Specifications

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Chapter 4 Frame and forks
2 Front forks: removal — general
1 It is unlikely that the forks will require removal from the
frame unless the fork seals are leaking or accident damage has
been sustained. In the event that the latter has occurred, it
should be noted that the frame may also have become bent, and
whilst this may not be obvious when checked visually, could
prove to be potentially dangerous.
2 If attention to the fork legs only is required, it is
unnecessary to detach the complete assembly, the legs being
easily removed individually.
3 If, on the other hand, the headstock bearings are in need of
attention, the forks complete with bottom yoke must be
removed.
4 Before any dismantling work can be undertaken, the
machine should be placed on the centre stand and blocked
securely so that the front wheel is held off the ground. Detach
the speedometer drive cable at the wheel, by unscrewing the
knurled gland nut which retains it. Remove the front brake
cable.
5 Remove the wheel spindle nut and split pin, and withdraw
the spindle with the aid of a tommy bar. The wheel can now be
lowered clear of the forks and put to one side.
6 To avoid damage to the paintwork, it is a good idea to
remove the front mudguard at this stage, irrespective of
whether removal will later be necessary, as in the case of
individual fork leg removal.
3 Front forks: removing the fork assembly from the frame
1 Before the forks can be detached, it will be necessary to
remove the handlebars, complete with controls, the mudguard,
(if this has not already been removed), and the headlamp unit.
Start by covering the petrol tank with an old blanket, or similar,
to protect the paintwork from damage. Slacken and remove the
handlebar clamp retaining bolts, noting that the right-hand
clamp incorporates a helmet lock. The clamp halves can now be
lifted off, and the handlebar assembly rested across the top of
the petrol tank.
2 Disconnect the speedometer drive cable, and then release
its retaining bolts and lift the instrument head away, detaching
the bulbholders from the base as this is done.
3 Remove the headlamp unit from its shell, by releasing the
single screw which secures the rim. The headlamp can be
removed completely by disconnecting the colour coded leads
inside the shell. Alternatively, the unit can be left in place, the
two mounting bolts released, and the leads threaded around the
stanchions as the forks are removed. Note that whilst this will
save disconnecting and then reconnecting the headlamp wiring,
care must be taken to avoid damage to the unit during the fork
dismantling sequence.
4 Slacken the two fork top bolts which pass through the top
yoke, and the large chromium plated nut which retains the top
yoke to the top of the steering stem. With these removed, the
top yoke can be lifted away. If it proves stubborn, it may be
tapped free using a soft-faced mallet. If the headlamp has been
left in place, this should be positioned clear of the forks, as
should any trailing cables. Note that it will be necessary to
release the front indicator lamp leads from the inside of the
headlamp shell.
5 Using a 46mm C spanner (available as a Honda service
tool, part number: 07902 - 2400000), slacken off the lockring
which retains the steering column. Have to hand two small tins
or jars in which the head race balls can be kept safely. The balls
from the lower race will drop free as the cup and cone part, and
should be caught. Make sure none are left clinging to the race.
Support the fork assembly while the lockring and cone are
removed, and the balls from the upper race are removed and
placed in the second container. The lower yoke can now be
removed complete with the fork legs.
2.4 Release brake and speedometer cable, then remove wheel
2.5 Mudguard is secured by four bolts 3.1 Right-hand handlebar clamp incorporates helmet lock