Copyright (6; 1979 THE SiNGER COMPANY Al! fights reserved throughout the world
CONTENTS Page Chapter 1. Getting î© Know Your l^achlne......................................................................... .................................................. 2 Principal Parts................................................................................................................................................... 2 Accessories . . ... ......................... ................................................................................ ..... 3 Chapter 2.
« principai parts 1. Pattern Group Selector 12. Sewing Light .......215 Power and Light Switch 2. Stitch Width Selector 13. Extension Bed _22««SeiiJtoL,Conneetions 3. Bobbin Winder Tension 14. Genera! Purpose Needle and Speed Controller 23. hiachine Plug Receptacle 4. Take-up Lever 5. Pressure Dial 15- Feed 6. Meedle Clamp 16. Bobbin Case Holder ?. Thread Cutter 17. Transparent Bobbin 26. Stitch Balance Control .....—-DiaJ------------- 8. Prosser Foot Lifter 15. Siide Plate ,._26«-Mand.».
accessories The accessories that come with your sewing machine are designed to help you do many kinds of sewing easily. 1. Transparent Bobbins (No. 172336). 2. Needles ® Style 2020 in your machine when deliver» ed is for general sewing. ® Style 2045 is used for sewing knits, stretch fabrics and elastic. ® Style 2025 for twin-needle decorative stitching on woven and knit fabrics. 3. Bottonhofe Foot is used to make bar tack buttonholes of any length in four steps. 4.
Chapter 2« Getting Ready to Semi choosing and changing accessories CHANGING THE NEEDLE ® Raise needle to its highest point by turning the hand wheel toward you. Loosen needle clamp screw A and remove the needle. @ Insert new needle up into clamp B as far as it will go, with the fiat side of the needle to the back. Flat Side to Back ® Tighten needle clamp screw.
mmomuG amd replacimg needle PLATE ® Raise presser foot @ Raise needle to highest position. ® Open slide plate. Place thumb under right side of needle plate, lift It up and withdraw it to right. ® Replace needle plate under clamping pin A, push it gently to the left and press down until it snaps into place. ATTACHING SNAP-IN FEED COVER ® Raise presser foot. ® Raise needle to highest position by turning hand wheel toward you. Open slide plate.
FABRIC WEIGHT TABLE There are many types of fabrics around the world, each manufactured with a specific fibre and weight. The fabric below have been classified according to weight to give a small sample of what is available for purchase.
Refer to this table to determine the weight and type of fabric you will be using in order to select the correct needle and thread combination. For correct needle and thread combination for your fabric, refer to the Fabric, Thread and Needle Table on the following page. VERY HEAVY HEAVY MEnmm Velvet, Crepe de Chine, Shantung, Suiting, Brocade Velvet, Taffeta, Satin, Crepe Brocade, Taffeta, Satin, Crepe Velveteen, Corduroy, Velvet, Fleece, Velour, Terry, Chintz Corduroy. Denim.
FABRIC, THREAD AMD NEEDLE TABLE Choosing the correct needie and thread for your fabric is of utmost importance. Correct choice will make the difference in the wear and appearance of your new garment. The Fabric Weight Table on the previous page, and the Fabric, Thread and Needle Table below are practical guides Be sure to needle and thread selection, Refer to them before starting a sewing project.
Find the fabric you are using in Type of Fabric column at left (silk, rayon, etc.). Then locate the fabric weight column (filmy, sheer, etc.) for your fabric at top of table. Read across from Type of Fabric column to correct weight of fabric column. There, the correct thread and needle choice for your fabric will be found. Example: If you are sewing a medium weight wool, find wool in Type of Fabric column.
needle-fabric combinations Correct needle selection is closely related to stitch quality and appearance. Damaged fabric is almost always caused by a needle that is bent, burred or that is an inappropriate style for the fabric and thread you are using. The three types of needles most commonly used are the regular, ball point, and wedge. To obtain good results, the correct size and type of needle for the fabric and thread you are using must be chosen. Refer to the Fabric, Thread and Needle Table, page 8.
the bobbin thread Your sewing machine uses two threads to form a stitch. The upper thread comes from the spool and Is threaded through the eye of the needle. The lower thread comes from the bob bin. Wind the bobbin before threading the machine. WINDING THE BOBBIN Preparation Steps 1. Raise the presser foot and turn hand wheel toward you until needle is in highest po sition. 2. Loosen hand wheel knob A by turning it to ward you with the right hand while holding Hand wheel with the left hand. 3.
THREADING THE BOBBIN CASE 1. Hold bobbin so that thread unwinds in the direction shown, and put bobbin into bobbin case. 2. Pull thread into notch A, draw it back under the tension spring and back into slot B. 3. Draw approximately 10 cm (4 inches) of thread across the bobbin. 4. Close slide plate allowing thread to enter slot between the needle plate and slide plate.
threading the machine • Rai^ the presser foot to release tension discs and make sure needle and take-up lever are in highest position. Place spoof pin felt from accessories over spool pin, and place spool of thread on /. spool pin over felt, with spool thread re taining slit A on top. • • Thread the needle thread tension 3. Slide thread over metal plate into tension discs. Lead thread under needle thread tension and through tension wire by firmly pulling thread straight up.
RAISING THE BOBBIN THREAD Now that you have wound the bobbin and threaded the needle, raise the bobbin thread through the hole In the needle plate. 1. Hold needle thread lightly with left hand and turn hand wheel slowly toward you so that needle enters needle plate. 2. Continue turning hand wheel and hold ing needle thread until needle rises and brings up bobbin thread in a loop. 3. Undo the loop with your fingers. 4. Place both needle and bobbin threads under the foot and draw them to back of machine.
Chapter 3. Straight Stitching adjusting machine stitch to suit your fabric Before you move the selectors to set your machine for straight stitching, turn the hand wheel toward you until the needle is above the needle plate. SETTING SELECTORS *• • Set needle position selector at 1:1 • Set stitch width selector at • Set stitch length: . 5 - 4 to suit fabric REGULATING PRESSER FOOT PRESSURE The pressure dial regulates the pressure that the presser foot exerts on the fabric.
ADJUSTING STITCH LENGTH The stitch length dial controls the length of stitches. The numbers around the edge of the dial express stitch length in mm; the lower the number, the shorter the stitch. Generally, shorter stitches are best for lightweight fabric; longer stitches for heavy fabric. The area from 0 to 1 is used for the adjustment of zig-zag satin stitching (see page 21). Setting the Dial • Turn dial so that stitch length desired is positioned under T symbol.
sewmg a seam Needle Position; ® Stitch Width: ^I ® Stitch Length; To suit fabric ® General Purpose Needle Plate ® General Purpose Foot 1. Raise presser foot. Pull thread back under presser foot leaving at least 10 cm (4 inches) of thread. 2. Position needle approximately 1.2 cm (V'2 inch) from fabric edge. Then lower pres ser foot and backstitch almost to the edge of the fabric for reinforcement by stitching in reverse direction. For additional informa tion on reverse stitching refer to page 16.
applications DARNING ZIPPER INSERTION With Embroidery Hoop How the zipper is inserted m\\ depend on the type of the garment and the iocaiion of the zipper. With the adjustable zipper foot, you will find it easy to sew an even line of stitch" ing close to the zipper. The zipper foot can be used either to the left or right of the needle, depending on where the bulk of the garment is placed.
Chapter 4. Basic Zig-Zag Stitching adjusting machine stitch to suit your fabric You can do functional as well as decorative zig-zag stitching with your sewing machine. How to set selectors PATTERN GROUP SELECTOR Before moving sefector, make sure needle is out of the fabric. For plain zig-zag stitching: • Set stitch width selector on j (straight stitch) • Turn pattern group selector to / aligning number under T mark Left n Pattern Group Selector: / • Needle Position: Centre n J.
ADJUSTING NEEDLE THREAD TENSION Zig-zag stitching requires less needle thread tension than straight stitching. Make a test sample with the fabric and thread you plan to use so that you can adjust the tension properly. The stitches should lie flat against the fabric without causing the fabric to pucker. If the stitches are not flat and the fabric is puckered, lower the needle thread tension by turning the dial to a lower number.
satin stitching When you wish to produce a satin stitch make a test sample first so you can adjust stitch length and thread tension properly. Soft fabric may require a backing to ensure a firm stitch. Crisp organdy, iawn or a fusible interfacing are suitable for this purpose.
applications APPLIQUÉ Appliqué adds beauty and interest to clothing and household linens. You can create your own design, trace a simple outline from a colouring book, or use a motif cut from a printed fabric. Fabrics of similar or different textures combine equally well. A closely spaced plain zig-zag stitch is used for appliqué work. Although you may vary stitch width to accommodate fabric weave and texture, never allow the stitch to be too wide.
Lif^GERIE SEAMS To make a lingerie seam durable and flexible use the plain zig-zag stitch at a narrow width setting. This seam treatment is particularly suitable for bias seams. When seaming nylon tricot insert a 2045 needle in the machine before you begin to sew. ® Straight stitch the seam line on wrong side of fabric. ® Press both seam allowances in the same direction.
Setting selectors 3 3 mm\\\\\\\wiiii////////M I t t::i S 0 ili S § Decorailve Stitch Patterns 't* ¡■S 1 iI i-r y Stretch Stitch Patterns in addition to straight stitch and zig-zag stitch, your machine can produce a variety of stitch patterns.
SELECTING A PATTERN GROUP Before moving pattern group sure needle is above fabric. selector, make < When you rotate the pattern group selector, one of five different groups of stitch pattern is available to you. Slide stitch width selector to i , then rotate the pattern group selector as required, until the number of the desired group of two stitches is positioned under the T symbol above the selector. <: 1^ ADJUSTING WIDTH OF THE DESIGN Before moving stitch width raise needle above fabric.
AOJUSTIMG STITCH LENGTH When you are preparing to do pattern stitch ing, make a test sample with the fabric and thread you plan to use so that you can adjust the stitch length correctly. Any sitch length setting from 1 to 4 will give you an open stitch pattern of whichever de corative stitch pattern you select. The higher the number, the more open, or farther apart, your stitch will be. The area between 0 and 1 of the selector is used for the fine adjust ment of satin stitching (see page 21).
adjusting stitches to suit stretch fabrics GUIDING AND SUPPORTING FABRIC Most fabrics of stretch or knit construction need only to be guided in front of the presser foot when you use one of the stretch stitches. Some fabrics — nylon tricot and eiasticized fabrics, for example — do require support while being stitched. ® For nylon tricot and similar synthetic knits, apply gentle tension by holding the seam in front and back of the presser foot as you sew (illustration A).
STITCH PATTERN CHART The table below will help you to select the correct pattern for your fabric and sewing job. Pattern Stitoh Length \AA.AAA/W Where to use » * general purpose stretch sew;I5g tacks, finishing seams, em‘ 7Î..7r..!T?.; broidery and appliqué. .5-4 Zig-Zag ““V--------- V“ I i i Si 1 -2.5 For finishing hems and making ladder seams. Blindstitch M H H n n i' n n n n A n n A n A I I U if U if'.
applications ....V "\r...... V''''V" "V......V...."■V..V V..... V..... V.......................V' Í ...? BLINDSTITCH > f f > S The blindstitch has many practicar and functional uses. Its most common use < provides a durable hem finish. However, the creative ways that one might apply j this stitch are unending. < l........... ...A j\.......... . A A\„...,A..... ..A.............A......A...... A,..... /A...A...... ..A........A,...„A......A.... .
iiULTi-STITCH ZIG-ZAG The multi-stitch zig-zag is an extremely versatile stitch. Use it to mend, join or re inforce without bulk. With this stitch you may attach elastic and stretch lace, con struct lingerie and swimsuits and finish seams. There are many other useful applications for the mulii-stiich zig-zag. Bar Tacks ® Pattern Group Selector: 3 ® Needle Position; L. :Xi J ® Stitch Width: ; iTi i'ii ... ....
HONEYCOMB STITCH ■ \/\ The honeycomb stitch is ideal for smocking and it is useful for mending, overcast ing and attaching lingerie elastic, stretch lace and blanket binding. Use this ver satile stitch to create decorative designs on fabrics that stretch. Replacing Lingerie Elastic ® Pattern Group Selector; 3 ® Needle Position; . i®, iX: X ® Stitch Width: j:- .
Chapter §. Buttoriticileii and iluttons buttonholes ® Pattern Group Selector: / ® Stitch Balance Dial: Neutral position ® Buttonhole Foot B Always make a test buttonhole on a sample in your fabric. Be sure to duplicate thickness of garment and include interfacing. If the two lines of stitching in your sample are of unequal density refer to the next page.
FOUR-^STEP BUTTONHOLING (Confd.) Step 3: Bar Tack Step 4: Side Stitching Raise the needle above the fabric. Turn buttonhole dial clockwise to step 3. Take at least four stitches ending at point D. Raise the needle above the fabric. Turn buttonhole dial clockwise to step 4. Stitch until the side stitching meets the bar tack at point E. CHANGING STITCH DENSITY Stitch density on left and right sides of the buttonhole may be balanced by using the stitch balance dial.
buttons Pattern Group Selector: I • Needle Position; LX1 • Stitch Width: To suit button • Stitch Length: 0 • Snap-in Feed Cover • General Purpose Foot ATTACHING A BUTTON Flat buttons can be sewn on by machine using the zig-zag stitch. • Attach snap-in feed cover to general pur pose needle plate. 1. Set stitch width selector at «. • Set needle position at left • Place button positioned on fabric under foot and lower needle Into centre of left hole. • Lower presser foot.
Chapter 7. Twin - Needle Stitching The twin-needle simultaneously produces two parallel, closely spaced lines of pattern stitch ing. You can stitch with either one or two cor ours of thread. • Pattern Group Selector: Stitch desired • Needle Position; i A only • Stitch Width; ! i > § only^ • stitch Length; . 5 - 4 to suit fabric Procedure • Insert twin-needle. • Thread as for single-needle stitching, and through right eye of needle. • Attach detachable spool bobbin winder spindle.
Fabric handling, when sewing tubular and hard to reach garment areas, is simplified when you convert your sewing machine to free-arm sewing. ® To convert machine to free~arm sewing, simply lift the extension bed up and off the machine as illustrated. @ To convert machine back for flat bed sew ing, simply slide extension bed onto the base of the machine and snap into place. applications A few of the sewing jobs for which you will find the free-arm particularly useful are shown below.
Chapter 9. Performance Checklist Whenever sewing difficulty is encountered, review the sections of the instruction book that explain the operation you are performing to make sure you are using the machine correctly. If the problem still exists, the following checklist may help you to correct it. If you still have difficulties, call your nearest authorized Dealer. What To Do If: Needle Breaks Refer to Page: Make sure... • • • • Needle is fully inserted into needle clamp ..................................
Chapter 10. Caring For Your Machine CLEANING YOUR MACHINE CAUTION: Before cleaning your machine, dis connect power line plug from vour socket outlet. With a soft cloth or lint brush, clean all points indicated by arrows, especially the bobbin case area and feed. Also, clean exposed'parts. If necessary a mild solution of soap and water may be used to remove stubborn stains. No other cleaning liquid or powder should be used. Periodically apply a drop of oil only to the areas indicated after cleaning.
REMOVING FACE PLATE Loosen screw A (do not remove). Loosen face plate screw B then remove face plate by drawing it toward you. Re place face plate by sliding top edge of plate under edge of arm top cover. Tighten screws B and A. REPLACING SLIDE PLATE Place slide plate In slide way with the front edge close to, but not covering, the retain ing spring C. With a small screwdriver, lift each end of the spring into each of the side grooves on the under side of the slide plate.
Index Accessories...................................................... 3 Adjusting Stitches for Stretch Fabrics . . 27 Appliqué .......................................................... 22 Attaching a Button.................................. 34 Attaching Elastic...............................................31 Bar Tacks........................................................ 20 Blindstitch Hem Guide . . . . . . 3,5,29 Blindstitch Hems............................................ 29 Bobbin..................
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