USING THE FOOT CONTROL ( I -I I I’ C F E C TO CONNECT THE FOOT CONTROL WIRES: • Connect special plug to bloc k on machine as shown in diagram above. • Connect outlet plug to elect rical outlet. • When sewing, keep child ren’s hands away from foot control and wiring. • After sewing, disconnect plug from electrical outlet. TO USE THE FOOT PED AL: • Begin sewing by turning the hand whee towa l rd you and apply gradually increasing pressure to foot peda l.
USING THE EXTENSION PLATE Extension P’ate Fitting Fig, 2 TO ATTACH AND REMOVE THE EXTENSION PLATE: By sliding extension plate on tubular bed, as shown in Fig. 2, engage fittings on plate with pin on tubular bed, and pull to the left to remove the extension plate. LEVELING THE MACHINE • Level your sewing machine when you use it on the table or install it into the cabinet.
FLAT BED SEWING • When the extension plate is attached, you have all the advantages of a flat bed machine for sewing flat items, and for sewing large tubular items such as flared pant legs. CHANGING THE PRESSER FOOT • Raise needle bar to highest position and raise presser foot as shown. • The extra lift for heavy fabric makes it easier to place fabric under the presser foot. to TO REMOVE THE PRESSER FOOT: • Press button on back of presser foot shank and foot will drop from shank as shown above.
CHANGING THE NEEDLE Hat side • • Always make sure needle is straight. on a flat surface and see To check straightness of needle, lay needle in above diagram. shown as l paralle that needle is straight and Needle Clamp Screw .— Flat side towards back of machine bar to its highest posi • Turn hand wheel toward you to raise needle tion. as far as it will • Loosen needle clamp screw and insert needle upward machine as of back s toward is go, making sure flat side of needle .
WINDING THE BOBBIN TO DISENGAGE THE HAND WHEEL: • Hold the hand wheel (1) with left hand, turn clutch counterclockwise with right hand to disengage as shown. (2) TO WIND THREAD ONTO BOBBIN: • Lead thread through spring thread guide (4) and through the hole in Your bobbin from the inside out. Place the bobbin onto the bobbin winder shaft (3). • Push the bobbin winder to the right. • Hold loose end of thread firmly and turn hand wheel to make thread tight.
CHANGING THE BOBBIN BIN CASE: TO REMOVE THE BOBBIN FROM BOB Bobbin case cannot be • Raise needle bar to its highest position. removed when needle bar is at low position. with two fingers and in case latch • Open shuttle race cover, pull bobb e. abov n show as case in remove bobb releasing latch. by case in bobb from in bobb ove • Rem Notch Latch r p TO AflACH THE BOBBIN CASE: • Pull thread at least 3 inches from bobbin. • Thread bobbin as shown on page( 7).
THREADING THE BOBBIN CASE Pull thread at least 3 inches from bobbin. Insert bobbin in bobbin case so that thread will unravel clockwise. Fig. 1 Slot Pull thread into slot of bobbin case as shown in Fig. 2. Thread Fig 2 Tension Spring Draw thread under the tension spring and into the fork-shaped opening of the spring as shown in Fig. 3. Pull thread through hole in bobbin case finger as shown in Fig. 4. (Recommended for zigzag sewing only) Fig.
UPPER THREADING 1 7 • Raise needle bar to its highest position. • Raise presser foot. • Lead thread through top plate thread guide (1) and between tension discs (2). • Pull thread down around arm thread guide (3) and up to take-up lever (4). • Lead thread through eyelet on take-up lever from right to left and down through face plate guide (5), hooking thread into guide. • Pull thread down through needle clamp guide (6) and through needle hole from front to rear (7).
TWIN NEEDLE UPPER THREADING I • Follow threading instruction for single needle with these exception. • Place thread, matching or contrasting in color, on both spool pins. • Draw threads through thread guides as normal, but separate the threads at the tension. • Pass on thread through the left disc and one thread through the right disc, • Now treat both threads as one until you reach the needle eyes.
PICKING-UP LOWER BOBBIN THREAD • Raise presser foot. • Holding upper thread turn hand wheel toward you one rotation. When take-up lever is at its highest position, pull thread to pick up loop of lower bobbin thread. Pull both upper and lower thread “to the left of’ presser foot ap proximately 6 inches. This will prevent jamming. REGULATING PRESSURE presser • The amount of pressure that is applied to the fabric by the the foot is adjusted by the pressure cap (1).
ADJUSTING UPPER TENSION • To increase upper tension, turn upper tension regulat or to a hig her number. • To decrease upper tension, turn upper tension regulat or to a lo wer number. • Turning tension regulator from “0” to “9” will increas e tension. Nor mal sewing is performed between “4” and “5” Note: Normal stitches will be performed on the red zone at 4, 5 and 6 for regular cotton threads. Fig. 1. Wh /F/////, Y/I/,//’W, ///, ‘Zz// / /1% // ./, Proper Tension st\\\” Fip.
— sheer tricot — — — thigswts — — — — vinyls, plastics fake furs, velours, Sweater — LEATHERS KNITS HEAVY vinyl, rubber backed drapery fabric overcoatings, canvas, upholstery, awning — —— — s, wools, drapery. gabardine, tweed sailcloth, denim, duck, coating double knit, power net LEATHER KNITS — vinyls, plastic film MEDIUM HEAVY LEATHERS - — - - velvet, suitings, wools.
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FUNCTIONS OF CONTROLS I 2 \ 7 NEEDLE POSITION AND PATTERN SELECTOR DIAL • Raise needle bar to highest position b turning hand wheel toward you. • Select desired pattern and needle position. • Selector dial can be turned either clockwise or counterclockwise. p ZIGZAG WIDTH CONTROL DIAL • For wider zigzag stitch, select a higher number.
APPLICATIONS OF THE STRAIGHT STITCH SEAMS The normal stitch length for most fabrics is 3, but the length chosen should depend on the fabric and area of usage. Usually, heavier fabrics require longer stitches, and lighter weight fabrics require shorter stitches. For curved seams and bias cut areas use a shorter stitch length to add strength and elasticity to the seam. I Pattern:--Length: 2-4 Width: 0 Feed Dog:..
ELASTIC THREAD SHIRRING Wind elastic thread onto bobbin, as shown, let ting the thread pass through your fingers. The thread should be wound smoothly without stret ching. Place bobbin in case as usual, being sure that the elastic is drawn through the tension. Use regular thread on the top of the machine. Do a trial run on the chosen fabric to test length of stitch. Lay a piece of paper under the fabric to keep it from gathering up as you sew.
• ENDING SEAM/REMOVAL OF FABRIC Stitch to the edge of the fabric, then press the reverse stitch button and backstitch for a few stitches to reinforce the end of the seam. Turn the hand wheel until the take-up lever is in its highest position so that the stitch is completed and the threads will pull freely. Lift the presser foot and remove the fabric by drawing the threads to the left and back, keeping them under the foot so as not to bend the needle.
SEWING ON BUTTONS Zigzag stitching is a very easy and convenient method of sewing on button without a shank. Place the button so its left hole comes directly under the needle, then gently lower the button sewing foot. Take a stitch in the hole. Raise the needle and move zigzag width dial to the right until the needle comes down exactly over the right hole in the button. Note: Be sure the needle c/ears the ho/es of the button by moving the hand wheel by hand before running the machine fast.
SATIN STITCHING This is useful for decoration such as tapering, manual designed embroidery, monogramming, and applique. The satin stitch, which is a very close zigzag stitch, is obtained by setting the stitch length as near to “0” as possible without stopping the feeding action. The setting will vary for different fabrics. It may be desirable to loosen the upper tension slightly to cause the threads to lock underneath, in order to make the top surface look especially smooth.
Pattern :/‘V\/\ Length: 0 Width 15 Feed Dog: Pressure: Darn Foot: None Needle. 2, 1 or 3 FREE HAND MONOGRAMMING For giving garments and linens a personalized touch, first transfer the design to the right side of the fabric. An embroidery hoop is recommended especially for soft fabrics and toweling.ln order to monogram, you must move the fabric slowly and run the machine rapidly. Monogramming is like writing by moving the paper under a stationary pen.
GATHERING OVER CORD Ordinary gathering with a basting stitch often breaks while pulling in fullness. A small zigzag across a cord such as crochet thread or carpet thread, gives a much stronger cord for gathering fullness into fabrics. Once the gathers have been stitched in place, the cord can be pulled out in order to eliminate bulk. Pattern: ,A/V\ Length: 2 Width: 3 Feed Dog: A.
r Pattern: f’f\/\ Length: Near 0- y 2 Width: 45 Feed Dog: 4 Pressure: Normal Foot: All Purpose Pattern Selector: 4 MENDING A TEAR OR INSTANT DARNING The multiple stitch zigzag provides a strong and easy repair for torn garments. It gives an almost invisible mend, especially when a fine darning thread is used. To mend a tear, hold the torn edges close together and stitch down the middle. If the tear is guided under the slot in the middle of the presser foot, stitching will be equal on both sides.
Pattern: A/vs Length: % Width: 4-5 Feed Dog: ...bA. Pressure: Normal Foot: All Purpose Needle Position: 2 FLUTTER HEM An unusual way of hemming or finishing edges of tricot or soft knits is by a flutter edge. Hemm ing in this manner is just like overcasting an edge, but the fabric is stretched in back and in front of the needle as you sew. For best results, pull the fabric equally, making sure the needle goes over the edge. When you stop to reposition your hands, keep the needle in the fabric.
UNDERSTITCHING FACINGS choice The multiple stitch zigzag is an excellent facing in bulk for understitching and eliminating seam allowances. trim After attaching the facing to the garment, the Press usual. as nce allowa seam and clip the the use and seam allowances toward the facing g multiple stitch zigzag close to the seam, stitchin nces. allowa seam the and through the facing in Using a matching thread, the stitch will blend is This bulk.
APPLICATIONS OF THE BLIND HEM STITCH BLIND HEMMING The blind hem stitch provides a durable hem finish that is almost invisible on garments, drapes, and curtains. It is done easily with straight or slightly curved hems. With a little practice it will be a very quick and easy hem application and the hem will never need repairing. Procedure: • Prepare raw edge of hem in desired manner, such as overcast,1/4 inch stitched under, pinked, hem tape, or just plain. (Step 1) Step 1 • Fold hem up desired length.
SHELL TUCK The blind hem stitch gives a very effective and easy way to make a shell tuck for lingerie, pillow cases, and decorative finishes. This works well on knits or on the bias of soft, woven fabrics. A single folded bias tape may be tucked in this manner, and then applied under a fold for a decorative hem on pillowcases or applied with the facings at the neckline or armhole for a decorative finish. Set the upper tension dial to a little bit tihter position than normal.
DECORATIVE STITCHES Combining rows of decorative stitch patterns is an easy, inexpensive way to create your own braids and trims for garments and household articles. Blending or contrasting colors of thread may be used to compliment the color of the fabric. Illustrations will give some of the attrac tive stitch combinations.
APPLICATIONS OF THE STRETCH BLIND HEM HEMMING The stretch blind hem stitch gives a stretchy, durable hem finish to knit fabrics. The two tiny zigzag stitches enable the hem to stretch with the fabric. It may also prevent woven fabrics from raveling. Proceed as for the regular blind hem stitch on page (25). Pattern: Length: 1-2 Width: 4-5 Feed Dog: ..AA... Pressure: Normal Foot: All Purpose Pattern Selector: 6 EDGING an The stretch blind hem stitch can be used as By hand.
BUTTONHOLES B U T T 0 N H 0 L E S Various fabrics require various methods of sewing buttonholes. Four different methods are given below, with suggested uses. If you are in doubt as to which method is best for your fabric, test the methods in question and choose the best according to the finished appearance. PREPARATION For the best results, a good quality merceriz ed cotton thread should be used. Polyester threads often result in puckered or heavy unattractive buttonholes.
I LI U U Pattern Selector and Zigzag Width Control Dial Pattern Selector and Zigzag Wdth Control Dial Pattern Selector and Zigzag Width Control Del tern: gth: ith: 4—5 d Dog: AA ssur: Normg t: Buttonhole :ern Selector: fl--j BUILT-IN BUTTONHOLER This buttonhole eliminates the need for pivoting the fabric, It is used most often on light and medium woven fabrics. 1. Set the buttonhole control dial at the (#2k buttonhole picture. Lower the needle into the mark at the top end of the buttonhole.
TURN-AROUND BUTTONHOLES I It is possible to make small and dainty buttonholes if you desire or repair damaged buttonholes. This entails a slight shifting of the cloth but with some practice, good buttonholes can be achieved. 1. Mark the length of the buttonhole on the cloth as shown in figure. 2. Set the needle position to the left and your stitch length dial near “1/4” or the density your desire. 3. Choose the desired width of your botton hole.
CORDED BUTTONHOLES Cording gives a reinforced raised button hole. It is excellent for use on bulky, woven fabric, or knits in which the stitching often gets buried and makes cutting difficult. On knits, a corded buttonhole will help keep the fabric from stretching out of shape. Choose a heavy cotton crochet thread or buttonhole twist to use for the cording. Pro ceed as for either built-in buttonhole lpage 30)or the turnaround buttonhole lpage3l).
I 1. APPLICATIONS OF THE STRAIGHT TRIPLE STRETCH STITCH IEEl SEAMS This stitch may be used on knits and woven fabrics, in areas of stress as a reinforcement stitch. It is ex celnt for curved seams such as armholes and crotch seams. For active wear such as ski pants and girdle fabrics which endure a lot of stress in bending and stretching, this stitch may be used for seaming throughout the garment. CAUTION: Itis difficult to remove this stitch from fabric. Pre-fit garment before using this stitch.
APPUCATION OF THE RICK-RACK TOPSTITCHING/RICK-RACK A decorative topstitch can be produced with the rick-rack stitch. Stitch around the structural lines of the garment for a special effect. Topstitch braid or a decorative inset to add an additional creative flair.
APPLICATIONS SMOCKING STITCH This stitch is very versatile and can be corded or used as a topstitch as other reverse stitch patterns. SEAMING SMOCKING STITCH The smocking stitch can be used to seam fine gauze type fabrics or bulky sweater knits, this results in less bulk for a finished 1/4 inch seam.
APPLICATIONS ULTRA STRETCH -‘/‘- SEAM ING ULTRA STRETCH On most knits, a 1/4 inch finished seam, such as stitch and overcast or the overlock stitch, is more desirable than a 5/8 inch opened seam allowance. These stitches can create a neater, more profes sional finish, eliminate bulky seams, prevent curl ing, permit the garment to “give” under stress, and at the same time they cut down on the amount of work involved in making a garment.
PARTS DESCRIPTION 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. Thread Take-up Lever Pressure Release (Darning) Top Plate Thread Guide Tension Regulator Top Plate Handle Needle Position and Pattern Selector Dial Zigzag Width Control Dial Bobbin Winder Fly Wheel Clutch 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. 19. 20. Fly Wheel Stitch Length Control Dial Reverse Button Drop Feed (under Shuttle Cover) Shuttle Race Cover Feed Dog Needle Plate Thread Guide Thread Guide Face Plate 10 20. 11 19 18 12 13 17 15 14 21. 22. 23. 24.
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TWIN NEEDLE SWING TWIN NEEDLE SEWING EFFECTS To use a twin needle in the machine, remove the single needle, and insert the twin needle into clamp with the flat side to the back. Threading of the machine when using a twin needle is the same as normal with these exceptions: 1. Place thread, matching or contrasting in color, on each spool pin. 2. Hold both threads together as you follow through thread guides as normal, but separate the threads at the tension.
PIN TUCKS Narrow tucks, sewn with thread that matches the fabric, produce subtle decoration on plain fabrics. Using the twin needle, sew straight lines on the fabric guiding the edge of the presser foot along each successive tuck to make parallel rows. Soft fabrics will be pulled to form a soft crease. To achieve a tuck on a fabric, increase the lower tension slightly. Heavier fabrics will produce two lines of straight stitching.
USE OF THE ACCESSORIES CORDING AND ZIPPER FOOT The cording and zipper foot is used to sew in zippers insert cording. and Zipper: Set the needle position at “1” or “3” as needed to sew right side or the left side the of zipper respectively, so that the foot sews very close to the zipper teeth. To insert cording: • Set the needle position at “3” and make the welting by sandwiching the cord into a bias strip of fabric. Stitch close to cord. • Set the needle position at “1”.
• The All Purpose Foot This foot is flat on the bottom and has a wide hole to accommodate wide stitches. This foot should be used for all normal sewing. • The Straight Stitch Foot This foot is flat on the bottom and has only a small hole to accommodate only straight stitching. It may be used on sheer or soft fabrics for more control when the all purpose foot allows the fabric to be pulled with the needle.
ADDITIONAL SPECIAL ACCESSORIES ROLLER FOOT Ideal for use on vinyls, imitation leathers, jerseys, syn thetics, velvets and denim. This foot helps keep both layers of fabric feeding the same. On very slippery fabrics, the roller foot helps prevent skipped stitches. #353701 OVERCAST FOOT Zigzag overcasting may tend to roll the edge of some fabrics causing bulky edge. The overcast foot helps to pro duce a flat edge.
Caution: Before cleaning the machine, be sure to disconnect the power cord from the wall outlet. BOBBIN CASE / LATCH BOBBIN NOTCH UTTLE RACE COVER SHUTT E BODY CLEANING HOOK ASSEMBLY 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. With take-up lever in highest position, and remove bobbin case. Turn clamps outward and remove shuttle race cover. Remove shuttle body. Clean thread and lint from all parts, including shuttle race. Run a drop of oil along rim of shuttle body. Replace shuttle body, then shuttle race cover.
CHANGING LIGHT BULB Open the face plate by pulling towards the left. Turn the light bulb counterclockwise to remove. Replace the bulb by turning clockwise. A majority of service calls could be avoided by following these procedures and by first checking to see that the machine is: 1. Threaded properly top and bottom. 2. That the bobbin is wound evenly. 3. That the needle is in the machine correctly. 4. Proper cleaning and oiling.
MINOR PROBLEMS AND SOLUTIONS 1. SKIPPED STITCHES Skipped stitches have become a problem in recent years, especially with the appearance of knit fabrics and polyester threads on the market. Skipped stitches normally can be traced to four basic causes: A. The Needle (1) The needle is dull or bent. Change it, (2> The needle is placed incorrectly in the needle clamp. It is either backwards or is not up in the needle clamp all the way. (3) The wrong type of needle is being used for the fabric.
THREADED ays start and end with 3. NEEDLE COMES UN ition as you start sewing. Alw pos rect cor in not is r leve A. Take-up t position. your take-up lever in its highes akage if needle hits 4. NEEDLE BREAKS needle, this may cause bre the ds ben ing sew le whi ric A. Pulling on fab the plate. rrectly. B. Needle is inserted inco the type of fabric. for fine too is dle Nee C. s. D. Needle is hitting pin erly fastened. rop imp is t foo E. Presser threaded. F. Machine is improperly 5. A. B. C. D. E. F. G.
INDEX GETTiNG READY TO SEW Using the Foot Control Using the Extnesion Plate Free Arm Features Changing the Presser Foot Changing the Needle Winding the Bobbin Changing the Bobbin Threading the Bobbin Case Upper Threading Twin Needle Upper Threading Adjusting Feed Dog Height Picking Up Lower Bobbin Thread Regulating Pressure Adjusting Upper Tension Fabric/Thread/Needle Chart Functions of Controls STRAIGHT AND ZIGZAG Seams Basting/Topstitching Darning Elastic Thread Shirring Holding the Fabric Turning Corners
