adjustment Adjusting the bicycle to the bodily proportions of a child is even more important than in the case of an adult. In determining the height of the saddle you will need to find a compromise that allows the child to reach the ground with both feet when sitting on the saddle while at the same time giving them enough space for pedalling (a). Set the saddle to a height where the child’s leg is fully stretched when the heel rests on the pedal at its lowest point.
Get into the habit of doing the checks as described in chapter “Before Every Ride“ together with your child (a). In this way, the child will learn to handle the bicycle properly and you will be able to detect any defects that have developed during use. Encourage your child to tell you, if anything should not be working properly on their bicycle. Rectify the fault immediately or take the bicycle to your bicycle dealer for repair, if you are in any doubt. Children can be vain.
14 Adjusting the Bicycle to the Rider Your body measurements are decisive for the frame size of your bicycle. Make particularly sure there is enough space between your crotch and the top tube so that you do not hurt yourself, if you have to get off your bicycle quickly (a). If you have a very small frame, there may be a danger of your foot colliding with the front wheel. Therefore, make sure your cleats are properly adjusted.
Be sure not to pull out the seat post too far – the mark on the seat post (max., min., stop or the like) should always remain within the seat tube (a) – and to grease the surface of an aluminium or titanium seat post that is inserted into a seat tube made of aluminium, titanium or steel. Do not grease carbon seat posts and/or carbon seat tubes in the clamping area! Use special XLC assembly paste instead (b). tube (d).
Never ride your bicycle with the seat post drawn out beyond the limit, maximum, or stop mark! The seat post might break or cause severe damage to the frame. If your bicycle has a long seat tube continuing beyond the top tube, the seat post should at least reach below the level of the top tube and the tip of the rear stays! In case you nevertheless want to shorten the integrated seat post by yourself, you need special tools! If sitting on the saddle causes you trouble, e.g.
14.2 Adjusting the Height of the Handlebars Make sure the handlebar-stem-combination is approved by the handlebar and/or stem manufacturer. The height of the handlebars determines how much your upper body will be inclined forward. Lowering the handlebars gives you a streamlined position and brings more weight to bear on the front wheel.
Release the side clamping bolt at the joint (a) by two to three turns at the most, i.e. without unscrewing it all the way. If you still cannot move the stem, it is being held in place by a ratchet or integrated locking mechanism. If the stem is fitted with a locking mechanism, release the holding bolt located on the top or bottom side (b) of the stem a little. In the case of a ratchet mechanism you will find the bolt on the side. Adjust the stem according to your needs.
Now you can move the handlebar/stem unit up and down as a whole. Be sure not to pull out the stem too far. The mark on the stem (max., min., max., stop, limit or the like) should always remain within the tube (a).
14.2.4 Adjusting Adjustable Handlebar Systems (A.H.S.) Check whether the clamping area (a) of the A.H.S. is accurately centred in the handlebar clamp of the stem. Adjust the A.H.S. tilt to your personal needs. Make sure the clamping surfaces are always clean and free of grease! Position the bar ends to your personal needs. Tighten the clamping bolts of the bar ends to a tightening torque of 23 Nm.
14.3 Correcting the Fore-to-Aft position and Tilt of the Saddle Note that the bolted connections of the seat post have to be tightened to the prescribed tightening torques. Use a torque wrench and never exceed the maximum tightening torque! You will find the prescribed values in chapter “Recommended Tightening Torques”, directly on the components and/or in the manuals of the component manufacturers.
Make sure the seat of the saddle remains horizontal (a) as you retighten the bolt(s). The bicycle should stand on level ground while you adjust the saddle. Retighten the bolt(s) with a torque wrench according to the instructions of the manufacturer. After fastening the saddle, check whether it resists tilting by bringing your weight to bear on it once with your hands at either end of the saddle (b).
Shimano offers Dual Control levers which match small hands. If you have problems reaching the brake lever, ask your bicycle dealer. What to Bear in Mind with Time Trial Handlebars on Triathlon and Time Trial Bicycles In triathlons and time trials (training and competition), where a particularly aerodynamic seating position is important, so called aero handlebars are used.
Now carefully retighten the bolt(s) with a torque wrench. Make sure the adjacent clamping slots are parallel and the upper and lower slots are even. Try rotating the handlebars once clamped in the stem (a) and tighten the bolt a little more, if necessary. Never exceed the recommended torque. Note that the bolted connections of the stem, the handlebars and add-on parts have to be tightened to the specified torques.
14.4.4 Adjusting the Tilt of Handlebars, Bar Ends and Brake Levers of Trekking, City, BMX, Kids’ and Mountain Bikes Handlebar ends are usually slightly bent. Set the handlebars to a position in which your wrists are relaxed and not turned too much outwards (a). To adjust the angle of the handlebars, release the Allen bolt(s) on the underside or front side of the stem. Turn the handlebars to the desired position. Make sure the handlebars are accurately centred in the stem.
Turn the bar ends to the desired position making sure the angle is the same on both sides. Retighten the bolts to the required torque. Check whether the bar ends are firmly fixed by trying to twist them out of position. Note that the distance you need to stop your bicycle increases, while riding with your hands on bar ends (a) or on a multi position handlebar (b). The brake levers are not always within easy reach.
15 All About Bicycles 15.1 Transporting Baggage There are various ways of carrying baggage on a bicycle. Your choice will primarily depend on the weight and volume of the baggage and on the bicycle you want to use. Using a bicycle rucksack (a) is a convenient way of transporting baggage on a bicycle. You can also use pannier racks or handlebar bags, but some bicycle models do not allow the mounting of these accessories.
Do not overload your bicycle (see chapter “Intended Use”) and observe the maximum load capacity marked on or impressed in your pannier rack. Adjust the suspension fork and the tyre pressure to the additional load. Baggage generally changes the riding characteristics of your bicycle and increases your stopping distance! Therefore, practise riding a loaded bicycle in a place clear of traffic (a+b). 15.1.
Road racing bicycles, fitness and mountain bikes are not suitable for mounting a child carrier with special fittings. For more information on other bicycle types, see chapter “Intended Use”. A critical moment is when you have just placed the child in the carrier because this is when the danger of the bicycle toppling over is greatest. A good way to obviate this danger is to use a twin leg kickstand to keep the bicycle stable in standing.
Before hitching a trailer to your bicycle have a look at chapter “Intended Use” or contact your bicycle dealer. Note down the trailer type you opt for so that they can provide you with the information you need. 15.2.3 Kids’ Tandem Bicycles / Trailer Systems There are different systems on the market that allow a kid’s bicycle to be attached to an adult bicycle to cycle together with your child on public roads.
These trailer systems also affect the braking behaviour of your bicycle. Therefore, before riding with a kids‘ bicycle tandem on public roads, practise riding and brake behaviour without passengers in an area free of traffic. It is also important for you to practise with your child how to behave on an attached bicycle during the cycle. Make sure your child wears a helmet (a) even when riding on a tandem bicycle! Set a good example by wearing a helmet, as well. Only buy tested trailer systems (e.g.
Most clamps are potential sources of damage to large-diameter frame tubes (a) that are not designed to be fixed in such clamps! This can result in irreparable damage to the frame. High-end, very thinwalled aluminium or carbon frames are particularly susceptible to such kind of damage. Due to the material properties of carbon, you may not see a severe damage at first sight. This can result in an unforeseeable severe accident at a later date.
15.4 Taking the Bicycle by plane 15.5 If you want to take your bicycle with you when you go on a trip by plane, pack it in an appropriate bicycle suitcase (a) or in a bicycle cardboard box (b) that you can obtain from your bicycle dealer. Special bicycle bags often do not provide sufficient protection. In purchasing this high quality bicycle you laid the foundation for many years and miles of enjoyable cycling.
Before buying any additional bells, horns or lighting accessories, inform yourself thoroughly whether they are permitted and tested and accordingly approved for use on public roads. Make sure additional battery/accumulator-operated lamps are marked with the wavy line and the letter “K”. Retrofitted accessories, such as mudguards (a), disc or drum brakes, pannier racks etc. can impair the functioning of your bicycle. Ask your bicycle dealer for advice before mounting any kind of accessories to your bicycle.
15.5.6 puncture Kit (a) The most important accessories for a successful bicycle ride are a tyre pump and a small tool kit. The tool kit should include two plastic tyre levers, the most commonly used Allen keys, a spare tube, a tyre repair kit, your mobile phone and a little cash. In this way you will be well prepared in the event of a puncture or some other mishap. 15.5.7 Kickstand (b) Bicycle kickstands are to prevent the bicycle from falling over when parked.
15.5.9 Mudguards (a+b) 15.5.10 Bicycle Locks If you want to fit your bicycle with mudguards, ask your bicycle dealer for advice. There are removable mudguards, also referred to as clip-on mudguards, as well as firmly attached models that provide more protection. Best anti-theft protection is provided by stable cable and D-locks (c+d). With a D-lock you can lock e.g. the bicycle frame to a lamppost, whereas a cable lock means additional protection for the wheels.
15.6 proper Cycling Equipment 15.6.2 proper Cycling Clothing 15.6.1 Cycling Helmets Cycling helmets are a must when riding a bicycle. Your bicycle dealer has a variety of styles and sizes (a). Take your time when buying a helmet and keep on the one you prefer for a while before making your final choice. A good helmet should fit snug without pinching. Cycling pants are a must for those who appreciate sitting comfortably in their saddle. These tight pants have a special padding in the bottom.
5.6.3 Cycling Glasses Apart from a cycling helmet and suitable clothing, cycling glasses are absolutely essential when you set off on your bicycle ((d) p. 116). They do not only protect your eyes from the sun and the wind, but also keep out flies that may impede your vision when they fly into your eyes. Risk of accident! Good cycling glasses (a) should fit tightly to your face not allowing any wind to affect your eyes. Cycling glasses come in a wide range of models, such as e.g.
Make sure pedals and shoe soles are always clear of mud and other impurities and grease the lock-in mechanism with lubricant at regular intervals. Only use clipless pedals allowing you to engage and disengage smoothly (c). A defective pedal or a badly worn cleat can make the shoe disengage from the pedal. Or unclipping the shoe from the pedal is sometimes very difficult or even impossible.
16 General Notes on Care and Inspection Your bicycle dealer will have assembled and adjusted your bicycle ready for use when you come to collect it. Nevertheless, your bicycle needs regular servicing. Have your local bicycle dealer do the scheduled maintenance work. This is the only way to ensure that all components function safely and reliably for many miles. The bicycle will be due for its first maintenance after 100 to 300 kilometres (60 to 180 miles), 5 to 15 hours of initial use or four to six weeks.
16.1 Cleaning and Caring for the Bicycle Dried sweat, dirt and salt from riding during the winter months can harm your bicycle. You should therefore make it a habit of cleaning all its components at regular intervals. Inspect the chain after you have finished cleaning and oil it, if necessary (c) (see chapter “Chain”). Apply a coat of standard hard wax (d) on painted, metal and carbon surfaces (except from brake sufaces). Polish the waxed surfaces after drying to give them a nice shine.
16.2 Sheltering and Storing the Bicycle There is usually minimal waiting time for repairs and servicing at bicycle dealers during the winter months. What is more, many dealers offer annual checks at a special price. Use the off-season to take your bicycle to your dealer for inspection! If you regularly service your bicycle during the year, you will not need to take any special precautions when storing it for a short time, apart from securing it against theft.
17 Service and Maintenance Schedule Component What to do Lighting Check Tyres Check pressure Tyres Check tread and side walls Brakes (rim-) Check lever travel, wear of brake pads, position of pads relative to rim Brakes (rim-) Test brakes in stationary Brakes, (rim-), brake pads Clean Brake cables Visual inspection Brakes (disc-) Replace liquid (Dot-liquids) Suspension fork Check and retighten bolts, if necessary Suspension fork Change oil or grease elastomers Suspension seat post Ser
Component What to do Before every ride At the latest after 5 years Handlebars (aluminium and carbon) Replace Headset Check for play Headset Regrease Metal surfaces Impregnate Hubs Check for play Hubs Regrease Pedals Check for play Pedals (clipless) Clean and grease locking mechanism Seat post / stem Check clamping bolts Front / rear derailleur Clean and grease Quick-release Check seat Bolts and nuts Check and retighten, if necessary Spokes Check tension Valves Check seat Stem
18 Recommended Tightening Torques All bolted connections of the bicycle components have to be tightened carefully and checked regularly to ensure the safe and reliable operation of the bicycle. This is best done with a torque wrench that disengages at the desired tightening torque or a click-type torque wrench. Tighten carefully by approaching the prescribed maximum torque in small steps (0.5 Nm increments) whilst constantly checking the proper fit of the component.
Assembly Stems Saddle clamping V-brakes Clamping of swing arm bearing Damper bolts Drop-outs Bolts, in general (e.g. pannier rack mounting, bottle cage, etc.) including carbon frames Wheel Component M5 bolts M6 bolts Stem for threaded forks M4 bolts M5 bolts M6 bolts Fastening bolt on cantilever boss Fastening brake cable Torque Nm 5.5 - 8 9.3 - 13.5 15 3-4 5.5 - 8 9.5 - 13.5 5-7 6-8 Brake shoes 5-7 5-6 8 7 - 11 2-3 2.7 5.5 9.
19 Warranty and Guarantee 19.1 Warranty Your Rights as purchaser This warranty does not provide coverage for: With your decision to buy a bicycle of the WINORA-STAIGER group, you have become the owner of a high-end quality product. In accordance with the European warranty law, modified as of January 1, 2002, defects of quality are warranted by your bicycle dealer for a period of 2 years. The period runs from the delivery of the bicycle by your bicycle dealer.
Warranty claims are justified: - In the event of manufacturing faults, material defects or faulty information. - In the event the claimed damage or defect has already been existent at the moment of delivery to the customer. - In the event the wear or modification of the product is not due to nature or function (see list of potential wearing parts of the bicycle on the following pages).
02. Rims in connection with rim brakes Due to the coaction of rim brake and rim, not only the brake pad is subject to wear due to its function, but also the rim. For this reason the rim should be checked for wearing at regular intervals. The occurrence of fine cracks or the deformation of the rim edges as a result of an increased air pressure are signs of advanced wearing. Rims with wear indicators will tell you whether the rim is worn down or not. See chapter “Brake System“. 03.
19.3 Guarantee of WINORA-STAIGER GmbH In addition to the warranty WINORA-STAIGER GmbH provide an additional guarantee in terms of quality, durability and sound condition for the frames. In the event of a claim, your direct contact is your bicycle dealer, who will be pleased to answer your inquiries.
20 Service Schedule (to be stamped) 1st Service 2nd Service 3rd Service After 300 kilometres (180 miles) or 15 hours of use or three months after date of purchase After 2000 kilometres (1200 miles) or 100 hours of use or one year after date of purchase After 4000 kilometres (2400 miles) or 200 hours of use or two years after date of purchase Order no.: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Order no.: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Order no.: . . . . . .
4th Service 5th Service 6th Service After 6000 kilometres (3700 miles) or 300 hours of use or three years after date of purchase After 8000 kilometres (4900 miles) or 400 hours of use or four years after date of purchase After 10000 kilometres (6200 miles) or 500 hours of use or five years after date of purchase Order no.: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Order no.: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Order no.: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Handover Report Street Town Phone Delivery date (DD/MM/YYYY) Manufacturer Model Frame no./Frame size Type/Category Confirmation I have thoroughly checked the product listed above. The item that was delivered was complete and without any visible damage. I have received the instructions for use with the care and maintenance information, and I was also instructed verbally. I am fully aware that obligations of the seller with regard to warranty only apply to defects in the product.
Handover Report Street Town Phone Delivery date (DD/MM/YYYY) Manufacturer Model Frame no./Frame size Type/Category Confirmation I have thoroughly checked the product listed above. The item that was delivered was complete and without any visible damage. I have received the instructions for use with the care and maintenance information, and I was also instructed verbally. I am fully aware that obligations of the seller with regard to warranty only apply to defects in the product.
Notes 132
WINORA GROUP | Winora-Staiger GmbH | Max-Planck-Straße 6 | 97526 Sennfeld (Germany) +49 (0) 9721 6501-0 | +49 (0) 9721 6501-45 | info@winora-group.de | www.winora-group.
