.—‘ I ,, Ii 4 OPERA TING AND MAINTENANCE MANUAL O WNER ‘S MODEL t1UMER 870
You are now the owner of a new zigzag sewing machine, the most versatile type of its kind you can possess. Buttonholes, monogramming, overcasting and creative embroidery are done with ease and speed. To aid you in obtaining the greatest performance from your new machine this book on its care and use has been written for you. Read the instructions carefully as a thorough understanding of your machine will reward you with many hours of trouble-free, creative sewing.
INDEX Features and Parts Page. Page.
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3 FEATURES AND PARTS (Front View) 1. Top thread guides 13. Drop feed knob 2. Pressure release (Darner) 14. Zigzag width stops 3. Thread take up lever 15. Zigzag width control lever 4. Pace plate 16. Stitch length control and reverse 5. Lower thread guide lever 6. Sew light(inside face plate) 17. Stop motion knob 7. Presser foot clamp screw 18. Hand wheel 8. Presser foot 19. Bobbin winder 9. Cover plate 20. Top cover plate 10. Needle plate 21. Bobbin Winder tension 11.
4 (Rear View) Pig. 2 23. Spool pins 24. Thread cutter 27. Head hinge mounting holes 25. Presser bar lever 26.
a 5 NEEDLE-THREAD-FABRIC-STITCHING GUIDE Pabric Needle No. Machine Stitches Per Inch Cotton Thread Mercerized Thread Silk or Nylon Extremely heavy tarpaulin, sacking. canvas, duck, etc. 4 6 to 8 10 to 30 Heavy Duty Heavy upholstery fabric, ticking, denim, leatherette 3 8 to 10 30 to 40 Heavy Duty Medium heavy drapery fabric, velveteen, suiting, felt, terry, etc. 2 10 to 12 40 to 60 Heavy Duty Medium broadcloth, percale, gingham, linen, wool. shantung, etc.
6 SETTING THE NEEDLE See Fig.3. Raise you by hand. the needle bar A to its highest point, turning hand wheel toward Then loosen the needle clamp screw B and the needle can be inserted into clamp C. Place needle (flat side to back) in the needle clamp and push it upward as for as it will go into the needle clamp hole, tightening the needle clamp screw securely with a screwdriver.
7 WINDING THE BOBBIN Disengage the hand wheel (Fig.5) from the stitching mechanism by turning the clutch toward you or counter-clockwise. Place a spool of thread on one of the spool pins, lead thread through the upper rear thread guide (1) and to the right around the bobbin winder tension discs (2). Make one winding around the discs and run end of thread through a hole in the bobbin edge and place bobbin on spindle (3) fitting the notch in bobbin over small pin on spindle.
8 THREADING THE BOBBIN CASE Refer to Figs. 7, 8 and 9 and practise the following procedure. Hold the bobbin case in your left hand. Let about two inches of thread hang free from the bobbin, and insert bobbin into case so that thread will be rotating counter clockwise. Guide the thread end through the slot on the side of the case and under the tension spring until it enters the small notch on the edge of the spring. PLACING BOBBIN CASE IN SHUTTLE Open cover plate in front of the needle. (See 9 Fig. 1).
9 UPPER THREADING SINGLE NEEDLE 1, Turn hand wheel toward you to raise takeup lever to highest position. 2. Place a spool of thread on one of the spoo l pins. (Fig. II). 3. Lead thread through thread guides (1) and (2) on top cover. 4. Down and around one set of tension discs (3) from right to left. 5. Up into check spring (4). 6. Continue pulling thread upward and at the same time with tip of forefinger of other hand lightly hold spool of thread. This will cause thread to enter notc h (5). 7.
V 10 STRAIGHT STITCHING For straight sewing on fine fabric or very soft materi al, it is advisable to use the straight stitch presser foot and the straigh t stitch needle plate which are included in your accessory box. Both have appropriate needle slots. Changing the foot and plate. To change presser foot (8, Fig.1), loosen thumb screw and remove zigzag foot. Replace with straight stitch foot (Fig.13) and tighten screw securely. To change needle plate (10, Fig.
11 SETTING THE STITCH LENGTH The length of the stitch is regulated by the lever (A) shown in F’ig.15. Near 0 is the shortest and 4 the longest. Adjust stitch length stops by turning knurl knob on end of stitch regulator. A F r*rd I ON —a Fig. 15 HI Fig. 16 SEWING IN REVERSE When you wish to sew in reverse to tie the threads at the beginning or the end of a seam, push down lever (A) as far as it will go. The machine will sew in reverse untill lever (A) is returned to the forward stitching position.
12 ADJUSTING THE TENSION Always adjust the upper thread tension with the pre sser foot down, as the tension automatically released when is it is raised. To increase the tension turn dial (A) (Fig. 1?) to the right, or clockwise. To decrease, turn to the left. The higher the number on the dial, the tighter the tension Set numbers to indicating . pointer (B). Before adjusting lower tens ion, be sure the machine is threaded correctly. When necessary to change the bob it is bin tension, turn small scre w (Fig.
13 ADJUSTING PRESSURE AND WEEDIN G OF’ FABRIC General Sewing Usually, for straight sewing, zigzag stitching, and manual embroidery, the press ure bar cap or darning release (A) (Fig. 22) is at its lowe st position and the feed is at its highest level with the drop feed knob (A, Fig. 16) turned to HI position. A Sewing ryhin or Lightweight Fabrics When lighter pressure is required to sew satisfactorily on thin silk or flimsy material, the pressure bar cap should be about half-way down.
14 REMOVING THE WORK Be sure to stop the machine with the thread take up lever and needle bar at the highest position. Now raise tte presser foot and draw the fabric back and to the left, Pig. 23 and 24, and pass the threads over the thread cutter (A). Pull down sharply, holdeing the threads in both hands, so as not to bend the needle. Leave the ends of thread under the presser foot. 1’ Fig. 23 Fig.
15 ZIGZAG STITCHING Be sure zigzag needle plate and presser foot are in place. 1. Moving lever (A. Fig. 25) gradually down and up will produce zigzag stitches of varying widths. To maintain selected widths of zigzag stitches, emplo y locks(C, Fig.25). 2. Lower lock determines the minimum width stitch width, while upper lock controls the maximum. Locks can be set by turning to the left in slightl y and moved to the desired position and tightened. CREATIVE EMBROIDERY-SATIN STITCH The satin stitch (Fig.
16 FREE RAND EMBROIDE RY PATTERNS With the machine set on a short length, diff erent designs can be the stitch width lever made by swinging (A, Fig. 25) up and down betw een 0 and 5 or with any of widths. Try setting combination the locks at 1 and 5, 2 and 5, etc. Obtain a and then proceed. Aft rhythm of movement er a while you will bec ome quite skillful, varyin the speed of the mac g your designs by hine, stitch length and width and the manipulati lever.
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18 MAKING BUTTONHOL ES Buttonholes of various widths and lengths can be made easily. correct length button To establish the hole required add 1/8 inch to the desired cutt tacks. To obtain the ing space for bar length of the cutting space, the opening throu passes is measured by gh whic h the button adding the width (A) and thickness (B) of the but ton.(Fig.30). The width of the but tonhole sides are gove rned by the thickness a lower numner for of the material and thin material.
19 t stopping the feeding action. 2 ) Set stitch length lever as near 0 as possible withou to suit material being sewn OT Width of (3 ) Position zigzag width lock on the right buttonhole desired. (Number 5 for the widest buttonhole.) lock at twice. 4 ) Set lower lock at number 2 1/2 on lower set upper The size of the lower lock for bar tack. ing the beginning of buttonhole. 5 ) Lower needle carefully into the marks on fabric indicat 1, Pig.
20 SEWING ON BUTTONS Fig 33 Fig. 34 Fig. 35 1. Set blind stitch change lever to “Manual” position. 2. Remove zigzag presser foot and attach button sewing foot. (Fig.33). 3. Turn drop feed knob to E position. 4. Set zigzag width lever at 0. Place the button so its left-hand hole comes directly unde r the needle, then gently lower the presser foot. 5. Move zigzag stitch width lever down until the needle comes down exactly over the right -hand hole in the button. 6.
21 If you wish, you may place a rounded toothpick over the button, between the two holes, and sew button to fabric in regular way. Remove the toothpick and wind thread under the button forming A shank to faster. Apply the above method to sew on buttons with four holes, also hooks snaps and etc. If a four hole button is to be sewn, follow the same procedure above as for the two hole button. Now lift presser foot slightly and move fabric to permit the sewing of the remaining two holes. (Fig.35).
22 QUILTING The quilting attachment incl uded with your machine will enable you to sew horizontal lines on padded fabric without the necessity of marking them in advance. To attach the quilter raise the presser foot lever and loosen presser foot screw. Insert forked portion of quilter holder from behind needle and between presser foot screw and presser foot shank. Push holder as far as it will go and tighten presser foot scre w. (Fig.37).
23 NARROW HEMMER With needle at its highest position replace regular presser foot with narrow hemming foot (Fig.39) tightening it securely in place. Set zigzag width lever at 0 for a straight sewn hem or at number 3 for a zigzag sewn hem. Set stitch length control to suit. For a plain narrow hem make a 1/8 inch double fold for about two inches along the edge of fabric. Hold each end of the two inch fold, slip under hemmer.
24 SEWING WITH BRAID Replace regular presser foot with braiding foot (Fig.41). Thread braid through the small hole at front of foot. Set zigzag width and stitch length of the braid is obtained. Draw design YOll wish to sew on fabric with tailor’s chalk, and place material under foot being sure that the braid from the notch in the foot is at the beginning of the design. Start sewing guiding material and braid with hands. Be sure that upper thread overcasts the braid in the notch of the foot. 7ID Fig.
25 Step 1. Step 3. If hem with folded edge is used, make first fold 3/8’ deep. Turn hem to depth desired and baste 1/4” from upper edge. Press into place. Pold hem back toward right side of garment leaving 1/4” extended. Step 4. Place garment under presser foot and sew blind hem. Step 2. STEP 1 STEP 2 Pig. 42-A STEP Pig. 42-B Pig.
26 CARE AND MAINTENANCE OF YOUR MA CHINE Cleaning and Oiling the Shuttle The stitch forming machanism occasionally becomes clogged with loose thread and lint. This will interfere with the efficient operation of the machine. Cleaning should be done with a small brush, and never with a sharp or pointed tool. To remove the stitch forming mach anism, proceed as follows: 1. Turn hand wheel until the nee dle reaches its highest position. Tilt machine head back on its hinges. 2. Remove bobbin case E (Fig.43) .
27 HOW TO OIL YOUR MACHINE Your machine should be oiled occasio nally to keep it operating smooth lyhow often depends on the amount of sewing you do. Oil the upper part of the machine at points indicated by arrows in Fig. 44, after removing the top cover. To oil moving parts inside the face plate, which only rarely reguire oiling, open face plate and oil at spots indicated in Fig.45 .
28 SOME USEFUL HINTS WHEN USING YOUR SEWING MACHINE To 1. 2. 3. turn sewing fabrics on Stop the machine while Raise the presser foot Lower the presser foot corners the needle is still in the material. and turn the fabric using the needle as a pivot. and resume sewing. To sew elastic and stretch fabrics In sewing elastic type materials it is advisable to sew them with a slight zigzag otherwise the thread will break when the sewn materials are stretch ed.
29 ACCESSORIES 1 Straight Stitch 2 Buttonhole I Foot Foot 3 Hemmer Foot 4 Button Sewing Foot 5 Quilter Guide 6 Bobbins 7 Thumb 8 Cloth 11 Screw Guide 9 Felt Washers A 10 Needles 1 11 Screw-driver 12 Tubed Oil 13 Buttonhole Cutter 14 Needle Plate for Straight stitching 15 Twin Needles Fig.
30 MINOR FAULTS AND THEIR CO RREC TION Breaking of upper thread 1. Incorrect threading. 2. Defective needle or needle inse rted incorrectly. 3. Upper thread tension too tigh t. 4. Needle rubbing against presser foot or other attachments. 5. Needle eye too small for thre ad used. 6. Knot in sewing thread. 7. Hole in the needle plate dam aged or rough. Breaking of_lower thread 1. Incorrect threading of the bobbin case. 2. Lower thread tension too tigh t. 3. Bobbin wound too full. Breaking of needle. 1.
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PARTS t88?79 SJH SURE THE TO OBTAIN THE BEST PERPORMANCE PROM YOUR MACHINE BE CABINET, CARRYING CASE OR OTHER ITEMS USED WITH YOUR MACHINE ARE GENUINE WHITE SEWING MACHINES PRODUCTS