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_______________________ TO OUR VALUED CUSTOMER... You are now the owner of a new zig zag sewing machine, the most versatile type of its kind you can possess, Buttonholes, monogramming, overcasting and creative embroidery are done with ease and speed. To aid you in obtaining the greatest performance from your new sewing machine, this book on its care and use has been written for you.
CONTENTS Cover page Introduction/Contents 1.
GLOSSARY OF SEWING MACHINE TERMS ACCESSORY BOX For storage of extra feet, needles, bobbins and accessories. BOBBIN CASE TENSION SPRING Holds thread in bobbin case and balances upper and lower tension threads. BOBBIN TENSION SCREW To adlust the tension of bobbn thread BOBBIN WINDING SPINDLE For winding bobbin with thread. BOBBIN WINDING STOP For automatically stopping bobbin at full capacity CABINET Used to mount sewing machine in furniture; also a storage area to’ machine.
PORTABLE CASE PRESSER BAR PRESSER FOOT PRESSER FOOT LIFTER 9 machine when A receptacle to store a sewn not in use. s Controls the pressure exerted on variou materials being sewn. the When lowered onto material it holds material against the feed dog. bar and For raising the lowering the presser is presser foot. When raised, the tension is released and when lowered, the tension engaged PRESSER FOOT THUMB SCREW ents For fastening presser foot and attachm to the presser bar.
GLOSSARY OF SEWING TERMS APPLIQUE BASTING BLIND HEM Applying a material with a specific design onto another material by using a straight or zigzag stitch. To sew with a temporary stitch that can be removed with ease. This is possible by using the longest straight stitch, setting your top tension on “0” and sewing a line of stitches.
SATIN STITCH A solid tine of zig zag stitching formed by a zigzag stitch sewn very close together. SEAM A line formed when sewing two pieces of material together. SHELL TUCK SHIRRING STRAIGHT STITCH The use of the zigzag or variation of the zigzag stitch to give a shell effect to the edge of material. To gather cloth by drawing two or more threads together. A forward or reverse single line of sewing which may vary from 6 to 8 stitches per inch to “0” stitches.
THIS INSTRUCTION MANUAL IS DESIGNED TO ND GIVE BASIC INFORMATION, TO UNDERSTA SEWING MACHINE, A OF FUNCTIONS THE THREAD, AND NEEDLES. B A For sewing a normal seam, the material must be fed regularly for the formation of each stitch. The feed dog does the conveying, together with the presser bar on which a presser foot has been fastened. Feed Dog The task of the feed dog is to move the cloth on for a certain distance after each stitch.
A Fig. 6 THE TENSION r tension is too weak? What happens now, if the uppe thread should he drawn from At the moment the lower h, its resistance becomes too the bobbin to finish the stitc r tension. Thus the upper uppe strong in relation to the the lower thread is drawn into thread in unwound before up lever no longer meets the material. The thread takeupper tension to enable with enough resistance from the and the hewer thread rial the thread to cross in the mate remains tretched (Fig. 4 C).
USING THE FOOT CONTROL TO CONNECT THE FOOT CONTROL WIRES: * * Connect special plug to block on machine as shown in diagram above. Connect outlet plug to electrical outlet. wiring. When sewing, keep children’s hands away from toot control and outlet. electrical from plug nect After sewing, discon l, the Your sewing machine is equipped with a grounded foot contro outlet plug will have a third round prong which acts as ground. Your electrical outlet must have a matching recepticle.
CONVERTING TO FREEARM SEWING (Fig. 1) a (Fig. 2) 2. To replace the table, simply slide it along the free arm to its original position. (Fig. 1) 1. Remove the table from the machine by pulling the base to the left. (Fig.
WINDING THE BOBBIN 0 0 0 - -- Release clutch by turning clutch knob toward you. 2. Draw thread from spool through bobbin winder tension discs as shown. 3. Pull end of thread through hole in bobbin as shown. 4. Place bobbin onto bobbin winder shaft with end of thread coming from the top of the bobbin. 1 0 0 push bobbin winder latch against Holding bobbin until it clicks. onto end of thread, start machine. When bobbin is slightly filled, snip off end of thread. 5. Start machine.
THREADING OF TOP THREAD a Fig 3 the back of the 1. Place thread on spool pin as shown, with the thread coming from 1—b & c). (Fig spool (Fig. 1—a). Draw thread through the top thread guide Pass thread through top thread guide (Fig. 1-d) tension discs. 2. Holding the spool with the right hand, pull the thread through the the beak beyond passes thread the until up pulled be The spring wire loop should 2. of the hook. Fig. return to 3.
Twin Needle Upper Threading U * * * * exceptions. FoHow threading instruction for single needle with these pins. spool Place thread, matching or contrasting in color, on both te the threads at the separa but l, norma Draw hreads through the thread guides as position. 1 through the right disc. Pass one thread through the left disc and one thread Tension is divided in center by a larger disc. thread guides on the needle Now treat both threads as one until you reach the cIa ii p. guide.
LOWER THREADING Removing the Bobbin Pick the metal plate upward towards you and remove the bobbin with your finger, as shown, or you may use the opposite end of your button hole cutter to extract the bobbin. INSERTING BOBBIN (1) Insert the bobbin into the shuttle with the thread end in direction of the arrow. Bobbin should rotate clockwise. (2) Grasp thread, pass the thread around the front, from right to left and through the slot (a>.
Picking-Up Lower Bobbin Thread Hold end otupper thread with left hand. Turn handwheel slowly towards you until needle moves down and up again. Pull upper thread slowly and lower thread will be brought up in a loop. Pull out both threads to about 15cm (6”) and place them together under presser foot and to the left.
CONTROLS TOP TENSION CONTROL Probably the most important control on your machine is this one that regulates your top thread tension. It consists of discs between which the thread passes. The pressure on these discs is regulated by turning the turning the dial on the front of the control. The higher the number, the tighter the tension. There are many reasons for having to reset your tension. The best tension for one fabric may not be correct for another.
CHECKING TENSIONS is to sew a medium zigzag stitch on The easiest way to check tensions appropriate type of thread and the fabric you will be using. Use the d on the bobbin and upper threa needle. Use different colors of spool. bobbin thread should not show on Sew a line of zigzag stitches. The the top of the fabric. ssary to achieve the stitch balance Adjust the top tension if nece mentioned above. UNBALANCED BALANCED Lower Tension Correct Tension: Pull end of lower thread backwards away from plate.
REVERSE STITCH CONTROL reverse. It is best to begin and end seams with a few stitches taken in seams the of end the fastens tacking Back tackinq. This is called back raveling. preven i’ firmly and When everse stitching is needed, simply press and hold the control down dui ing sewing. The fabric will immediately start feeding backward and seam will be fastened. Reverse Stitch Control NEEDLE GUARD Youi roach pressei hai .
OTHER ADJUSTMENTS OF MACHINE IN SEWING In addition to the obvious controls of your machine there are other small regulators and controls to aid you in using your sewing machine. PRESSER FOOT PRESSURE REGULATOR or Push down outer ring of presser foot pressure regulat of re pressu release will This (See above illustration). pin inner down push re, pressu e increas To presser foot. until suitable pressure is obtained. For ordinary sewing, the inner pin should be all the way down.
Changing The Needle Proper needle straight shaft Always make sure needle is straight. surface and see that To check straightness of needle, lay needle on a flat . needle is straight and parallel as shown in above diagram * II Flat side away from you. highest position. Turn hand wheel toward you to raise needle bar to its far as it will go, as upward needle insert and screw clamp Loosen needle e as shown in making sure flat side of needle is towards back of machin the above diagram.
Fabric, Thread And Needle Chart NEEDLE (Long Scarf) 130/705H 1 European FABRIC STITCH LENGTH SETTING THREAD — 3 crepe, taffeta DELICATE—tulle, chiffon, node, fine lace, organdy, lawn, ercerized6O 70 KNITS—sheer tricot 11 crepe, chiffon, velvet LIGHTWEIGHT---batiste, organdy, voile, taffeta, silk.
Free-Arm Sewing buttonholes or For sewing tubular and hard-to-reach areas, use your machine as a free-arm. Stitching and waistlines; pantlegs sleeves, on finishes edge sleeve; a topstitching neckband; sewing buttons on a cuff or easy as sewing as become clothing children’s on wear of areas other and elbows; kness, patching darning and of sewing examples a common seam when you have the free-arm at you fingertips. illustrations show some with the free-arm.
PATTERN SETTING TWI N NEEDLE —21—
PRESS FEET your Sewing The Various presser feet that come with every kind do to you help to ed design Machine are ly. perfect and easily of sewing THE ALL PURPOSE FOOT wide hole to This foot is flat on the bottom and has a be used for accomodate wide stitches. This foot should all normal sewing. Changing Foot Raise presser foot lifter 0 1 handwheel Set needle in the highest position by turning 2 towards you driver. Remove foot by loosening screw with screw Replace new foot and tighten screw.
Starting to Sew Now that you are familiar with the controls on your machine and with the accessories provided for the machine, you are ready to start to sew. Below are some good habits to follow each time you sitdown to sew: 1. Test the needle-it should be straight, properly set and sharp on the point. It should be the correct size for the fabric and thread being used. Do not be afraid to change your needle frequently.
APPLICATIONS OF THE STRAIGHT STITCH SEAMS The normal stitch length for most fabrics is 3, but the length chosen should depend on the fabric and area of usage. Usually, heavier fabrics require longer stitches, and lighter weight fabrics require shorter stitches. For curved seams and bias cut areas use a shorter stitch length to add strength and elasticity to the seam. Pattern: Length: 2—4 Width: 0 Special stitch selector Pressure: Nor,..
ELASTIC THREAD SHIRRING letting Wind elastic thread onto bobbin, as shown, thread The . fingers your h throug pass the thread ing. should be wound smoothly without stretch the that sure being usual, s place in Place bobbin regular elastic is drawn through the tension. Use run thread on the top of the machine. Do a trial Lai a stitch.
* ENDING SEAM/REMOVAL OF FABRIC Stitch to the edge of the fabric, then press the reverse stitch button and backstitch for a few stitches to reinforce the end of the seam. Turn the hand wheel until the take-up lever is in its highest position so that the stitch is completed and the threads will pull freely. Lift the presser foot and remove the fabric by drawing the threads to the left and back, keeping them under the foot so as not to bend the needle.
SEWING ON BUTTONS Zigzag stitching is a very easy and convenient method of sewing A button without a shank. Place the button so its left hole comes directly under the needle, then gently lower the button sewing foot. Take a stitch in the hole. Raise the needle and move zigzag width dial to the right until the needle comes down exactly over the right hole in the button Note Be sure the needle clears the holes of the button by moving the hand wheel by hand before running the machine fast.
SATIN STITCHING This is useful for decoration such as tapering, manual designed embroidei y, monogramming, and applique. The satin stitch, which is a very close zigzag stitch, is obtained by setting the stitch length as near toO” as possible without stopping the feeding action The setting will vary for different fabrics.
Pattern /A/\ Length: 0 Width.I 5 Spec ai stitch Pressure selector Darn Foot: None FREE HAND MONOGRAMMING to the For giving garments and linens a personaiized touch, first tiansfe; the design soft for especially d recommende is hoop embroidery An fabric. of the right side and slowly fabric move the must you fabrics and toweling. In order to monogram, a under paper the moving by writing like is ing Monogramm rapidly. run the machine like a stationary pen.
GATHERING OVER CORD stitch often Ordinary gathering with a basting small zigzag A breaks while pulling in fullness. or carpet thread crochet as across a cord such for gathering cord stronger much a gives thread, have been fullness into fabrics. Once the gathers pulled out in be can cord the place, in stitched order to eliminate bulk.
MENDING A TEAR OR INSTANT DARNING The multiple stitch zigzag provides a strong and easy repair for torn garments. It gives an almost invisible mend, especially when a fine darning thread is used. To mend a tear, hold the torn edges close together and stitch down the middle. If the tear is guided under the slot in the middle of the presser foot, stitching will be equal on both sides. If necessary, sew again on either side of the first row of stitching making sure the needle catches the stitch in the center.
Pattern: /V’. Length: 1/2 Width: 4-6 Special stitch selector Pressure: Normai Foot: All Purpose Utility stitch upward FLUTTER HEM An unusual way of hemming or finishing edges of tricot or soft knits is by a flutter edge. Hemm ing in this manner is just like overcasting an edge, but the fabric is stretched in back and in front of the needle as you sew. For best results, pull the fabric equally, making sure the needle goes over the edge.
UNDERSTITCHING FACINGS for The multiple stitch zigzag is an excellent choice seam facing in bulk undersitching and eliminating allowances. and After attaching the facing to the garment, trim seam the Press usual. as nce allowa seam the clip le allowances toward the facing and use the multip the h g throug stitchin stitch zigzag close to the seam, ng facing and the seam allowances. Using a matchi and fabric the in to blend will stitch thread, the sful prevent excess bulk.
APPLICATIONS OF THE BLIND HEM STITCH J’J’ BLIND HEMMING The blind hem stitch provides a durable hem finish that is almost invisible on garments, drapes, and y curtains. It is done easily with straight of slightl curved hems. With a little practice it will be a very quick and easy hem application and the hem will never need repairing. Step 1 Procedure: Prepare raw edge of hem in desired manner, such as overcast, 1/4 inch sttched under, pinked, hem tape, or just plain.
SHELL TUCK The blind hem stitch gives a very effective and easy way to make a shell tuck for lingerie, pillowcases, and decorative finishes. This works well on knits or on the bias of soft,woven fabrics, A single folded bias tape may be tucked in this manner, and then applied under a fold for a decorative hem on pillow’ cases or applied with the facings at the neckline or armhole for a decorative finish. Set the upper tension dial to a little bit tighter position than normal.
SHELL TUCK The reverse blind stitch gives a very effective and easy way to make a shell tuck for lingerie, pillowcases, and decorative finishes. This works well on knits or on the bias of soft, woven fabrics. A single folded bias tape may be tucked in this manner, and then applied under a fold for a decorative hem on pillow cases or applied with the facings at the neckline or armhole for a decorative finish. Set the upper tension dial to a little bit tighter position than normal.
Twin Needle Upper Threading H ‘Ri Follow threading instruction for single needle with these exceptions. * Place thread, matching or contrasting in color, on both spool pins. Draw threads through thread guides as normal, but separate the threads at the position I. * Pass one thread through the left disc and one thread through the right disc. Tension is divided in center by a larger disc. *Now treat both threads as one until you reach the thread guides on the needle clamp.
Decorative Tucks Or Designs for decorative Any stitch can be used with the twin needle effects. h 7igzag and blind Most attractive are the multiple stitc stitch or tapered satin The tucks. fancy hem stitch for tive for creative zigzag designs in two colors are effec trims. than a 2 zigzag Caution: Remember to use no more . width for twin needle sewing Pin Tucks matches the Narrow tucks, sewn with thread that fabric.
BUTTONHOLES Various fabrics require various methods of sewing buttonholes. Four different methods are given below, with suggested uses. If you are in doubt as to which method is best for your fabric, test the methods in question and choose the best according to the finished appearance. PREPARATION For the best results, a good quality merceriz ed cotton thread should be used. Polyester threads often result in puckered or heavy The finer your unattractive buttonholes.
BUILT-IN BUTTONHOLER g This buttonhole eliminates the need for pivotin and light on often most used is It fabric. the medium woven fabrics. 1. Set the buttonhole control dial at the Lower the buttonhole picture. needle into the mark at the top end of the Lower the presser foot. A buttonhole. be made for the bartack, will s few stitche than the stitching will turn to j sew the left side in forward. Stop when the stitching reaches the bot tom end of marked buttonhole.
TURN-AROUND BUTTONHOLES It is possible to make small and dainty but tonholes if you desire or repair damaged but tonholes. This entails a slight shifting of the cloth but with some practice, good buttonholes can be achieved. 1. Mark the length of the buttonhole on the cloth as shown in figure. 2. Set the needle position to the left and your stitch length dial near “1/4” or the density your desire. 3. Choose the desired width of your buttonhole.
CORDED BUTTONHOLES hole. Cording gives a reinforced raised button fabric, woven bulky, on use for nt It is excelle gets or knits in which the stitching often a knits, On lt. difficu cutting buried and makes fabric corded buttonhole will help keep the from stretching out shape. or but Choose a heavy cotton crochet thread d as Procee g. cordin the tonhole twist to use for und turnaro the or hole button for either built-in presser the under cord the Having hole.
STRETCH BUTTONHOLES Step 1 This buttonhole is used on knit fabrics when it is desirable to omit interfacing or cording. This buttonhole will stretch and return to shape unlike an ordinary zigzag buttonhole. pattern of the stitch makes the The buttonholes nearly invisible when using mat ching thread. It is excellent to use on jerseys, double knits, and sweater fabrics. 1. Mark the leng th of the buttonhole on the cloth as shown in. 2. Select the overlock stitch N’ 3.
APPLICATIONS OF THE STRAIGHT TRIPLE STRETCH STITCH Seams This stitch may be used on knits and woven fabrics, in areas of stress as a reinforcement stitch. It is excellent for curved seams such as armholes and crotch seams. For active wear such as ski pants and girdle fabrics which endure a lot of stress in bending and stretching, this stitch may be used for seaming throughout the garment. Caution: It is difficult to remove this stitch from fabric. Pre-fit garment before using this stitch.
CK //A\V/A\ APPLICATION OF THE PICK-RA Topstitching/Rick-Rack produced with A decorative topstitch can be the structural nd arou h Stitc h. the nc-rack stitc effect, To ial spec a for ent garm lines of the to add an pstitch braid or a decorative inset additional creative flair.
APPLICATION STRETCH OVER LOCK -/V stretch On fabrics that are bulkier or heavier, the In all ck. overlo the than choice overlock is a better ck, overlo dcuble the for would you d as procee ds metho bulk the right. the to with fabric the except feed will prevent from rippling.
APPLICATIONS DOUBLE OVERLOCK STITCH SEAMING DOUBLE OVERLOCK STITCH This stitch gives a finished 1/4 inch seam in one step. For knits, it gives strength and elasticity to the seams and prevents the curling of the fabric that often occurs with 5/8 inch opened It is most applicable to soft, thin knits seams. such as nylon or acetate knits, but may be used Always make test on other fabrics as well. seams with this stitch. For woven fabric, the double overlock stitch gives strength and prevents raveling.
TOPSTITCHING DOUBLE OVERLOCK The double overlock stitch can be used to topstitch nonraveling fabrics such as felt or leather into place for appliques or pockets. Stitch so that the straight part of the stitch is formed over the edge of the leather, and only the zigzag part holds it in place.
APPLICATIONS ULTRA STRETCH SEAMING ULTRA STRETCH On most knits, a 1/4 inch finished seam, such as ultra stretch or the double overlock stitch, is more desirable than a 5/8 inch opened seam al lowance.
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KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. Needle plate Feed dogs Presser foot screw Seam guide lines Thread guide Needle clamp screw Face cover thread guide Top thread tension control Front thread guide Thread take-up lever Top thread guide 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. 19. 20. 21. 22.
BACK VIEW 25 24 26 \/\ \ 23 31 -.- 22 27 3/ 22, 23. 24. 25. 26. 27. Clutch knob Hand wheel Bobbin winder Thread spool pins Presser regulator Face cover plate 28. 29. 30. 31. 32.
The all purpose foot This foot is flat on the bottom and has a wide a wide hole to accommodate wide stitches. This foot should be used for all normal sewing. Zigzag foot Ion machine) The button sewing foot Button sewing This foot has a piece of plastic inserted on the bottom to hold buttons securely. foot The buttonhole foot Buttonhole This foot has a frame which holds the fabric taut enough to produce a good buttonhole. The markings on the side allow exact buttonhole length to be made.
buttonhole Foot This foot has a frame which holds the fabric taut enough Buttonhole foot produce a good buttonhole. The markings on the side Iow exact buttonhole length to be made. Bar tacking: Set pattern selection dial to and sew stitches. 5-6 Sew left side from Left side: Change pattern to line. end reaches it until back front to Remember the point where arrow shows so that it is not necessary to mark end lines for all buttonholes. Bar tacking: Change pattern to stitches.
Button Sewing Foot Button sewing foot THE BUTTON SEWING FOOT This foot has a piece of plastic inserted on the bot torn to hold buttons securely. Set machine as shown. Position a button and material under foot. When needle comes to left side of stitch, lower foot. Raise needle and adjust zigzag width so that needle comes to right hole of button. Run machine at medium speed and sew 5-6 zigzag stitches. Abb.
Cloth Guide Use cloth guide when sewing a long seam of regular distance from edge of material. Set guide in hole on arm, at right of needle plate, and adjust distance. Run machine with edge of fabric touching guide. Position cloth guide at an angle to sew a curved seam. Cloth guide — JL Sew reverse stitches for reinforcement at end of seam. Draw fabric to left when sewing is finished. Cut threads with thread cutter behind presser bar.
Zipper Sewing Foot Zipper Foot Set machine as shown. By using special zipper foot with sliding adjuster, zipper sewing can be easily done without turning fabric. Loosen screw a into position b and set (oot so that needle comes Tighten screw. Sew right side of zipper guiding fabric carefully so that right side teeth of zipper are parallel with left edge of foot. Re-set foot so that needle comes into position Sew left side of zipper in the same way.
The Quilting Guide Parallel straight lines are easy to sew with the quilting guide. To attach the guide, loosen thumb screw and slip the U-shaped holder of the guide between presser foot and thumb screw. Tighten the thumb screw securely. Adjust the curved bar to the desired distance from the needle. Sew the first line of stitching as desired, then, for the succeeding rows let the guide follow along the previous stitch line. A straight stitch, zigzag, or any other stitch may be used.
MAt NTENANCE Your new macnine requires regular cleaning and oiling for satisfactory performance. A machine which is used for a few hours a day needs to be cleaned and oiled once a month. Unplug machine before cleaning or oiling. A. Disassemb’ing Shuttle (for cleaning) Turn hand wheel toward you to raise needle to highest position. Remove bobbin cover plateLift up bobbin cover plate and slips it out / 1 1. Detach needle plate using large screw driver and take out bobbin. 2.
C. Oiling Apply a few drops of oil around face E of hook and to center hole D after oiling, wipe with a piece of cloth. D. Assembling Shuttle Reverse procedure used for disassembling shuttle. E. Changing Light Bulb Open face cover Unplug machine. Unscrew bulb counterclock plate. wise to remove it. Install new bulb. Plug in machine.
TAKE OUT TANGLED THREAD IN BOBBIN CASE 1 Remove bobbin cover plate A Insert the cleaning brush end bobbin B and lift it up. 2. Cut tangled upper thread Buttonhole Cutter. C into with 3 Take out bobbin from bobbin case D and cut lower thread with Buttonhole Cutter. 4 Take otf pieces of waste threads on bobbin case.
TROUBLE CHART Probable Cause Trouble Machine does not sew Bobbin winder Making noise Running slowly Correct Operation Not plugged in properly. Power supply switch is not on. Thread is stuck in the hook groove. Spindle is pushed to the right. See Page 7-9-12-59 Lack of oil. Lint or thread stuck in rotary hook. Lint stuck in feed dog. Machine kept in avery cold or very See Page 12-59 hot place. Leave machine in a normally warm room for a few hours before use.
Improper upper threading. Not using a ball point needle for elastic and thin fabric. Improper tension. Sewing foot not suitable for the work. See Page 9-10-15 Stitches not locked Upper thread tension too loose. Improper tension of lower thread. Improper needle for thread. See Page 10 Wrinkled fabrics Upper or lower thread tension too tight. Improper threading of upper or lower thread Needle too thick for fabric. Stitch length too long for fabric.
