Manual

1. The ASTRO FLIGHT 035 cobalt motor comes
already pre-wired with a Tamiya-type
connector and an RF choke soldered in
place. Start by un-soldering the black
wire from its post connector, leaving the
RF choke joint still in place.
Referring to the diagram above, cut a 4-
1/2" Length of hi-flex wire and use a razor
to remove about 1/4" of the sheathing from
one end. Bend the solder tab straight out
from the post on the motor. Now solder the
wire to the tab with the length of the wire
pointed forward, towards the front of the
motor. Bend the solder tab back down
again. Cut this wire in half, remove the
sheathing from each end and solder the
fuse/holder in place. The remaining end
of this length of wire is now soldered, in
place to the center solder tab on the micro
switch, with the wire in place straight
down, in relationship to the switch.
2. The remaining length of black (-) wire
(should be 8") is now prepared by first
removing 1/4" of the sheathing from each
end. Now solder the SERMOS connector clip
to one end and insert and snap the black
connector in place. The other end of the
wire is now soldered in place (wire
pointing straight down from the switch) to
the far left solder tab of the micro
switch. This completes the negative side
wiring.
3. Now un-solder the remaining red wire on the
motor's solder tab, again leaving the RF
choke connection in place. Cut a 5" length
of red hi-flex wire and remove 1/4" of the
sheathing from each end. Solder one end of
this wire to the motor's solder tab with
the length of the wire pointing forward
toward the front of the motor. Bend the
tab back down. Solder the remaining end of
this wire to the "ON" solder tab of the
arming switch. The remaining length of red
wire (should be 5-1/2") is now prepared by
again removing 1/4" of sheathing from each
end. Solder one end into the SERMOS
connector clip and insert and snap the
connector (in this case red) in place. The
remaining end of the red wire is now
soldered in place to the "OFF" solder tab
of the arming switch. Clean and inspect
each solder joint, making sure they are
each secure. Applying a small amount of
silicon adhesive to each of these joints
further avoids any shorting.
4. The wiring system and switch array should
now be tested. Assuming that your battery
pack has been equipped with SERMOS
connectors, connect the pack to their
appropriate leads. Hold the motor firmly
in your hand (WITHOUT A PROP IN PLACE) and
"blip" the micro switch with the arming
switch in the ON position. If nothing
happens (highly unlikely), your battery
pack is either totally dead (discharged) or
you have a cold solder joint somewhere.
Now is the time to again check all of these
connections to ensure proper operation
every time, on demand.
XIII. COVERING
In every aspect of these instructions thus far,
we've stressed the importance of paying attention
to weight. At this point in the construction of
your PHASOAR, you should have an amazingly light
model. In keeping with this attention to weight,
it is extremely important that you cover your
PHASOAR with MonoKote. MonoKote will provide your
PHASOAR with comparatively little weight gain, an
incredibly brilliant finish and most importantly--
airframe strength!
Realistically, one 6' roll of MonoKote, properly
cut-up and applied would do the job, providing you
would settle for a mono-chromatic color scheme.
However, you may consider a multi-colored scheme
that is at once visible in the air and looks great
in the pit area, too! Now is the time to choose
your favorite MonoKote color combination.
MonoKote is easiest to apply and work with when you
have the appropriate tools at hand to do the job.
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