TRAINING GUIDE SPORT JUNIOR ® REMOTE DOG TRAINING SYSTEM WITH LIGHTED COLLAR
DOG TRAINING GUIDE SPORT JUNIOR ® REMOTE DOG TRAINING SYSTEM WITH LIGHTED COLLAR
TABLE OF CONTENTS Tri-Tronics® Dog Training Guide INTRODUCTION ........................................................................................................................ 4 Sport®Junior TRAINING THE “HERE” COMMAND .............................................................................. 20 Congratulations on your purchase! All Tri-Tronics Remote Trainers are proudly made in the USA. TRAINING THE “HEEL” COMMAND ...........................................................................
INTRODUCTION Congratulations! You made a great choice when you purchased a Sport Junior remote trainer. Your Sport Junior— used with the right training—can help you have a hunting companion you’re proud to hunt over. And if your dog is a family pet, he can be a pleasure to be with in every situation, even off a leash.
sessions a week. If you wait longer than that between sessions your dog will have trouble learning. If your dog seems to be having trouble, back up to an earlier stage in the Lesson you’re working on, or even to an earlier Lesson. Experienced dog trainers regularly back up and repeat or simplify earlier material for a dog. All dogs are individuals and they make progress at different rates.
obedience located at the end of the Sport Junior Training DVD. There are also many fine books, videos, and training classes offering obedience programs. WHAT YOU NEED BEFORE YOU START 1. Your Sport Junior e-collar. 2. A flat buckled collar on your dog in addition to the Sport Junior. 3. A leash and a 20-foot rope or “long line.” For a bird dog you may want a longer “check cord.” 4. Toys your dog likes playing with. 5. Training areas: You need a quiet distraction-free area for first sessions on a command.
DEVELOPING A DOG’S E-COLLAR UNDERSTANDING As your dog proceeds with e-collar work on each command, you should follow a certain sequence in how you apply commands and nicks. In the early part of each session, you should nick each time you give the command. Later in that session, sometimes nick with the command, but other times give a “freebie.” A “freebie” means that you give the command but don’t nick. A dog who needs more control should have fewer freebies and more repetitions where you do nick.
HOW LONG TO USE THE E-COLLAR IN TRAINING Have the e-collar on your dog for at least a month after you see that he is obeying reliably, off a leash, in the situations in which you give him commands. Return to having the e-collar on him if he later becomes unreliable. If you train for competition events such as hunt tests or field trials, you should have the e-collar on him in every training session after you have completed his e-collar introduction.
ON YOUR DOG Remote training collars need to be on tight for consistent contact. Consistent contact is necessary for a reliable stimulation sensation. If the collar is too loose, you’ll get poor results in your e-collar training. Place the e-collar high on your dog’s neck with the collar box underneath his chin and facing forward.
16 does not startle your dog with stimulation that is too high. test again. Keep increasing the level until you see this reaction from your dog. PLEASE NOTE: This test is a one-time test, don’t start each session with it. NOTE: Very few dogs can feel the ½ setting. Most but not all will respond by the time you are on the Sport Junior’s level 2. If your dog is too sensitive even for the ½ level with the continuous button, then use the momentary button on the ½ setting instead.
Lowering the Level If your dog becomes worried or upset, seems confused, or vocalizes during introductory sessions, you might have selected too high an intensity level, so turn it down. The dog who is showing any of those signs may also need more help understanding what you want. So back up a step or two or simplify things for him by breaking the Lesson into smaller steps.
20 AGGRESSION Aggression in dogs has many causes. Social dominance, fearfulness, learned behavior, and physical problems, as well as other factors, can all be involved. In some cases, aggression can be successfully treated with a remote trainer, following the proper procedure. In other cases, however, correcting the aggressive dog with a remote trainer is not appropriate and will not be successful.
WHAT IF…? 1. He never gets any quicker or more attentive, even after several sessions. Solution 1: Call him from a shorter distance. Solution 2: You might need to increase the intensity a level. Also see whether your collar strap is tight enough. 2. He keeps an eye on you and never “faces away from you.” Solution: Call anyway and follow the procedure. Solution 3: Have an assistant lead him away from you and release him to come when you call.
Let’s recap Lesson Two: • Dog should still be on the rope • Find a mild distraction and let your dog be distracted by it • Call your dog • If he does not come immediately, repeat the command and nick. • Pull rope to guide him to you • PRAISE as he comes to you • Use more enticing distractions as your dog advances. 24 WHAT IF…? 1. He doesn’t respond anywhere nearly as well as he did without distractions. Solution 1: Start with easier distractions or be farther from the distraction when you call.
need quite a bit higher intensity level than they do for normal training. Remember to praise your dog for a nice response! 26 TRAINING THE “HEEL” COMMAND LESSON ONE INTRODUCTION TO “HEEL” When your dog heels, he should walk quietly beside you. If you speed up, slow down, or make a turn he should stay with you. You can teach your dog to heel on your left or your right. Some people like to teach the dog that it’s okay to be on either side as long as the dog stays there. The choice is up to you.
for your dog by adding plenty of turns and pace changes and lots of praise. As you practice, you’ll see your dog start to keep an eye on you so he can stay by your side. Praise him for paying attention to you as you are heeling. Practice Lesson One for several sessions in different training areas. 28 WHAT IF…? 1. He leans on you. Solution 1: Use fewer nicks and more freebies. Solution 2: Make more left turns to help him learn to leave space between his body and yours. 2.
Let’s recap Lesson Two: • Dog should still be on the leash • Find a mild distraction and let your dog be distracted by it • Turn away from the distraction • If your dog does not heel with you, command “Heel” and nick. • Use the leash to help him • Praise as he rejoins you at heel 30 Sport Junior Dog Training Guide WHAT IF…? 1. He doesn’t improve with practice and is overwhelmed by the distraction. Solution 1: Start with easier distractions or be farther from the distraction when you call. 2.
“Sit” is used for retrievers, for flushing breeds, and for family pets. (“Hup” is the sit command for a flushing spaniel.) Pointing dogs use “Whoa.” A whistle command for “Sit” (or “Hup”) is useful for a hunting dog and can get his attention in the field better than a voice command. You need your dog to respond to your stationary command at a distance and not run to you, so some of the Lessons on these commands will focus on teaching your dog to respond when he’s remote from you.
Pull upward with the leash to make sure that your dog sits when you nick, instead of moving toward you before sitting.
WHAT IF…? 1. He comes to you before sitting. Solution: Step at him and help with the leash to make sure he sits at a distance from you. 2. He gets up after sitting. Solution: Repeat “Sit” and give a nick the moment he gets up.
WHAT IF…? 1. He follows you and does not sit. Solution: Block him with your body just as you say “Sit” and nick, to help him learn what you want. 2. He gets up after sitting. Solution: Repeat “Sit” and give a nick the moment he gets up.
WHAT IF…? 1. After breaking because of a distraction, your dog moves from his original position before he sits back down in response to the command and nick. Solution: This is not a problem if he does not move very far. Your goal is to see progress over time in learning not to break the Sit in the first place. If he moves a long ways, he needs more practice at Lesson Two. 2.
WHAT IF…? 1. He sits instead of Whoa-ing. Solution 1: Heel him forward and try again. Don’t nick him for sitting. Solution 2: If he’s frequently trying to sit instead of “Whoa” he needs more introductory work on “Whoa” without the e-collar.
WHAT IF…? 1. He comes to you before Whoa-ing. Solution: Step at him and help with a tug of the check cord to make sure he stops when he hears the command. Increase distance as he is successful. 2. He breaks his Whoa. Solution: Repeat “Whoa” and give a nick. Also give a leash tug if needed.
Help your dog to lie down on command as you nick with the e-collar. WHAT IF…? 1. He rolls on his back or tries to play, instead of lying down calmly Solution: Release him and get him back on his feet, and repeat the exercise. 46 2. He crawls forward. Solution: Repeat “Down” and give a nick. Tug backwards with the leash to stop him from moving forward.
LESSON THREE DOWN-STAY PRACTICE The “Down” command is one of your most useful commands. Take advantage of opportunities to have your dog lie down on command and be a part of the family without being underfoot or in the way. The program in this booklet is only an introductory program. There are lots of ways to advance your dog’s training, especially now that he understands the e-collar.
