SINGER 15k 66k 201k 99k 185k 327k 328k 329k 404k A Manual of Family ng ines
PREFACE HE great aim in education is to equip the scholar for his or her future career. To the girl interested in household economics the Sewing Machine offers wonderful possibilities. The job of this booklet is to instruct her in the care and use of the family Sewing Machine so that she can use it to the best advantage.
GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE CARE AND OPERATION OF FAMILY SEWING MACHINES The Principal Parts of Lock Stitch Sewing Machines and Their Uses. ARM PRESSURE REGULATING SPOOL PIN Fig. 1. Prinxipal Parts of the Head. Head—the part above the table (Fig. 1) containing the stitching mechanism. Arm—the curved part of the head containing the mechanism for driving the needle and handling the upper thread.
Throat Plate—the plate in the bed directly below the presser foot through which the needle passes and the feed dog moves. Feed Dog—the toothed part which projects upward through slots in the throat plate, carrying the fabric from the operator at each stitch. The movement of the feed dog is controlled by the stitch regulator which determines the desired length of stitch.
Band Wheel—the large wheel with a groove in which the belt runs, mounted on the band wheel crank and rotated by the up and down motion of the pitman. Belt Shifter—the lever at the front of the band wheel, which may be turned to the left to throw the belt off the wheel. The belt may be replaced automatically by treadling, this action being accomplished by a pro jection on the side of the band wheel, assisted by the belt guide in the rear. Legs—the upright members which support the table.
Practice for Beginners—(Continued) The hand wheel should receive a start with the right hand at the same time as pressure is applied to the treadle. In the case of family sewing machines of the lock-stitch type, the hand wheel should turn from the top towards the operator. This practice should be continued until an easy method of treadling is acquired and the operator is able to start the machine and keep it running smoothly. Note.
Know the Model Number of Your Machine. To make full use of the instruction contained in this book, it will be to your advantage to know the model number of the Sewing Machine you are using. On all except the oldest Singer Machines, the model number will be found printed on a small plate near the Singer trademark to the right hand side of the machine head. F ig . 6. M achin e M odel N umbers .
PREPARING THE MACHINE FOR SEWING Adjusting the Stop Motion Screw for Winding Bobbins. In preparing to sew with the machine, first see that the bobbin is wound with thread of suitable size for the material to be sewn (see page 11). It is necessary to understand the stop motion of the machine by which the hand wheel can be released when winding bobbins, thus permitting the winder to operate with out running the stitching mechanism. To F ig . 7. R eleasing the S top M otion .
To Wind the Bobbin—Machine 99K (New Style), Loosen stop motion screw. Place empty bobbin on winder spindle. Turn bobbin until hole in right side engages pin in spindle. Press winder down until latch engages. Place spool of thread on spool pin. I Thread machine as shown in Fig. 9. ) Hold end of thread and start machine. (End of thread will break off after a few coils have been wound on bobbin). ) When bobbin is full, winder will stop automatically. ► Remove bobbin and retighten stop motion screw. F ig . 9.
To Wind the Bobbin—Machines 328K and 329K. • Loosen stop motion screw. • Place empty bobbin on spindle. • Press bobbin winder down against hand wheel. • Place spool of thread on spool pin. • Thread between tension discs and through bobbin as shown in Fig. 11. • Hold end of thread and start machine. (End of thread will break off after a few coils have been wound on bobbin). When Bobbin is Full • Stop machine. • Lift bobbin winder away from hand wheel and remove bobbin. • Tighten stop motion screw. F ig .
Wind the Bobbins Evenly. Bobbins must be wound evenly in order that they may work properly in the machine. In winding them, see that the thread is placed smoothly and evenly. A correctly wound bobbin will insure the thread running smoothly from the shuttle and prevent uneven stitching, which may occur if the bobbin is not properly wound. 15K80,15K110, 99K (New Style), 185K, 201K, 327K, 328K and 329K.
The Importance of using Correct Needles and Thread. A perfect stitch can be obtained only when the thread is selected to suit the material to be stitched and the needle is of the correct size for the thread. If the needle is too fine for the thread and material, it is likely to break when crossing a seam. If a coarse needle is used on fine material, the perforations made will show in the finished work. A table of correct needles for the various sizes of silk and cotton is given on page 11.
To Set the Needle in Machines 15K, 66K, 99K and 185K (See Fig. 15). Raise needle bar to its by turning hand wheel Loosen clamp screw A. Insert needle (flat side up into needle clamp as go. Tighten clamp screw A. highest point toward you. to the right) far as it will (See Fig. 16). Raise needle bar to its highest point by turning hand wheel toward you. Loosen clamp screw A. Insert needle (flat side to the left) up into needle clamp as far as it will go. Tighten clamp screw A.
Threading Central Bobbin Machine No. 15K. UPPER THREADING UNDER THREADING Open bed slide. Open bobbin case latch as shown in Fig. 19 and withdraw bobbin. Release the latch, turn the bobbin case downward and bobbin will drop out. Hold bobbin case with slot in edge at the top and wound bobbin with thread leading on top towards the right, as shown in Fig. 20. Raise take-up lever to its highest point. Place spool of thread on spool pin. Thread machine as shown in Fig. 18. Thread needle from left to right.
Threading Oscillating Hook Machines Nos. 66K, 99K and 185K UPPER THREADING UNDER THREADING Place bobbin in into slot 1, Fig. 24. F ig . case and draw thread 22. # Raise take-up lever to its highest point. # Place spool of thread on spool pin. # Thread machine as shown in Fig. 22. # Thread needle from left to right. Draw thread between case and tension spring until it reaches notch 2, Fig. 25. Pull about 3 inches of thread across bobbin.
Threading Rotary Hook Machine No. 20IK. UPPER THREADING UNDER THREADING / Hold bobbin so that thread off in direction shown in Fig. 27. leads Place bobbin in case thread into slot 1, Fig. 28. draw F ig . 26. Raise take-up lever to its highest point. Place spool of thread on spool pin. Thread machine as shown in Fig. 26. Thread needle from right to left. and Draw thread between bobbin case and tension spring until it reaches notch 2, Fig. 29. ii'l 11 Pull about 3 inches of thread across bobbin.
Threading Oscillating Hook Machines Nos. 327K, 328K, 329K and 404 UPPER THREADING UNDER THREADING "I X, F ig . 31. Open slide plate. Insert bobbin with thread leading oil as shown in Fig. 31. F ig . 32. Place bobbin in case. Lead thread into slot spring as shown in Fig. 32. F ig . 30. Raise take-up lever to its highest point. Place spool of thread on spool pin. Thread machine as shown in Fig. 30. Thread needle from front to back. and under 'X I /■ ___ ^ /% O/ F ig . 33.
The Necessity for Proper Tensions. The tensions on the sewing machine must be adjusted to suit various materials. There are two tensions, the upper and the lower. The upper tension controls the thread from the needle, while the lower tension controls the thread from the shuttle or bobbin case. The definition of the word tension as given in the dictionary is : “stress by pulling.” It is the pulling of the threads together that completes a stitch made by the sewing machine.
Machines 99K, 185K, 201K, 327K, 328K and 329K are furnished with a tension indicator and flange (C and B, Fig. 38). The index flange (B) is marked with numbers 0 to 9 indicating the different degrees of tension that can be produced. By noting a particular number opposite the white line when set for a satisfactory tension on work being stitched, this number can be readily reverted to when changing from one class of material to another.
Finishing a Seam. When finishing a seanx, never sew beyond the end of the material. Stop the machine by placing the hand on the hand wheel shortly before the end of the seam is reached. (See Fig. 41). This will prevent the thread from becoming entangled in the lower mechanism. Do not attempt to release the material from the machine until the takeup lever is at the highest point. When the take-up is in this position and the presser foot is raised, the upper tension is released.
To Regulate the Length of Stitch. When stitching fine material use a fine needle, fine thread, and a short stitch. Heavy material requires a coarse needle and thread and a longer wmimirnmiimim stitch. (See chart on page 11). The stitch on the 15K26 machine is regu >:.... ! r~>vr->\ lated by the thumb screw in the slot on the .--x MHjH arm (see Fig. 43). To lengthen the stitch on this machine, loosen the thumb screw and ;; move it downwards. To shorten the stitch fV' move the screw upwards.
To Regulate the Length of Stitch and the Direction of Feed on Machine 201K (See Fig. 45). Numerals on the indicator plate represent approximate number of stitches per inch. To set stitch length— • Loosen thumb screw A and lower to bottom of slot. • Move lever B until its top edge is level with desired stitch setting. • Raise screw A as far as it will go and tighten. Machine will now make the desired number of stitches forward. To reverse stitching— • Set as above then raise lever B as far as it will go.
To Regulate the Length of Stitch and the Direction of Feed on , / Machines 328K, 329K and 404. (See Fig. 47). : i TO RELEASE Numerals on left side of indi cator represent number of stitches per inch. Numerals on right side represent stitch length in millimeters. Upper inclined area of the regu lator represents stitch lengths above 20. Lower inclined area of the regu lator allows the No. 6 stitch length setting to be “locked” in place when stitching folds, pleats or multiple layers of heavy fabric.
Gleaning and Oiling. Sewing Machines require oiling and cleaning daily if they are used continu ously. If used moderately—a few hours per day—it is sufficient to oil and clean once or twice a week. Like all other machinery, a sewing machine will not give satisfaction if its working parts are allowed to become dry or gummed with a poor grade of oil.
Gleaning and Oiling—(Continued) The face plate should also be removed to give access to the oiling points on the needle bar, presser bar and thread take-up. Apply a drop of oil to each oil hole and joint. Release the belt from the band wheel by moving the lever of the belt shifter, Fig. 49, to the left while the machine is running. To replace the belt, work the treadle slowly with the band wheel turning towards you. The belt will then be automatically brought back into place.
Gleaning and Oiling—(continued) To Glean the Stitch-Forming Mechanism of Machines 66K, 99K and 185K. If the stitch-forming mechanism should become clogged with lint and interfere with the perfect operation of the machine, remove the bobbin case, as described in the following in structions, and dislodge the lint accumulated in the machine. SINGER Lint B rush To Remove Bobbin Gase. Raise needle and presser foot. Draw slide plate to the left. F ig . 54. To Replace Bobbin Gase.
Gleaning and Oiling—(Continued) To Clean Stitch-Forming Mechanism of Machine 20IK (See Fig. 56) To Remove Bobbin Case To Replace Bobbin Case Raise needle and presser foot. Place bobbin case in position with finger A in the opening in the plate under the feed dog, as shown. Draw slide plate to the left. Remove bobbin from case. Turn bobbin case back and slightly to ensure proper seating. Turn hand wheel over toward you until end of hook ring E is toward the front of machine, as shown.
Gleaning and Oiling—(Continued). To Glean the Stitch-Forming Mechanism on Machines 327K, 328K, 329K and 404. To Remove the Bobbin Gase To Replace the Bobbin Gase. • Raise needle bar and presser bar. • Open slide plate. • Remove bobbin from bobbin case. POSITIONING STUD / Remove throat plate as follows Replace bobbin case so that groove under tension spring fits on hook raceway and fork of case straddles positioning stud. Push bobbin case holder to left un" til it snaps down into lock position- Fig.
Cleaning and Oiling—(Continued). To Oil the Bobbin Winder. To ensure smooth running of the Bobbin Winder, a drop of oil should be applied to its oiling points. Care should also be taken not to allow oil to come in contact with the rubber ring on the Bobbin Winder, as this causes deterioration of the rubber and also causes the ring to slip on the hub of the hand wheel. In this case, the only remedy is to replace the ring. F ig . 62. B obbin O iling W inder .
To Remove Gummed Oil. If the machine should run hard after it has been idle for some time, this is probably due to the oil in its bearings having become gummed. A little paraffin should then be applied at each oiling point and the machine run rapidly for a few minutes so as to dissolve the old oil, after which the machine should be thoroughly wiped with a duster or a piece of waste material. Singer Oil should afterwards be applied to all working parts.
Stitches Looping. Looped stitches are usually caused by the tension being too loose. See pages 18-19 for the regulation of tensions. See that both the upper and lower threading are correct, that the thread is of good quality and the correct size for the needle. Test both tensions and stitch on a piece of the material to be sewn.
How to Cut Material for Use with the Binder. {Material used for binding must he cut on the bias). The bias cutting gauge, shown in Fig. 64, is very useful for cutting bias strips to be used with the Binder attachment. Binding must be cut Y wide if the material contains dressing, and about I" wide for soft material. The letter F shows the position at which to set the blue spring or indicator for Facings, B for Binding, and C for Cording or Piping.
Cut the strips, lay the two diagonal ends as shown in Fig. 67, and stitch them together. The stitching should be as close to the edge as possible so that the seam passes through the Binder freely. When the strips are straight ened out, as shown in Fig. 67, the edges are exactly even. Do not join the strips as shown in Fig. 68, as the edges would be uneven when straightened out.
Bias binding in a variety of colours, cut and folded ready for use with the Binder, may be purchased at Singer Shops. F ig . 72. Inserting F olded B inding in O utside S lot . Folded binding should be inserted in the outside slot of the Binder, as shown in Fig. 72. The Binder is adjusted and operated in the same manner as when using unfolded binding.
Binding Outside Curves. Practice is required to bind a curved edge prop erly. The edge to be bound must be held well within the scroll of the Binder in order to make a strong seam and so that the edge will not pull out. Fig. 72. Binding an Outside Curve. Turn the material only as fast as the machine sews. It is not possible to hold the material in the entire length of the scroll when binding a small curve.
Applying a French Fold to a Curve. A French fold is applied by placing the ma terial under the attachment and stitching the binding in posi tion, as shown in Fig. 74. A line made by basting or with chalk or pencil may be used as a guide in apply ing rows where wanted. Fig. 74. Applying French Folds. Binding a Square Corner. To bind a square corner, apply the binding along one side to within of the edge of the material, stopping the machine with the needle and take-up at the highest point.
Binding Plackets. To bind a placket, first fold the material in a straight line, as shown in Fig. 74, placing the fullness in a flat fold on the under side of the material. Insert the edge of the placket in the Binder and stitch the binding on as usual. Run the machine slowly as the point is reached and take care that A Fig. 74. Binding a Placket. Fig. 75. Sample of Bound Placket too much material is not allowed to feed into the Binder.
This braid makes a suitable trimming for serge or other woollen material and, when applied with the Binder, has a neat tailored appearance im possible to obtain by hand sewing. Both inside and outside curves may be bound with per fect ease after the Binder has been properly adjusted. F ig . 77. B inding with M ilitary B raid . Making Button Loops with the Binder. To make button loops, first stitch together a piece of binding of the desired material and length by using the Binder.
two inches apart, take a twoinch strip of material, as shown 1 in Fig. 79, at A, and bind each i t t side, as shown at B. » 1 1 1 t Measure the diameter of the 1 1 t button you wish to use and cut 1 t 1 1 the bound strip into pieces one1 t: 1 1 i half inch greater than the width 1 1 t of the button. (See Figs. 79-B 1 1 1 I and 80). After the strip is cut t t < into sections, bind them to I »^ B t gether so that the bound edges ♦ » 1 just meet, as shown in Fig. 80.
Making Cut-in Buttonholes with the Binder. The cut-in buttonhole is made in the same way as the placket. Cut a slot in the edge of the material to the depth you wish to make the buttonhole and shape it, as shown in Fig. 82 at A. Fold the material in the same manner as in binding a placket. (See Fig. 74). Trim off the edge of the binding, as shown in Fig. 82 at B, and bind the edge with the Binder, as shown at C. F ig . 82. C ut -in B uttonholes . THE BLIND STITCHER.
THE BUTTONHOLER F ig . 84. T he B uttonholer . This attachment produces neat and durable buttonholes in a great variety of fabrics without any special skill on the part of the operator. The buttonholes are produced in a fraction of the time required for hand work and they are firmer and more even than those made by hand. F ig . 85. THE FOOT HEMMER AND THE ADJUSTABLE HEMMER. The Foot Hemmer. F ig . 86.
F ig , 2. Place the material in the Hemmer at a point just beyond the fold, as shown in Fig. 87. 3. Draw the material to wards you through the Hem mer, at the same time making the second fold at the very edge. Continue to draw the material through the Hem mer until the edge is just under the needle. Place the upper and lower threads together under the Hemmer foot and assist the starting of the hem by slightly pulling the threads from the back after the first stitch has been made. 87.
When using this seam the garment must be first fitted and the edge of the material trimmed, allowing for about one-eighth inch seam. The two edges are placed together and in serted in the Hemmer in the same manner as a single hem. If the material is bulky, the edge of the upper piece of material may be placed about one-eighth inch in from the edge of the lower piece. (See Fig.89). The free edge of a hemmed seam may be stitched flat to the garment, if desired.
Hemming Fine Materials with the Foot Hemmer. When hemming fine materials, such as georgette or crepe de chine, with the Foot Hemmer, the material will not feed through properly and the stitch will be very much shorter than when sewing with the presser foot on the same material. To overcome this difficulty, and to assist in holding soft materials so that they will be turned properly with the Foot Hemmer, insert a piece of paper under the material between the feed and.
How to Insert the Material in the Adjustable Hemmer, Fold over the edge at the end of the ma terial to be hemmed, as instructed for start ing a hem with the Foot Hemmer. Place the material in the Hemmer under the scale and draw it back wards and forwards until the hem is formed. You will then be able to determine the width and to fold over the end of the hem for the second turning. Draw the material back until the end comes directly under F ig .. 92. H emming with the A djustable H emmer . the needle.
Making a Wide Hem with the Adjustable Hemmer. To make a hem more than 1" wide, loosen the thumb screw and draw the slide to the right as far as it will go, then turn this part towards you, as shown in Fig. 94. Fold and crease down a hem of the desired width, pass the fold under the ex tension at the right of the hemmer, insert the edge of the material into the folder, as shown, and proceed to stitch.
The Tuck Guide, which is adjustable and may be set for any desired width of tuck. The Tuck Scale, containing figures which indicate different widths of tucks. The tuck scale also acts as a smoothing blade, keeping the tucks of uniform width. The Tuck Guide Adjusting Screw, by means of which the tuck guide may be set at any point on the tuck scale. The Spacing Scale, contains figures on the upper blade which indicate the width of the space between tucks.
To adjust for the width of space between the tucks, loosen the space scale adjusting screw and move the space scale until the desired figure is directly in line with the centre of the needle hole. You will find a line front and back of the needle hole to indicate the centre. Before starting to sew, tighten the screw well to prevent the scale shifting when the Tucker is in operation.
How to Tuck Silk or Chiffon. It is possible to tuck silks, such as taffeta, quite as easily as cotton material. Soft materials such as crepe de chine and georgette, are harder to crease, but may be tucked successfullly if a piece of paper is slipped under the Tucker. It is very necessary that the tensions be properly adjusted before starting to tuck fine materials, as a tight tension will pucker the material and cause the thread to break when the tuck is pressed. How to Make Fine Tucks and Gross Tucking.
The Parts of the Ruffler and Their Uses. It is necessary to become familiar with the Ruffler before it can be used successfully. Take the Ruffler from the set of attachm mts and compare it with Fig. 99. Note the names and uses of the principal parts, as under : The Ruffler can be used on all Straight Needle domestic sewing machines and is attached in place of the presser foot. The needle is threaded in the manner described in the instruction book supplied with the machine.
Oiling the Rüffler. The Rüffler requires an occasional oiling of all working parts to pre vent them from sticking. A drop of oil at each point indicated in Fig. 100 is sufficient. If possible sew on a waste piece of material after oiling to prevent your work from becoming soiled. If the Ruffler does not plait evenly, a drop of oil may remedy the trouble. F ig . 100. O iling P oints on R uffler . To Attach the Ruffler to the Machine. Raise the needle bar to the highest point and remove the presser foot.
Making a Ruffle and Sewing it to the Gar ment at One Operation. After having tested and adjusted the Rufiier for full ness, place the material to be ruffled in the Ruffler be tween the two blue blades and insert the garment to which it is to be attached under the separator blade following line 1, Ing. 99. Proceed as for plain gather ing, guiding the material lightly so that it will not feed away from the heading guide. (See Fig. 102). F ig . 102.
To Apply Rows of Ruffles. Rows of ruffles may be stitched to the work in hand while they are being made, by placing the work under the Ruffler and the material for the ruffle between the blades, as shown in Fig. 104. The position on the work for the ruffles may be indicated by a basting thread or a chalk mark. If the heading on the ruffle is to be more than one-quarter of an inch wide, do not place the material in the guide when following F ig . lO-l. A pplying R ows of R uffles to a G arment . line 2 (Fig.
Group Plaiting and Gathering. The Ruffler may be adjusted for group plaiting by lifting the adjusting lever and placing it on top of the projection at the point indicated by the star on the adjusting lever. This should be done at the points where you wish to make the spaces between the plaits. The Ruffler will then stop and plain stitching will be made until the lever is again adjusted so that the projection comes up through the slot 5. The sewing machine must be run slowly and the plaits counted.
To Shirr. Remove from the ruffler the lower blue blade by loosening the small screw at the side of the ruffler ; then attach the latter to the presser bar, as already instructed. Place the material between the blue blade and the Shirring Plate, lower the Presser Bar Lifter and proceed as in ruffling. Shirring may be done with a loose upper tension when it is desired to slide the gathers on the thread to ñt a certain space.
The Underbraider. Raise the needle and, in place of the ordinary presser foot, fit the Quilter Foot, without the movable bar. But if it is desired to apply braid in parallel rows, the bar may be left on to act as a guide. F ig . 109. Attach the Underbraider as instructed for the Shirring Plates on page 54. In the case of Machines 15K, 66K, 99K, 185K and 201K the attachment has to be secured by means of the thumb screw.
How to Braifl. The design to be braided must be applied to the wrong side of the garment For most braiding, a medium length of stitch should be used, but when braiding small curves it is sometimes necessary to use a shorter stitch and to run the machine slowly in order to follow the curves. A braiding design should always be started where it is convenient to pull the braid through to the under side.
Ornamental Stitching. Requiring no special attachment or skill, this effective form of ornamental stitching deserves attention from those who like to explore the many novel stitching processes open to the Singer machinist. Very attractive decorations may be made by winding the bobbin with heavy embroidery silk and using plain sewing silk in the needle. The under tension is entirely released. (See page 17). The silk should pull perfectly free from the bobbin.
THE ZIPPER FOOT The zipper foot is designed for accurate place ment of stitches close to a raised edge. The hinged feature of this foot insures even feeding over pins, heavy layers of fabric or cross seams. It is attached to the machine in place of the presser foot, and may be adjusted to either side of the needle. Applications. Zipper insertions Corded seams Tubular cording Slip cover welting P'lG. 112. The Zipper Foot. Preparation the needle hole in the throat plate.
Move foot to the left of needle. Close zipper and turn it face up. Smooth back the seam allowance at the edge of the zipper. Top stitch the seam allowance to the tape close to the folded edge. • • • • • • Turn skirt to right side. Fold zipper to front of skirt. Pin in place from right side. Base. Move foot to right of needle. Stitch across lower end of zipper and up to waistline. • Remove basting. Fig. 115. Fig. 114. Corded Welting.
Corded Seams. The corded seam is a typical treatment for slip covers, children’s clothes, blouses and lingerie. When cording a seam the zipper foot is usually adjusted to the right of the needle so that the bulk of the work will fall to the left. • Attach corded welting to right side of a single seam edge, using same length stitch as used for welting (page 60). Guide edge of foot next to cord, but do not crowd. • Place attached corded welting over second seam edge, and pin or baste together.
THE GATHERING FOOT Fig. 120. The Gathering Foot. Single or mul tiple rows of shirring can be quickly and ex pertly placed with the gather ing foot. Evenly spaced shirring is insured as this foot is designed to lock fullness into every stitch. Fig. 121. Applications. Plain shirring Waffle shirrini Machine smockElastic shirring Shirring Shirring is usually done on the crosswise grain of the fabric. Soft fabrics lend themselves to shirring better than firm fabrics.
THE EDGE-STITCHER A COMBINED EDGE-STITCHING, LACE-JOINING AND PIPING ATTACHMENT. This useful attachment is fastened to the machine in place of the presser foot, and is an indispensable aid whenever stitching must be kept accurately on the extreme edge of the material. The slots numbered 1 to 5 in Fig. 123 serve as guides for sewing together laces, insertions and embroideries, sewing in position hemmed or folded edges, piping or sewing flat braid to a garment. F i g . 123. Adjusting the Edge-Stitcher.
by the stitching. Hold the two pieces slightly overlapped to keep them against the ends of the slots. The thread tensions should be loose to avoid puckering of fine lace. Fig. 125. Setting in Lace Insertion. Lace and ribbon or other insertions can be set in by using the same slots (1 and 4). The material may be folded over before placing it in the slot so that a double thickness is stitched and will not pull out. The surplus material is trimmed away clo.se to the stitching as shown in Fig. 125.
under a presser foot, and placing the tape in slot 1 or 4. To make a square corner, sew until the turning point is reached, then remove the tape from the attachment and form the corner by hand, replace it in the slot and continue stitching, as shown in Fig. 127. To space two or more parallel rows, a guide line such as a crease, chalk or basting thread should be used. Fig. 127. Applying Bias Folds with the Edge-Stitcher. Stitching a Wide Hem with the Edge-Stitcher. A wide hem on sheets, pillow slips, etc.
Making a French Seam. An even French seam may be made by inserting the two edges to be joined, wrong sides together, in slot 1 or 2 and stitching close to the edge ; then folding both right sides together and inserting the back of the seam into slot 1 again and stitching with just enough margin to conceal the raw edges. See Fig. 129. Tucking with the Edge-Stitcher. Dainty narrow tucking may be produced on the edge-stitcher by inserting creased folds in slot 1 as shown in Fig.
THE SEAM GUIDE The seam guide aids in attaining uniformity of seam Fig. 131. width. It provides for stitching to be placed at any distance between ^ to 11" from edge of fabric. SEAMS For straight seams. Align guide with presser foot. Adjust machine for straight stitching. Pin seam edges and baste if necessary. Guide fabric edges lightly against guide while stitching. For curved seams : Set attach ment at an angle so that end closest to needle acts as a guide.
Darning. Anyone who can use a sewing machine can make darns in household napery in a fraction of the time required for hand darning, and these will be infinitely superior in appearance and will wear and wash better. The only special fittings required for the work—all of which may be had for the outlay of a few shillings—are a Darning or Embroidery Hoop, a small plate to cover the feed, and a little Spring Presser to hold the material in position while the needle is on its upward course.
Pull out the shuttle cover slide far enough to allow the feed cover plate to be clipped over the needle plate, as shown in Fig. 137 ; close the slide again and make sure that the needle comes down through the centre of the hole in the feed cover plate and needle plate. \ ! Pig. 136. Threading for Darning on 66K, 99K and 135K Machines. Fig. 137.
The following instructions for manipulating darning on all Singer Domestic Sewing Machines. the work apply to Darning Table Linen, Towels, etc. To ensure a soft, smooth finish, it is essential that a fine needle and fine mercerised cotton should be used, which can be obtained from Singer Shops. Ordinary cotton, however fine, results in a rather stifier, heavier darn.
l\' Fig. 139. Darning on Section of Table Cloth in Process and Completed. If the stitches are loose on the under side, either the presser bar is not down or the tensions are not properly adjusted. Rug Making, etc. With the aid of an inexpensive device called a “Singercraft Guide” excellent rugs can be pro duced using ordinary rug wool, rag strips, damaged silk stockings cut spiral, or on the bias in strips, and other similar material.
SINGER AUTOMATIC ZIGZAGGER Fig. 141. ZiGZAGGER FOR 15K AND 201K Machines. Fig. 142. ZiGZAGGER FOR 99K, 185K AND 329K Machines. This wonderful SINGER fashion aid will enable you to produce an infinite variety of attractive ornamental designs merely through the interchange of the different Stitch Patterns and the adjustment of the bight and stitch length.
THE ELECTRIC SEWING MACHINE. In this electrical age there are few household appliances more valuable than the electric sewing machine. Sewing then becomes a positive pleasure ; you just plug into a lamp socket or wall plug, and switch on. Both hands are free to guide the work, and the speed of the machine, which is regulated by gentle pressure on the speed controller, may be varied at will to suit the work in hand.
and substituted by the small motor belt connecting the hand wheel of the machine with the pulley of the motor. The speed controller is attached to the brace of the stand and then connected to the treadle of the machine by means of the Pitman Rod, which has first been unscrewed from the driving crank of the band wheel. An ordinary treadle machine can thus become an electric one. The conversion takes only a few minutes and can be done by anyone without electrical or mechanical skill.
The Electric Cabinet Machine. (See Fig. 146). The fourth model is the Electric Cabinet Machine. Here the machine is mounted on an elegant cabinet. The motor is attached to the machine as previously described, and the controller is located on the floor. When not in use the machine is lowered beneath the cabinet top, the hinged leaf is folded over and the door closed to give a handsome piece of furniture which will enhance any room. F ig . 146.
The Singer Light. For all machines, whether hand, treadle, or electric, the Singer Light is recommended, if electric current is available. This little light is attached to the arm of the machine and projects its light on to the material just where it is being stitched. It great ly adds to the comfort of the operator as it prevents eyestrain and makes the threading of the needle easy. No machine is com plete without a Singer Light. Fig. 147. Conversion of Ordinary Singer Machines to Electric Machines.
SWING NEEDLE MACHINES. The modern trend in sewing machines is towards the zig-zag or swing needle machines. In this class, there are three Singer models, the Singer Slant-O-Matic, the Singer 328K and the Singer 327K.
EXAMPLES OF AUTOMATIC STITCH PATTERNS. Decorative designs need not be limited the possibility of creative designs are endless. 11 1i 11 11 11 11 11 11 11 1 t 1I ! 1 11 .» >> > ✓ ✓ \V \\ // // s> >> N\ // >> 1 // S\ S\ \V // ✓ y / / w /S « to those done automatically, for Ii 1 i )1 t1 t << 11 t j / i i ;; < 1i 11 11 \ \ 1i i1 ss f 1( 11 ] ] 11 11 1^1 SWING NEEDLE TRANSFERS.
