Wingspan: 100.5" [2553mm] Wing Area: 1487 sq. in. [95.9 sq. dm] Weight: 16 - 25 Lbs. [7258 - 11340g] Wing Loading: 24.8 - 38.7 oz./sq. ft. [75.7 - 118.1 g/sq. dm] Fuselage Length: 67.8 in. [1722mm] DE MA IN A S U WARRANTY.....Top Flite Models guarantees this kit to be free of defects in both material and workmanship at the date of purchase. This warranty does not cover any component parts damaged by use or modification.
TABLE OF CONTENTS PRECAUTIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2 INTRODUCTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3 DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE . . . . . . . . . . . . .3 Engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3 Flaps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3 Hinges & Pull-Pull System . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4 Cockpit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4 Covering . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1. You must build the plane according to the plan and instructions. Do not alter or modify the model, as doing so may result in an unsafe or unflyable model. In a few cases the plan and instructions may differ slightly from the photos. In those instances the plan and written instructions are correct. 2. You must take time to build straight, true and strong. 3. You must use a proper R/C radio that is in first class condition, the correct sized engine and correct components (fuel tank, wheels, etc.
HINGES & PULL-PULL SYSTEM COMPETITION-MINDED MODELERS Due to the variety of hinges available, and the preferences some modelers have for certain types, this kit does not include hinges. Our preference is Robart® #310 Super Hinge Points (24 required, ROBQ2510), but other hinges may be used as long as they are suitable for giant-scale use.
model SR-10. The most recognizable features of the aircraft are the gull wing and the 18 blisters on the engine cowl for the engine valve assemblies. The gull wing at first looks difficult to build, but, it is actually comparatively easy to build using the die-cut trailing edge jigs. The most difficult part of the wing construction is the extensive cap stripping needed to duplicate the fabric covered appearance of the full-size aircraft.
FLIGHT CHARACTERISTICS Our prototype model had no bad habits or other areas to be concerned about. Its ground handling was excellent for a tail dragger and it was easy to takeoff and land from a grass field. It showed little tendency to ground loop, even on a smooth hard surface runway. It has a thick airfoil, and its fuselage cross section is large, so the model has a great deal of drag. This limits the top speed of the model and allows it to slow quickly for landing.
EASY-TOUCH BAR SANDER There are two types of screws used in this kit: Sheet metal screws are designated by a number and a length. main spar even if the wing is upside-down when you are working on it. Similarly, move the former up means move the former toward the top of the fuselage even if the fuselage is upside-down when you are working on it. For example #6 x 3/4" [1.91mm] A flat, durable, easy to handle sanding tool is a necessity for building a well finished model.
DIE-CUT PATTERNS -8-
DIE-CUT PATTERNS -9-
COMMON ABBREVIATIONS Deg Fuse LE Stab LG = = = = = degrees fuselage leading edge stabilizer landing gear Elev " Ply TE mm = = = = = elevator inches plywood trailing edge millimeters TYPES OF WOOD BALSA BASSWOOD GET READY TO BUILD METRIC CONVERSION 1" = 25.4mm (conversion factor) 1/64" 1/32" 1/16" 3/32" 1/8" 5/32" 3/16" 1/4" 3/8" 1/2" 5/8" 3/4" = = = = = = = = = = = = .4mm .8mm 1.6mm 2.4mm 3.2mm 4mm 4.8mm 6.4mm 9.5mm 12.7mm 15.
BUILD THE TAIL SURFACES Build the stabilizer ❏ 1. Place the stab plan over your building board (you may cut it from the fuse plan) and cover it with Great Planes Plan Protector or waxed paper. ❏ 2. Without using any glue, position the die-cut 1/8" balsa stab spar on the die-cut 1/8" balsa stab TE. Note that the stab spar is centered height-wise on the stab TE to accommodate the cap strips and is centered lengthwise to accommodate rib S7 at both tips. Glue the stab spar to the stab TE as described.
angle of the LE. Cut two shaped 15" balsa stab LE’s to match the plan, then glue them centered, as shown in the sketch, to the fronts of the ribs and the LE brace. ❏ 12. Build the right stab tip the same way. ❏ 13. Cut ten 1" long stab hinge blocks from a 1/4" x 7/16" x 24" balsa stick, then glue them to the stab TE where shown on the plan. The hinge blocks should be vertically centered on the TE. both sides of the stab. Glue the cap strips to the top of the ribs.
Build the elevators centerline to be exact) to make certain the elevator core will remain true and on center when it’s time to glue it to the elevator LE. Build the left elevator first. ❏ ❏ 6. Glue two die-cut 3/32" balsa elevator S7A ribs together. Refer to the following photo, then clamp the glued-together ribs to S7 on the end of the stab with a 1/16" spacer in between. Use your bar sander to sand the end of the ribs even with the trailing edge.
❏ ❏ 11. Of the remaining 1/16" x 1/4" x 36" sticks supplied, select four of the softest sticks for the elevator edging. Glue one of the sticks to the edge of the elevator as shown on the plan. This is easily done if you begin at the tip (at ribs S7A), use thin CA to glue just a couple of inches at a time and keep the edging centered as you proceed toward the root.
Build the Fin ❏ 1. Place the fin plan over your building board (you may cut it from the fuse plan) and cover it with Great Planes Plan Protector or waxed paper. How to accurately mark the centerlines of the control surfaces for hinging. NOTE: In the following two photos, disregard the sheeting on the right side of the fin and the fact that the fin is no longer on the building board. Your fin should still be pinned to your building board at this stage. ❏ 2.
❏ 9. Remove the fin from your building board. Turn it make the rudder core. (It’s kind of like a puzzle; can over and cut off the jig tabs. ❏ 10. Make the three fin hinge blocks from a 1/4" x 7/16" balsa stick and glue them to the fin TE where shown on the plan. ❏ 11. Sheet the right side of the fin with an additional 1/16" x 3" x 24" balsa sheet the same way you sheeted the left side. you figure it out?) Sand both sides of the rudder core flat and even. ❏ 2.
BUILD THE WING Preliminary assembly ❏ ❏ 3. Cut along the partially die-cut line of one diecut 1/8" balsa outer TE spars and remove the jig. Glue that outer TE spar to the front of another outer TE spar that has the jig still attached. ❏ ❏ 1. When removing ribs from die-cut sheets, save the 1-1/8" round plug from both rib 10’s. Build the left wing panel first so yours matches the photos. ❏ 9. Insert a 1/16" balsa spacer between the rudder tip and fin rib V6. Hold the rudder tip to the fin with a T-pin.
adjustments to the slots in the ribs as necessary so the joiner box top can slide all the way through. Hint: The joiner box top passes through the ribs at an angle. A thin sanding tool such as a Perma-Grit (F-102) makes sanding the angle in the slots easy. ❏ ❏ 10. Test fit the joiner box bottom through the slot cut straight through. Therefore, you must bevel the notches in ribs 4 thru 15 to allow the spars to pass at the required angle.
❏ ❏ 8. Use a metal file or sandpaper to remove any burrs you find on both ends of the aluminum wing joiner tube. Test fit the aluminum joiner tube into the cardboard tube you just prepared to make sure it fits. If necessary, remove glue bumps from the end of the cardboard tube so the aluminum joiner slides through without resistance. ❏ ❏ 2. Position the assembly over the wing plan covered with Great Planes Plan Protector.
front of the outer LE near the end and carefully bend LE stick, make the saw cuts, wet the end and glue it ❏ ❏ 12. Glue the die-cut 3/32" balsa LE brace to it into position. When you can achieve the bend, trim to ribs 1 thru 5 and the LE brace. ribs 1, 2 and 3. Glue rib 1 to the inner TE spar only, while using the dihedral gauge to hold rib 1 at the correct angle over the plan. the outer LE to the correct length, then glue it to the front of the ribs. ❏ ❏ 18.
from a 3/32" x 3" x 36" balsa sheet. Test fit the sheeting to the wing and trim as required for the correct fit. The sheet ends in the middle of rib 13. If necessary, wet the top of the sheeting with water or window cleaner to facilitate bending. Place a shim from leftover balsa, under the wing tip so you don’t misalign it as you are pressing the sheeting down. Then, glue the tip sheeting to the wing. plywood strip to a leftover 1/16" balsa strip.
❏ ❏ 28. Cut the cap strips for the top of all the ribs from five more 3/32" x 1/4" x 36" balsa sticks and glue them into position. The cap strips are most easily and accurately cut with a sharp, single-edged razor blade. Start with the longest cap strips first. If you cut one too short, it may still be used for the next rib down the line. Note that the cap strips on ribs 9 and 15 are offset for the aileron and the cap strip on rib 7 is offset for the flap. ❏ ❏ 33.
❏ ❏ 4. Test fit the die-cut 3/32" balsa aileron core to the wing and trim as necessary for a good fit between the aileron tip ribs. Mark the rib locations on both sides of the aileron core where shown on the plan. ❏ ❏ 11. Use a bar sander and 80-grit sandpaper to gradually taper the 3/32" cap strips on ribs 7, 8 and 9 to 1/16" at the ends (to blend them to the 1/16" cap strips on the aileron). ❏ ❏ 12. Use two 1/16" x 1/4" x 36" balsa sticks for the aileron edging.
❏ ❏ 8. Make the flap hinge blocks for the top and Build the flap bottom of the flap from the remainder of the 1/4" x 1/2" balsa stick used for the aileron hinge blocks and glue them into position. Note that there are only two hinge blocks on the bottom of the flap and they lie on the 1/4" side. The hinge blocks on the top of the flap lie on the 1/2" side. The flap is built much the same as the aileron— attached to the wing for accurate alignment and a perfect fit. ❏ ❏ 1.
❏ ❏ 12. As you did for the cap strips over ribs 7, 8 You can use a 3/16" drill bit, but a 3/16" O.D. brass tube sharpened at the end cuts much cleaner holes. and 9, taper the 3/32" cap strips on the top of the flap down to 1/16" at the TE of the flap. Use a 1/16" x 1/4" x 36" balsa stick for the flap edging and glue it to the TE of the flap. Sand the edging even with cap strips and the edging on the center TE. Sand all surfaces so the flap blends to the wing. ❏ ❏ 15.
Mount the wing servos ❏ ❏ 4. Place the die-cut 1/16" plywood flap hatch Refer to this photo to hook up the flap and aileron. Let’s start with the flap... punchmarks in the hatch cover and into the rails. Enlarge the holes in the hatch cover only with a 3/32" drill bit, then countersink the holes for the flathead screws the same way you did for the bottom of the servo plate. Mount the hatch cover with #2 x 3/8" flat-head screws. horn block that is in alignment with your flap servo arm.
BUILD THE FUSELAGE The bottom half of the fuselage is framed upsidedown over the plan. This ensures that you have a straight, true structure from which to build. After the bottom half is constructed, it is removed from the plan, then the tops of the formers and remaining stringers are added to it. But, before you can begin constructing the bottom half of the fuse, you must build the formers. The formers are constructed over the plan just the same as the wing and tail surfaces.
Notes for building former 6 Build the bottom of the fuse A. For formers 6, 7 and 8, there are die-cut 1/8" plywood corner braces for only one side (the front) of the former. ❏ 1. Accurately tape the fuse plans together along B. Add the die-cut 1/8" balsa former sides F6S and bottom F6B to the assembly while it is pinned to your building board. the dotted lines. Place the top view over your building board and cover it with Great Planes Plan Protector.
bracing between formers 3, 4 and 5. Use a builder’s square to hold each former vertical as you glue the bracing into position. ❏ 6. Place a straightedge along both sides of formers 9 through 5 where the bottom longerons will be fitted. Observe any high spots that will prevent the longerons from making a straight line from former 9 to 5. Bring the formers into alignment by sanding down any high spots or by adding shims as needed. Add the tops of the formers ❏ 1. Glue the tops of the formers into position.
Build the front of the fuse ❏ 4. Use four 1/4" x 1/2" x 24" balsa sticks for the top longerons on both sides of the fuselage and glue them into position. Note the splice at former 6. Note: When observing the fuselage from the rear, you may note a concave bend in the top longerons at former 6. Do not be alarmed as this is the intended design and will be worked out when more parts are added to the fuselage later on. Add the stab saddles Refer to this photo (and the fuse plan) for the following four steps.
❏ 7. Mark a line on the inside of both forward fuse sides 1/4" from the front edge. Mark a line on the inside of the top deck that aligns with the lines you marked on the forward fuse sides (the parts must be fitted together to see where to mark the lines on the top deck). ❏ 8. Cut three firewall reinforcement sticks from ❏ 4. Removing additional cross bracing as you proceed, use epoxy to glue the laser-cut 1/8" plywood vertical former bracing to both sides of formers 3, 4 and 5.
pen to transfer the engine mount centerlines on the plan to the firewall. For future reference, this is where the centerline of your engine should meet the firewall so the crank shaft will be centered in the front of the cowl. Mount the landing gear ❏ 4. After the epoxy from the previous step has fully cured, temporarily mount the landing gear to the rails with six 6-32 x 5/8" socket head cap screws and washers. FINAL CONSTRUCTION Mount the engine ❏ 1.
washer) should be 7-7/16". Most glow engines will require an “extension box” made from 1/4" Plywood (not included). For ignition engines and large glow engines some modelers prefer to mount the box (if required) to a vibration isolation mount such as the Great Planes Vibration Isolation Plate (GPMG2000, not included). Skip the following two steps if you are not building an extension box.
❏ 3. Stick a T-pin into the center fuse stringer above sides of former 9. Note: It is important that the fin be accurately aligned with the fuse centerline. former 3. Tie a small loop in one end of a 50" piece of string and slip it over the T-pin. ❏ 8. Test fit the fin to the fuse and the top of the stab. ❏ 11. Glue the fin to the stab and fuse with 30-minute epoxy. Before the epoxy hardens, confirm the vertical and lateral fin alignment as described previously.
Mount the wing ❏ 1. As you did for the wing, (shown on page 18 in steps 6, 7 & 8), build the joiner box top and bottom for the fuse from two 1/8" x 1-11/16" x 10-9/16" ply sheets and two 1/4" x 3/8" x 36" basswood sticks. ❏ 2. Trim the ends of the joiner box bottom and top so plywood joiner box webs. Once you are sure all the parts fit well, glue the assembly into position with 30minute epoxy. Be certain the cardboard tube is centered in the fuse.
tube. Adjust the wing saddle bases so they are contacting the fuselage root ribs, then glue only the saddle bases to the fuselage. ❏ 12. Align the bottom of the fuse root rib on both wings with the bottom of the wing saddle bases at the rear (pivoting the wings about the joiner tube). Clamp both wing panels to the saddle bases near the aft wing bolt block. ❏ 16. With both wing panels still bolted to the fuse, ❏ ❏ 19.
❏ 6. Join both elevators to the stab. Make both elevator pushrods as shown on the plan from two 4-40 solder clevises, two .095" x 36" threaded one-end pushrods and two 4-40 threaded clevises. Silver solder should be used on the solder clevis. After soldering, remove residual soldering flux, then coat the clevis and the rod with a film of oil to prevent corrosion.
❏ 14. Cut eight 3/8" long bushings from the leftover ❏ 11. Insert a 5/32" wheel collar into the nylon guide tubes you used to guide the pull-pull cable for ❏ 9. Install your rudder control linkage. We used a Sullivan No. 520 Pull-Pull Cable Kit (not included) and connected one end of the cable to the rudder, but did not connect the other end to the servo at this time. This way, the cables can be removed for finishing and covering, then reinstalled and connected after the model is completed.
❏ 17. If you intend to install the Top Flite Full Cockpit interior (not included with this kit), glue leftover 1/4" balsa supports to the servo rails to raise the back seat above the servos (as shown in the instructions included with the cockpit kit). If you haven’t done so already, remove the temporary cross bracing between formers 3 and 4. Test fit the cockpit kit referring to the instructions included with the kit. Sheet the bottom of the fuselage ❏ 4.
much experience in this area, you may use your own method for constructing and attaching opening doors. As in other detailed areas of construction with this model, neatness and minimal glue will yield the best results. The photos in this section show the left door. If you’re only building one door, make the right. ❏ 11. Sand the sheeting you’ve completed thus far Let’s start with the rear window. smooth and even.
❏ ❏ 3. From inside the fuselage, use the bottom of ❏ ❏ 6. Build the door frame over the plan using a 3/16" the 1/4" ply fuse sides as a guide to mark the outline of the bottom of the door on the 1/8" balsa fuse sides with a ballpoint pen. Cut the opening in the fuse for the door. Be certain to cut at least an 1/8" away from formers 3 & 4 and from the bottom of the door outline you marked earlier to allow for accurate trimming. x 3/16" x 36" balsa stick and a 1/4" x 1/2" x 24" balsa stick.
❏ 20. Return to step one and build the other window shown in the sketch. Without using glue, fit the other half of the hinges in the door, then test fit the door to the fuse. If necessary, sand the fuse or door sheeting so the fuse and door blend together (it is most likely that you will have to sand the bottom of the door to match the fuse were it begins to curve slightly toward the bottom). frame and door.
of the cowl to the front of the cowl. These will be used later for aligning the cowl blisters. Trim the forward cowl along the line you marked around the base. ❏ ❏ 4. Shape the sub LE’s to match the downward curving angle of the ribs. ❏ ❏ 7. Glue leftover 1/8" balsa to the LE and leftover 1/8" x 1/4" basswood to the TE of the gear. Blend the LE and TE to the sheeting.
“tabs” on the cowl ring sections are where the cowl mounting screws will be located, so position the tabs where you will be able to access the mounting screws, taking into consideration the positioning of the engine, exhaust, and whatever other systems you plan to install inside the cowl. If necessary, trim the extension box to accommodate the cowl ring sections (as we have done to our prototype seen in the photo). Position the tabs over the 1/4" firewall if possible.
the two blisters on the bottom of the cowl straddle the centerline of the fuse. ❏ 20. Thoroughly sand the outside of the cowl so ❏ 18. Cut the air exit slot around the bottom of the filler will adhere. Use filler such as automotive Bondo® cowl. On our prototype, we made this slot about 5/8" wide and extended it about 1/2-way around the cowl. Refer to your own documentation for the exact sizing and location of the slot on your model. or something similar to blend the aft cowl to the forward cowl.
❏ 26. If you haven’t done so already, hook up your ❏ 29. Test fit the dummy engine inside the cowl and exhaust system. Since there are many different engine configurations available for this model, it is up to you to select a suitable exhaust system. On one of our prototype Stinsons with the O.S. 160 Gemini, we made exhaust tubes from K&S 11/32" brass tubing and connected them to the exhaust headers with high temp (1,100 degree minimum) silver solder. Other suitable exhaust systems for the O.S.
❏ 6. Cut three 1/4" x 5-3/4" wood dowels to the correct length as shown in the photo, then bevel the ends to match the fuse. Glue the dowels to the fuse and cabin top with epoxy. ❏ 7. Use the side and front windshield patterns on the plan to cut the windshields from the 10" x 20" clear plastic sheet. IMPORTANT: The fit of the windshields may vary from model to model depending upon dowel placement and the final shape of the cabin top.
Make the Pushrod Exit Covers ❏ ❏ 4. Fit the pushrod exit cover over the fuse. Drill 1/16" holes in the fuse and 3/32" holes in the cover, then secure the cover to the fuse with #2 x 3/8" screws. ❏ ❏ 5. If you prefer, glue an additional hooded pushrod exit to the pushrod exit cover over the rudder cable guide tube, or leave the guide tube extending from the fuse as shown in the photo. ❏ ❏ 5. Glue the inner wheel pant half to the outer wheel pant half with CA.
❏ 10. The same as you did for the cowl, fill seams ❏ ❏ 5. Add a few drops of thin CA to the hole in the between the wheel pant halves with filler such as automotive Bondo® or similar. fuse strut mount, allow to harden, then secure the strut to the fuse with a #4 x 5/8" screw. You may remount the wheels and pants to the model at this time, or wait until after they are painted. When you mount the wheels on the axles during final assembly, lubricate the wheels on the axles to be certain they roll freely.
x 1-1/4" socket head cap screw. Install a 6-32 blind nut into the top of the wing strut mounting block. Test mount the strut to the wing with the screw. ❏ ❏ 13. Mount the landing gear fairing. There are two ways to do this. The first way is to permanently glue it to the landing gear. Drill holes in the bottom of the fairing for the landing gear screws. The second way is to use eight #2 screws, evenly spaced around the edges, to hold the fairing to the fuse sheeting.
Prepare the Model for Covering With a scale model such as this, there may be several “loose ends” to be completed before or after the model is covered. Use your own expertise and preference as a guide, but some of the following items may be easier to tackle now, before the model is covered. ❏ 1. Determine where to route the servo extension cords and make provisions for internal connectors.
❏ 3. Using a trim iron set on low heat, seal the covering to the model in the order shown in the photo and described below. Note: When 21st Century Fabric is heated, the adhesive softens and the covering shrinks. For this reason, 21st Century Fabric cannot be applied using an iron on high heat. It must be thoroughly bonded to the wood with low heat (wrapping the covering around corners such as trailing edges and the sides of ribs helps), then tightened with high heat.
GET YOUR MODEL READY TO FLY Balance your Model NOTE: This section is VERY important and must NOT be omitted! A model that is not properly balanced will be unstable and possibly unflyable. ❏ 1. Since this model is mostly an “open” structure that is fabric covered, the wing has no structural “hard points” at which to support the model while checking the C.G. Place leftover pieces of balsa or plywood across the ribs on the bottom of the wing where you wish to lift the model for checking the C.G.
PREFLIGHT Identify your Model Whether you fly at an AMA sanctioned R/C club site or somewhere on your own, you should always have your name, address, telephone number and AMA number on or inside your model. It is required at all AMA R/C club flying sites and AMA sanctioned flying events. Fill out the identification sticker included with this kit and place it on or inside your model. Find a Safe Place to Fly The best place to fly your model is an AMA chartered R/C club flying field.
❏ 8. Make sure all hinges are securely glued in place. ENGINE SAFETY PRECAUTIONS ❏ 9. Reinforce holes for wood screws with thin CA Note: Failure to follow these safety precautions where appropriate (servo mounting plates, servo mounting screws, etc,). ❏ 10. Confirm that all controls operate in the correct direction and the throws are set up according to the manual. ❏ 11. Make sure there are silicone retainers on all the clevises and jam nuts on thread-on clevises.
3. I will perform my initial turn after takeoff away from the pit or spectator areas and I will not thereafter fly over pit or spectator areas, unless beyond my control. Flight To aid in ground handling during taxiing and your initial takeoff roll, hold up elevator to keep the tail wheel in contact with the ground. Up elevator should be gradually relaxed as you gain speed to keep the model from lifting into the air before you are ready.
