Central Vacuum System Installation Guide Page 1
Index Tool needed Typical installations Components of system Seven Step Installation Step 1: Choose your system Step 2: Plan number of inlets Step 3: Plan placement of inlets and unit Step 4: Plan the tubing installation Step 5: Install the inlet valves Existing home New construction Supervalve wiring instructions Step 6: Install the tubing Step 7: Install the power unit Central Vacuum Fittings Safety Instructions and Grounding Instructions Page 2 Page 3 Page 4-5 Page 5 Page 6 Page 6 Page 7 Page 8 Page 8-1
Typical Central Vacuum System Installations =Inlet =Unit Seven Step Installation Congratulations on the purchase of your new central vacuum system. It will make cleaning your home easier and improve indoor air quality. The system typically can be installed in virtually any home with no costly alterations and very little mess. This guide will show how to install your central vacuum system in just seven steps. Read this guide and your unit’s operating manual before you begin installation.
Components of a Central Vacuum System. 1) The Unit: There are three main types to chose from; Paper Bag Filtered Systems, Cyclonic Action Systems (with drop down filters, cartridges, or washable filters), or True Cyclonic Separation Systems. The Unit is usually mounted in the garage, basement, utility room, storage room, or mud room to remove dust and allergens from living areas. Note: True Cyclonic units require venting to the outside. Other units may be vented to the outside as well.
Plumbing pipe comes in lengths up to 20FT which offers greater system performance requiring less cutting and gluing. Plumbing pipe works well under ground. Plumbing pipe offers less chance for clogs because of the larger diameter. 3) The Attachment Set: Choose from an Air Turbine Attachment set (shown below), Electrical Attachment set with an Electric Power head, or a Bare Floor Attachment Set. Sets consist of hose, wand(s) and various tools. Installation Step 1: Choose your system.
Installation Step 2: Plan number of inlets. To make sure your central vacuum system reaches every room throughout the house, you must first determine the number of inlets you will need and where to place them. One inlet valve can serve 700-800 square feet (63-72 sq m). Use only interior walls if possible, so you won’t have to deal with insulation typically found in exterior walls. Note: If you are using the Hide-a-Hose System, please refer to the instructions that correspond with Hide-a-Hose.
What about installing inlet valves upstairs? Because there are finished walls above and below the second-floor sole plate, installing inlet valves upstairs can take a little more ingenuity. There are several options. Place an inlet outside a closet wall and then run the tubing through the wall and through the inside of the closet and down (see Fig. 03, Page 11). Another option is to run the tubing up into the attic then across and down to the inlet.
Installation Step 5: Install the inlet valves. Existing home inlet valve installation. Directly beneath the proposed inlet site, use a flat-bladed screwdriver to wedge the molding aside. Then, take a wire coat hanger and snip a long straight piece from it. Insert the wire into the chuck of your drill and then holding the drill vertically beneath the intended inlet site, slowly drill down into the floor alongside the baseboard or where the wall and floor intersect.
Installing an inlet valve. Take a wall mounting bracket, cut or snap off the new construction flange and dispose of it. (In new construction, nail the tab to the stud. See New Construction inlet valve installation.) Use a level to make sure the mounting bracket is level. Then trace the outline of the mounting bracket onto the wall. The top and bottom cuts are critical since the flange will rest on these areas. Take a utility knife and score the lines.
Need more space? If you cannot locate a hollow wall, or the space between your walls isn’t wide enough, there are two alternatives: One is to run the tubing through a concealed area, such as the inside of a closet, then run the tubing downward. (A floor mounted inlet is another alternative. See page 12). To run tubing through a closet, mount the inlet outside the closet and run tubing into the closet and down through the closet floor.
Enlarge the hole in the exterior wall to accommodate the inlet valve assembly (valve face plate and mounting bracket) as described on previous page in “Installing an inlet valve.” Inside the closet, drill a pilot hole through the floor beneath the opening in the wall or in a convenient location nearby to check for obstructions. If there are no obstructions, cut a 2-3/8" hole through the floor. Run low-voltage wire through the hole in floor and through the wall to exterior of closet.
Floor valve installation. To install a floor inlet valve, drill a pilot hole with a wire coat hanger and check the location as previously described. When you are sure that the proposed location will not be blocked by a joist or other obstruction, cut a hole in the carpet slightly larger than your 2-3/8" drill bit. Drill a 2-3/8" hole in the floor. Enlarge the opening to accommodate the low-voltage connections. Assemble a Floor Mount Adapter and attach the low-voltage wire to the inlet valve.
before gluing. When applying glue, work quickly to prevent the glue at the top end of the tubing from drying before it reaches the fitting at the inlet valve. Remember, apply glue only to the outside of the tubing. Hint: When upstairs, remember to aim the elbow downward. Other ways to reach the upstairs in your home are through the interiors of closets or pantries, beneath a staircase, or with floor inlets.
Fig. 07 Glue a length of tubing into a stud-mounting bracket assembly. Cut a length of low-voltage wiring, bring approximately 6" through top wire guide hole in stud bracket assembly and double it back into elbow hole. Tape wire to tubing at assembly elbow and again close to end, and tuck remaining wire into bottom of tubing. Screw Plaster Guard onto face of assembly (Fig. 08). Fig.
NEW CONSTRUCTION 1. Install BUILDING WIRE CONDUCTORS (1) through the approved type electrical CONNECTOR (2) (supplied) until they protrude approximately six inches from connector. Seat connector firmly into the opening atop the WIRING COMPARTMENT (4). Insert and secure LOCKING TAB (3). 2. Splice wires from INLET VALVE RECEPTACLE (7) to the protruding building wire conductors with #31 TWIST-ON WIRE CONNECTORS (8) (not supplied). NOTE: White wire to white wire & black wire to black wire. 3.
6. Secure Inlet Valve face plate (10) to mounting plate (11) using the two supplied color matched SCREWS (15). FINISHED CONSTRUCTION After pipe, low voltage relay control wire, electrical building wires and opening in wall has been cut: 1. Remove mounting plate NAILING FLANGE (16). Use a hack saw or score with razor knife along dotted line and snap off. 2. Repeat step one (from NEW CONSTRUCTION). 3. Install modified mounting plate with short 90° ELL glued in position into wall opening. 4.
Connect tubing from additional inlet valves to the main trunk line using a Sweep T. (Fig. 09) and use clamps to hold the sections in place. Be sure to install the Sweep T so the sweep is toward the power unit (Fig 10) Fig. 09 Typical Under-Floor Installation Fig. 10 Sweep T Direction String the low-voltage wire along as you assemble the tubing. Join or splice lowvoltage wires with wire connectors at each junction or branch of the tubing. Use Cable ties to secure connections.
Masonry or concrete walls. If you have to run tubing through masonry or concrete walls, rent a hammer drill and/or masonry hole saw. Run the tubing through and patch the hole when installation is complete and system is running properly. Before drilling, check local building codes for special firewall penetration regulations. The code should tell you if steel tubing or firestop couplers are required for firewall penetration. Installation Step 7: Install the power unit.
Figs. 12 Check your installation to make sure it works properly. 1) Check to see if you have a closed system. With no hose or handle attached, and all inlet valves closed, there should be little or no air coming through the exhaust of the power unit when it is turned on. 2) With the system still running, walk through your home. If you hear whistling or hissing, you may have forgotten to glue a connection. Check basement and attic areas, too.
Central Vacuum Fittings 45 Degree Elbow 45 Wye Short 90 Sweep 90 3 Way ELL Sweep (Y Sweep) Pipe Strap Page 20 Sweep T 45 Degree Spigot (Street) Short 90 Degree Spigot (Street) Medium 90 Degree Spigot (Street) Sweep 90 Degree Spigot (Street) Vac Tube to Sch 40 2x2 Adaptor Short Tee Stop Coupler Trim Ring Inlet Trim Plate Pipe Cap 2x1 3/4 Adaptor (Kenmore) Floor Mount Adapter Inlet Valve Extension Firestop Coupler Plaster Guard Nail Guard (available at a hardware store)
IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS When using electrical appliances, basic safety precautions should always be followed, including the following: DANGER: Always unplug power unit from the electrical outlet before servicing and cleaning. WARNING: To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock or injury to persons: 1. Keep cord away from heated surfaces. 2. Do not allow to be used as a toy. Close supervision is necessary when this vacuum is used by or near children. 3.
WARNING Improper connection of the equipment-grounding conductor can result in a risk of electric shock. Check with a qualified electrician or service person if you are in doubt as to whether the outlet is properly grounded. Do not modify the plug provided with the appliance—if it will not fit the outlet, have a proper outlet installed by a qualified electrician. This appliance is for use on a nominal 120-volt circuit and has a ground plug for North American units.
Notes: Page 23
Central Vacuum Stores 11236 47th St North Clearwater, FL 33762 www.centralvacuumstores.
