Specifications
LAY-UP
&
RECOMMISSIONING
GENERAL
Many
owners
rely
on
their boatyards
to
prepare
their craft,
including
engines
and
generators,
for
lay-up during
the
off-season or for
long
periods of
inactivity.
Others
prefer
to
accomplish
lay-up preparation
themselves.
The
procedures
which
follow
will
allow
you
to
perform
your
own
lay-up
and
recommissioning,
or
you
may
use
them
as
a
check
list
if
others
do
the
procedures.
These
procedures
should afford
your
engine protection
during
a lay-up
and
also
help
familiarize
you
with
the
maintenance
needs
of
your
engine.
If
you
have
any
questions regarding lay-up
procedures,
call
your
local
servicing
dealer;
he
will
be
more
than
willing
to
provide assistance.
Propeller
Shaft
Coupling
[Propulsion
Engine]
The
transmission
and
propeller half couplings
should
always
be
opened
up
and
the
bolts
removed
when
the
boat
is
hauled
out of
the
water or
moved
from
land
to
water,
and
during
storage in the cradle. The
flexibility
of
the
boat
often
puts
a
severe strain
on
the
propeller shaft
or
coupling or
both,
while
the
boat
is
taken out or put
in
the
water.
In
some
cases,
the
shaft
has
actually
been
bent
by
these
strains.
This
does
not
apply
to
small boats that
are
hauled out of
the
water
when
not
in
use,
unless
they
have
been
dry
for a considerable
period of
time.
Fresh
Water
Cooling
Circuit
[Propulsion
Engine]
A
50-50
solution of antifreeze and distilled water
is
recommended for
use
in
the
coolant system
at
all
times.
This
solution
may
require a higher concentration of
antifreeze,
depending
on
the
area's winter climate.
Check
the
solution
to
make
sure
the
antifreeze protection
is
adequate.
Should
more
antifreeze
be
needed,
drain
an
appropriate
amount
from
the
engine
block
and
add
a
more
concentrated
mixture.
Operate
the
engine
to
ensure
a
complete
circulation
and
mixture
of
the
antifreeze
concentration
throughout
the
cooling
system.
Now
recheck
the
antifreeze
solution's
strength.
Lubrication
System
With
the
engine
warm,
drain
all
the
engine
oil
from
the
oil
sump.
Remove
and
replace
the
oil
filter
and
fill
the
sump
with
new
oiL
Use
the
correct grade of
oil.
Refer
to
the
ENGINE
LUBRICATING
OIL
pages
in
this
manual
for
the
oil changing
procedure.
Run
the
engine
and
check for proper
oil
pressure
and
make
sure
there
are
no
leaks.
A
CAUTION:
Do
not
leave
the
engine's
old
engine
oil
in
the
sump
over
the
lay-up
period.
Lubricating
oil
and
combustion
deposits
combine
to
produce
harmful
chemicals
which
can
reduce
the
life
of
your
engine's
internal
parts.
Fuel
System
[Gasoline]
Top
off
your
fuel
tanks
with
wzleaded gasoline of
89
octane
or
higher.
A
fuel
conditioner
such
as
Sta-Bil
ga'loline
stabilizer
should
be
added.
Change the element
in
your
gasoline/water separator
and
clean
the
metal
bowl.
Re-install
and
make
certain there are
no
leaks.
Clean
up
any
spilled
fuel.
Fuel
System
[Diesel]
Top
off
your
fuel
tanks
with
No.2
diesel
fuel.
Fuel
additives
such
as
BioBor
and
Sta-Bil should
be
added
at
this
time
to
control
algae
and
condition
the
fuel.
Care should
be
taken
that
the
additives
used
are
compatible
with
the
primary
fuel
filter/water separator
used
in
the
system.
Change
the
element
in
your
primary
fuel
filter/water
separator,
if
the
fuel
system
has
one,
and
clean
the
separator sediment
bowl.
Change
the
fuel
filter elements
on
the
engine
and
bleed
the
fuel
system,
as
needed.
Start
the
engine
and
allow
it
to
run
for
5 -
10
minutes
to
make
sure
no
air
is
left
in
the
fuel
system.
Check for
any
leaks that
may
have
been created
in
the
fuel
system
during
this
servicing, correcting
them
as
needed.
Operating
the
engine
for
5 -
10
minutes
will
help
allow
movement
of
the
treated
fuel
through
the
injection
equipment
on
the
engine.
Raw
Water
Cooling
Circuit
Close
the
through-hull seacock.
Remove
the
raw
water
intake
hose
from
the
seacock. Place
the
end
of
this
hose
into
a
five
gallon
bucket of clean
fresh
water.
Before
starting
the
engine,
check
the
zinc
anode
found
in
the
primary
heat exchanger
on
the
engine
and
clean
or replace it
as
required,
and
also
clean
any
zinc
debris
from
inside
the
heat
exchanger
where
the
zinc
anode
is
located.
Clean
the
raw
water
strainer.
Start
the
engine
and
allow
the
raw
water
pump
to
draw
the
fresh
water
through
the
system.
When
the
bucket
is
empty,
stop
the
engine
and
refill
the
bucket
with
an
antifreeze
solution slightly stronger
than
needed
for
winter
freeze
protection
in
your
area.
Start
the
engine
and
allow
all
of
this
mixture
to
be
drawn
through
the
raw
water
system.
Once
the
bucket
is
empty,
stop
the
engine.
This
antifreeze mixture should protect
the
raw
water circuit
from
freezing during
the
winter lay-up,
as
well
as
providing
corrosion protection.
Remove
the
impeller
from
your
raw
water
pump
(some
antifreeze
mixture
will
accompany
it,
so
catch it
in
a
bucket).
Examine
the
impeller.
Acquire
a replacement, if
needed,
and
a cover
gasket.
Do
not
replace
the
impeller
(into
the
pump)
until
recommissioning, but replace
the
cover
and
gasket.
Intake
Manifold
and
Thru-Hull
Exhaust
Place a
clean
cloth,
lightly soaked
in
lubricating oil,
in
the
opening
of
the
intake manifold
to
block
the
opening.
Do
not
shove
the
cloth
out of
sight.
(If it
is
not
visible
at
recommissioning,
and
an
attempt
is
made
to
start
the
engine,
you
may
need
assistance of
the
servicing
dealer.
Make
a
note
to
remove
the
cloth prior
to
start-up.
The
thru-hull
exhaust
POlt
can be blocked
in
the
same
manner.
Engines &
Generators
40