Owner's Manual
!ipeaker
&
RCA
Connections
RS5.4500D
INTERCONNECTION EXAMPLE 3-Channel Mode: 1x Stereo System (bridged)+1xSubwoofer
RCA
& Speaker wiring:
• Connect the RCA lineouts
of
the headunit with the RCA jacks LINE INPUT
of
the amplifier with appropriate high-value RCA cables.
• Connect the front or rear speakers with the speaker outputs
(Ch1
+/- and CH2 +/- SPEAKER), (CH3 +/- and CH4 +/- SPEAKER)
by using appropriate wires.
• Ensure by any means, that the total impedance load
of
all speakers is not lower than 2 ohms.
Too
low impedance cause high temperature
and will shut down the amplifier operation.
• Always ensure the correct polarity
of
the speakers. The interchange
of
plus and minus cause total loss
of
bass playback and could
damage the speakers
Caution!
Do not connect speaker(-} to the ground or vehicle's chassis.
Bass Remote Control - connection for remote control.
Subwoofer
4-8
Ohm
Speakers
CH5
2-8
Ohm
This contoller regulates the Bass Level from e.g. the driver's seat.
Switch position CH3/4=HPF or
Full
Switch position CH1/2= or
Full
Subwoofer
4-8
Ohm
0
=
+sua-
rnr
1~~1
u
OUTPUT
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250Hz 4tHz 6V
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Connect RCA outputs
~
from head-unit with RCA
in
(LINE INPUT CH1/2,CH3/4 & CH5).
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•
By
using
bigger
speakers
(more
than
20cm)
you
can
set
the
X-OVER
switch to the
FULL
position (Full Range Signal).
•
By
using
smaller
speakers
(8.7cm -
16cm)
you
must
set
the
X-OVER
switch to the
HPF
Position (Highpass
Mode)
to avoid
any
damage
by
lower
frequencies on
the
speakers.
The
cut-
off
frequency
is adjustable with
the
HIGH PASS
controller
and
should be
set
between
10Hz
to
150Hz(CH1/2)
and
10Hz
to 150Hz(CH3/4),
depending
on
the
size
of
the
speakers.
•
The
LOW
PASS Controller is
not
in
use
in this interconnecting example.
LEVEL CONTROLLER
• Turn the
LEVEL
controller
of
the
amplifier
to the
6V
position.
• Turn the
volume
controller
of
the
headunit
to
80
-
90%
of
its full setting,
• Turn the
LEVEL
controller
clockwise until
you
hear
some
distortion.
•
Then
turn
back
the
LEVEL
controller slightly until you
hear
a
cleaner
sound.
BASS BOOST CONTROLLER
•
The
BASS
BOOST
controller
must
be turned
to
O
dB
position in this interconnecting
example
.
Troubleshooting
System does not turn
on
1.
Check all fuses.
2.
Check all connections.
3.
Measure the +12 volt and remote turn on voltages at the amplifier terminals.
If
these are non existent
or
low, take voltage measurements at
fuse holders, distribution blocks, the head unit's +12 volt and remote leads to localize the problem.
Noise problems
1.Check the speaker wiring
2.Speakers are damaged
No
Signal at all Channels
1.
Set Balance and Fader from head unit on Zero-Position
2.
Check wiring (Amplifier.Speakers)
3.
Speakers are damaged
4.
Subsonic Filter is adjusted too high or Lowpass Filter is adjusted too low
Hiss or white noise
1.
Speakers are overload
2.
High levels
of
white noise usually occurs when amplifier level controls are turned up too high - readjust according to the procedures in section
"Setting up systems after installation for best performance"
3.
Another problem that can cause excessive hiss, is a noisy head unit - unplug the amplifier input RCA cables, and
if
the hiss level reduces, the
source unit is
at
fault.
No
Stereo-Sound or Low Output
1.Check speaker wiring
(-and+)
Amplifier Protection-Mode (red LED
is
illuminated)
1.
Speaker cabels are shorted
2.
Inadequate cooling - relocate
or
remount to provide better natural airflow over the fins.
Driving high power levels into low impedances - back off on the volume control, and/or make sure you are not loading the amplifier with less
than the recommended loudspeaker impedance.
3.
Make sure that the battery voltage, as measured
at
the amplifier's +12 volt and ground terminals, is
11
volts
or
more.
Electrical interference
The inside
of
an automobile is a very hostile electrical environment. The multitude
of
electrical systems, such as the ignition system, alternator, fuel
pumps, air conditioners to mention
just
a few, create radiated electrical fields, as well as noise on the +12 volt supply and ground. Rememaber to
isolate the problem - first unplug amplifier input RCAcables,
if
the noise is still present, check the speaker leads, if not, plug the RCA's back, and
investigate the source driving the amplifier, one component at a time.
A ticking or whine that changes with engine RPM:
1.
This problem could be caused by radiation pickup
of
RCA cables too near to a fuel pump
or
a distributor, for instance, - relocate cables.
2.
Check that the head unit ground is connected straight to the vehicle chassis, and does not use factory wiring for ground.
3.
Try to supply the head unit with a clean + 12 volt supply directly from the
battery+,
instead
of
using a supply from the
in
dash wiring/fusebox.
This type
of
noise can be more difiult to pinpoint, but is usually caused by some kind
of
instability, causing oscillations in the system.
A constant whine:
1.
Check all connections, especially
for
good grounds.
2.
Make sure that no speaker leads are shorting to exposed metal on the vehicle chassis.
3.
RCA cables are notorious
for
their problematic nature, so check that these are good,
in
particular the shield connections.
Caution!
In
this amplifier are integrated protection circuits. Short Circuit Protection engaged: The ampifier will turn off and try to come back on
immediately. The amplifier will cycle like this indefinitely, with "blips" of sound each time. If this
is
the case, check your speakers and wiring for
low impedance and short circuits. Thermal Protection engaged: The amplifier will turn off and several minutes later will come back on.
In
this
case, ensure that there
is
nothing blocking the normal convective airflow of the amplifier.
No
obstruction should
be
within 2"
of
the amplifier
on
all sides. NOTE: Low battery voltage will cause the ampifer to
run
warmer and possibly damage the amplifier. If the
red
LED still lighting
up
after all re-checking, the amplfier is damaged. Please send then a detailled malfunction description and a copy of the invoice
of
purchase
together with the device to you car audio retailer.
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