Sherline 5000 Mill Assembly Instructions

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REMOVING TOOLS FROM THE MORSE TAPERED SPINDLES
Accessories held in the headstock spindle use a Morse #1
taper and can be removed with the use of a knockout rod
(not supplied) approximately 3/8" in diameter and 6" long.
The bar is inserted through the back of the spindle, and
accessories, such as centers, can be removed with a few
FIGURE 27—Holding a square work piece in a 4-jaw
chuck
FIGURE 28—Turning between centers with a faceplate
and drive dog
taps. Accessories like the drill chuck that are drawn into
the spindle taper with a drawbolt are removed by loosening
the drawbolt a few turns and then giving the head of the
bolt a sharp tap to break the taper loose. The tailstock
spindle does not have a through hole and a drawbolt is not
used. It is equipped with a Morse #0 taper, and accessories
such as drill chucks and centers can be removed by turning
the handwheel counterclockwise until the accessory is
ejected.
CENTER DRILLING
Because the work turns and the drill does not on a lathe, it
is necessary to use a center drill before a standard drill can
be used. Due to the flexibility of a standard drill bit, it will
DOG
FACEPLATE
GREASE TAILSTOCK CENTER
TO PREVENT OVERHEATING
OR USE A “LIVE CENTER”
tend to wander on the surface of the rotating work, whereas
a center drill is designed to seek the center and begin drilling.
The 60° point of the center drill makes a properly shaped
index hole for the tip of a live or dead center. It also provides
an accurate starting point for a standard drill. Cutting oil is
recommended for all drilling operations. A center drill should
be withdrawn, cleared of chips and oiled several times during
the drilling of a hole to keep the tip from breaking off.
For more information, see the chart of commonly available
center drill sizes on page 38.
TAILSTOCK DRILLING
Hold the work in a 3- or 4-jaw chuck. If the work is longer
than approximately 3" (76 mm), support the free end with a
steady rest. Seat the drill chuck’s #0 Morse arbor into the
tailstock spindle and secure a center drill in the chuck. Adjust
the tailstock to bring the center drill close to the work and
lock it in position. Turn the tailstock handwheel to bring the
center drill forward. After the hole is started with the center
drill, switch to a standard drill bit of the desired size to drill
the hole. (See page 37 for more on drilling holes.)
The easiest way to center drill the end of a round shaft that
has a diameter too large to be put through the spindle is to
support it with a steady rest (P/N 1074) while the end is
being drilled. If this isn’t possible, find the center with a
centering square, prick punch a mark and center drill by
hand. (See Figure 43, page 26 for a steady rest in use.)
HEADSTOCK DRILLING
The drill chuck comes fitted with a #0 Morse arbor that fits
in the tailstock spindle. To use it in the headstock, you will
need to first change to the #1 Morse arbor that is included
with your chuck. To change arbors, put the drill chuck key
in its hole to give you better purchase to grip the chuck
while using a wrench to remove the #0 arbor. Replace it
with the larger #1 arbor. Put the drill chuck in the headstock.
Then put the drawbolt with its washer through the spindle
hole from the other end of the headstock and tighten the
drawbolt. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN! (See Figure 30,
next page.)
FIGURE 29—Tailstock center drilling. The work turns
while the drill is held stationary in the tailstock