Instructions

When reversing jaws, be sure not to force a jaw onto the guide rails with the screw. "Wiggle" the jaw as
the screw is advanced until the jaw moves in unison with the screw without binding.
If an off balance part has to be run, be sure to turn the motor on at a low RPM setting and bring the
speed up slowly; never go past the point that the machine starts to vibrate.
Replacing Worn Or Damaged Jaws
Should the chuck jaws ever become worn or damaged, we recommend you return your chuck to the
factory where we will replace the jaws and assure that the chuck is adjusted within tolerances. If the
chuck body is damaged, replacement of the entire chuck is usually more economical than attempting to
repair the body. If you wish to attempt the replacement of a jaw or jaws yourself, measure the width of
the jaw you're replacing carefully with a micrometer, and give us the dimension so we can assure a
perfect replacement.
Removing the chuck from the spindle
The large size of the 4-jaw body makes it easier to grip than the thinner 3-jaw chuck. The chuck
unscrews counter-clockwise. You should be able to unscrew it from the spindle by hand by holding the
spindle pulley with your other hand. If the chuck becomes stuck on the spindle thread, unscrew two
opposite jaws until they stick out about 1/4" past the chuck body. With a plastic mallet, give the jaws a
sharp tap to loosen the thread. This should break the thread loose and the chuck can then be unscrewed
by hand. If you are holding a small part and do not want to lose your setup by backing off one or two
jaws, use a block of wood against the side of one of the jaws near the outside edge or the point of the
block of wood in one of the jaw screw holes and tap sharply on it with a mallet to break the chuck
loose.
Joe Martin, President and Owner
SHERLINE Products
Replacement Parts List
NO. REQ. PART NO. DESCRIPTION
1 1144 Set of 4 Chuck Jaws*
1 1146 4-Jaw Chuck Screw*
* Both P/N 1030 and P/N 1044 chucks use same size jaws and screw.