Instruction manual

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Hint: Always inspect an object before engraving. On inexpensive glass there may be a seam running
from top to bottom. Engraving over the seam may not yield the best results. Sometimes you can
rotate the object to get a better area for engraving. Also, if the customer supplied the item to be cut,
note with them any defects, scratches or blemishes. You will not want to be held responsible for any
of these later.
Adding Graphics
Like all engraving, the object looks a lot more interesting with some logo or graphics on it. Like all
engraving, an outline graphic will engrave more cleanly and in a much shorter period of time if it’s
an outline with no fill. This is especially important when cutting glass. Too much engraving or fill
may weaken the glass or crystal as well as make the engraving set up more difficult. Accurate fills are
very critical when using a diamond of only .003 to .005 wide. Run time will be affected especially if
a large overlap is used to insure that the fill is complete and without voids.
Its recommended that you experiment with different cutters and fill patterns to get the results you
expect. When possible, try to avoid graphics with excessive amounts of engraving fill.
Doing Pewter
The cylindrical engraver was not designed specifically for cutting on pewter. Many times the pewter
surface is very soft or has a visible grain to it. Special care must be taken when handling the pewter
and it may be appropriate to tape the surface to protect it from the carriage feet. Shadows on the
pewter may be caused by rub of the feet. The engraving head may be supported in the up position
by inserting and tightening the front pair of head-locking screws that you removed when the unit
was first unpacked. This will lock the head in an up position and also keep it from tilting left to
right. The set-up is tricky and it’s best to experiment on a scrap object first.
Figure 3.2•Arrows point to
the front head-locking screw
lockdown areas.