Manual

FORWARD INNER SKIN
I FORWARD OUTER SKIN
-\AFT
SKIN
NOTE GRAIN DIRECTION
Use this photo and the sketch for the next few steps
This photo shows a few weights on top of the wing,
but in actuality we used enough weights to fully
cover the skins.
You can use magazines for
weights too. T
- pins in the front ensure that the
skins are securely bonded to the top spar.
3. Trim the aft wing skin so it fits the wing.
The
TE should be straight and true and contact the
stopper portion of the jig tabs on ribs W14 and W3.
The
front of the sheet should end in the center of
the top spar. The ends should extend past W2 and
W14 equally.
4. Use your favorite method to glue the aft
wing skin to the wing. We recommend using
aliphatic resin because it gives you plenty of time to
align the skin and position your weights or T
- pins.
Hold the wing skin in position with magazines or
weights made from plastic bags filled with lead shot
or
BBs. If you choose to use T - pins to hold the skin
to the wing,
lightly mark lines on the top of the
wing skin indicating the location of the ribs
underneath.
Do not disturb the wing until the
glue fully cures.
5. Remove the T - pins from the bottom spar.
The weights on the aft sheeting will hold your
wing flat.
6. Trim the forward outer wing skin so it fits
the wing. The
aft edge of the skin should contact
the aft skin (in the center of the spar) and the
front
edge of the skin should extend past the leading
edge of the wing by approximately 1/4". The
root
end of the sheet should accurately align with the
glue joint between W4 and W4
- A and the tip of the
sheet should extend past W14 by about 1/16.
Note: The grain direction of the forward outer skin
runs
parallel to the leading edge of the wing.
7. Wet the top of the forward outer skin with a
50/50 mix of alcohol and water so it will bend
easier. Glue it to the wing using weights or T
- pins
to hold it down.
8. If you haven't already done so, glue two
more 3/32 x 3 x 30" balsa sheets together for the
forward inner skin. From that sheet, cut a piece
that fits between ribs W2 and W4 and glue on a
third piece cut from leftover 3/32" balsa to
fill up the
rest of the space. Note that the grain direction is
parallel to the leading edge between ribs W2 and
W4. Trim the sheet to fit the wing. Glue it in
position.
9. After the glue on all the sheeting is dry,
remove the T
- pins you can reach and lift the wing
off your building board.
- 24 -
10. Clean the glue blobs and wood chips off
your workbench so they won't leave dents in your
beautiful wing sheeting. Turn the wing over and
carefully cut the jig tabs off the ribs.
11. Reinforce all glue joints that don't look
strong. It is particularly important that the joint
between the spar web and both spars are securely
glued.
12. Position the left wing plan on your building
board and cover it with wax paper. Return to step 1
on page 22, and repeat the steps to build the left
wing panel.
FINISH THE OUTER WING PANELS
Start with the right wing panel so your progress
matches the photos.
1. Glue a die - cut 3/32" balsa sub-rib W2A to
rib W2 where shown on the plan. The sub rib
provides additional gluing area when the sheeting
is installled. Use the W2A that does not have a
notch cut in it for the flap spar.
Glue the die - cut 3/32" balsa flap ribs W2A
and W8A and aileron ribs W9A and W14A to the
wing where shown on the plan. Note that W8A and
W9A are perpendicular
to the aileron spar W17.