Class 99 & 99K Sewing Machines Instruction Manual Table of Contents | Next Page
Class 99 & 99K Table of Contents Instructions for Operating the Machine Instructions for Using the Attachments Electrical Information Remove and Replace Light Bulb Operate Electrically Operate by Hand Treadle Operation Protection Against Rust Damage To Oil the Machine and Stand Needle Size Chart To Set the Needle Upper Threading To Remove the Bobbin To Wind the Bobbin To Replace the Bobbin To Prepare for Sewing To Start Sewing To Turn a Corner Basting To Sew Bias Seams To Remove the Work To Regulate Lengt
Class 99 & 99K ELECTRICAL INFORMATION The Singer electric motor is located at the back of the machine, and can be supplied for operation on alternating or direct current. Orders must state the catalogue number of the motor, or the voltage, and in the case of alternating current, the number of cycles. Before inserting electrical plug, be sure that voltage and number of cycles stamped on motor nameplate are within range marked on electric meter installed by electric power company.
Class 99 & 99K To Remove Bulb Grasp light socket so that thumb extends over switch V. Press shade with thumb at U. to release shade from two catches, and slide it halfway out of shade holder W. Press bulb into socket and at same time, turn bulb over from machine as far as it will go to unlock pin X (see Figs. 3 and 4). Withdraw the bulb. To Insert New Bulb Press bulb into socket and turn it over toward machine until pin X enters notch in socket (see Fig. 3).
Class 99 & 99K If the Machine is Electrically Operated Raise presser foot Q by means of presser bar lifter R to prevent injury to the foot Q and feed T. Place a piece of material under presser foot and let the foot down upon it. Turn on electric current and, if the combination knee and foot controller is installed as a knee controller, press knee lever to the right. If controller is placed on the floor to be used as a foot controller, press down on pedal of controller.
Class 99 & 99K If the Machine is Hand Operated When the machine is uncovered, the hand attachment will be found to be out of working position as shown in Fig. 6. Pull the small spring stud 2, and turn the handle back until leer 1, enters the socket 3. Press back the hinged finger 4, Fig. 7 between the spokes of the wheel. The machine is now ready for working as shown in Fig. 7. NOTE.
Class 99 & 99K If the Machine is Treadle Operated Loosen the hand wheel by turning motion screw L, Fig. 16, over toward you, place both feet upon the treadle and turn the hand wheel over toward you, at the same time allowing the feet to move freely and lightly with the motion of the treadle. Continue to do this until a regular and easy movement is acquired and you are able to work the treadle so that you can re-start the machine with the wheel turning toward you.
Class 99 & 99K Protection Against Rust Damage Lint and fluff, if not removed prior to storage will, during humid periods, absorb and hold moisture, and thus accelerate rust damage to highly polished thread handling and other exposed parts. The extend of rust damage would depend upon the length of time the machine remained in idle storage where there is no ventilation.
Class 99 & 99K To Oil the Machine and Stand If the machine is used continuously, it should be oiled daily. If moderately used, an occasional oiling is sufficient. Apply one drop of oil at teach of the places indicated by the unlettered arrows in Figs. 9, 10 and 12 and carefully clean the machine to insure smooth and satisfactory performance. Oil holes are provided in the machine for bearings which cannot be directly reached. Remove face plate D, Fig.
Class 99 & 99K To oil the parts underneath the bed of the machine, turn the machine back on its hinges and apply oil to the oil holes and bearings indicated in Fig. 12. To oil the stand, apply a drop of oil to the centers upon which the band wheel and treadle work, and to both ends of the pitman rod connecting the treadle with the band wheel. After oiling, run the machine rapidly for a few minutes so that the oil may reach the bearings.
Class 99 & 99K Needles and Thread For perfect stitching, thread should be selected according to fabric to be stitched, and needle must be correct size for thread which must pass freely through eye of the needle.
Class 99 & 99K To Set the Needle Select the correct needle according to the table on page 11. Be sure that the needle is not blunt or bent. Raise the needle bar to its highest position and loosen thumb screw H, Fig. 13 in needle clamp. Push needle with its flat side toward the right up into needle clamp as far as it will go, then tighten the thumb screw H. A screwdriver slot is provided for stronger clamping of needle, required for attachments driven from needle clamp hub.
Class 99 & 99K UPPER THREADING See Fig. 14. Place spool of thread on spool pin. Raise take-up lever 5 to its highest point.
Class 99 & 99K To Remove the Bobbin Raise needle to its highest point. Draw slide plate to the left. Press bobbin ejector J, Fig. 15, to raise bobbin for easy removal.
Class 99 & 99K To Wind the Bobbin Hold the hand wheel K, Fig. 16, with left hand and with right hand loosen stop motion screw L to disengage stitching mechanism. Place empty bobbin on bobbin winder spindle, see Fig. 16. Turn bobbin until hole in right side engages pin in spindle. Press bobbin winder downward until latch M, Fig. 17, engages. In this position latch will hold bobbin in place. Place spool of thread on spool pin 1. Draw thread through guide 2 on arm of machine.
Class 99 & 99K Fig. 17 shows bobbin winder in position for winding. When sufficient thread has been wound the winder is automatically released. Remove filled bobbin from bobbin winder spindle and re-tighten stop motion screw L, Fig. 16. If thread does not wind evenly on bobbin, loosen screw which holds thread guide 3, Fig. 16. Turn guide to left if bobbin winds high on right. Turn guide to left is bobbin winds high on left. When guide is properly centered, thread will wind evenly across bobbin.
Class 99 & 99K To Replace the Bobbin Hold the bobbin between the thumb and forefinger of the left hand, with the thread leading on top from the right toward the left, as shown in Fig. 18. Place bobbin into the bobbin case and draw the thread into the slot 1, Fig. 19 in the bobbin case, as shown. FIG. 18 Replacing the Bobbin Draw the thread backward between the bobbin case and the tension spring until it reaches the notch 2, Fig. 20, then pull the thread toward the right as shown in Fig. 20.
Class 99 & 99K To Prepare for Sewing Have the thread take-up lever at its highest position. With the left hand hold the end of the needle thread, leaving it slack from the hand to the needle. Turn the hand wheel over toward you until the needle moves down and up again to its highest point, thus catching the bobbin thread. Draw up the needle thread and the bobbin thread will come up with it through the hole in the throat plate as shown in Fig. 22. Fig.
Class 99 & 99K To Start Sewing Be sure to have thread take-up lever 5, Fig. 14 at its highest position. Place the material beneath the presser foot Q, Fig. 23, then turn the had wheel to bring the point of the needle into the material, then lower the presser foot by means of presser bar lifter R and start to sew. Some materials, such as soft finished sheers, nylons, jerseys, tricots and other elastic and sponge textiles, require a slight amount of assistance in feeding during sewing operations. Fig.
Class 99 & 99K To Turn a Corner Stop the machine when the needle eye, making its upward stroke, is still in the fabric. Raise the presser foot and turn the work as desired, using the needle as a pivot, then lower the presser foot and resume sewing. Basting The longest stitch, No. 6 on the stitch indicator plate, is satisfactory for basting and is easily removed by clipping every sixth stitch and withdrawing the long continuous thread. Machine basting is firmer, more even and much quicker than hand basting.
Class 99 & 99K To Regulate Length of Stitch The machine is adjustable to make from 6 to 30 stitches per inch, as indicated by the numerals on the stitch indicator plate. The "red dot" indicator U, Fig. 24, in the slot at the left indicates the stitch setting. To regulate the length of stitch, turn thumb nut V, Fig. 24, on lever away from the stitch indicator plate as far as necessary. Move the lever at V until the "red dot" indicator U is at the desired stitch setting.
Class 99 & 99K To Regulate Pressure on Presser Foot For ordinary sewing, the pressure of the presser foot on the material seldom requires changing. Heavy materials require more pressure than light weight materials. The pressure should be only heavy enough to prevent the material from rising with the needle and to enable the feed to move the work along evenly without side creeping. To increase the pressure, turn the thumb screw W, Fig. 25 clockwise or downward. To lighten the pressure, FIG.
Class 99 & 99K To Regulate Needle Thread Tension The tension on the needle thread can be tested only when the presser foot is down. The numerals "0" to "9" dial X, Fig. 29 indicate the different degrees of tension Fig. 29 To Regulate Needle Thread Tension that can be obtained. The numbers do not denote size of thread or amount of To increase tension, turn the thumb nut Z, Fig. 29 gradually to the right tension. (clockwise) until the required tension is When the tension has been correctly obtained.
Class 99 & 99K To Regulate Bobbin Thread Tension The tension on the bobbin thread is regulated by the screw A, Fig. 30 which is nearest the center of the tension spring on the outside of the bobbin case. To increase the tension, turn screw A over to the right. To decrease the tension, turn this screw to the left. When the tension on the bobbin thread has been once properly adjusted, it is seldom necessary to change it. A correct stitch can usually be obtained by varying the tension on the needle thread.
Class 99 & 99K To Adjust the Needle Thread Tension Lower the presser bar and turn the numbered dial X to bring the numeral "1" opposite the center line Y, Fig. 29 between the plus and minus signs on the tension indicator. Press the numbered dial inward as far as it will go, and turn the thumb nut Z until the pin engages one of the holes in the numbered dial. Turn the thumb nut, together with the numbered dial, to the left.
Class 99 & 99K line. A few stitches should now be made in the material and then examined to see if the stitch is properly locked in the material. If the bobbin thread shows on top, the tension on the bobbin thread should be increased. If the needle thread shows on the bottom, the tension on the bobbin thread should be decreased. A wide range material and threads can now be accommodated without further adjustment of the bobbin thread tension.
Class 99 & 99K Insert the forefinger of the left hand under the latch CC, Fig. 32, raise the latch just high enough to clear the edge DD and then move the latch toward you. Fig. 32 Raising the Bobbin Case Latch Under no circumstances must the screw EE be loosened. The loosening of this screw will change the clearance for the thread between the bobbin case and the bobbin position bracket.
Class 99 & 99K Hold the bobbin case between the forefinger and the thumb of the left hand as shown in Fig. 33. Tilt the bobbin case to the left and at the same time slightly turn the right or forked end toward you so that it is moved out of engagement with the sewing hook. Then tilt the bobbin case toward the right and remove it. Fig. 33 Removing the Bobbin Case To Replace Bobbin Case Operator Being at the Front of the Machine.
Class 99 & 99K To Replace Slide Plate Replace the slide plate from the right, as shown in Fig. 35, being careful to see that the two ends of the spring BB enter the grooves on the underside of the slide plate. Fig. 35 Replacing Slide Plate SEWING SUGGESTIONS Belt for Treadle Machine (99K29) The Belt should be only just tight enough not to slip. If too loose, shorten and rejoin. Breaking of Needles Might be Caused by: 1. Improper size of needle for thread and material -- see page 11. 2. Bent needle. 3.
Class 99 & 99K Breaking of Needle Thread Might be Caused by: 1. A knot in thread. 2. Improper threading -- see page 13. 3. Upper tension is too tight -- see pages 22 - 23. 4. Needle not pushed up as far as it will go into needle clamp -- see page 12. 5. Needle blunt or bent. 6. Thread too coarse for needle -- see page 11. 7. Roughened hole in throat plate. 8. Improper arrangement of threads to start sewing -- see page 18. Breaking of Bobbin Thread Might be Caused by: 1.
Class 99 & 99K Page 31 Table of Contents | Previous Page | Next Page
Class 99 & 99K THE FOOT HEMMER The foot hemmer forms and stitches a perfectly turned hem without basting or pressing. It is attached to the machine in place of the presser foot. Applications Fine hems Edging ruffles Sheer seams Hemming with Lace Lace insertion Lingerie finishes The Foot Hemmer Hemming ● Form a double 1/8" fold at the very edge of the fabric. ● Crease this fold for about 2". ● Draw the needle and bobbin threads under the hemmer.
Class 99 & 99K Hemming (cont') ● Stitch slowly for several inches until hem is well started. Hold thread ends in back of foot with the left hand and guide the raw fabric edge into the mouth of the scroll with the right hand. Even feeding is essential to good hemming. The same width of fabric must be kept in the scroll of the hemmer at all times. Hemmed Seams Hemmed seams are often substituted for French seams where a fine narrow seam is appropriate. ● Allow a scant 1/4" seam allowance.
Class 99 & 99K Hemming with Lace Most of the popular kinds of lace edging and insertion can be applied with the foot hemmer. It is an excellent way to trim children's clothes and to finish lingerie hems. Lace Applied over Hem ● Fold and start hem in usual way. ● Starting about 1 inch down from end of lace, place selvage under the needle, the lower the needle to hold lace firmly. ● Raise hemmer foot slightly and slip lace under back part of foot.
Class 99 & 99K THE BINDER The binder is used to apply commercial binding as well as self-fabric bias to an unfinished edge. This colorful trim is attractive when applied to children's wear, aprons and fabric furnishings. It is a practical finish for seam edges that ravel and for making bound seams. Inserting the Binding Pre-folded commercial bias binding is inserted from the right into the outside slot of the binder scroll. ● Cut the binding diagonally to form a long point.
Class 99 & 99K Adjustment and Operation of the Binder The edge to be bound is guided into the center of the scroll. Stitching is positioned close to the edge of the binding by adjusting the scroll portion of the attachment. ● Loosen the adjusting screw and move the scroll to the right to bring the stitching closer to the binding edge. For a wider adjustment, move the scroll to the left. Be sure that the screw is well tightened after making an adjustment.
Class 99 & 99K Binding Curved Edges Curved edges can be bound as easily as straight edges, but require slightly different fabric handling. Inside Curves Inside curves are straightened as they are fed into the binder. If the fabric is soft and has a tendency to stretch, reinforce the edge with a single row of stitching before binding. Outside Curves Outside curves tend to lead away from the center slot of the scroll and should be guided so that a full seam width is taken at the needle point.
Class 99 & 99K THE GATHERING FOOT Single or multiple rows of shirring can be quickly and expertly placed with the gathering foot. Evenly spaced shirring is insured as this foot is designed to lock fullness into every stitch. Applications The Gathering Foot Plain shirring Elastic shirring Waffle shirring Machine smocking Shirring Shirring is usually done on the crosswise grain of the fabric. Soft fabrics lend themselves to shirring better than firm fabrics.
Class 99 & 99K THE RUFFLER Occasionally apply a drop of oil to parts in movable contact. This attachment offers a simple and effective way to make gathered and pleated ruffles. Ruffles may be made separately or make and applied at the same time. The ruffler is attached to the machine in place of the presser foot. Adjusting Points 1. The adjusting lever sets the ruffler for gathers or pleats. The number 1 space setting is for gathers, and places fullness at every stitch.
Class 99 & 99K 3. The adjusting screw regulates the fullness of gathers or pleats. When turned in (clockwise) to its limit with the adjusting finger in place, the attachment is set for its deepest pleat. When turned out (counter-clockwise) to its limit and the adjusting finger out of action, the ruffler gives only a hint of fullness. Activating Parts The ruffling blade and the separator blade are of blue steel and hold the material to be gathered between them.
Class 99 & 99K Gathering (cont') ● Set stitch length to space the fullness. A short stitch gives more fullness than a long stitch. ● Insert material to be gathered between the blue blades and through the first separator guide. ● Lower presser bar and stitch. Always test the stitch length and ruffler setting on a scrap of self fabric before proceeding with the actual work. Forming and Attaching a Ruffle in One Operation: ● Place ruffle strip between the two blue blades and through the first separator guide.
Class 99 & 99K Pleating ● Move adjusting lever to space setting desired for pleats of either 6 or 12 stitches apart. ● Activate adjusting finger. ● For deepest pleat, turn adjusting screw in (clockwise) to its maximum. For shallower pleats, turn adjusting screw out (counter-clockwise). ● Set stitch length. A short stitch places pleats close together. A longer stitch separates the pleats for a greater distance. ● Insert fabric to be pleated between the blue blades and through the separator guide.
Class 99 & 99K THE SEAM GUIDE The seam guide is adjustable for spacing stitching at any distance between 1/8" and 1-3/8" from a fabric edge. It is used in connections with the presser foot. Applications Seams Stay stitchingTop stitching - single and multiple rows ● Attach the guide to the machine with the thumb screw in either of the threaded holes at the right of the needle. ● Adjust for width desired. ● For straight edges, align guide with the presser foot.
Class 99 & 99K THE ZIPPER FOOT The zipper foot is designed for accurate placement of stitches close to a raised edge. The hinged feature of this foot insures even feeding over pins, heavy layers of fabric or cross seams. It is attached to the machine in place of the presser foot, and may be adjusted to either side of the needle. The Zipper Foot Applications Zipper insertions Corded seams Tubular cording Slip cover welting Preparation ● Attach zipper foot to machine in place of presser foot.
Class 99 & 99K Skirt Zipper ● Machine baste placket opening of skirt and press this seam open. ● Attach zipper foot to machine in place of presser foot. ● Position zipper foot to right of needle. ● Open zipper. ● Place zipper face down on seam allowance with edge of teeth at seam line. ● Turn the back seam allowance away from body of skirt. ● Move foot to the left of needle. ● Close zipper and turn it face up. ● Smooth back the seam allowance at the edge of the zipper.
Class 99 & 99K Skirt Zipper (cont') ● Turn skirt to right side. ● Fold zipper to front of skirt. ● Pin in place from right side. ● Baste. ● Move foot from right side. ● Stitch across lower end of zipper and up to waistline. ● Remove basting. Corded Welting Cable cord comes in a variety of sizes and when covered with a firmly woven fabric makes a corded welting that is an excellent seam finish. This welting is prepared in advance and then stitched into the seam.
Class 99 & 99K Corded Seams The corded seam is a typical treatment for slip covers, children's clothes, blouses and lingerie. When cording a seam the zipper foot is usually adjusted to the right of the needle so that the bulk of the work will fall to the left. ● Attach corded welting to right side of a single seam edge, using same length stitch as used for welting (page 46). Guide edge of foot next to cord but do not crowd. ● Place attached corded welting over second seam edge, and pin or baste together.
Class 99 & 99K FASHION AIDS ...available for separate purchase at your local Singer Sewing Center. THE BUTTONHOLER This attachment produces neat and durable buttonholes in a great variety of fabrics without any special skill on the part of the operator. The buttonholes are produced in a fraction of the time required for hand work and they art firmer and more even than those made by hand.
Class 99 & 99K THE BIAS GAUGE The Bias Gauge is very useful (especially in the case of soft materials) when cutting bias strips from 7/16 inch to 1-3/8 inches in width. This is done by placing the bias gauge upon the point of the scissors and setting the blued indicator to the width desired. The line F is the point at which to set the blued indicator for facings, the line B for bindings, and the line C for cording or piping.
Class 99 & 99K THE EDGE-STITCHER The edge-stitcher provides a series of slotted guides which regulate the placement of stitches in relations to a fabric edge. It is attached to the machine in place of the presser foot. Applications Joining lace and insertion French seams Tucking with lace Straight and pin tucks Facing and seam finishes Seam piping Joining Lace and Insertion Lovely lingerie detail is simple to accomplish with the edge-stitcher by joining lace insertions or alternate bands of fabric and lace.
Class 99 & 99K Joining Lace and Insertion (cont') ● Place the second band (lace) into slot 4. ● Adjust pressure to correct degree of lightness for even feeding. ● Use a short stitch length and balanced tensions. ● Hold both band edges against the end of the slots while stitching. French Seams The edge-stitcher makes very fine French seams, so well adapted to sheer fabrics where raw seam edges must be concealed. ● Trim away seam allowances to ¼".
Class 99 & 99K Tucking (cont') ● Draw a single thread from the fabric, or measure from the selvage to locate the first tuck on the straight of the fabric grain. ● For succeeding tucks, crease fabric or draw a thread at distance desired from previous tuck. ● Press tuck folds before stitching. ● To make "pin" tucks, insert the tuck fold in slot 1 and adjust lug A to locate stitching a pin width from the fold. ● To make 1/4" tucks, insert the tuck fold into slot 5, and move lug A to its extreme left position.
Class 99 & 99K THE ADJUSTABLE HEMMER To make hems from 3/16 to 15/16 inch wide. 1. Attach adjustable hemmer to presser bar in place of presser foot. 2. Pull up bobbin thread as instructed on page 18. 3. Loosen thumb screw on hemmer and move scale until pointer registers with number of desired width of hem. (No. 1 indicates the narrowest hem and No. 8, the widest.) Then tighten thumb screw. 4. Place cloth in hemmer and draw it back and forth until hem is formed as shown. 5.
Class 99 & 99K THE TUCKER The Tucker is a time-saver for making tucks up to one inch in width. Two adjustable scales are provided, the smaller near the needle is numbered 1 to 8, expressing in eighths of an inch the width of the tuck. The larger scale expresses in quarter inches the spacing between tucks. Set the tuck scale for the width of tuck. The space scale is then adjusted using the needle as an indicator for the spacing between tucks. When both scales are set at the same number, blind tucks result.
Class 99 & 99K DARNING OR EMBROIDERING While darning and embroidery can be done on the machine when threaded for regular sewing, the use of feed cover plate Y, No. 32622, is recommended, as movable contact with the feed in some cases might interfere with the handling of the work. Don not change the adjustment of the feed dog in any way, as it is essential that its position should remain as originally fixed.
Class 99 & 99K Darning or Embroidering (cont') To attach the feed cover plate, draw to the left the slide that covers the bobbin case and insert the downwardly projecting hoods on the cover plate under the edge of the throat plate and push it to the right.
