Sherline Lathe User Guide and Specifications

machine cuts as straight as you can measure. There should be enough movement
available without removing the key, as its factory placement is quite accurate.
Take another test cut and remeasure. Repeat this procedure until you have achieved the
level of perfection you seek. Then stand the lathe on end with the alignment key pointing
up and put a few drops of LocTite™ on the joint between key and headstock. Capillary
action will draw the sealant in, and when it hardens, the key will be locked in place. We
prefer this method to "pinning" the head with 1/8" dowel pins, because it offers you the
option to change your mind. The headstock can be removed by prying with a screwdriver
blade in the slot between the bottom of the headstock and the lathe bed to break the
LocTite™ loose should you wish to be able to rotate the headstock again.
TAILSTOCK-To maximize the machine's tailstock alignment, first make sure that there
are no chips caught in the dovetail of the bed and no chips or dents in the taper of your
tailstock center. Now put a 6" long piece between centers and take a long, light test cut.
Measurements at either end will tell you if you need to use an adjustable tailstock tool
holder in the tailstock to achieve better tailstock alignment. We manufacture adjustable
tailstock tool holders (P/N 1202 & 1203) and an adjustable live center (P/N 1201) which
can help you attain near perfect alignment at the tailstock should your job require it.
Instructions for their use are included with each item.
Remember that unless you drill very small holes (less than 1/64") or turn a lot of long
shafts, you are giving up a very useful feature to solve a problem which can usually be
handled with a few passes of a good mill file. The inaccuracy inherent in any drill chuck
is such that perfect machine alignment is meaningless unless you use adjustable tailstock
tool holders.
Use of cutting oils and lubricants
Much can be written about the use of lubricants, but they may usually be dispensed with
where production rates are not very important. A small amount of any kind of oil applied
with a small brush will be sufficient. Aluminum and its alloys may require the use of
cutting oils to prevent the chips from welding to the tool's point. Do not use oils with a
low flash point or a bad smell. If desired, a mixture of one part soluble oil to six parts
water may be used on steel to assist in producing a smoother finish and reduce tool
chatter when parting off. Brass and cast iron are always turned dry. Cutting lubricants
should be cleaned off the tools after use.
Cutting oils can be purchased at an industrial supply store. We used to sell cutting oil, but
dropped it from the line because we received so few orders. We assume our customers
prefer to purchase their cutting oil from local sources. Do not use high sulfur pipe thread
cutting oil. It is good for hard to machine materials, but is so dirty to work with we do not
recommend it. We also find some of the tap cutting fluids are too smelly and unpleasant
to use for general machining.