Specifications

Chapter 4 Frame and forks
69
3.2 Remove fork top bolt to release yoke
4 Front forks: removing the fork legs from the yokes
1 It is not necessary to remove the complete headstock
assembly if attention to the fork legs alone is required. The in-
structions in Section 2 of this Chapter should be followed, then
proceed as described below:
2 Remove the fork top bolts and slacken the pinch bolts
which clamp the stanchions in the lower yoke. The fork legs can
now be removed individually. If necessary, the fork top bolts can
be screwed partly home, and tapped with a soft faced mallet to
jar the leg out of position. On CG125 models the shrouds will
remain in position.
5 Steering head bearings: examination and renovation
1 Before reassembly of the forks is commenced, examine the
steering head races. The ball bearing tracks of the respective
cup and cone bearings should be polished and free from
indentations or cracks. If wear or damage is evident, the cups
and cones must be renewed as a complete set. They are a tight
press fit and should be drifted out of position.
2 Ball bearings are cheap. If the originals are marked or
discoloured, they should be renewed. To hold the steel balls in
position during reassembly, pack the bearings with grease.
6 Fork yokes: examination
1 To check the top yoke for accident damage, push the fork
stanchions through the bottom yoke and fit the top yoke. If it
lines up, it can be assumed the yokes are not bent. Both must
also be checked for cracks. If they are damaged or cracked, fit
new replacements.
7 Fork legs: dismantling, examination and renovation -
CG125 model
1 This type of fork is fully shrouded, and has an external vari-
able rate spring. After the leg concerned has been removed
from the yokes, the spring and headed spring guide may be slid
off the stanchion. The guide serves to hold the top of the spring
concentric to the stanchion, and thereby removes any tendency
for the spring to chatter. It is unlikely to suffer any noticeable
degree of wear. It will be noted that the forks are fitted with
variable rate springs which mean that the forks are deflected
easily at the start of their movement, and that subsequent com-
pression produces progressively greater tension. It is important
that the tighter coils are fitted at the top of the fork. Check the
free length of the springs and compare it with the dimensions
given in the specification. Always renew the springs as a pair.
2 Remove the lower shroud half and lower spring guide/seat
to expose the bare stanchion and lower leg. Remove the circlip
which retains the seal in the top of the lower leg. The lower leg
should be clamped lightly in a vice, using soft aluminium jaws or
some rag to prevent the surface of the leg from becoming
scarred. If the restrictor is to be removed, press the stanchion
fully into the lower leg to prevent the restrictor from rotating
while its retaining screw is released.
3 The stanchion can now be pulled out of the lower leg, the
oil seal being displaced by the headed upper fork bush. The seal
should be renewed as a matter of course, each time the forks
are dismantled.
4 Examine the inner surface of the headed top bush for signs
of scuffing, and check that it is not slack when fitted on the
stanchion. Any discernible axial play will necessitate renewal.
The outer surface of the plain lower bush (which acts as the
damper piston), should also be examined, and if possible, the
4.2a Stanchion is held by pinch bolt in lower yoke 4.2b Fork leg can be pulled free from yokes.