Installation Guide

ManualsBrandsShaw ManualsFlooringOasis Seashore 12 in. x 24 in. Resilient Vinyl Tile (28.31 sq. ft.)

! WARNING! DO NOT SAND, DRY SWEEP, DRY SCRAPE, DRILL, SAW,

BEADBLAST OR MECHANICALLY CHIP OR PULVERIZE EXISTING RESILIENT

FLOORING, BACKING, LINING FELT, ASPHALTIC “CUTBACK” ADHESIVES

OR OTHER ADHESIVES.

These products may contain either asbestos fibers and/or crystalline silica. Avoid creating dust. Inhalation

of such dust is a cancer and respiratory tract hazard. Smoking by individuals exposed to asbestos fibers

greatly increases the risk of serious bodily harm. Unless positively certain that the product is a non-

asbestos-containing material, you must presume it contains asbestos. Regulations may require that the

material be tested to determine asbestos content and may govern the removal and disposal of material. See

current edition of the Resilient Floor Covering Institute (RFCI) publication Recommended Work Practices

for Removal of Resilient Floor Coverings for detailed information and instructions on removing all

resilient covering structures. For current information go to www.rfci.com

C. Existing Floor Coverings

● Vinyl tile with attached pad flooring can be installed over most existing hard–surface

floor coverings, provided that the existing floor surface is clean, flat dry and structurally

sound.

● Existing sheet vinyl floors should not be heavily cushioned and not exceed more than one

layer in thickness. Soft underlayment and soft substrates will compromise the product's

locking ability as well as diminish its indentation resistance.

● Installation is NOT allowed over any type of carpet.

● Do NOT install over wood floors adhered to concrete.

● Never use solvents or citrus adhesive removers to remove old adhesive residue. Solvent

residue left in and on the subfloor may affect the new floor covering.

III. INSTALLATION

Floating Installation

Vinyl tile with attached pad flooring is designed to be installed utilizing the floating method.

Never secure the tiles to the subfloor when using the floating installation method. Do not

install cabinets or fixed objects on top of the flooring. Proper expansion space (5/16”), 8mm is

required. Undercut all door jambs. Do not fasten wall moldings and or transition strips to the

tiles.

Tile patterns must be installed in a staggered (offset) brick pattern.

1. Before you start with the installation, it is important to determine the layout of the

flooring. Proper planning and layout will prevent having narrow tile widths at wall

junctures or very short length pieces at the end of rows.

2. Install the tiles parallel to the longest exterior wall.

3. Determine if the starter row will need to be cut. If the first row of tile does not need

to be trimmed in width, it will be necessary to cut off the unsupported tongue so that

a clean, solid edge shows towards the wall.

4. Installation of the product must start from the left side of the room, working to the

right when working in front of the tiles or facing the starting wall.

5. Install the second tile in the row by angling the end tongue into the end groove of

the first tile. Be careful not to bend the corner of the tile. Maintain an expansion gap

of approximately 5/16" - 8mm from the wall. Start the second row by cutting a tile

to the desired length. Keep in mind that the tile must not be shorter than 6" (15cm)

to achieve the best appearance.

6. Install the first tile in the second row by inserting the long side tongue into the

groove of the tile in the first row. This is best done with a low angle of the tile.

Maintain pressure into the side seam as you rotate the tile to the subfloor. Install the

second tile in the second row by inserting the short end tongue into the previously

installed tile groove. Align the tile so that the long side tongue tip is positioned just

over the groove lip of the tile in the first row. Working from the end seam, at a low

angle, insert the long tongue into the groove of the adjoining tile. Very little force is

required to seat the tongue into the groove. You should feel the tongue lock into the

groove.

7. Work across the length of the room installing tiles along the wall in the first row and

then aligning the tiles in the second row. It is critical to keep these two rows straight

and square, as they are the “foundation” for the rest of the installation. Check

squareness and straightness often.

8. Cut the last tile in the first row and leave an expansion gap of around 5/16" - 8mm.

Tiles may be cut with a utility knife using the “score and snap” technique. The

leftover of this tile may be used to start the third row if it’s a minimum 6" - 15cm

long.

9. Continue installing tiles and make sure to achieve a random appearance with end

pieces of minimum 6" - 15cm. Check that all tiles are fully engaged; if a slight

gapping is found, the gap can be tapped together by using a tapping block and a

scrap of flooring to cover the tapping block in order to avoid damages on the tiles.

10. When fitting under door casings, etc., a flat pull bar may be used to assist in locking

the tiles.

11. When fitting around obstacles or into irregular spaces, tiles can be cut easily and

cleanly using a utility knife with a sharp blade. It is often beneficial to make a

cardboard template of the area and transfer this pattern to the tile.

12. Protect all exposed edges of the flooring by installing wall moulding and/or

transition strips. Make sure that no tile will be secured in any way to the sub floor.

13. For wet areas such as bathrooms caulk the perimeter of the floor with a silicone

caulk.

14. Protect the finished flooring from exposure to direct sunlight to reduce fading and

thermal expansion.