Table of Contents page 1. Features and Parts.......................................... .. 1 - 3 Principle Parts.............................................................1-2 Accessories ................................................................. 3 U. Installation of Machine Head......................................... 4 Portable Case................................................................. 4 Cabinet.......................................................................... 4 III.
I. Feattires and Parts Principle Parts Picture Window pictures the stitches and allows for easy selection. Descriptive Tension Dial regulates the amount of tension on the needle thread. Take-Up Lever regulates the flow of thread throu^ the needle. It has an open-slot to simplify threading. The take up lever should always be in its highest position when beginning or ending sewing. Face Plate opens to the left. Allows easy changing of the light bulb.
Pattern Selector selects the stitch shown above the indicator in the picture window. Hand Wheel controls the up and down movement of the needle bar. Always turn it toward you. Coupling Wheel releases the movement of the needle bar in order to wind a bobbin. Stitch Length Dial allows for precise adjustment of stitch length from very fine to very long. Push Button Reverse allows for easy backtacking to lock thread ends.
Accessories Your new White Rotary sewing machine comes equipped with the following set of accessories to make your sewing easier. Four Metal Bobbins The bobbins have holes in one side for convenient bobb in placement. Buttonhole Foot Is adjustable and regulates proper buttonhole length every time. Needles light ball point needles, two each of sizes 11, 14 and 16 are provided. Two twin need les are also included. Button Sewing Foot To hold button in place for stitching.
n . Installation of Machine Head Portable Case Lay the sewing machine unit face down on a table. On the underside of the back of the sewing machine are two clamping screws (A). These enter the head hinge holes (B). Release the clamping screws. On the base of the portable case are two head hinges (C). Lower the sewing machine onto the base, fitting the hinges (C) into the holes (B). Tighten the clamping screws securely with a screw driver. Place machine in an upright sewing position.
Ш. Preparing Machine to Sew Winding the Bobbin Disengage the hand wheel by tightly with your left hand and coupling wheel toward you with hand. (Fig.21) Place spool on leaving about one foot of thread holding it turning the your right spool pin, free, then place spool cap over spool as shown (Fig. 22) until it holds the spool in place. Lead thread as illustrated. (Fig.
Upper Threading 1. Turn hand wheel toward you to raise the take-up lever to its highest position. Presser foot should be in the raised position. 2. Lead thread from the spool as illustrated, (Fig. 22) being sure to place the spool cap so that it holds the spool securely. Draw the thread between the tension discs and around toward the right until it emerges under the finger like projection. Bring the thread through the succeeding points as illustrated.
rv. Choosing the Right Needle Types of Needles The correct selection of needle to suit the thread and fabric being sewn gives the best stitching results. Fine fabrics should be sewn with fine needles, heavier fabrics with heavier needles. For best results, sewing machine needles should be replaced when they become even slightly dull or bent or at the completion of every other garment. A regular needle is woven fabrics.
Consult this chan whi'iiever a difjereiit /17«' of fai)rw is lo he stili heil. The correct selection of needle and thread to suit the fabric will result in more satisfactory stitching. Fine fabrics should be stitched with fine needles, fine thread Needle and short stitches. For best results on heavier fabrics, use coarser needles, Thread and needle .sizes for various kinds and weights of fabrics. heavier threads and longer stitches.
Qianging the Needle 31 Always change the needle after every other garment especially when sewing on polyester and nylon fabrics which dull needles much faster. When needles are dull or bent, they damage both your fabric and the machine. A general rule when replacing sewing machine needles is that the flat side of the needle is placed to the back of the machine, when the bobbin is put in from the front. If the needle is inserted incorrectly, the stitches will not form. To change the needle 1. 2. 3. 4.
V. Getting to Know Your Sewing Machine Adjusting the Stitch Pattern - M Length - 0-4 Width - 0 Needle Position - M Feed Dog - High Pressure — 5 Foot - All Purpose This dial (Fig.33) controls the forward feeding of the fabric. At 0, the fabric does not feed at all. As the numbers increase so does the length of the stitch. Turn the blue dial so that the desired number is above the blue line on the white button.
Pattern Selector This dial (Fig. 37) selects the stitch pattern to be made according to the pictures shown at the blue indicator. Turn the silver selector dial to the right and the picture of the stitch to be formed will be shown in the top position. The stitches shown are as follows: 1. M stands for manual position which gives the standard straight stitch when the width is at 0 and the standard zigzag when the width is engaged.
When straight stitching with the all purpose foot, the needle may be moved to get closer to an edge or to make guiding of the fabric more convenient, as in topstitching. The needle can also be moved in relation to the zipper foot in order to take full advantage of the feed dog. Caution: When using the straight use the M position of the needle only. Pattern - M Length - 2 Width - 5 Feed Dog Pressure - 5 Foot - All Purpose 39 stitch foot Adjusting for the Fabric Feed Dog Control This lever (Fig.
Tension Dial The top tension (Fig.41) consists of discs between which the thread passes. The descriptive tension dial regulates how tightly the thread is being held. When necessary, adjust the top tension in relation to the red line, turning toward “loose” or “tight” as needed. The top tension is engaged only when the presser foot is down for sewing. The bobbin thread tension is controlled by the left small screw on the front edge of the bobbin case. (Fig.
The Proper Presser Foot 46 Changing the sole Pull presser foot shank lever toward you, to remove the sole. (Fig.46 Step 1) Place desired sole under shank and lower presser foot lever onto the sole. (Fig.46 Step 2) Sole will be locked in automatically. (Fig.46 Step 3) Step 1 The All Purpose Foot This foot (Fig.47) is flat on the bottom and has a wide hole to accommodate wide stitches. This foot should be used for all of your normal sewing so that you can use any stitch without changing the foot.
VI. How to Sew Pinning may be used as a time saver instead of hand basting. Place your pins at right angles to the edge of the fabric with the pin head at the raw edge. It is possible to sew over pins, but for best results it is recommended that the pins be removed as you approach the presser foot. Sewing over pins can result in damaged needles. Placement of Fabric/Starting a Seam Before placing fabrics under the presser foot, make sure that the take-up lever is at its highest position.
57 For the fine delicate fabrics, such as chiffon, georgette, and tricot, the best results will be attained by holding the fabnc in front and back of the needle without pulling on it. Turning Corners To pivot at a comer, (Fig.57) leave the needle in the fabric while on the upswing so that the stitch is almost completed, thus preventing the possibility of skipped stitches m the comer. Lift the presser foot and pivot the fabric. Then, lower the presser foot and continue sewing.
Vn. Applications of the Straight Stitch Seams The normal stitch length for most fabrics is 2, but the length chosen should depend on. the fabric and area of usage. Usually, heavier fabrics require longer stitches, and lighter weight fabrics require shorter stitches. For curved seams and bias cut areas use a shorter stitch length to add strength and elasticity to the seam.
Vin.
Satin Stitching This is useful for decoration such as tapering, manual designed embroidery, monogramming, and applique. (Fig.68) The satin stitch, which is really just a very close zigzag stitch, is obtained by setting the stitch length as near to “0” as possible without stopping the feeding action. The setting will vary for different fabrics. It may be desirable to loosen the upper tension slightly to cause the threads to lock under neath, in order to make the top surface look especially smooth.
72 Freehand Monogramming For giving garments and linens a personalized touch, first transfer the design to the right side of the fabric. An embroidery hoop is recommended especially for soft fabrics and toweling. (Fig.72) When you monogram loosen upper thread tension slightly. In order to monogram, you must move the fabric slowly and run the machine rapidly. Monogramming is like writing by moving the paper under a stationary pen.
75 Gathering Over a Cord Ordinary gathering with a basting stitch often breaks while pulling in fullness. A small zigzag across a cord such as crochet thread or carpet thread, gives a much stronger cord for gathering fullness into fabrics. (Fig.75) Once the gathers have been stitched in place, the cord can be pulled out in order to eliminate Pattern - M Length - 2 Width 3—4 Needle Position - M Feed Dog - High Pressure - 5 Foot - Embroidery bulk. (Fig.76) Lace Application .
IX. 81 Buttonholes Various fabrics require various methods of sewing buttonholes. Four different methods are given below, with suggested uses. If you are in doubt as to which method is best for vour fabric, test the methods in question and choose the best according to the finished appearance. , preparation For the best results, a good quality mercerized cotton thread should be used. Polyester threads often result in puckered or heavy unattractive buttonholes.
3. 4 With the needle up select the third buttonhole picture on the pattern selector dial. Sew a few stitches to bartack. (rig. 85-1 85-1 Step 3) .,. . With the needle out of the fabric, turn ' to the final buttonhole picture on the pattern selector dial and complete he riaht side of the buttonhole. White nylon slide will run into cardboard so you cannot go beyond first bar tack. (Fig.so 1 Step 4) To lock the stitches, make sure the needle is out of the fabric and set width at 0. 5.
L I’attcrn - M Lcnuth - '4 -'4 Width -- 2'2-5-2'2-5Needle Position — L Feed Dog ^ High Pressure — 5 Foot — Buttonhole Uli i iOiilUhC Cording gives a reinforced raised buttonhole. It is excellent for use on bulky, woven fabric, or knits in which the stitching often gets buried and makes cutting difficult. On knits, a corded buttonhole will help keep the fabric from stretching out of shape. Choose a heavy cotton crochet thread or buttonhole twist to use for cording.
Applications of the Blind Hem Stitch X. Hemming The blind hem stitch provides a durable hem finish that is almost invisible on garments drapes, and curtains. It is done easily with straight or slightly curved hems, ^ith a littk practice it will be a very quick and easy hem application and the hem will never need Pattern - <1 Length - 2 Width - 2-3 Needle Position - M Feed Dog - High Pressure - 5 Foot - All Purpose repairing. Procedure; .
Pattern Length - ‘/2-I Width ^ 5 Needle Position — M Feed Dog High Pressure — 5 Foot — All Purpose Shell Tuck The blind hem stitch gives a very effective and easy way to make a shell tuck for lingerie, pillowcases, and decorative finishes. (Fig.95) This works well on knits or on the bias of soft, woven fabrics.
. f-f-. 97 . o \j t H t c i v i u i t L I p i C O t i L U I l ¿ L i y Z d y Overcasting The multiple stitch zigzag is an excellent choice for overcasting. (Fig.97) It keeps the fabric flat and prevents raveling. For most fabrics, this stitch is better than the zigzag stitch for overcasting. Pattern - 7: Length - '/;-l Width - 5 Needle Position ^ M Feed Dog - High Pressure - 5 Foot - All Purpose The stitch should fall right at the raw edge of the fabric.
rail cm ' .. Length - m - 1 Width — 5 Needle Position ^ M Feed Dog ^ High Pressure — 5 Foot - All Purpose 103 102 'j.' -t,' f■-■ r-is. Vi^. /.V-'i '■ 'r^"; ■: ■^1 ' Applying elastic to lingerie or soft knit fabrics is easy when using the multiple stitch zigzag. Cut the elastic 2 inches smaller than your waist measurement. Overlap the raw ends to form a circle and stitch with a tiny zigzag to form a box as shown. Fold the elastic into quarters or eighths and mark with pins.
Seams This stitch gives a finished % inch seam in one step. For knits, it gives strength and elasticity to the seams and prevents the curling of the fabric that often occurs with 5/8 inch opened seams. It is most applicable to soft, thin knits such as nylon or acetate knits, but may be used on other fabrics as well. Always make Pattern — Length - 4 Width - 5 Needle Position -- M Feed Dog - High Pressure — 4 or 5 Foot - .4.
Pattern - XiiX Length - 4 Width - 5 Needle Position — M Feed Dog - High Pressure — 5 Foot — All Purpose 109 110 formed off of the fabric to provide a very strong seam with only a tiny seam allowance. Pull the seam open from the right side until the “rungs” of the ladder appear. The “rungs” become a decorative accent if a contrasting thread is used. On fake fur, the nap can be pulled up with a needle to hide the stitches and create an invisible seam. .
Xlll. Applications of the Straight Stretch Stitch Seams 115 Tlus stitch may be used on knits and wovens (Fig. 115), in areas of stress as a reinforcement stitch. It is excellent for curved seams such as armholes and crotch seams. For active wear such as ski pants and girdle fabrics which endure a lot of stress in bending and stretch ing, this stitch may be used for seaming throughout the garment.
120 Twin Needle Sewing Effects To use a twin needle in the machine, remove the single needle, and insert the twin needle into clamp with the flat side 121 to the back. (Fig. 120) Threading of the machine needle is the same as when using a twin normal with these exceptions: (Page 9) 1. Place thread, matching or contrasting m color, on each spool pin. and put spool 2. 3. caps in place. Hold both threads together as you follow through thread guides as normal, but separate the threads at the tension.
Yarn and Cord Sewing Pearl cotton and lightweight baby or mending yams can be used on the bobbin. Simply wind cord or yam on the bobbin in the usual manner (see page 5). By pass the tension, by threading the cord or yarn through the hole on the hook as illustrated. (Fig. 126) Bring up bobbin cord or yam as usual. Select the desired stitch and sew with the right side of the fabric down against the needle plate. Top tension may have to be adjusted slightly.
XVI. Additional Sp»:ial Accessories 132 134 133 135 Roller Foot Ideal for use on vinyls, imitation leathers, jerseys, synthetics and velvets. This foot helps keep both layers of fabric feeding the same. On very slippery fabrics, the roller foot helps prevent skipped stitches. (Fig. 132) Overcast Foot Zigzag overcasting may tend to roll the edge of some fabrics causing a bulky edge. The overcast foot helps to produce a flat edge.
XVII. Care and Maintenance of Your Sewing Machine 1. Changing Needles Always use the correct type of needle a. b. c. e. 3. for your machine. Always use the appropriate size needle for the thread and fabric you are using. Always change the needle after every other garment. Needles dull easily and when dull will damage both your fabric and your machine. Always put needle in machine cor rectly. It will cause stitches to be skipped if it is inserted incorrectly.
Using a sewing machine oil, place a single drop on each oiling point as illustrated, specifically those points marked in red on your machine. (Fig. 140) Run the machine to allow the oil to penetrate. After you have finished oiling the machine replace the bobbin case by placing case into the machine and pushing toward the left until the grooves fit. (Fig. 141) Place the screw driver to the right of the black bracket and force it toward the left and down.
1. Skipped stitches Skipped stitches have become a problem in recent years, especially with the appearance of knit fabrics and polyester threads on the market. Skipped stitches normally can be traced to four basic causes: A. The Needle ( ) The needle is dull or bent. Change it. (2) The needle is placed incorrectly in the needle clamp. It is either backwards or the height is wrong. (3) The wrong type of needle is being used for the fabric.
Tliread Breaking A. Machine improperly threaded. B. Thread is caught in a slit of the spool or under the spool. Thread is dry or of poor quality. Tension is too tight. Starting the machine with take-up lever in the wrong position. Always start and end sewing with take-up lever in highest position. F. Needle is bent, blunt, or has a bunon it. G. Needle is not inserted correctly. H. Thread is too coarse for needle being used. I. Needle plate has been nicked by the needle, thus is sharp and cuts the threads.
INDEX Page . .............. 3,34 Accessones ................................................................................................................. p Adjusting for the Fabric .................................................................................................................. “ Adjusting the Stitch...........................................................................................................................P All Purpose Foot.................................................
Parts Identification.......................................................................................................................... j_ 2 Patching ........................................................................................................................................... 27 Pattern Selector Dial ...................................................................................................................... 1 1 Pinning ...........................................................
41
42
