i:i /_ ELG IN MODEL I 015
CONTENTS NAMES OF PARTS • ACCESSORIES BEFORE SEWING Detaching Extension Table Connecting Foot Controller and Power Cord Changing Foot Changing Needle Bobbin Winding Inserting Bobbin Adjusting Lower Tension Drop Feed Lever Threading Upper Thread Twin Needle Threading Decorative Tucks or Designs Drawing Up Lower Thread Foot Pressure Fabric, Thread and Needle Table Pattern Setting STRAIGHT SEWING Pattern Selection Dial Stitch Length Dial Double Presser Foot Lifter Cloth Guide Adjusting Thread Tension Applicati
STANDARD SEWING EQUIPMENT CORP. No. Record in space provided below the Serial ce. applian this and Model No. of The Serial No. is located Rear of arm. The Model No. is located Rear of arm. Serial No.__________________________ Model No.1015 Retain these numbers for future reference.
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1.NAMES OF PARTS 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 •10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 Thread guide for bobbin winding Take-up lever Upper thread tension dial Face cover Foot pressure lever.
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3. BEFORE SEWING Machine is stored in flat-bed style which makes your work easier in ordinary sewing. Detaching Extension Table Push lock lever to left. Open extension table in direction of arrow. Shde it off and the machine is used as a free-arm model. Free-arm is convenient to sew or embroider; trousers, sleeves, cuffs of T-shirts, blouses, etc. Do vice-versa of above steps to attach extension table.
_________ Connecting Foot Controller and Power Cord Connect foot power cord controller and Before plugging in your machine, be sure that voltage is same as that of your machine. (written on a plate at back of machine) * Specifications vary from country to country. Switch on power to put on machine and turn on sewing light. Always switch off or unplug machine when not in use. The more you press foot controller, the faster the machine runs. —5— -. ..
Changing Foot Raise presser foot lifter highest the Set needle in position by turning handwheel towards you © 0 Remove foot by loosening screw with screwdriver. Replace new foot and tighten screw.
__________ _____ Changing Needle Set needle in the highest position by turning handwheel towards you. Loosen needle clamp screw and take out needle. With flat face away from you, insert a new needle into groove of needle bar. Push needle until it reaches stopper ® and tighten needle clamp screw firmly. Always use a straight needle with a sharp point.
Bobbin Winding Set needle in the highest position by turning handwheel towards you. Open shuttle cover. Open latch of bobbin case and take it out. Close latch of bobbin case and bobbin comes out easily.
Push back to fold handle. Pull out spool pin. Put a spool on spool pin. Draw thread from spool pin through thread guide and pre tension device, following numb ) and (. ers Wind thread clockwise around bobbin several times. Push bobbin on to spindle. Holding handwheel with your left hand disengage handwheel by unscrewing stop motion knob.
Push bobbin to right and press down foot controller. automatically stops Machine when winding is full. Push bobbin to left. Take off bobbin from spindle and cut thread. Retighten stop motion knob. If bobbin is wound unevenly as shown, open face cover and loosen set-screw of the guide for bobbin winding, by using screw driver and adjust height. trouble —4 correction —10-- ------:•-- ‘- ::-..c-------• - : : ‘ - --.
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_____ ____ _____ _____ Adjusting Lower Tension To test bobbin tension, hang and shake bobbin case as shown. At proper tension bobbin case will gradually drop a small amount To adjust tension, turn adjusting screw with small screwdriver Raise needle position. in the highest Leave end of thread of about 1 0 cm (4”) from bobbin case. Take hold of latch and push bobbin case into hook. Release latch when bobbin case is fully inserted. Drop Feed Lever The lever is on right side of hook.
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Twin Needle Threading Thread normal points in the same way threading, except ® and ;. as at , pass threads sepa At point ratly ‘to right and left of tension , disc. At guide ©, pass one of threads to right guide and the other at left guide. At point ), thread from right guide should be lead to right needle eye, and from left guide to left needle eye. Leave ends of threads of about 15 cm (6”). Decorative Tucks or Designs Any stitch can be used with the twin needle for decorative effects.
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e abric,Thread and Needle Tabl NEEDLE THREAD REMARKS Cotton Cotton Cotton Covered Polyester, Silk, Nylon 70 60 Silk Nylon 65—70 9 SHEER, Blouse Crepe, Lawn, Organdy, Taffeta 50—70 60 Silk Nylon 65--70 9 LIGHT-WEIGHT; Crepe, Wool, Brocade, Velvet MEDIUM; Wool, Silk, Linen, Velvetten, PIque, FailIe, Terrycloth 30 50 Silk 75—80 11 30 50 Silk 80—90 1 1—14 HEAVY; Denim, Duck, Sailcloth 30 Heavy Duty CCPoIy. 100 16 EXTRA HEAVY, Upholstery, Canvas. Awning 30 Heavy Duty C.
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4. STRAIGHT SEWING Set machine as shown. Pattern Selection Dial Turn dial to choose pattern. Dial can be turned either to right or to left. * Always make sure needle is in the highest position when operating dial. Stitch Length Dial 01234 Set dial at indicating point according to stitch size required. For a longer stitch, turn dial downwards. For a shorter stitch, turn it upwards. I it For normal sewing between 2 and 3. is set it .
1 Place fabric under foot about edge. the inside cm (0.4’) Lower presser toot lifter. Double Presser Foot Lifter In order to obtain wider gap when using very thick materials, firmly push presser foot lifter up as far as it will go. To reinforce seam, sew back wards to the edge of fabric by pushing reverse sewTng button. Release button and commence forward sewing guiding fabric by hand as it is ted. Never pull material.
Cloth Guide Use cloth guide when sewing a long seam of regular distance from edge of material. Set guide in hole on arm, at right of needle plate, and adjust distance. Run machine with edge of fabric touching guide. Position cloth guide at an angle to sew a curved seam. Sew reverse stitches for rein forcement at end of seam. Draw fabric to left when sewing is finished Cut threads with thread cutter behind presser bar.
Applications of Straight Stitch A. Seams The normal stitch length for most fabrics is 3, but the length chosen should depend on the fabric and area of usage. Usually, heavier fabrics require longer stitches, and lighter weight fabrics require shorter stitches. Forcurved seams and bias cut areas use a shorter stitch length to add strength and elasticity to the seam. B. Basting/Topstitching Sewing a seam with a longer stitch is useful for temporary seams prior to fitting.
5. ZIGZAG SEWING Set machine as shown. To prevent seam ends unravefl ing, set machine for straight stitch and sew in reverse at beginning and ending of seam. Zigzag Width Control Set control at required number. Larger the number, wider the stitch. Set it at 0 for straight sewing. Make sure needle is in upper position when you set control. Needle Position Control Straight stitch Position f7N\ 0 width 2.5) Left position Jon sewing.
6. MAKING BUTTONHOLES Set machine as shown. Determine Length marking Measure diameter and thickness of button and add 0.3cm (1/8”) for bar tacks. Mark buttonhole size on material. 1 60 I length of a buttonhole Determine Width Determine width according to diameter of button, its thickness, and kind of material. Attach buttonhole foot. Completely push back sliding part of buttonhole foot.
Bar tacking: Set pattern selection dial to 1 ( ) and sew 5-6 stitches. F1 LL Left sde: Change pattern to 2 ). Sew left side from front to back until it reaches end line. J . I Remember the point where arrow shows so that it is not necessary to mark end lines for all button holes. I Bar tacking: Change pattern to 3 ) and sew 5-6 stitches. Right side: Change pattern to 4 j ) and sew right side until it catches first bar tack.
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9. OVERLOCKING Overlocking stitches make it possible to sew and overcast seams at the same time. Set machine as shown. a For medium, thin material 5 For medium, thick material Put two pieces of cloth together with right sides facing ,and sew. To prevent edges from fraying, sew so that right side stitches drop outside the edge of material. In some cases overlocking used for be can stitches Overcasting.
Application of Ultra Stretch Stitch 14 A. Seaming On most knits, a 3/1 6 inch finished seam, such as stitch and overcast or the overlock stitch, is more desirable than a 5/8 inch opened seam allowance. These stitches can create a neater, more profes sional finish, eliminate bulky seams prevent curling, permit the gar ment to “give” under stress, and at the same time they cut down on the amount of work involved in making a garment.
Application of Rick-Rack [\\v,A\v/Jj A. Topstitching/Rick-Rack A decorative topstitch can be produced with the rick-rack stitch. Stitch around the structural lines of the garment for a special effect. Topstitch braid or a deco rative inset to add an additional creative flair. j \P 4\4g B. Tapering/Rick-Rack The rick-rack stitch may be tape red to form creative stems and petals of flowers, embroidered pictures and wall hangings.
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11. STRETCH SEAMS A ball-point needle is essential. Paper may be laid under knits for smoother feeding. Medium-weight fabrics double knit, jersey, ® Apply elastic triple stitch. ® Light-weight fabrics Apply small zigzag. Reduce upper and lower thread tension. .) For Very elastic fabrics spandex (power net) Use lapped or abutted seam. Apply multiple zigzag.
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13. SHELL STITCHING Silk, nylon organdy or smlar sheer fabrics are suitable. Set machine as shown. Fold edge of material. With folded edge to left, place it under presser foot. Pull thread ends towards back when starting sewing, Make sure needle misses raw edge of fold when it moves side ways.
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15. SCALLOPING Set machine as shown. Put two pieces of cloth together with right sides facing, and sew. Trim edge 0.3 cm (1/8”) away from stitching. Make notches on seam edge at evenly spaced intervals. Turn two pieces to right sides out. Bring stitching line to very edge by pushing seam edge gently with your fingers, and press. —38.. — Z.4’ :-:- . ..•.• .
________ 16. MENDING Patching Set machine as shown. Place the patch over the worn part. Sew along the edge of the patch on the right side. Trim away the worn part close to the seam on back side. r- A A A A V A in mm V V V A V V A A A In/mi m/.m A V V.. S A A A A A A A A A A /L.P,I,m,I,i,//U/UiUIIf —A V V V A A V A V V Mending a Rip Set machine in the same way as for patching. Sew the edges of tear together first. Then sew two more seams on either side.
Darning Set machine as shown. Stretch fabric over the hoop ® or sew with free arm®.according to the part you are going to darn. Sew over the worn-out part with closely spaced, stiches guiding material back and forth by hand. By making turning points blunt, the darned part becomes softer and more flexible.
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- 18. EMBROIDERY Set machine as shown. Remove foot, and holder screw. To avoid lower thread being pulled up, reduce upper thread tension. Needle For good embroidery, it is important to use correct needles and thread. Thread No. 9 120— 100 No. 11 100—80 No. 14 60—50 Use thin embroidery silk for upper thread and a thinner silk of same kind and color for lower thread. Trace your design on material and center it in embroidery hoop. Make sure material is taut.
19. MAINTENANCE Your machine requires regular cleaning and oiling for satis factory sewing performance. A machine which is used for a few hours a day needs to be cleaned and oiled once a month. Cleaning Remove foot and needle. Remove needle plate. Brush off all dust and lint on feed dog with cleaning brush. Turn latches outwards. Remove hook race cover. Remove hook. Clean hook race with a cleaning brush and a soft cloth.
Oiling Use oil manufactured specially for sewing machine use. Other cause eventually will oils mechanism to jam. Apply one drop of oil to part of hook where friction occurs. Open face cover and apply oil in the same way. Be careful not to apply too much oil or it may stain your material and cause some sewing difficulty. After oiling, run machine for 1-2 minutes to allow oil to penetrate to every part. J Remove top cover by loosening and screws with large screwdriver.
20.TROUBLE CHART Breaking lower thread CORRECTION PROBABLE CAUSE PROBLEM Thread not wound evenly on the bobbin or not drawn up correctly P.1 2 Lower thread tension too tight Lint stuck in the bobbin case and inside the tension spring Skipping stitches Irregular stitches The material not fed correctly P.10, P.15 Remove lint and fluff with a cleaning brush Needle not fully inserted P. 7 Needle bent P.
[0BLEM The material puckers PROBABLE CAUSE Upper or lower thread tension too tight P12, P20 Stitch too long for material P.1 7 Thread too thick P.1 6 Incorrect threading of upper or lower thread Dreaking needle CORRECTION P.13, P.1 1 Needle not correctly inserted P. 7 Needle bent P. 7 Needle clamp screw too loose P. 7 Upper thread tension too tight P.20 Needle too fine for the material P.16 Dials and levers have been changed while the needle was down in the material P 18 P 22 .
