Instructions / Assembly

First you will build the basic framework.
STEP 1: DETERMINE THE LENGTH AND LUMBER DIMENSIONS NEEDED. You will likely want to store
your watercraft all the way out of the water and away from any wave action. Also remember that a few feet of the
ramp will extend into the water so that the rollers first engage the hull below the bow. For the side rails or main
supporting beams of the Model 1200 it is recommended that you use 2 x 6s with 2 x 4s for the cross members. For
the Model 2000 use 2 x 8s with either 2 x 4s or 2 x 6s for the cross members. Use pressure treated lumber for longer
life. If possible use single length boards for the side rails. If you must join lengths end-to-end, instructions for doing
so are included at the end of the assembly instructions.
IMPORTANT: The side rails must be strong enough so as not to deflect much from the weight of the boat. This is
especially important when lowering the boat into the water with longer ramps. If the side rails deflect, the boat transom
may hang up on the rollers directly behind it. NEVER TRY TO FREE A HUNG UP BOAT FROM BEHIND. ALWAYS
TAKE OUT SLACK FROM THE WINCH HANDLE AND HAVE THE WINCH MANNED WHEN FREEING BOAT!
The best way to eliminate deflection of the ramp is by using supporting blocks or installing supporting legs as outlined
below.
STEP 2: DETERMINE THE WIDTH of the ramp you need. By looking at the shape of your hull at the transom,
decide where you want the rollers to align. Consider having the rollers fall in line with a flatter area of the hull.
Support need not be as wide as on a boat trailer as there are not the same side forces as encountered on the open road.
IMPORTANT: Consider that a narrower spacing of the rails will help when loading your boat onto the ramp. The bow
will be less likely to bottom out on the ground or cross members as the boat starts to angle up to the ramp.
IMPORTANT: Consider leaving the cross members longer than needed for a couple of reasons. You may want the wider
support especially if on uneven ground and/or blocking is necessary and secondly, you may change your mind and change
the side rail spacing. (In that case you would need to re-cut another winch post base).
STEP 3: Cut the boards and assemble the crossmembers to the rail as shown. You may want to cut an angle out of
the water end of the side beams as shown below, but it isn’t necessary. If you do, attach the end crossmember a few
inches from the end so that the top of the side brace makes full contact with the side rail. Attach all of the end
crossmembers first and then equally space the remaining crossmembers. Use the 3 inch screws provided.
Install the side braces. Hold or clamp them in place to drill 3/8” holes through the side rails and crossmembers.
Attach using 3/8” x 2 ½” carriage bolts, nuts and lock washers.