Before beginning construction of your Bonanza you should make these following corrections: Fuselage Plan The correct site of the rudder/fintip block (BON9S08) is: 5/8" x 7/8' x 6-1/4' Page 57, step 7 - Change F2 to F1A. Page 57,step 9 Change F2 to F1A. Page 58,step 17 Change ".. along the cut lines .." to ".. about l/l6"inside the cut lines." Page 58,step 2 Change ".. Phillips head to . Socket Head Cap Screw. .
WARRANTY. .... TOP Flite Models guarantees this kit to be free of defects in both materials and workmanship at the date of purchase. This warranty does not cover any component parts damaged by use or modification. In no case shall Top Flite's liability exceed the original cost of the purchased kit. Further, Top Flite reserves the right to change or modify this warranty without notice.
TABLE OF CONTENTS INTRODUCTION ................................................ 3 PRECAUTIONS.................................................. 4 DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE......................... Tail configuration ............................................ Engine selection ............................................. Exhaust system .............................................. Retractable landing gear ................................ Flaps ............................................................
PROTECT YOUR MODEL, YOURSELF & OTHERS - FOLLOW THIS IMPORTANT SAFETY PRECAUTION Your Beechcraft Bonanza is not a toy, but a sophisticated working model that functions very much like an actual airplane. Because of its realistic performance, if you do not assemble and operate your Bonanza correctly, you could possibly injure yourself or spectators and damage property.
PRECAUTIONS You must build the plane according to the plans and instructions. Do not alter or modify the model, as doing so may result in an unsafe or unflyable model. In a few cases the plans and instructions may differ slightly from the photos. In those instances you should assume the plans and written instructions are correct. 2. You must take time to build straight, true and strong. 3.
NOTES FOR COMPETITION MINDED MODELERS Operational lighting We designed our model from Beechcraft's own 1969 3-view drawings and from measurements taken from a V35B at a local airport. The model scale is 1 5 . ROTATING BEACON ING \ NAVIGATION LIGH T S STROBE LIGHT (GREEN-RIGHT, RED-LEFT) An operational lighting system (TOPQ7912) has been developed specially for the Top Flite Bonanza and was installed in our prototypes.
For an In Cowl Muffler setup, the following items will be required: O.S .61SF & FX Top Flite Header (TOPQ7920) SuperTigre .61-.90KTop Flite Header (TOPQ7925) SuperTigre .75-.9OG Top Flite Header (TOPQ7926) .61-.75 Bonanza In Cowl Muffler (TOPQ7917) BUILDING SUPPLIES Here's a checklist of supplies you should have on hand while you're building. We recommend Great Planes Pro CA and Epoxy. Glue/Filler 4 oz. Thin CA (GPMR6003) 4 oz. Medium CA+ (GPMR6009) 2 oz.
the bottom view so right thrust is viewed as an offset to the left from the bottom. When you get to each step, read that step completely through to the end before you begin. Frequently there is important information or a note at the end of the step that you need to know before you start. Photos and sketches are placed ahead of the step they refer to. Frequently you can study photos in following steps to get another view of the same parts. INCHES X 25.
GET READY TO BUILD 1. Unroll the plan sheets, then roll them inside out so they lie flat. 2. Remove all the parts from the box. Use a ballpoint pen (not a felt-tip pen) to lightly write the name or size on each piece so you can identify it later. Use the die-cut patterns on pages 8 & 9 to identify and mark the die-cut parts before you remove them from their die-cut sheets. Many of the parts already have numbers stamped on them, but in some cases the number is located alongside the parts.
INCORRECT: SHEETS NOT FLAT AND EVEN LE .... y Grain Stab TE CORRECT SHEETS ARE FLAT AND EVEN .. I ! - Elevator (Ruddervater) BUILD THE STABILIZER AND ELEVATORS .... E. Press the joining edges of the sheets down with your fingers so they are flat and even. Place weights on top of the sheets to hold them flat. F. Squeegee the glue, press the seams flat, and place weights along the other glue joint. Let the glue dry. G. Use the same procedure to make the wing skins when you build the wing. 2.
ST4. Use a small square to align the stab TE spar at rib S2S over the plan. Pin rib S2S over its in front location on the plan with a T-pin about of the TE spar. - ST13. Cut a 1/16 notch in center rib S1S behind the LE brace. Test fit the die-cut 1/16" plywood straight tail LE doubler in the notch. Deepen the notch as necessary so the top of the doubler is even with the top of rib SIS.Glue the doubler to the LE brace and glue rib S1S to the doubler. ST5.
ST15. Sand the top of the leading edges, stab and elevator spars, and the TE brace so they match the contour of the ribs. Do not change the shape of the airfoil by sanding too much. ST16. THIS STEP IS VERY IMPORTANT! Arrange the T-pins so every other rib is held down with one pin near the front and one pin near the rear and make sure all the pins go into the jig tabs at the same angle.
ST26. Trim the elevator torque rod blocks and any protruding hinge blocks so they are even with the bottoms of the ribs. ST33. Sand the stab TE's and the elevator LE's so they are even with the ends of the stab and elevators. Sand the stab TE and elevator LE's so they blend with the tips and skins. ST39. Skip ahead to Make the stab tips on page 20 to make the tip blocks (the straight tail and V-tail tips are shaped the same way). When you're done, return to step ST40. ST27.
ST7. Sand the upward facing edges of the leading edge and the sub spars so they match the contour of the ribs. Do not change the shape of the airfoil by sanding too much. against the stab when the elevator deflects downward. Test fit the elevators to the stab, with the elevator joiner in place, and make adjustments if necessary. ST8. Arrange the T-pins so they all go into the jig tabs at the same angle.
ST19. Reinforce glue joints that don't look strong. ST20. Glue the other rudder and fin skin to the right side of the rudder and fin. Optional: Use the die-cut 1/8" balsa finlstab cradles R l C and R6C to hold the fin and rudder flat on your workbench while you glue the right skins on. ST14. Glue the four die-cut1/8"balsa rudder torque rod blocks betweenR1A and R2 in the rudder. ST15. Cut six 1-718" long hinge blocks from the 1/4" x 3 / 8 x 36" balsa stick.
Pin the rear of the jig tab on S2V to the plan. Use the same procedure to pin the rear of the jig tabs on the rest of the ribs to the plan. BUILD THE STABILIZER AND RUDDERVATORS ST36. Sand the top of the rudder tip so it matches the fin tip (since you raised the rudder slightly). The right half of the stab plan shows the V-tail stab with a dashed line indicating the straight tail stab. The left half of the stab plan shows the straight tail stab with dashed lines indicating the V-tail stab.
V9. Check the fit of the sub spar (S11) in the die-cut notches of the ribs S I V , S2V and S3V. Make any adjustments needed. VIO. Test fit, then glue the sub spar in position. Use a 90" triangle to insure that the sub spar is vertical. V14. Use your favorite method to glue the stab skin to the stab. We recommend using aliphatic resin to glue the skin to the ribs and TE spar, and CA for only the leading edge. Apply the glue.
V22. Remove a small section of rib S2v between the LE brace and the sub spar. Now you should have a slot in rib S2V like the one in the photo below. DO NOT cut the slot shown in rib S1V until instructed to do so later. I V25. Reinforce glue joints that don't look strong. V26. Glue the bottom stab and ruddervator skins to the bottom of the stab and ruddervator. Work over a flat surface and be careful not to add any twist into the stab as you press the skins onto the stab frame.
MAKE THE STAB TIPS Note: When you shape the left stab tip, in addition to the plan, use the finished tip on the right stab as a guide to shape the left stab tip. This way you can make sure both of the stab tips are identical. 1. Securely tape the ruddervator (or elevator if you're building the straight tail) to the stab with masking tape on both sides. Sand the ends of the stab and ruddervator so they are even. 7. Shape the stab LE as shown on the plan. 8. Separate the ruddervator from the stab. 9.
BUILD THE WING 14. Remove the shaded area of balsa shown in e previous two photos after the epoxv, is fullv ured. MAKE THE WING SKINS AFT WING SKIN CUT-OFF Have you purchased your retracts yet? If you have (or as soon as you do), take the neoprene air lines out of the package and hang them from a hook somewhere in your shop letting them dangle under their own weight. This will get all the kinks out and make them easier to work with when it's time to install them. 1.
3. Fit the ribs and spar web to the bottom spar so the ribs accurately align with the plan. Perform steps 7 through 9 only if you are installing fixed landing gear, I 7. Prepare a set of right wing ribs by using 30minute epoxy to glue the die-cut 1/8" plywood fixed landing gear rib doublers W4G, W5G and W6G to the die-cut 3/32" balsa ribs W4, W5 and W6 exactly as shown in the photo. Make sure the doublers are on the side of the ribs as shown in the photo. 11.
6. Temporarily remove rib W2 from the assembly. 7. One at a time, accurately align the jig tabs of all the ribs with the plan and pin them to your building board. In addition to T-pins, place weights on top of the ribs and the aft spars to insure that all the jig tabs are contacting your building board. Inspect all joints and make sure everything aligns with the plan. The spar web must fully contact the bottom spar.
FORWARD INNER SKIN FORWARD OUTER SKIN I SKIN -\AFT NOTE GRAIN DIRECTION 5. Remove the T-pins from the bottom spar. The weights on the aft sheeting will hold your wing flat. 6. Trim the forward outer wing skin so it fits the wing. The aft edge of the skin should contact the aft skin (in the center of the spar) and the front edge of the skin should extend past the leading edge of the wing by approximately 1/4".
Hint: Temporarily place a shim made from 1/16" leftover plywood between the ribs for perfect alignment. Perform steps 7-13 if you are installing retractable landing gear. rail brace 3. Stick a pin through the wing sheeting in a few places along the space between W8A and W9A, along the space between W2A and W2A, and along the space between W14A and W14. These pin points will indicate where to cut the sheeting to separate the ends of the flap and aileron from each other and the wing.
Perform steps 14-16 if you are installing fixed landing gear. J 18. Cut three 3-1/16" long servo hatch cover rails from the 1/4" x 3/8" x 24" basswood stick (the same stick you used for the landing gear rail support if you are building retracts). Glue the rails in the notches of the ribs where shown on the plan. I 12. Drill holes in the rails and mount your landing gear. Use the screws included with your landing gear. Hint: Countersink the holes in the landing gear for #6 x 1/2" flat head screws. 14.
22. Use a bar sander and 80-grit sandpaper to sand the sheeting, spars and LE so they are flush with root rib W2 and tip rib W14. 23. Mark the locations of the aileron hinge slots on the outer wing TE and the aileron LE, so you will know where to cut the hinge slots after the wing and aileron are sheeted. Mark the location of the flap hinge blocks the same way. 24. Return to step 1 on page 24 and finish the left wing panel. BUILD THE CENTER SECTION notches align.
SHEET THE TOP CENTER SECTION 1. Sand the top of the leading edge, spars and ribs so they blend together. You may remove the center section from your building board if necessary, but pin it back down after you're done sanding. Glue the aft skin to the center section. 7. After the glue dries, remove the center section from the plan. Trim, then sand the bottom spar and the top sheeting flush with the end ribs. Do not sand off the tabs on the ends of the aft spar W20.
14. Cut holes and slots in the W l ' s on the ends of the center section to match the holes for the servo cords and retract air lines in the W2's of the outer panels. Cut the holes slightly oversize just in case they don't align perfectly. 5. Temporarily join the center section to the right wing panel with the dihedral braces to make sure everything fits. Make adjustments where needed so the center section fully contacts the right panel. Separate the wing sections and remove the dihedral braces.
8. Use the remainder of the 3/32" x 6" x 30" balsa sheet you used for the forward inner top skin to make a forward inner bottom skin. Test fit, then glue the skin to the wing panel. 16. If you will be adding the optional lighting kit, route the wiring through the holes you drilled in the ribs. The red light cover goes in the left tip, and the green light cover goes in the right tip. If you have purchased the strobe lights in addition to the Top Flite Lighting Kit, route those wires too.
BUILD THE WING TIPS Perform these steps only if you are installing retracts. CUT OUT THE WHEEL WELLS Cut the molded clear plastic right wing tip lens along the cutlines. If you are installing the optional lighting kit, drill holes in the die-cut balsa tip lens rib for the lighting wires to pass through. 4. Read the note below and roughly carve the wing tip block to fit the wing tip. Glue it to the wing tip and sand it to the final shape.
Perform this step only if you are installing wing tip lighting. BUILD THE FLAPS Skip this section if you are not building flaps. 1. Use a fine razor saw to cut only the ends of the flap from the wing along the holes you poked in the top sheeting. I CUT THE TOP SHEETING IN THIS AREA I I REMOVE A 6. Use the templates on the wing plan to make the reflector bracket from leftover 1/16 balsa. Drill a small hole th rough the part of the braces that hold the lenses in your lighting kit so they snap in.
L 5. Cut a hole in the inner wing TE for the flap horn at the location shown on the plan. The hole should be biased toward the top of the wing. 6. Place the flap over the plan and mark the location of the die-cut 1/16" ply flap horn. Fit but do not glue the flap horn into the flap. Note: Each flap has a different location for the flap horn so make sure you use the correct wing plan for the flap you are working on. 9. Cut the flap root and tip end templates from the plan.
BUILD THE AILERONS 14. Use the flap hinge drill guide to drill holes in the flap the same way you did for the wing. 1. If you have built flaps remove them from the right wing panel. Use a razor saw to separate the aileron from the wing by cutting between the LE of the aileron and the TE of the wing. Refer to the plans to find the location of this gap and poke a pin through the sheeting to verify you have found the gap.
6. Return to the first step and mount the flap and aileron servos in the other wing panel. 7. Glue leftover 1/16" balsa sheeting to the inside of the bottom sheeting around the wheel well cutout with the grain direction opposite that of the wing sheeting. This will reinforce the sheeting around the wheel well cutout. 3. Enlarge the holes in the hatch covers only with a 3/32" drill bit. Countersink the holes for the #2 x 3 / 8 flat head screws with a countersink or other pointed tool.
5. Connect the other aileron and flap pushrod the same way. Make final adjustments to the lengths of the pushrods when you set up your radio. This is as far as we can go with the wing until it is fitted to the fuse. But first, we need a fuse, so.. .build the fuse! 3. Drill 1/16" holes through the punch marks in F2D and F2 that are closest to the bottom of the formers. Glue F2D to the front of F2 with the holes aligned. After the glue dries, drill 5/16" holes through the punch marks.
