f ii HIM SINGER 5144
•Copyright ® 1980 T. S. Co.
CONTENTS Page Chapter 1. Getting to Know Your Machine ............................................................................................................... 2 Principal Parts ............................ ........................................................................................................... 2 Accessories ............................................................................................................................................. 3 Chapter 2.
Chapter 1. Getting to Know Your Machine principal parts 1. Pattern Selector 10. Thread Cutter 19. Needle Clamp 2. Thread Guides 11. General Purpose Presser Foot 20. Electrical Connections Speed Controller 12. Sewing Light 21. Hand Wheel 3. Bobbin Winder Tension 4. Take-up Lever 13. Thread Guides 22. Hand Wheel Knob 5. Needle-Thread Tension Dial 14. Feed 23. Spool Holder 6. Face Plate 15. General Purpose Needle Plate 24. Bobbin Winder Spindle 7. Pressure Regulator 16.
accessories The accessories that come with your sewing machine are designed to help you do many kinds of sewing easily. 1. Transparent Bobbins (No. 541090) 2. Needles • Style 2020 is used for general sewing. • Style 2045 is used for sewing knits, stretch fabrics and elastic. 3. Buttonhole Foot is used to make bar tack buttonholes in four steps. 4. Zipper Foot for inserting zippers and stitching corded seams. 5.
Chapter 2. Getting Ready to Sew choosing and changing accessories CHANGING THE NEEDLE • Raise needle to its highest point by turning the hand wheel toward you. Loosen needle clamp screw A and remove the needle. • insert new needle up into clamp B as far as it will go, with the fiat side of the needle to the back. • Tighten needle clamp screw. CHANGING PRESSER FEET The general purpose foot is on your machine when delivered.
REMOVING AND REPLACING NEEDLE PLATE • Raise needle to highest position and raise presser foot. - 1 Remove screws A and B using a large screwdriver. Remove the needle plate by simply guiding it toward you. To replace needle plate, guide needle plate into position under the presser foot. Replace screws A and B using a large screwdriver and tighten securely. ATTACHING SNAP-IN FEED COVER • Raise needle to highest position by turning handwheel toward you. • Raise presser foot.
FABRIC WEIGHT TABLE There are many types of fabric around the world, each manufactured with a specific fibre and weight. The fabrics below have been classified according to weight to give a small sample of what is available for purchase.
Refer to this table to determine the weight and type of fabric you will be using in order to select the correct needle and thread combination. For correct needle and thread combination for your fabric, refer to the Fabric, Thread and Needle Table on the following pages.
FABRIC, THREAD AND NEEDLE TABLE Choosing the correct needle and thread for your fabric is of utmost importance. Correct choice will make the difference in the wear and appearance of your new garment. The Fabric Weight Table on the previous page, and the Fabric, Thread and Needle Table below are practical guides to needle and thread selection. Refer to them before starting a sewing project. Be sure to use the same size and type of thread in both needle and bobbin.
Find the fabric you are using in Type of Fabric column at left (silk, rayon, etc.). Then locate the fabric weight column (filmy, sheer, etc.) for your fabric at top of table. Read across from Type of Fabric column to correct weight of fabric column. There, the correct thread and needle choice for your fabric will be found. Example: If you are sewing a medium weight wool, find wool in Type of Fabric column.
operating the machine CONNECTING THE MACHINE • Before plugging in your machine, be sure the electrical information on the side of the machine A, below the hand wheel, agrees with the range marked oh your electrical meter. • To turn on the macnine, connect plug B to machine and plug C to your socket outlet. • To turn on the sewing light, press or turn switch D as required. See illustration. • To run the machine and control speed, press the speed controller E with your foot.
the bobbin thread Your sewing machine uses two threads to form a stitch. The upper thread comes from the spool and is threaded through the eye of the needle. The lower thread comes from the bobbin. Wind the bobbin before threading the machine. WINDING THE BOBBIN Preparation Steps 1. Raise the presser foot and turn hand wheel toward you until needle is in highest position. 2. Loosen hand wheel knob A by turning it toward you with the right hand while holding hand wheel with the left hand. 3.
REMOVING THE BOBBIN CASE When you prepare to sew, wind the bobbin first, then thread the machine. To Remove the Bobbin Case and Bobbin — • Turn hand wheei toward you to raise take-up iever to its highest position. 1. Open hook cover A as illustrated. 2. Grasp bobbin case latch B and withdraw bobbin case. • Release latch and bobbin will drop out of case.
REPLACING THE BOBBIN CASE t. Hold bobbin case by latch, with about 7.5cm (3 inches) of thread leading off top of case. 2. Align protruding finger A with slot B and sfide case on to stud C. • Release the latch and push case until it clicks into place. Allow 7.5cm (3 inches) of thread to hang free from bobbin case. • Close hook cover. Be sure thread does not get caught when hook cover is closed.
threading the machine • Raise the presser foot to release tension discs and make sure needle is in highest position. • Place spool of thread on horizontal spool pin, as Instructed on page 13. • Snap thread into thread guide post 1, as shown. • Snap thread into thread guide 2. • Pass thread through point 3. 14 • Thread the needle-thread tension 4. Slide thread over metal plate into tension discs. Lead thread under needle-thread tension and tension wire by firmly pulling thread up and over tp the right.
RAISING THE BOBBIN THREAD Now that you have wound the bobbin and threaded the needle, raise the bobbin thread through the hole in the needle plate.
Chapter 3. Straight Stitching adjusting machine stitch to suit your fabric Before you move the selectors to set your machine for straight stitching, turn the hand wheel toward you until the needle is above the needle plate. SETTING SELECTORS • Pattern Selector: 1 • Stitch Width: 0 • Stitch Length; 1.5-4 to suit fabric REGULATING PRESSER FOOT PRESSURE The pressure regulator adjusts the pressure that the presser foot exerts on the fabric.
ADJUSTING STITCH LENGTH The stitch length dial controls the length of stitches. The numbers around the edge of. the dial express stitch length in mm; the lower the number, the shorter the stitch. Generally, shorter stitches are best for lightweight fabric, longer stitches for heavy fabric. The area from 0 to 1 is used for the adjustment of zig-zag satin stitching (see page 22). Setting the Dial • Turn dial so that stitch length desired is posi tioned under ^ symbol.
sewing a seam • Pattern Selector: 1 • Stitch Width; 0 • Stitch Length: To suit fabric • General Purpose Needle Plate • Genera! Purpose Foot 1. Raise presser foot. Pull thread back under presser foot leaving at least 10cm (4 Inches) of thread. 2. Position needle approximately 1.3cm (1/2 inch) from fabric edge. Then lower presser foot and backstitch almost to the edge of the fabric for reinforcement by stitching in reverse direction. For additional information on reverse stitching refer to page 17.
applications ZIPPER INSERTION How the zipper is inserted will depend on the type of garment and the location of the zipper. With the adjustable zipper foot, you will find it easy to sew an even line of stitching close to the zipper. The zipper foot can be used either to the left or right of the needle, depending» on where the bulk of the garment is placed. Adjusting the Zipper Foot • Set machine for straight stitching. ® Attach the zipper foot as Instructed on page 4.
Chapter 4. Basic Zig-Zag Stitching adjusting machine stitch to suit your fabric You can do functional as well as decorative zig zag stitching with your sewing machine. setting selectors PATTERN SELECTOR Before turning selector, make sure needle is out ofjhe fabric. For plain zig-zag stitching: • Turn pattern selector to 1 aligning number with line on selector lever.
ADJUSTING NEEDLE-THREAD TENSION Zig-zag stitching requires iess needle-thread tension than straight stitching. Make a test sample with the fabric and thread you plan to use so that you can adjust the ten sion properly. The stitches should lie flat against the fabric without causing the fabric to pucker. If the stitches are not flat and the fabric is puckered, lower the needle-thread tension by turning the dial to a lower number.
satin stitching When you wish to produce a satin stitch, make a test sample first so you can adjust stitch length and thread tension properly. Soft fabric may require a backing to ensure a firm stitch. Crisp organdy, lawn or a fusible Interfacing are suitable for this purpose. Accessory and Selector Settings • Pattern Selector; 1 • Stitch Width; 1 -5 • Stitch Length; 0 to 1 • General Purpose Needle Plate • General Purpose Foot ADJUSTING STITCH LENGTH • Turn stitch length selector dial to 1.
applications APPLIQUÉ Appliqué adds beauty and interest to ciothing and household linens. You can create your own design, trace a simple outline from a coiouring book, or use a motif cut from a printed fabric. Fabric of simiiar or different textures combine equally well. A closely spaced plain zig-zag stitch, commonly referred to as a satin stitch, is used for appiiqué work. Aithough you may vary stitch width to accommodate fabric weave and texture, never aliow the stitch to be too wide.
Chapter 5. Machine Stitch Patterns setting selectors In addition to straight stitch and zig-zag stitch, your machine can produce a variety of stitch pat terns. There are two types of stitch patterns built into your machine: • decorative stitch pattern, illustrated above, is produced by side-to-side movement of the needle. • stretch stitch patterns, illustrated above, are produced by both the side-to-side movement of the needle and the back-and-forth movement of the feed.
SELECTING A PATTERN Before moving pattern selector, make sure nee dle is above fabric. When you turn the pattern selector, one of five stitch patterns is available tp you. Turn stitch width selector to 0, then rotate the pattern selector as required, until the desired stitch pattern number lines up with the mark on the pattern selector lever.
adjusting stitches to suit stretch fabric GUIDING AND SUPPORTING FABRIC Most fabric of stretch or knit construction need only to be guided in front of the presser foot when you use one of the stretch stitches. Some fabric — nylon tricot and elasticized fabric, for example —do require support while being stitched. • For nylon tricot and similar synthetic knits, apply gentle tension by holding the seam In front and back of the presser foot as you sew (illustration A).
applications 1^' -^/------------- "V“---------V-------- \T‘ -“V \T‘ "AT' BLINDSTITCH I The blindstitch has many practical and functional uses. Its most common use provides a ! durable hem finish. However, the creative ways that one might apply this stitch are > unending.
JJJJJJJJJJJII/ / III!IIIIIIIIIIIIII SLANT OVEREDGE STITCH Although the slant overedge stitch may be used creatively, it is primarily applied in finish ing seams, hems and facing edges. Use it to overedge seams that require stretch such as crotch seams. It is particularly helpful in ski suit, snowsuit and swimsuit construction.
Chapter 6. Buttonholes Your new machine comes complete with a built-in four-step buttonhole system. Before sewing on your garment, always make a test buttonhole duplicating the number of thicknesses of fabric and interfacing, if appropriate. BUTTONHOLE POSITION Accurate guidelines are essential to keep buttonholes at a uniform distance from the edge of the garment, evenly spaced and on the grain of the fabric. 1. Mark the centre line of the garment using hand basting or tailor's chalk.
2. Mark a position guideiine for each but tonhole. • Horizontal buttonholes A are placed to ex tend 3mm (1/8 inch) beyond the centre line of the garment C, so that the buttons will be in the centre of the figure when the garment is fastened. • Horizontal buttonhole guidelines should follow a crosswise fabric thread and be longer than the finished length of the but tonhole. • Mark ends of each buttonhole vertically.
FOUR-STEP BUTTONHOLING • Pattern Selector: As illustrated • Stitch Width: Red Area • Stitch Length: — (Coloured Bar) • General Purpose Needle Plate • Buttonhole Foot Preparation • Attach buttonhole foot to the machine. Refer to page 4 for additional Information on chang ing Presser Feet. 1. Raise presser foot lifter. Hold upper thread lightly with left hand and turn hand wheel slowly toward you until needle enters the plate. BE CAREFUL THAT YOU DO NOT RUN THE MACHINE DURING THIS PRO CEDURE.
FOUR-STEP BUTTONHOLING PROCEDURE 32 Step A: Side Stitching Step B: Bar Tack Turn pattern selector to buttonhole step A. With buttonhole foot properly positioned, as described on page 31 = position needie in fabric at point 1. Lower the foot and stitch until needle reaches the last red line on foot. Raise needle above the fabric by turn ing hand wheel toward you. Turn pat tern selector to the right to buttonhole step B. Take at least four stitches end ing at point 2.
Chapter 7. Twin-Needle Stitching The tw in-needle sim ultaneously produces tw o parallel, closely spaced lines of pattern stitch ing. You can stitch w ith either one or tw o col ours of thread. Twin-neMles No. 2024 must be purchased separately at your local Sewing Centre. • Pattern Selector: Stitch desired Procedure • Insert tw in-needle. • Thread as for single-needle stitching, except pass thread betw een centre and bacfr tension discs A, and through left eye of needle.
Chapter 8. Free-Arm Sewing Fabric handling, w hen sew ing tubular and hard to reach garm ent areas, is sim plified w hen you convert your sew ing m achine to free-arm sew ing. • To convert m achine to free-arm sew ing, sim ply lift the extension bed up and slide the extension bed off the m achine, as illustrated. • To convert m achine back to flat bed sew ing, sim ply slide extension bed onto the base of the m achine and snap dow n into place.
Chapter 9. Performance Checklist Whenever sewing difficulty is encountered, review the sections of the instruction book that ex plain the operation you are performing to make sure you are using the machine correctly. If the problem still exists, the following checklist may help you to correct it. If you still have difficulties, call your nearest Sewing Centre. What To Do If: Needle Breaks Refer to Page: Make sure... • • • • Needle is fully inserted into needle clamp ....................................
Chapter 10. Caring for Your Machine CLEANING AND OILING YOUR MACHINE B------- -e i(e) —A CAUTION: Before cleaning your machine, d/sconnect power line plug from your socket outlet. Periodically, depending on usage, clean and oil your machine as follows, using one drop of oil on areas indicated: ^A^ • Top Interior Areas To clean and oil top of machine, remove top cover. Using a large screwdriver, remove screws A and B. Periodically, apply a drop of oil only to areas indicated, after cleaning.
9 Bobbin and Feed Areas To clean and oil bobbin and feed areas, remove needle plate, as instructed on page 5. Using soft cloth or brush, clean and oil areas indicated by arrows. Replace needle plate, as instructed on page 5. • Exterior Areas If necessary, a mild solution of soap and water may be used on exterior areas to remove stubborn stains. No other cleaning liquid or powder should be used.
Index Accessories..................................... »........ .. 3 Appliqué ..................................................... .. 23 Blindstitch ................................... ............. . . 27 Bobbin........................ .............................. . 3 Winding .................. .......................... ». . 11 Bobbin Case — ............. ... ^ — . • 12, 13, 36 Removing ..........— .................... ............ 12 Threading...............................................
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