Manual

2. Locate and carefully remove the 3/32" die-
cut core parts S-1 (2 each) and S-2 (2
each), and the 1/16" cap parts S-3 (4
each). Make sure your stabilator plan is
covered with clear protective material and
position each of the S-1 parts in place -
weight or pin. Glue the S-2 parts in place
to each S-1, directly over the plans.
Remove the two resultant structures from
the plan and, holding them together,
lightly sand their outer edges to match
exactly.
3. In this step you are going to glue each of
the S-1/S-2 structures to a S-3 cap part,
a bottom left and right. Apply a thin
coating of glue to the bottom of each S-
1/S-2 structure, keeping it out of the
slots, and pin or weight in place over the
bottom S-3 cap. Once again, remove the two
resultant structures from your building
board, hold them together and light-sand
their outer edges flush with each other.
Re-position these parts back over the plans
and securely pin or weight in place.
4. Now test-fit each of the four (4) 5/8"
lengths of aluminum tubing in place into
the slots provided in the S-1/S-2 parts
with both of the 1/16" x 1-1/2" M.W. rods
in place. This is a good time to trim
anything that does not fit well. Refer to
drawing. Note that the two M.W. rods are
meant to be parallel with each other when
in place. Using 5-minute epoxy, glue each
tube in place into each slot in each S-1/S-
2/S-3 structure, being careful to keep glue
out of the tubes - allow to cure.
5. Apply a thin coat of glue to the bottoms
of the two remaining S-3 top caps and pin
or weight these in place directly over the
tops of the S-1/S-2 structures, carefully
lining-up the inboard edges. Remove the
two structures from your building board and
remove the two 1/16" dia. x 1-1/2" M.W.
rods and pin or weight directly over the
plans.
6. Cut, fit and glue the 1/4" x 3/8" balsa
trailing edges and tips in place - pin or
weight securely. From the 1/4" balsa stock
provided in your kit, cut, fit and glue the
two required tip corner gussets in place.
Again using the 1/4" balsa stock, cut, fit
and glue the leading edges in place.
7. Using the 3/32" x 1/4" balsa stock provided
in your kit, cut, fit and glue the diagonal
geodetic "ribs" in place, using the plans
as a guide. Take care here to create the
best joints that you can. Using the trim
lines shown on the right stab side, trim
the right stab tip as shown. Remove the
stabilator structures from your building
board. Holding the right stab half over
the left. trim the left stab half tip to
match the right, while still holding the
structures together, sand the rear, inboard
trailing edge "notches" per plan.
8. The stabilator halves should now be
complete and matched. Further, when joined
together with the 1/16" M.W. rods, they
should be flat in relationship with one
another. The last step is to sand these
halves to airfoil shape as shown on the
plan.
Note holes through geodetic ribs and root section
of stabs and a similar hole through bottom of
rudder and through top of TC-1's on fin. These are
"breather" holes for covering purposes. They allow
hot air to escape the structure, allowing MonoKote
to fully shrink.
IX. RUDDER CONSTRUCTION
1. Locate and carefully remove the two
required R-1 die-cut rudder cores from
their sheets. Do the same for the two
required 1/32" RC-1 rudder cap parts.
Start construction by gluing the two R-1
parts together, taking care to match their
outer edges with each other. Pin or weight
the R-1/R-1 structure in place over the
plans.
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