Blue Jeans _ Machine W H ITE ■ ■ ■ ■ ■■■■ SEWINQ MACHINE
CONTENTS 1. NAMES OF PARTS.....................................................................................................................................................2 2. ACCESSORIES........................................................................................................................................................... 3 3. BEFORE SEWING...................................................................................................................................................
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I. NAMES OF PARTS 1. Thread guide for bobbin winding 2. Foot pressure regulator 3. Upper thread tension dial 4. Face cover 5. Thread guide for upper threading 6. Presser foot thumb screw 7. Presser foot 8. Shuttle cover 9. Top cover 10. Bobbin winding spindle II. Screw hole for extra spool pin 12. Zigzag width control 13. Special buttonhole adjustment 14. Stitch length dial 15. Reverse sewing lever 16. Pattern selection dial 17. Free arm 18. Drop feed lever 19. Handwheel 20. Stop motion knob 21. Socket 22.
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3. BEFORE SEWING Machine Is stored in flat-bed style which makes your work easier for ordinary sewing. Detaching Extension Table Slide off, and the machine is used as a free-arm model. To open top cover of accessory box, push open, as illustrated. Do vice-versa of above steps to at tach extension table. Free-arm is convenient to sew or embroider; trousers, sleeves, cuffs, T-shirts, blouses, etc.
Connecting Foot Controller and Power Cord Connect foot controller and power cord © ® . Before plugging in your machine, be sure that voltage is same as that of your machine (* written on a plate at back of machine) * Specifications vary from country to country. a Put power switch on the machine and turn on the sewing light. b Push button to turn sewing light on and off. Always switch off or unplug machine when not in use. * Specifications vary from country to country.
Changing Needle Set needle in the highest position by turning handwheel towards you. Loosen needle clamp screw and take out needle. With flat face away from you, insert a new needle into groove of needle bar. Push needle until it reaches stopper @ and tighten needle clamp screw firmly. Always use a straight needle with a sharp point. Using defective or worn needles not only causes stitch skipping, break age of needles or snapping of thread: it also can damage hook and needle plate.
Changing Foot Raise presser foot lifter. Set needle in the highest position by turning handwheel towards you. (1) Push button of holder towards you and foot will come off. (2) Position a new foot by aligning holding groove of shank with pin of foot. (3) Lower presser foot lifter so that holder catches presser foot.
Bobbin Winding Set needle in the highest position by turning handwheel towards you . Open shuttle cover. Open latch of bobbin case and remove case. Release latch of bobbin case and bobbin comes out easily.
Push back to fold handle. Open top cover. Put a spool on spool pin. Draw thread from spool pin through thread guide and pretension device, following numbers ®,(D and®. Caution: Spool should be put on spool pin in the manner of its thread being drawn from under side of spool. Wind thread clockwise around bob bin several times. Push bobbin onto spindle. Holding handwheel with your left hand disengage handwheel by unscrewing stop motion knob.
Push bobbin to right and press down foot controller. Machine stops automatically when bobbin is full. Push bobbin to left, to disengage from wheel. Take off bobbin from spindle and cut thread. Retighten stop motion knob. trouble If bobbin is wound unevenly as shown, open top cover and use screw driver to adjust the guide for bobbin winding.
Inserting Bobbin Place bobbin in case with thread running in direction of arrow. Guide thread into slot @ of bobbin case.
Adjusting Lower Tension To test bobbin tension, hang and shake bobbin case as shown. At proper tension bobbin case will gradually drop a small amount. To adjust tension, turn adjusting screw with small screwdriver. Raise needle to highest position. Leave end of thread of about 10 cm (4") from bobbin case. Take hold of latch and push bobbin case into hook. Release latch when bobbin case is fully inserted. Drop Feed Lever The lever is in the right side of shuttle cover.
Threading Upper Thread Raise presser foot. Set take-up lever to the highest po sition by turning handwheel towards you. Open top cover and put spool into spool pin. Caution: Spool should be put on spool pin In the manner of Its thread being drawn from under side of spool. Thread, following numbers ®-(D. Pass thread through guide ©then to ®. Lead thread thru either side of ten sion disc (D. Hook it to lower guide ® from right to left upwards. Thread take-up lever (§).
Twin Needle Threading Extra spool pin is packed in accessory tray. Screw thread extra spool pin in screw hole, place a felt and put another spool. Thread in ttie same way as normal threading, except at points © and ®. At point pass threads separately to right and left of tension disc. At guide ®, pass one of threads to right guide and the other at left guide. At point ®, thread from right guide should be lead to right needle eye, and from left guide to left needle eye.
Drawing Up Lower Thread Hold the end of upper thread with left hand. Turn handwheel slowly towards you until needle moves down and up again. Pull upper thread slowly and lower thread will be brought up in a loop. Pull out both threads about 15cm (6") and place them together under presser foot to left. HGTE: Always place thread to the back or left when starting to sew a seam. Failure to do this may cause thread Jamming.
Fabric, Thread and Needle Table THREAD FABRIC European Mercerizec NEEDLE Cotton Covered European Polyester, Silk, Nylon 705 U.S.
Pattern Setting PATTERN NAME TWIN NEEDLE PATTERN SELECTOR [IBI] 1-4 BUTTONHOLE STRAIGHT mm A^W/WV /VNAAAAAA/ AAAA BLIND HEM aAaaAa/\Aa /^A\AAA^A^ /nAa/sAaa/V\. \ A A / \/\/\/ VVV V.
4. STRAIGHT SEWING Set machine as shown. If you need to move needle position to left side, set zigzag width control 5. Pattern Selection Dial Turn dial to choose pattern. Dial can be turned either to right or to left. * Always make sure needle is in the highest position when oper ating dial. Stitch Length Dial Set dial at indicating point (a; ac cording to stitch size required. For a longer stitch, turn dial to right. For a shorter stitch, turn it to left. For normal sewing it is set between 2 and 3.
Place fabric under foot about 1cm (0.4") inside the edge. Lower presser foot lifter. Double Presser Foot Lifter In order to obtain wider gap when using very thick materials, firmly push presser foot lifter up as far as it will go. To reinforce seam, sew backwards to the edge of fabric by pushing down reverse sewing lever. Hold lever down for longer reverse sewing. Release lever and commence for ward sewing, guiding fabric by hand as it is fed. Never pull material.
Cloth Guide Use cloth guide when sewing a long seam of regular distance from edge of material. Set guide in hole on arm, at right of needle plate, and adjust distance. Run machine with edge of fabric touching guide. Position cloth guide at an angle to sew a curved seam. Sew reverse stitches for reinforce ment at end of seam. Draw fabric to left wheri sewing is finished. Cut threads with thread cutter behind presser bar.
Applications of Straight Stitch A. Seams The normal stitch length for most fabrics is 3, but the length chosen should depend on the fabric and area of usage. Usually, heavier fabrics require longer stitches, and lighter weight fabrics require shorter stitches. Rjr curved seams and bias cut areas use a shorter stitch length to add strength and elasticity to the seam. B. Basting/Topstitching Sewing a seam with a longer stitch is useful for temporary seams prior to fitting.
5. ZIGZAG SEWING Set machine as shown. To prevent seam ends unravelling, set machine for straight stitch and sew in reverse at beginning and ending of seam. Zigzag Width Control Set control at required number. Larger the number, wider the stitch. Set it at 0 for straight sewing. Make sure needle is in upper posi tion when you set control, and extra thread is placed to the left or rear. Thread Tension for Zigzag Stitch Better-looking zigzag stitching requires less upper tension than straight stitching.
6. MAKING BUTTONHOLES Set machine as shown. Determine Length Measure diameter and thickness of button and add 0.3cm (1/8") for bar tacks. Mark buttonhole size on material. Determine Width Determine width according to di ameter of button, its thickness, and kind of material. Attach buttonhole foot. Completely push back sliding part a of buttonhole foot. Place material under foot so that marking of buttonhole passes through center of foot. Arrow (b) of foot indicates beginning line of marking.
Bar tacking: Set pattern selection dial to 1 (, a) and sew 5-6 stitches. Left side:Change pattern to 2 (aiJ). Sew left side from front to back un til it reaches end line. Remember the point of arrow so that it is not necessary to mark end lines for all buttonholes. Bar tacking: Change pattern to 3 ( ) and sew 5-6 stitches. Right side: Change pattern to 4 (Ci'*) 3nd sew right side until it reaches first bar tack. Quick flnish:To prevent unstitching, set zigzag width at 0 and proceed for a few stitches.
Buttonhole Density Adjustment Adjustment is located to right of stitch length dial. With some materials it is possible that the sides or density of a button hole will vary, it is possible to adjust or balance these sides by turning the special buttonhole adjustment to “ + ” or to attain a correct balance. It is advised to always turn this ad justment to center as this may vary some of the other stitches slightly.
Cutting Buttonholes stick a needle or pin through bar tacks to prevent over-cutting. Cut buttonhole along center with buttonhole cutter.
7. SEWING ON BUTTONS Set machine as shown. Position a button and material un der foot. When needle comes to left side of stitch, lower foot. Raise needle and adjust zigzag width so that needle comes to right hole of button. Make one stitch be certain that nee dle is aligned with botton’s holes. Run machine at medium speed and sew 5-6 zigzag stitches. Stop machine when needle is in upper position.
8. OVERCASTING For light weight material: Set machine as shown. Overcasting prevents edge of fabric from fraying and produces neat finish.
9. OVERLOOKING Overlocking stitches make it possi ble to sew and overcast seams at the same time. Set machine as shown. Put two pieces of cloth together with right sides facing and sew. To prevent edges from fraying, sew so that right side stitches drop out side the edge of material. Then press flat. In some cases overlocking stitches can be used for overcasting.
10. STRETCH STITCHING 10 11 12 13 The stitches shown are all used with stretch and knit fabrics. These are special utility stitches built in the machine for your quick selection. 14 10 Straight stretch 11 Rickrack briar stretch 12 Overlock stretch 13 Double overlook stretch 14 Briar stitch J Adjusting Stretch Stitch Balance In stretch stitch sewing, the stretch stitch adjuster should usually be in a neutral position (between “+” and .
Application of Rick-Rack |//Awk\| A. Topstitching/RIck-Rack A decorative topstitch can be produced with the rick-rack stitch. Stitch around the structural lines of the garment for a special effect. Topstitch braid or a decorative inset to add an additional creative flair. J B. Tapering/Rick-Rack The rick-rack stitch may be tapered to .form creative stems and petals of flowers, embroidered pictures and wall hangings. As in tapering the zigzag, slowly turn the stitch width dial from 0 to 5 and back to 0.
Application of Decorative Fun Patterns >>V> A. Fun stitches-Briar The reverse stitch patterns produce briar designs for use on household linens and children clothes. These reverse stitch pattern can be used to sew in hems. The reverse stitch patterns can also be used for topstitching bindings and ribbons for decorative effect. This is done in the same manner that lace is applied with the zigzag stitch.
11. BLIND HEM STITCH Set machine as shown. Fold material as shown and place under foot. For a neater finish, it is preferable to baste or iron the hem beforehand. 3~5mm(0.2" Sew carefully, so that straight stitches are made on hem edge, and slanting stitches pierce only one or two threads of fold.
a Correct seam. B Needle is catching edge of fold too much. c Needle is not catching edge of fold at all. right side wrong side Elastic Blind Hem Stitch For elastic materials, set machine as shown and sew in the same way as for normal blind hem stitch.
12. STRETCH SEAM A ball-point needle is essential. ' Paper may be laid under knits for smoother feeding. a Medium-weight fabrics Double knit, jersey. Apply elastic triple straight stitch. b Light-weight fabrics Apply small zigzag. Reduce upper and lower thread tension. c For Very elastic fabrics Spandex (power net) Use lapped or abutted seam. Apply multiple zigzag.
13. ZIPPER SEWING Set machine as shown. Used for dresses, blouses skirts, trousers, bags, etc. By using the special zipper foot, zip per sewing can be easily done. 0.3cm (V.") Bsnu. Pll wrong side (1) With right sides together, tack along seam line of the opening f;. (2) Open the tacked seam and pull out the lower material 0.3cm(V8"). Place the folded edge over the right side of the zipper and tack over it. (3) Replace the presser foot with the zipper foot on the left of the needle.
14. SHELL STITCHING Silk, nylon organdy or similar sheer fabrics are suitable. Set machine as shown. Fold edge of material. With folded edge to left, place it under presser foot. Pull thread ends towards back when starting sewing. Adjust tension to 8 or 9 to form the shell effects. Always return the tension setting to normal when finishing the shell effect. Make sure needle misses raw edge of fold when it moves side ways.
15. PIN TUCKING Set machine as shown. For better appearance, use sheer material and tighten lower thread a little. For twin needle threading see p.l4. Insert the quilting guide under the spring plate on the holder. Mark first line with pencil or tailor’s chalk, and sew. From second line, just sew, follow ing seam of first line using guide. Interval between seams can be adjusted by moving guide in direction of arrow.
16. QUILTING Set machine as shown. Baste layers of material to prevent them from slipping out as you sew. Attach quilting guide and sew in the same way as pin tucking.
17. MENDING Patching Set machine as shown. A fi, vM j 14 i/.s l,--^y y W « y-#-'^ V y U.-rVi Place the patch over the worn part. Pull thread ends toward back or left when starting sewing. Sew along the edge of the patch on the right side. Trim away the worn part close to the seam on back side. »t m-i Mending a Rip Set machine in the same way as for patching. Sew the edges of tear together first. Then sew two more seams on either side. A piece of gauze can be placed underneath to reinforce the rip.
Darning Set machine as shown. Stretch fabric over the hoop @ or sew with free arm ® according to the part you are going to darn. Sew over the worn-out part with closely spaced stitches, guiding material back and forth by hand. By making turning points blunt, the darned part becomes softer and more flexible.
19. APPLIQUE WORK Set machine as shown. Draw design on material to be used as an applique and cut it out. Place cut-out on base material and baste it. Sew around outline with zigzag stitch adjusting stitch length and width according to shape and size of cut-out and type of base material. To change direction at corners, or to sew very small circles, stop machine, positioning needle just away from edge of cut-out, lift press er foot and turn material. Lower presser foot and continue sewing.
Set machine as shown. Remove foot, and holder screw. To avoid lower thread being pulled up, reduce upper thread tension. V - ------------------------------------ ---—- V For good embroidery, it is important to use correct needles and thread. Use thin embroidery silk for upper thread and a thinner silk of same kind and color for lower thread. Needle Thread No. 9 120-100 Trace your design on material and center it in embroidery hoop. Made sure material is taut. No. n No. 14 V ...................
20. MAINTENANCE Your machine requires regular cleaning and oiling for satisfactory sewing performance. A machine which is used for a few hours a day needs to be cleaned and oiled once a month. Cleaning Remove foot and needle. Remove needle plate. Brush off all dust and lint on feed dog with cleaning brush. Turn latches outwards. Remove hook race cover. Remove hook. Clean hook race with a cleaning brush and a soft cloth.
Oiling Use oil manufactured especially for sewing machine use. Other oils will eventually cause mechanism to jam. Apply one drop of oil to hook where friction occurs. Replace hook and race cover care fully, turn handwheel manually to insure correct assembly. Open face cover and apply oil to points indicated with arrow. Be careful not to apply too much oil or it may stain your material and cause some sewing difficulty. After oiling, run machine for 1-2 minutes to allow oil to penetrate to every part.
21. TROUBLE CHART PROBLEM Breaking lower thread PROBABLE CAUSE Thread not wound evenly on the bobbin or not drawn up correctly Lower thread tension too tight Lint stuck in the bobbin case and inside the tension spring Skipping stitches Irregular stitches Thè material not fed correctly Noisy machine CORRECTION RIO, P.15 P.12 Remove lint and fluff with a cleaning brush Needle not fully inserted P. 6 Needle bent P. 6 Size or type of needle and thread not suitable for the material P.
