RB-She-01 Sherline CNC-Ready 3-Axis Milling Machine SHERLINE Lathe and Mill Setup Instructions .................................................................. 3 Getting answers to your questions about machining ...................................................... 3 An introduction to the world of miniature machining .................................................... 3 What new machinists like most and least ................................................................... 3 There are no shortcuts..
Movement of the handwheels ....................................................................................... 23 Aligning the head and tailstock..................................................................................... 24 Use of cutting oils and lubricants.................................................................................. 25 General machining terms ..............................................................................................
SHERLINE Lathe and Mill Setup Instructions Getting answers to your questions about machining Over the years we have found that the majority of our customers are both highly intelligent and skilled craftsmen. Often they are also new to machining. The instructions we have included in this book, while far more extensive than anything included with other machine tools, even ones costing thousands of dollars, still only scratch the surface when it comes to machining.
If you are new to machining, you may find it to be either one of the most rewarding skills one can learn or the most frustrating thing you have ever attempted. What makes machining fun for some is the complexity and challenge. The same thing will drive others up the wall. One customer may be overjoyed because he can now make parts that were not available for purchase. Another may wonder why he just spent all day making a part that is similar to one he could have purchased for two dollars.
SAFETY RULES FOR POWER TOOLS 1. KNOW YOUR POWER TOOL-Read the owner's manual carefully. Learn its application and limitations as well as the specific potential hazards peculiar to this tool. 2. GROUND ALL TOOLS-If tool is equipped a with three-prong plug, it should be plugged into a three-hole receptacle. If an adapter is used to accommodate a twoprong receptacle, the adapter wire must be attached to a KNOWN GROUND. Never remove third the prong. (See Figure 1.) 3. KEEP GUARDS IN PLACE-and in working order.
adjustments. They should be just tight enough to do the job. Overtightening may damage threads or warp parts, thereby reducing accuracy and effectiveness. 20. It is not recommended that the lathe be used for grinding. The fine dust that results from the grinding operation is extremely hard on bearings and other moving parts of your tool. For the same reason, if the lathe or any other precision tool is kept near an operating grinder, it should be kept covered when not in use. 21.
Prior to that, we used an AC/DC motor. Use that motor ONLY with the power source for which it was intended. It will not automatically adapt to any other current and using it with an improper power source will burn out the motor or speed control. Also, the first few DC units built did not include the circuits to adapt to other currents. If you have an early DC model, remove the plastic speed control housing and look for a label on the aluminum speed control frame.
General precautions • • • DO NOT attempt to operate the lathe or mill without first mounting them to a secure base. (See page 6.) DO NOT turn on the motor with a 3-jaw chuck mounted if the jaws are not tightened on themselves or on a part. A chip guard (P/N 4360) is now available that offers additional protection from flying chips when working near the spindle. It is not a substitute for wearing proper eye protection but is an excellent level of additional protection.
following instructions carefully. Keep your machine clean, lubricated and adjusted as instructed. Do not leave cleaning rags, tools or other materials on the lathe bed or around moving parts of the machine. Learning more about machining Many fine books have been written on machining techniques and are available at your local library or book store. Although these books will be referring to machines many times larger than Sherline's tools, the principle remains the same.
Lathe-crosslide mounting procedure Installation of the crosslide requires no tools. First, make sure the bottom of the crosslide has a light coat of grease on all the sliding surfaces. This will have been applied at the factory, just make sure it has not been wiped off and that it is evenly distributed. FIGURE 2 Next, see that the gib is in the proper position on the saddle. (See Figure 2.) It is taped into position for shipping. Remove the tape holding it in place.
FIGURE 3 Look underneath and align the slide screw with the threads on the brass slide screw insert on the side of the saddle. (See Figure 4.) Turn the crosslide handwheel clockwise to engage the threads. Continue to crank the handwheel clockwise until the crosslide is in the desired position on the saddle. FIGURE 4 Mill-column mounting procedure The mill is shipped attached to a piece of plywood to keep it from moving in the box. Before you begin, remove the screws holding the mill base to the plywood.
the bag with the motor mounting bracket and drive belt. It is much easier to mount the column to the base before you mount the motor and speed control to the saddle. FIGURE 5 Set the column on the base aligned with the mounting holes and hold it in position while you insert the first screw up from the bottom of the base. Hand turn the first screw part way in and then start the second screw.
Vibration in shipping can cause some bolts or screws to loosen up. Before using your new machine, check the tightness of all fasteners. It is also a good idea to check tightness periodically when using the machine, as vibration from operation may cause some fasteners to loosen up. Mounting the motor and speed control unit to the headstock (Refer to the exploded views and number list for part number references.) FIGURE 6-DC Motor and Speed Control Assembly 1. Remove motor pulley from motor shaft.
belt is routed properly. Then secure the cover with (2) 1-3/8" pan head screws which go into nuts pressed into the back of the inner belt guard. 5. Attach motor mounting bracket to rear of headstock with two 10-32 x 3/8" socket head screws. There is enough "play" in the mounting holes to allow you to ensure the motor is visually mounted parallel with the spindle axis. (Note: If chip guard is to be mounted, its attachment screw replaces one of these mounting screws.
The advantages of Sherline's DC motor and electronic speed control Sherline's 90 volt DC motor is very smooth and powerful, particularly at low RPM. The specially designed electronics package also provides some unique advantages in addition to smooth speed control with a usable speed range of 70 to 2800 RPM. A special circuit compensates for load, helping to keep RPM constant.
Thermal protection is built into your motor to make sure it is not damaged by overloading. Use good common sense when operating the motor, and it will provide many years of trouble free operation. Operation of the motor and electronic speed control The lathe is supplied with an electronic speed control that produces a comprehensive range of speeds suitable for all operations. Special circuitry designed into the DC motor speed control automatically compensates for speed changes due to increased load.
Mounting the headstock to the lathe or mill You may notice that the post onto which the headstock mounts is a loose fit where it projects from the lathe bed or column saddle. This is normal, and the diagram below will help you understand how it works. FIGURE 7-Cross section of headstock showing locking screw. The screw in the front center of the headstock has a cone point. The pivot pin has a tapered slot with a corresponding angle.
FIGURE 8-Headstock and alignment key in position over lathe. The headstock is aligned with the lathe bed or column saddle with a precision ground key that fits into keyways in both parts. It is not square in cross section so it will fit in only one direction. Push the headstock firmly against it as you tighten the hold down screw. The mill headstock has two keyways milled into it so it can be mounted in conventional fashion or at a 90° angle for horizontal milling.
Mounting the mill and lathe to a board FIGURE 9-Machines mounted to a base board for stability. Mounting the lathe to a board is necessary because of the narrow base. This keeps the machine from tipping. We recommend mounting the lathe on a piece of pre-finished shelf material which should be available from your local hardware store. (See below for sizes.) The machine can be secured to the board using four 10-32 screws with washers and nuts.
FIGURE 10-Plans for mounting board hole patterns. Confirm actual dimensions from your lathe or mill before drilling. The newly added model 2000 multi-direction mill can be mounted to a board 12" x 18" in a similar fashion. The mill may be mounted in a similar manner on a 10" x 12" to 12" x 24" pre-finished shelf board with rubber feet using 10-32 x 1" screws to attach the mill to the board. To keep your Sherline tools clean, soft plastic dust covers are available.
ADJUSTMENTS Two-speed pulley The normal pulley position, which is placing the belt on the larger motor pulley and smaller headstock pulley, will suffice for most of your machining work. Moving the belt to the other position (smaller motor pulley, larger headstock pulley) will provide additional torque at lower RPM. It is particularly useful when turning larger diameter parts with the optional riser block in place. FIGURE 11-The two pulley positions.
of high speed operation may bring about excessive temperature. If this is your case, the preload may be reduced slightly. To change the adjustment, remove the spindle pulley, loosen the set screw in the preload nut and back the preload nut off four degrees of rotation (counter clockwise). The bearings are lightly pressed into the case, so the inner race will not move without a sharp tap with a plastic mallet to the end of the spindle where the pulley is attached.
"Y" axis until snug. Replace the locking plate and tighten the pan head screw. With the anti-backlash nuts properly adjusted, the lead screws will turn smoothly and have no more than the proper .003" to .005" of backlash. FIGURE 12-Backlash Adjustment. NOTE: A new lock now uses a star gear rather than the pointer to locate the anti-backlash nut, and a button head socket screw locks it in place. This system is easier to use, but the function is essentially the same.
metric models. Keep the screws clean, oiled and free from chips. The handwheels are quite accurate and should be used accordingly. Aligning the head and tailstock The versatile feature of Sherline machines that allows the headstock to be removed or rotated for taper turning and angle milling keeps us from being able to lock the headstock in perfect alignment. Precision ground alignment keys and accurate adjustment at the factory, however, make the machines highly accurate.
TAILSTOCK-To maximize the machine's tailstock alignment, first make sure that there are no chips caught in the dovetail of the bed and no chips or dents in the taper of your tailstock center. Now put a 6" long piece between centers and take a long, light test cut. Measurements at either end will tell you if you need to use an adjustable tailstock tool holder in the tailstock to achieve better tailstock alignment.
FIGURE 13-Directions of Feed and Cut showing (A) Turning work between centers and (B) Facing off a work piece. In normal machining, the depth of cut is set by the crosslide handwheel, and the feed is provided by the handwheel on the end of the bed. When facing off the end of a work piece held in a chuck or faceplate, the depth of cut is set by the handwheel on the end of the bed, and the feed is provided by the crosslide handwheel. (See Figure 13B above.
When a tool chatters it gets dull faster because it must keep cutting through the previously machined surface that has been "work hardened" by machining. As you can imagine, there are limits to how much you can increase feed rate, so the answer lies in adjusting both speed and feed to achieve the proper cut. Proper cutting speed is the rate a particular material can be machined without damaging the cutting edge of the tool that is machining it.
VERTICAL MILLING MACHINE OPERATION (Reprinted from the Sherline Assembly and Instruction Guide, Fourth Edition (1997) CLICK HERE to download the complete Assembly and Instruction Guide, Fifth Edition as a .pdf file. CAUTION! Read all operating instructions carefully before attempting any machining operations! Review Safety Rules for Power Tools before beginning. NOTE: See general machine setup section for lubrication and general machining instructions.
FIGURE 1-Milling Machine part terminology. Note that newer lathes now have an improved, more positive locking lever on the Z-axis leadscrew that replaces the Headstock Friction Adjusting Screw shown in this older diagram. GENERAL DESCRIPTION At first glance, a vertical mill looks similar to a drill press, but there are some important design differences; for example, a spindle that can take side loads as well as end loads and an accurate method of moving work in relation to the spindle on all three axes.
the spindle. (Note: Lighter than normal cuts should be taken when the alignment key is not in place.) The latter method must be used for drilling to keep the drill movement parallel with the machine slide. All machine slides have an adjustable gib to compensate for any "play" that may develop. (See section on adjusting gibs in the "Adjustments" section of the setup instructions.) In August, 1998, Sherline introduced the Model 2000 mill and related upgrades that allows for eight directions of adjustment.
• • • Always try to have one point from which to measure. Do not machine this point off part way through the job. This would leave you with no way of measuring the next operation. Plan ahead. Remember the basic machining rule that says: "If the tool chatters, reduce speed and increase feed." It takes a long time to accumulate the knowledge, tools and fixtures required for many different types of milling operations.
shapes can be secured by epoxying them to a second, more easily held piece of material. The part is then broken loose from the material after machining. A tooling plate (P/N 3560) offers a drillable surface with a predrilled pattern of holes to help mount parts and fixtures while also protecting the mill table and adding further stiffness.
Figure 3-Center drilling a part clamped to the table with the P/N 3012 hold-down set. The newer P/N 3013 step block hold-down set is more quickly adjustable for height and covers a wider clamping range. • • • • • • • Avoid exotic materials, such as stainless steel, unless absolutely necessary because of machining difficulty and poor milling cutter life.
• Do not start off with a job so complex that the odds of success are limited. Making complex machined parts requires a great deal of intelligence, planning and skill. In summary, you should become aware of the fact that milling is difficult, but not impossible. There are many more considerations than just moving the handwheels, and you should not start your first step until your last step has been determined.
FIGURE 4- Boring the inside of a hole to exact size with a boring tool held in a boring head. STANDARD MILLING VS. CLIMB MILLING It is important to understand that the cutting action of a milling cutter varies depending upon the direction of feed. Study the relationship of cutting edges to the material being cut as shown in Figure 5. Note that in one case the tool will tend to climb onto the work, whereas in the other case the tool will tend to move away from the cut.
FIGURE 5-Standard vs. climb milling. (For clarity, consider the cutter moving, although it is actually the part that moves while the cutter remains in one place.) WORKING TO SCRIBED LAYOUT LINES A common practice when working with a mill is to lay out the hole centers and other key locations using a height gauge and a surface plate. A coloring (usually deep blue) called layout fluid or "Dykem" is brushed or sprayed on a clean surface of the part.
indicator with a large face or one that reads in finer divisions is not necessary for use with this mill. Three major tasks that can be accomplished with an indicator are: 1. Checking the squareness of a setup. 2. Finding the center of a hole. 3. Aligning the work with the machine. FIGURE 6-Indicating in the jaws of a vise. Shown is a Starret "Last Word" Indicator. Starret gauges are available in numerous sizes and types.
FIGURE 7-Indicating in the center of a hole. A vise can be mounted or a part can be clamped down exactly parallel with the machine slides by holding the test indicator stationary and moving the slide with which you wish to align. When "indicating in" a vise, always take the reading on the fixed jaw. To start with, use approximately .005" indicator deflection from neutral. Remember that excessive pressure can cause inaccurate readings.
FIGURE 8--Indicating in a 30° head tilt using a mill vise and draftsman's triangle. The squareness of your machine may also be checked with an indicator. For instance, alignment of the head can be checked by offsetting the indicator in the spindle so the tip will move on a 5-inch diameter circle. The amount of reading relative to the table is the amount of error. Don't be discouraged to find a few thousandths of an inch error in your machine.
LOCATING THE EDGE OF A PART IN RELATION TO THE SPINDLE There are two quick methods of "picking up an edge" of a part on a mill. The first is to put a shaft of known diameter in the spindle and see that it runs perfectly true. Using a depth micrometer against the edge of the part, measure the distance to the outside diameter of the shaft. To that dimension add 1/2 the known shaft diameter. You now have the distance from the edge of the part to the centerline of the spindle.
DETERMINING DEPTH OF CUT There are no firm rules other than common sense for determining depth of cut. A .030" cut depth with a 3/16" end mill in aluminum could be considered light, but .003" cut depth in steel with a 1/32" diameter end mill would break to cutter. Start with very light cuts and gradually increase the depth until satisfactory results are achieved. Try to develop the skill of knowing how much cut is satisfactory without breaking the cutter or damaging the work.
SPEED ADJUSTMENT CHART END MILLS (Slot and side milling) MATERIAL CUT SPEED (S.F.M.) 1/8" DIA. 1/4" DIA. 3/8" DIA.
CUTTING TOOLS AND STANDARD ACCESSORIES END MILLS End mills are the standard vertical mill cutting tools. We recommend 3/8" shank end mills held in the 3/8" end mill holder P/N 3079. One of the benefits of 3/8" end mills is they are available in a large range of sizes. The end mill is held with a set screw on its flat surface and it can be easily changed. They are also lower in price than miniature cutters because of their popularity.
FIGURE 13-3/8" End Mill Holder 3/8" END MILL HOLDER (P/N 3079) The 3/8" end mill holder makes it easy to use the popular (and less expensive) 3/8" end mills. Using double ended end mills is economical and easy with this holder as tools are changed by simply loosening a set screw and changing the tool. The holder is now also available to hold smaller size tools in the same manner. The 3/16" end mill holder is P/N 6080 and the 1/4" end mill holder is P/N 6079.
a one-inch diameter drill even if one could be obtained that would fit. However, holes of even larger diameters can be accurately bored to size with a little patience and care. FIGURE 15-Boring Head and Boring Tool. P/N 3061 is for 1/4" (6.4mm) min. diameter by .60" (15.2mm) max. depth hole. P/N 3063 is for 5/16" (7.0mm) min. dia. by 1.0"(25mm) max. depth hole. Both have a 3/8" diameter shaft.
FIGURE 16-Standard flycutter (left) and inserted tip flycutter (rigit) with their drawbolts. FLYCUTTERS (P/N 3052 and P/N 7620) For machining flat surfaces, the flycutter shown in the SHERLINE Tool & Accessory Catalog is recommended. It is imperative that the tool be used with utmost care. EYE PROTECTION IS A MUST, and the work as well as the cutting tool must be properly held. The big advantage of a flycutter is its ability to take light cuts up to 2" wide and to give an excellent surface finish.
FIGURE 17-A typical setup for flycutting. For those who prefer the advantages of working with inserted carbide tip tools, the P/N 7620 flycutter is available. It uses replaceable carbide cutting inserts which last longer than steel tools without sharpening, plus they provide an excellent finish on hard to machine materials like cold rolled and stainless steels. The cutter shape allows it to cut a straight shoulder on a part, something not possible with a standard flycutter.
improperly sharpened drill can cut oversize by as much as 10%. When you start to drill, the initial penetration should be no more than twice the diameter of the hole before you retract the drill, clear the chips and add coolant with the tip of a small brush. From then on, do not try to drill deeper than the diameter of the drill without clearing the chips and adding coolant.
00 1/8 .025 1/16 1-1/4 0 1/8 .031 1/16 1-1/4 1 3/16 .046 3/64 1-1/4 2 3/16 .078 5/64 1-7/8 3 1/4 .109 7/64 2 FIGURE 19-Table of commonly available center drill sizes FIGURE 20-The SHERLINE Mill vise MILL VISE SET (P/N 3551) The vise shown here and in figures 42 and 44 is furnished with special clamps that allow it to be clamped in any position on the mill table. The vise capacity is 2 inches.
FIGURE 21-SHERLINE's 4" Rotary Table 4" ROTARY TABLE (P/N 3700) The rotary table mounts to the mill table and provides a rotary axis for milling. Each increment on the handwheel represents 1/10° of rotation, so a circle can be divided into 3600 segments without interpolation. 72 handwheel revolutions rotate the table one time. It can be used to mill a radius on a part, cut a circular slot or drill precision circular hole patterns.
FIGURE 22-The Horizontal Milling Conversion turns the standard SHERLINE vertical mill into a horizontal mill. This greatly expands the operations that can be completed on the mill. HORIZONTAL MILLING CONVERSION (P/N 6100) A number of milling operations require the application of the cutting tool from the side rather than from the top. A 3/4" thick aluminum base 10.5" x 12.5" allows the mill column to be mounted separately from the base for a variety of milling configurations.
vertical milling column, knurling tool, a live center and many others. Remember that accessories and attachments must be cared for in the same way as the lathe. Always make sure that threads are free from metal chips and dirt. Chucks should be lightly oiled frequently so that they continue to function smoothly and accurately. Gears in the thread cutting attachment should be lightly greased when in operation.
PART NUMBERS AND DESCRIPTIONS, SHERLINE LATHES AND MILLS KEY TO MATERIALS: A=Aluminum, B=Brass, C=Composite, DC=Die Cast, P=Plastic, U=Urethane, S=Steel PART NO. DESCRIPTION MATERIAL 12970 Headstock Spacer Block (Deluxe Mill) 30220 Toggle Switch Retaining Ring S 30230 Toggle Switch -- 31080 10-32 x 3/8" Flat Pt. Set Screw S Oversize Handwheel, Inch (Metric) A 34000 (34100) 34060 34200 (34300) A/S Thrust Bearing Washer Set Ball 2" Zero Adjust. Hndwhl. Asby.
40070 40080 (41040) Faceplate 1-5/8" Handwheel, X Axis/Leadscrew, Inch (Metric) Diecast A 40090 Drive Dog 40100 Headstock Casing A 40120 15" Lathe Bed S 40160 Preload Nut S Saddle Nut, Inch (Metric) B Tool Post A 40200 (41200) Leadscrew, Inch (Metric) S 40220 (41220) Feed Screw, Inch (Metric) S 40230 Headstock Spindle S 40240 Headstock Pivot Pin, Lathe S 40250 Tool Post Tee Nut S 40260 Head Key S Tailstock Spindle, Inch (Metric) S 40280 Thrust Collar S 40300 Leadscr
40420 Headstock Bearing Ball 40440 Self Tapping Screw S 40500 10-24 x 7/8" Skt. hd. Cap Screw S 40510 10-32 x 3/8" Skt. Hd. Cap Screw S 40520 10-32 x 3/16" Cup Pt. Set Screw S 40530 5-40 x 3/8" Skt. Hd. Cap Screw S 40540 5/16-18 x 3/4" Cone Pt. Set Screw S 40550 5/32" Hex Key S 40560 3/16" Hex Key S 40570 3/32" Hex Key S 40580 Spindle Bar S 40590 1/4" I.D. Washer S 40600 10-32 x 1/4" Flat Pt.
40980 Crosslide Gib Composite 40990 Saddle Gib Composite 41080 6-32 Hex Nut S 41110 Tailstock Casing A 41130 DC Speed Control Knob and Set Screw 43100 DC Motor Standoff A 43110 DC Speed Control Case P 43120 DC Speed Control Hinge Plate P 43130 DC Speed Control Cover Mounting Plate P 43140 DC Speed Control Tab, Small P 43150 DC Speed Control Tab, Large P 43160 Belt Guard, Outer P 43170 6-32 x 1-3/8" Pan Hd. Screw S 43180 Belt Guard, Inner P 43190 #2 x 1/4" Flat Hd.
45030 Column Bed S 45040 Saddle, Z Axis A 45070 Lock, Teflon P 45170 Column Saddle Lock P 45180 3/16" Ball Bearing S 45190 #10 Type B Washer S 45200 Leadscrew Thrust, Bored S 45450 or 45460 45450=DC Motor with externally replaceable brushes (Leeson) 45460=DC Motor with externally replaceable brushes (Hill House) (NOTE: We purchase motors from two different manufacturers to keep pricing competitive.
50220 1/4-20 x 1-3/4" Skt. Hd.
