OWNER'S OPERATING AND MAINTENANCE MANUAL U/ 1/ ■r-» MODEL 616
I N D E X Pages Accessories-..................................................23 How to Use............................................ 24 Hemmers............................................... 25 Seam Gauge or Cloth Guide ...............26 Quilting Guide ......................................26 Attachments ................................................. 34 Adjustable Cord and Zipper Foot 40 Attachment Foot...................................35 Binder..................................................
NEEDLE-THREAD-FABRIC-STITCHING GUIDE Fab ric Need le No. Machine Stitches Per Inch Cotton Thread Mercerized Thread Extremely heavy tarpaulin, sacking, canvas, duck, etc. 4 6 to 8 10 to 30 Heavy Duty Heavy upholstery fabric, ticking, denim, leatherette 3 (18) 8 to 10 30 to 40 Heavy Duty Medium heavy drapery fabric, velveteen, suiting, felt, terry, etc. 2 (16) 10 to 12 40 to 60 Heavy Duty Medium broadcloth, percale, gingham, linen, chintz, taffeta, sheer wool, shantung, etc.
Fig. 3 toward WINDING THE BOBBIN you or counter clockwise. Quide on arm°' ^rom ihe slifching mechanism by Kjrning clutch (6, Fig.3) on one of the spool pins. Lead thread through the upper thread an own through tension disc(9. Fig. 5,)at base of machine. Run end of thread through a hole in bobbin edge (left fbnge and from inside out) and place bobbin 0.on spindle of bobbin winder (7, Fig. 4,) fitting the notch bobbin over small pin on spindle. Push bobbin winder against hand wheel.
SETTING THE NEEDLE Flat ^rlace oi needle shank See Fig. 6. Raise the needle bar to its highest point, turning wheel toward you by hand. Then needle (flot loosen can side upward . as be lo far hole, tightening a screw driver. the needle inserted right) as the in it clamp into the will needle screw clamp needle go clamp into clamp C.
SLOT TENSION SPRING SLOT Fig. 8 Fig. 9 F i g . 10 placing bobbin case in shuttle Raise needle bar to highest position, and slide cover plate F' •9- Hold the bobbin cose latch, (D, etween the thumb and forefinger of the left hand, ih k •tiree inches of thread running from the top of me bobbin case to the right. Insert and center the bobbin a e on the stud of the shuttle body, (C). Be sure the P r e , o p p o fl I » L ° s i t e the shuttle race notch ( A ) .
UPPER THREADING 1. Turn the hand wheel toward you to raise the take-up lever to its highest position. 2. Place a spool of thread on the spool pin 3. lead the thread through the upper arm thread guides. 4. Run the thread through the thread guide bar to the tension discs, then around and between them from right to left. 5. Draw the thread and with a slight Fig. 12) up through the check spring tug into the hook, (See insert 6.
m i Fig. 13 D SETTING THE STITCH LENGTH IH X ■t Fig. 14 stitclT stilch is regulated by control 16 Fig. 14. Near 0 is the shortest SIC an 5 is the longest, but the control may be set at any spot between the markings for a vane y ot lengths. Turn the knob to the right to lengthen and to 'the left to shorten the stitch, e number stitch length you choose is indicated by the pointer. i STITCH LENGTH CHART (APPROXIMATE) Figures on indicator 0 Number of stitches per inch No Feeding 1 2 30 25 .
10 ADJUSTING THE TENSIONS Always as the tension adjust tension on clockwise; the to the is upper released upper thread, decrease, turn tension with when it turn to dial the the is (Fig. left. it is necessary to change the To 15) The on the dial the tighter the tension. Before be sure that the machinp is threaded properly. When presser raised.
) 1 ADJUSTING PRESSURE AND FEEDING OF FABRIC GENERAL bar cap the pressure or darning release (Fig. 19) is at its lowest position and the feed at its highest SEWING. Usually for si raight sewing and various embroidery work, level-wilh the drop feed button marked UP pressed all the way down. (Fig. 18) SEWING THIN OR LIGHT WEIGHT FABRICS when silk or lighter flimsy pressure material, is required to the pressure cap sew satisfactorily should be on about thin halfway down.
I > PREPARING TO SEW Have Itike-up lever at highest point before starting to sew. Do not try to help the feeding by pulling the material as this may deflect the needle and cause it to break. NEVER run machine without material under presser foot. place ate now to touch material ready the and to hand threads begin wheel in position sewing. to By start under having the the machine.
13 STRAIGHT STITCHING For straight sewing on fine fabric or very soft material 'he stra,ght stitch needle plate which are included in your accessory ox. Both have narrow needle slots. Changing the Presser Foot and Needle Plate(1) Presser Foot (A) Loosen thumb screw (22, Fig. 1) and remove zigzag presser foot. (B) (2) Replace with straight stitch presser foot (Fig 22 A) Needle Plate (A) Slide cover plate (21. Fig. 1) to the left as far os possible.
M CREATIVE EMBROIDERY Be sure zigzag presser foot and zigzag needle plate are in glace Th( le satin stitch (Fig. 24) which is really just a very short zigzag stitch and the basis for most embroidery, is obtained by setting stitch length control (see page 9) as near 0 as possible without stopping the feeding action and zigzag width at. 5, (Fig. 23). To stitch continuously at one width of zigzag stitching, set zigzag width stop (B. Fig. 23) to chosen stitch width number.
15 E. Drop feed, set stitch width lock at 5, take 3 or 4 stitches, leave needle in fabric left of stitches. Pivot fabric on needle to make next daisy petal. Continue until flower design is complete. Lock threads by setting stitch width at 0 and taking 3 or 4 stitches in center of design. EMBROIDERING WITH A HOOP It is easy to follow a stamped design or to work free hand when embroidering or monogramh'9- 26). Release the pressure from the foot by pressing down on the snap lock ring darner.
DECORATIVE STITCH DESIGN PATTERNS To sow the decorative design patterns illustrated on the Decorative Stitch Dial (5 Fig. 27)' set the machine as follows; (1) Move release lever 4 to the right and latch (2) (3) (4) Select desired pattern by turning knob 6 so that indicator Unlatch lever 4 and move back its left hand position Set zigzag width control 9 at 0 (5) Set buttonhole (6) Set stitch length control 16 (Fig. action for best appearance.
17 _ELASTIC-DECORATI\I^TITCHES ZIGZAG INDICATOR BUTTONHOlJ elastic and multiple zigzag stitch designs To sdeci desired design as illustrated by 5 (Fig.
BLIND STITCH HEM Use sicindard zigzag foot and needle plate (1) (2) Set stitch length control 16 (Fig. 1) at number 3 or 4 Set machine to sew blind hem (See page 16) (3) Set needle position control 7 (Fig. 27) at right hand position (4) Set buttonhole control 11 (Fig. 28) at 0 position (5) Set zigzag width control 9 (Fig. 27) at 0 position Blind Hemming. Blind stitch hems provide a durable hem finish that is almost invisible and comparable to hand sewing.
19 ELASTIC OR MULTIPLE ZIGZAG STITCHES J / < '■ > < > < f"' <> > < > < >/ < "'i > < > < > < > < > < \ The multiple zigzag stitch and the serpentine stitch are the best for sewing on stretch fabrics. Use when replacing worn blanket bindings as they afford both a decorative and durable finish. Fig. 30 Use when applying elastic waist bands to skirts and dresses. Be sure to stretch the elastic as it is applied, to insure fullness required in the garment.
20 BUTTONHOLES To establish the correct length buttonhole required add H inch to the Cutting space for bar tacks. To obtain through the which length the of button the cutting passes is space, the measured opening by adding the width “ a ” and thickness “ b ” of the button (Fig. 32-A). First mark the fabric or two the with beginning a buttonholes basting on and line scrap end or of the tailor’s fabric buttonhole chalk.
21 (6) Move buttonhole control os for to the right os possible. It will then latch into position for bar tacking. Sew four or five stitches. Step 2. ( ) Push buttonhole control down slightly and manually move to position between Numbers I and 3, being sure it is against the Slop. will set the machine to sew in reverse. Sew right hand side of buttonhole. (8) Move buttonhole control as far to the right as possible, it will then latch into position for bar lack. Sew four or five stitches. Step 4.
SEWING ON BUTTONS t > l Remove p„„er loo, „„d „p|„c. wi,h b„,lo„ ,ew,„g ,oo, \riQ. j 4) (2) Push drop feed button “DOWN" oil the way (Fig.38) OJ Set zigzag width control 6 (Fig. 1) at Q ¡4) Se, needle position control 7 (Fig. 1) ot L position (s; Set machine at M position (See Page 16) (6) Place ballon >o ihe bole on ihe lef, bond ide d direcly „„der Ibe needle (F.g^ 35). iben gonily lower ibe prerser fool (Fig 36) fR (f'9. 1) am,I needle co„,e, down'ejclly ver Ibe „gblhond bole ,n ihe buMon.
23 11) ACCESSORIES f' ti 1. (Fig 39 ) plastic Oiler (Sealed and Filled) 2. Package of Needles (5) 3. Large Screw Driver 4. Small Screw Driver 0 5. Bobbins (3) 6. Felt Washers (2) (for spool pins) 7. Quilter Guide 5» 8. Cloth Guide 16 9. Button Sewing Foot Fig. 29 ., t j n ,3-] > « (i3) 10. Prong Type Buttonhole Foot 11. Presser Foot for Straight Sewing 12. Narrow Hemmer 13. Thumb Screw 14. Needle Plate for Straight Sewing (graduated) m Fig.
24 HOW TO USE ACCESSORIES Narrow Hemmer: W,.h needle ai its highest position replace regular pres- ser foot with narrow hemmer (Fig. 40) being sure to tighten it securely m place. Set needle position lever at “L” position, pattern selector lever at M position and zigzag stitch width control at 0 for straight stitched hem or at number 3 for zigzag stitched hem. Set stitch length control to suit' For a plain narrow hem make a inch double fold for about two inches along edge of fabric.
25 LACE TRIMMED HEM lace In ihe sloTne^ ft'^eeTle ( F . ' q ” ' « ! F ‘''"'''''a. inserì roi ‘7ictrcr„treHo^rTbf laierl bo°"i„',c"'S invisible stitching ""i "I»' ’■iol" l»nd side of fabric aoll o.er o„; siw”!, then^r”.- I" ,s pressed on the wrong side. ■*'« ^''»ching ,s completed the french seam P'^ce^of'^r^a^I'.tnf in^iVoi each other and the top allowing hem to^°oil over Inmaking French seam. For cord nn ! f . '°P enoogh to catch Both edges^^IL^lTr^w-r^.^fieV _ ™ with satin stitch.
■/'6 (Tfr- QUILTING GUIDE Use this guide for making parallel rows of straight or decorative siilchmg. Attach standard presser foot blip U shaped holder on guide under presser fool thumb Ad|usl screw from the back and tighten screw (Fig the curved bar for the distance desired be 47 ) tween rows of stitches and set so it presses slightly on the fabric. By letting the guide ride on the pre vious stitching line, successive distance apart. (Fig. 50). rows will’ be at J Fig. 47 equal Fig, 48 Fig.
27 a Fig. 52 CARE AND MAINTENANCE OF YOUR MACHINE HOW TO OIL YOUR MACHINE Use only a good sewing machine.oil. do not use any com*^on household oils. Your machine should be oiled occasionally to keep if op erating smoothly-how often depends on the amount of sew'^9 you do. Once a year oil your machine thoroughly as indicated by 'he arrows on Figs. 52, 53 and 54. Avoid over oiling. Fig.
V8 CLEANING AND OILING THE SHUTTLE (See Fig. 55 and 56) Ihe stitch forming mechanism occasionally becomes clogged with loose threads and lint. This will interfere with the efficient operation of the machine. Cleaning and removal of the lint will safeguard the performance. To remove the shuttle assembly, proceed as follows; 1. Turn the balance wheel until the needle reaches jU highest position. Tilt head back on its hinges. 2. Remove bobbin case. 3.
29 ADJUSTING AND CHANGING “V” BELT fl 0 iniiii -rnift .4 Fig. 57 Fig. 58 Fig. 59 Following are the instructions for adjusting and changing the "V” belt; ) 2) Remove three screws holding rear cover pivoting around the hand wheel away from (Fig. 59 ) the front To adjust V belt, loosen screws (A, Fig. down to tighten, 58) and and fip it out of the machine. at the bottom Then move bracket B up to loosen bell and ^3) To remove "V" bell: (A) Remove lop cover, (B) (C) loosen screws A" (Fig.
31 Trouble Sk ipping Stitches Irregular Stitches Uneven Stitches Probable Cause Correction Bent needle Discard and replace. Needle placed incorrectly in clamp See instruction page No. 6 . Too fine a needle for thread being used See needle and thread chart, page No. 4. Upper thread tension too loose Tighten upper tension. Improper threading See threading instruction, page No. 8 . Bobbin not wound evenly Rewind bobbin.
T rouble Upper Thread Break ing Material Puckering Probable Cause Correction Improperly threaded Refer to threading instructions, see page No and re thread machine. Too much tension Loosen tension on upper thread by turning t read tension knob to lower number. 8 Starting with take-up in incorrect position Always start sewing with lake-up lever in highest position. Improper setting of needle Refer to needle setting instruction, see page No. 6 . Bent or eye of needle too sharp Try a new needle.
33 Your sewing machine comes equipped with the basic set of accessories describ ed earlier in this book. The following pages illustrate additional time been designed specifically for your machine. saving attachments that have They are available at modest cost from your dealer. |f your dealer cannot supply you with these items, ask him to order them for you by part number. Then you s»/il| be assured of receiving the genuine part designed for best performance machine.
34 SOME OF THE ATTACHMENTS AVAILABLE FOR YOUR MACHINE /L PART tt 1873 FART it 1403 PART #4990 Ruffler Darning Spring Cording & Zipper Fool ^i V PART #74159 PART #82528 Binder Allochment Foot part # 76554 Edgeslitcher t: PART #76553 PART #76552 PART #76551 PART # 76550
35 ATTACHMENTS Be sure the needle extreme left hand position. D tr) Fig. 60 EDGESTITCHER The edgeslilcher is used in making dainty laqe insertions, edgings and piping. The slots in the edgestitcher serve as guides in sewing together various pieces of material. If you want to sew lace, lace and embroidery, or lace and tucked strips together, place ihe piece of material that will be on •op in slot 1 (Fig. 61) and the lower fabric in slot 4.
36 h aie uu^is v.. .■—_______ ,о dre. 1 =Ç= and ".cenai unde, '¿e needle^ond Ьскanu ^oMhe^^ed.ennch. ,b. tend „Гса“;':ГьаХа“СаГ,о„-.,-сЬ^ Нан Г'ьЬ^ Тн.“!»(ГЬа’пТ and ,Ье lace ,n L !.gld, b=,ng sere Ihe ial.nc Rick-rock can be sev/n lo the edge of J:J" x 1 :;''Гп*оГ'’;те,^pie» lebt in do. 2 lí',he »me manne,. ^ ^ g , ,, p,p,„g ,o ,he Mi and ,Ье folded edge ol ibe p.pn.g » ,be and"S Ь,'»^е°,о''пГап'ЬаГТо u.e .he edgeClchec. Tbe,e are hundreds of other uses. Fig. 64 Fig.
37 BINDER sending widdTs ol^comm Ih,s attachment ;ut I^ÍB inch wide. ^'°;he°;prmo:lh'of b,!: '¡ccC. . used for unfolded bios strips FOLDED BINDING Cut a point on folded material in one operation, erciolly folded bias binding. (Fig 69) binding, insert in appropriate by sliding binder to right or left. TWO-TONE BINDING (Fig. 7o) Two bindings can be sewn on fobric «¿9« operotion When two are used, always skip tween widths, inserting each in correct size slot.
J8 THE SET OF HEMMERS Before attacfiing any of the hemmers, be sure bob bin thread is pulled up. Then, with hemmer in place, hold top thread loosely and turn handwheel one full turn toward you, making a loop under hemmer. Grasp bobbin thread with both hands and slip horizontal ly under hemmer toward back. Bobbin thread will catch loop and carry upper thread to back of hem mer. Fold material to suit for two inches along edge, Fig. 71 hold at each end of fold.
39 HEMMER SET Fig. 72 Fig. 73 '<■ F icj.
40 THE ADJUSTABLE CORDING AND ZIPPER FOOT This attachment is used to make and insert covered zippers. cording, Loosen thumb and to screw sew to in slide foot to either right or left of needle. CORDING. Fold bias strip of fabric over cord. Loosen thumb screw and set foot so needle is centered in needle hole. Machine baste cord in place (Fig. 78 ' 80). To sew covered foot so needle of base fabric.
4) ADJUSTABLE CORDING AND ZIPPER FOOT Fig.
A7 RÜFFLER It pp ' '' Wf Fig. 84 Pig The ruffler will produce yards of delicate ruffling or precision pleafina a dress etc. ^ Fig. 86 P'eating a skirl, adding fullness lo the bod.
43 RÜFFLER Fig. 87 Fig.
44 SEWING TIPS When a dainty hair line finish is particularly facings, and yokes, seam allowance that the seam outline with a narrow zigzag stitch. would desirable ordinarily for the show inside through seams is of eliminated sheer by collars, following Trim seam allowance close to line of stitching. Turn and press. EVENLY SPACED BUTTONHOLES To the make a buttonholes row of on one buttonholes long strip evenly of spaced tissue and paper.
45 SHAPING DARTS IN INTERFACINGS 3 K Center Fig. 94 Cut interfacing down center between dart lines. Over lap cut edges, matching dart lines. Zigzag stitch along marking line from point to wide end of dart. Trim both Fig.
46 OVERCASTING WORN EDGES Ziy/ay stilch the needle along the worn edges, catching the fabric as swings to the left, and allowing the needle to just pass over the edge of the fabric on the right (Fig. 98) PATCHING Machine baste patch into place under hole or worn area which has been cut away. Then zigzag stitch the patch into place by overcasting j#.. around edge of hole (Fig. 99).
47 PLAIN BOUND BUTTONHOLE Cut sirnigfil or bias sirips of fabric 2" wide rmrl 1" longer ihnn the desired bullonholes. I’lace rigfil sides logelfier over positions for bu I lon(\ole s. Mark exact length of each but tonhole in center of each strip place a pin ifirough center of the marking. Begin to stitch at the pin; marking an oblong box above and below the line ’ ,i ' across each end. Run a few stitches beyond starting point to reinforce. View t.
4H FOR PORTABLE INSTALLATION Pleciso recid ihese important instructions which With machine in sewing position attach plas were written to oid you in placing your new tic clamp D to top of partition with screw pr sewing machine on its portable bose. ovided so that it may be turned across the bed First, remove the nail which holds the foot control msicJo the base to avoid damage in ship of the machine, to hold it down. (On some bases the clamp may be positioned in the pro per spot). ping.
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