OPERATORS INSTRUCTIONS
WHITE SEWING MACHINE Record in space provided below the Serial No. and Model No. of this appliance. The Serial No. is located Rear of arm. The Model No. is located Rear of arm. Serial No._________^ Model No. 3 1 0 Retain these numbers for future reference.
CONTENTS Page § I: PRELiMiNARY INFORMATION Parts Identification Mam Parts......................................2... 3 Accessories....................................... 4 Electrical Connections........................... 5 Attaching the Extension Plate................ 5 ynr*?REPARATI0¥l3^^ _____MACHINE______________ __________ Choosing the Right Needle.................... 6 Needle, Thread, Fabric and Stitching Guide................................................. 7 Changing the Needle......................
SECTION I PRELIMINARY INFORMATION PARTS IDENTIFICATION MAIN PARTS
1. Take-up Lever Always at its highest position when beginning or ending sewing. 2. Pressure Control For regulating the pressure on the fabric. 3. Top Thread Guides For leading the thread to the tension dial for sewing. 4. Stitch Pattern/ For selecting the stitch pattern and setting the zigzag Buttonhole Dial 5. Bobbin Winder width, as well as for easy four-step buttonholes. For winding thread on a bobbin. 6. Hand Wheel 7.
iXi ( \ \'.t 'MM wnh the following set of accessories to Buttonhole Foot Use for buttonhoU ing *4- ••»Cl Button Sewing Foot hold button in place for stitching. fs Two Felt Washers Cording and Zipper Foot Pldce the telt vwiishers under the spools for best stitching results. for stitching very close to the edge of a cord or zipper. Quilting Guide Screwdrivers Small one for use on bobbin tension. Large one for use on thumb screw, needle clamp screw, etc.
ELECTRICAL TIOISIS CONNEC- Insert the plug with the inden^ tations on the underside into the socket on the right side of the machine. The plug will only go in one way. Place the foot control in such a position that your foot rests comfort ably on it. Insert the plug into a wall outlet, 110^120V. A/hen not in use, keep the plug iisconnected from machine. ATTACHING SION PLATE EXTEN- To change to flat sewing surface, place extension plate as follows. 1. 2. 3. i.
SECTION II __ CHOOSING THE RIGHT NEEDLE TYPES OF NEEDLES The correct selection of needle to suit the thread and fabric being sewn gives the best stitching results. Fine fabric should be sewn with fine needles, heavier fabrics with heavier needles. For best results, sewing machine needles should be replaced when they become even slightly dull or bent or at the completion of every other garment. A regular needle is suggested for use with woven fabrics.
MEEDLE, THREAD, FABRIC & STITCHING GUIDE The correct selection of needle and thread to suit the fabric will result in more satisfactory stitching. Fine fabrics should be stitched with fine needles, fine thread and short stitches. For the best results on heavier fabrics, use coarser needles, heavier threads and longer stitches. Replace the machine needle when it becomes even slightly dull or bent. Madiiiw Mercerized Syntfietic Thr^ Needle No.
CHANGING THE NEEDLE Always change the needle after every othtr garment, especially when sewing on ijolyester and nylon fabrics which dull iMMidles much faster. When needles are dull or bent, they damage both your fabric and the machine. A general rule when placing sewing machine needles is that the flat side of the needle is placed to the back of the machine, when the bobbin is put in from the front. If the needle is inserted incorrectly, the stitches will not form. To change the needle: 1.
CHANGING THE FOOT For most ordinary sewing the original all-purpose foot can be used. How ever, it is recommended to use the following special feet in your accessory box whenever you want a better stitching result. Straight Stitch Foot This has only a narrow hole to accom modate only straight stitching. It may be used on sheer or soft fabrics for more control. Buttonhole Foot This foot has a groove underneath, to allow the narrow satin stitch or buttonhole to form evenly.
WINDING THE BOBBIN Disengage the hand wheel (1) from the stitching mechanism by turning the coupling wheel (2) towards you or counterclockwise. Place a spool of thread on one of the spool pins and lead the thread through the rear Top Thread Guide (3) after wind ing it around the Bobbin Widner Tension Disc. Slip the end of the thread through a hole in the rim of the bobbin and place the bobbin on the spindle of the bobbin winder (4), fitting the notch on the bobbin over the small spring on the spindle.
UPPER THREADING 1. Turn the hand wheel toward you to raise the take up lever to its highest position. 2. Place a spool of thread on the spool pin, 3. Lead the thread through the top thread guides. 4. Down and between the tension discs, from right to left. 5. Draw the thread up through the check spring and with a slight tug into the hook. 6. Up and through the eye of takeup lever from right to left. 7.
THREADING BOBBIN CASE 1. Hold bobbin case between thumb and forefinger of left hand, so that the slot in the edge of the bobbin case is on top. Take the bobbin between thumb and forefinger of right hand so that the thread on top leads from left to right. 2. Insert bobbin into bobbin case, pull the thread into the slot of the bobbin case and draw it under tension spring and into the fork shaped opening of the spring.
SECTION III GETTING TO KNOW YOUR MACHINE SELECTION OF THE STITCH: STITCH LENGTH DIAL This dial controls the forward feeding of the fabric. At 0, the fabric is not fed at all. As the numbers increase, so does the length of the stitch. Turn the dial so that the desired number is below the white guide mark. Note: Always set at 5 or the ^ mark when the pattern selector is set at one of the ^ marks.
STITCH PATTERN/BUTTONHOLE DIAL This dial is used for selecting the stitch pattern, for adjust ing the zigzag width and for sewing the easy, built-in, fourstep buttonhole. • Stitch Pattern Selector: Including straight and zigzag stitches, 6 kinds of the stitch patterns, as shown on the dial, can be selected. Turn this dial in any direction and the pattern of the stitch chosen is indicated by the white guide mark above the dial. ......
CONTROLS: ADJUSTING TENSIONS THE THREAD Always adjust the upper thread tension with the presser foot lowered, as the tension is released when it is raised. To increase the tension on the upper thread, turn the tension dial to the right. To decrease the tension, turn it to the left. Before adjusting the tension, make sure that the machine is threaded correctly. Normal upper tension is usually between 4 —6 . The bobbin thread tension seldom requires adjustment.
ADJUSTING THE PRESSURE FABRIC AND THE FEED DOG HEIGHT ON THE • General Sewing For normal sewing, except when sewing on very heavy and bulky fabrics, the center pin (A) of the pressure control should be at its lowest posi tion, with the feed dog height at the UP position, obtained by pressing the part of the feed dog height button to the right of the rotary hook. For special fabrics, as mentioned above, reduce the pressure by half.
SEWING LIGHT The sewing light is located in face cover directly over the needle so as to better illumi nate the stitching area. Turn the light on and off by pressing the button located at the back side of face cover. To replace bulb, disconnect the plug and open the face cover to the left. Unscrew the bulb as you do a conventional light bulb. Place new bulb in socket and screw in place.
] SECTION IV PREPARING TO SEW Have take-up lever at highest position before starting to sew. Pinning may be used as a time saver instead of hand basting. It is possible to sew over pins when placed at right angles to the edge of fabric with the pin head at the raw edge, but for best results it is recommended that the pins be removed as you approach the presser foot. Sewing over pins can result in damaged needles. Place material and threads under presser foot and lower the presser foot.
SEWING ACROSS HEAVY SEAMS When approaching heavy seam, hold the fabric upward on an angle so that the heavy seam falls under the front curve of presser foot. FREE-ARM SEWING For sewing tubular and hard^ to-reach areas, use your machine as a free arm.
SECTION V STRAIGHT STITCH: SEAMS The normal stitch length for most fabrics is between 2—3 but the length chosen should depend on the fabric and area of usage. Usually, heavier fabrics require longer stitches, and lighter weight fabrics require shorter stitches. For curved seams and bias cut areas use a shorter stitch length.
CORDING AND ZIPPER FOOT • Insert Cording (A) Fold bias strip of fabric over cord. Loosen the adjusting screw on the back of cording/zipper foot and set the foot to the left of needle. (B) Sandwich the welting between two layers of fabric with right sides together. Stitch a second time with cording/zipper foot to the right of needle so that the needle stitches close to the cord through all thicknesses.
ZIGZAG STITCH: OVERCASTING Place the edge of the material underneath the opening of the sewing foot and guide the raw edge along the centre slot of the foot allowing the stitch to form half on and half off the fabric. The multiple stitch zigzag is a wiser choice for most fabrics. See Page 26. SEWING KNITS The narrow zigzag can be used for seams in firm knits for added strength. After sew ing, open the seam and press it flat. Tiny zigzag stitches can hardly be seen and the seam will give when stretched.
• With a Thread Shank Buttons sewn on coats or jackets should have a thread shank to make them stand away from the fabric. To form a thread shank, sew over a pin or rounded tooth pick. After stitching the button to the fabric, remove work from under the presser foot leaving threads about six inches from fabric. Remove pin or toothpick. Pull the threads to back of button and form a shank between button and fabric by winding threads tightly around the attaching stitches.
FREEHAND MONOGRAMMING For giving garments and linens a personaliz ed touch, first transfer the design to the right side of the fabric. An embroidery hoop is recommended especially for soft fabrics and toweling. In order to monogram, you must move the fabric slowly and run the machine rapidly. Monogramming is like writing by moving the paper under a stationary pen. Guide the fabric slowly so that the zigzag falls close together like a satin stitch, but be careful that the stitches do not pile up.
GATHERING OVER A CORD Ordinary gathering with a basting stitch often breaks thread while pulling in full ness. A small zigzag across a cord such as crochet thread or carpet thread, gives a much stronger cord for gathering fullness into fabrics. Once the gathers have been stitched in place, the cord can be pulled out in order to eliminate bulk.
SEWING TIPS When a dainty hair line finish is particularly desirable for the inside seams of sheer collars, facings, and yokes, seam allowance that would ordinarily show through is eliminated by following the seam outline with a narrow zigzag stitch. Trim seam allowance close to line of stitching. Turn and press.
TWIN NEEDLE SEWING Attractive parallel straight stitch effects and decorative zigzag patterns can be made easily by sewing with the twin needle . They are very effective for various kinds of garment finishes, such as topstitching, borders, etc. When sewing with the twin needle, the stitch pattern dial should be set in the white zone. The use of colour-matched or contrasting threads will result in a more attractive finish. Note; Use the zigzag needle plate when sewing with the twin needle.
BUTTONHOLES: Various fabrics require various methods of sew ing buttonholes. Three different methods are given below, with suggested uses. If you are in doubt as to which method is best for your fabric, test the methods in question and choose the best according to the finished appearance. PREPARATION For the best results, a good quality mercerized cotton thread should be used. Polyester threads often result in puckered or heavy unattractive buttonholes.
BUILT-IN BUTTONHOLE This buttonhole makes it unnecessary to pivot the fabric. It is used most often on light and medium weight woven fabric. The stitch length dial should be turned to the Pmark or near 0 so as not to stop the feeding action. A buttonhole with a width of 3/16" can be made simply by turning the stitch pattern dial from buttonhole position 1 to 2, 3 and 4 consecutively. 1. Set the dial at the red square marked (1j buttonhole position.
TURN-AROUND BUTTONHOLE It is possible to make small and dainty button holes if you desire, or to repair damaged buttonholes. This entails slightly moving the cloth but, with some practise, good button holes can be achieved. D 1. Set the stitch length dial at the mark, or density you desire. 2. Choose the desired width of your button hole. Example; If you want a buttonhole with a width of 1/8" , set the stitch width dial on half this width, i.e. 1/16". 3.
BLIND HEM STITCH The blind hem provides a durable hem finish that is almost invisible on garments, drapes, and curtains. It is sewn easily on straight or slightly curved hems. With a little practice, hems will be sewn quickly and easily and will never need repairing. Procedure: (1) Prepare the raw edge of the hem in the desired manner, such as overcasting, 1/4 inch stitched under, pinked, hem tape, or just plain. (Step 1) (2) Fold the hem up to the desired length. Baste or pin 1/2 inch from the upper edge.
STRAIGHT STRETCH STITCH SEAMS This stitch may be used on knits and woven fabrics, in areas of stress, as a reinforcement stitch. It is excellent for curved seams such as armholes and crotch seams. For active wear such as ski pants and girdle fabrics which endure a lot of stress in bending and stretching, this stitch may be used for seaming throughout the garment. —7) Pattern: ijj Length: ^ Feed Dog: Up Ak-.
I SECTION VI cXre and maintenance of youh machine OILING MACHINE Use only a good sewing machine oil, do not use any common household oils. Your machine should be oiled occasionally to keep it operating smoothly. How often depends on the amount of sewing you do. Once a month oil your machine thoroughly as indicated by the arrows on illustrations, specifically those point marked in red on your machine. Place a single drop to avoid over oiling.
CLEANING AND OILING THE SHUTTLE AREA The stitch forming mechanism occasional ly becomes clogged with loose threads and lint. This will interfere with the efficient operation of the machine. Cleaning and removal of the lint will safeguard the performance. To remove the shuttle assembly, proceed as follows: 1. Turn hand wheel until the needle reaches its highest position. Tilt head back on its hinges. 2. Remove bobbin case (A). 3.
PROBLEM AND REMEDIES Trmible Prd^able Cause The machine sticks Thread or lint in the shuttle hook. Skipped stitches Bent needle Replace with new needle (see page 8). Needle placed incorrectly in the clamp. Fit the needle correctly (see page 8i. Too fine a needle for the thread being used. Replace the needle or thread so that they are correctly matched (see page 7i. Too stretchy fabric. Place a piece of paper beneath the fabric, or use the Ball Point Needle. Upper thread tension too loose.
If your machine skips stitches only on certain fabrics, try all of the procedures on the previous page before calling a repair-man. Check the needle plate area, if there are scratches and marks around the needle hole opening, your machine is not being cleaned properly. Always remove the needle plate and clean the feed dogs periodically.
■ -■■r ..n 11750 BEREA ROAD-CtSViLANO, OHIO 44111 1470 BtRCHMOUNT ROAD. SOAfOtORbUGH.
