Installation Guide

NOTE: REFER TO THE ADHESIVE LABEL FOR PROPER
TROWEL REQUIRED, SPREAD RATES AND
INSTALLATION APPLICATION INFORMATION!
EPIC EXTREME – GLUE DOWN METHOD
INSTALLATION FOR GLUE DOWN METHOD REQUIRES
THE USE OF SHAW 35MC OR DMC 140. ADHESIVE MUST
BE APPLIED WITH THE ATTACHED BLADE AT THE 30-35
SQ. FT. SPREAD RATE WHEN INSTALLING OVER
CONCRETE SUBFLOORS!
Before you begin using the following instructions, please refer to
the Pre-Installation Job Prep information above.
Getting Started
1. Select a starter wall. An outside wall is best: it's most likely to be
straight and square with the room. Measure out from this wall, at
each end, the width of two planks including the tongue plus the space
needed (3/8” or ½”) for expansion.
2. Snap a chalk line from these points, parallel to that wall.
3. Prior to installing the flooring, secure a straight edge inside the
chalk line to act as a guide and to prevent the row of planks from
shifting during installation. The straightedge could be a straight piece
of lumber or piece of flooring. Alternatively, the first row can be
face-nailed with finishing nails into the wood subfloor or sprig nailed
into a concrete subfloor.
Spreading the Adhesive
Using the proper trowel, hold the trowel at a 45° angle to ensure
proper spread rate of adhesive. Apply pressure to allow the trowel to
leave ridges of adhesive on the substrate with little adhesive left
between the ridges. This will help to achieve the proper spread rate of
the adhesive. Temperature and air flow across the adhesive can have
an effect on the open time of the adhesive. Urethanes) will have a
longer open time in areas of low humidity and will have a shorter
open time in areas of high humidity. (See Adhesive label for further
information).
Installing the Floor
4. Spread adhesive from the chalk line/straightedge out to
approximately the width of two planks. Install the first row of starter
planks along the chalk line/straightedge and secure into position with
the tongue facing the starter wall.
NOTE: Proper alignment is critical. Misaligned starter rows can
cause side and end gaps to appear in proceeding rows of flooring.
When you have the starter rows complete, you can begin the next row
5. When you are certain the first two starter rows are straight and
secure, spread adhesive 2 to 3 feet wide across the length of the
room. As a general rule, never spread more adhesive than can be
covered in 30 to 45 minutes. If the adhesive has skinned over remove
dried adhesive and trowel new adhesive.
6. Continue to install planks and push them into place. Place the
tongue of the board into the grooves of installed boards and press into
the adhesive. As you continue working across the floor try to
maintain a six-inch minimum space between end joints. Randomly
install different lengths to avoid a patterned appearance.
NOTE: Never strike a rubber mallet or hammer directly on the
flooring to engage the tongue-and-groove. This practice can damage
the flooring and/or the finish.
7. Remove the adhesive from the surface of the installed flooring as
you work – this will help to save time. A damp rag with water or
mineral spirits will remove adhesive. Frequently change towels to
avoid leaving a haze on the flooring surface. DO NOT use water to
remove Urethane adhesives from the finish.
8. As you approach the end wall it may be necessary to cut the width
of the last row – be sure to allow for the expansion space along the
end wall. Once the final cuts are made set planks into place.
9. After the floor is complete remove the straight edge and glue down
the first two boards.
10. Restrict foot traffic for a minimum of 6-8 hours and wait 24 hours
before permitting moving of furniture onto the floor.
11. Clean any wet adhesive from the flooring with a lightly
dampened clean cloth. If the adhesive has dried, use mineral spirits
on a clean cloth. For Urethane adhesive use the recommended
urethane adhesive remover.
12. If specified in the adhesive instructions roll and cross roll floor
with a 100-150 lbs. (45-70 kg) roller at the end of the installation to
ensure proper transfer of adhesive.
When installing unfinished wood flooring, wait a minimum of 72
hours before sanding.
NAIL OR STAPLE DOWN INSTALLATION
GUIDELINES
Additional Tools and Material Needed:
Drill Tapping Block Compressor
Air Hose In-line Air
Regulator
Pneumatic Nailer/
Stapler
15 lb. Roofers
Felt
Before you begin using the following instructions, please refer to
the Pre-Installation Job Prep information above.
NOTE: Our products are not warranted against squeaking, popping
or crackling when using staple-down or nail-down installation
methods. Some squeaking, popping or crackling is normal and
possible when using staple-down or nail-down installation methods.
These symptoms may be aggravated in arid areas or during dry
conditions.
SET UP AND USE OF PNEUMATIC STAPLERS AND
NAILERS
Minor occasional noises within the flooring are inherent to all staple/
nail-down installations and can change as environmental changes
occur. This is not a manufacturing defect and is therefore not covered
under our warranties (see warranty brochure for complete warranty
coverage). You can help reduce squeaking, popping, and crackling by
being sure that the subfloor is structurally sound, does not have any
loose decking or joists, and is swept clean prior to installation. You
should also be sure that your stapler or nailer is setting the fastener
properly, not damaging the planks, and that you are using the correct
nailing schedule.
When used improperly, staples or cleats can damage wood flooring.
If the tool is not adjusted properly the staples/ cleats may not be
positioned at the proper angle and cause blistering, peaking,
squeaking, or crackling of the floor. Some models may require the
use of an adapter to adjust for proper thickness. Test the tool on a
piece of scrap material first - set the stapler/ nailer flush on the
tongue side of the plank and install a staple/ cleat. Should the staple/
cleat penetrate too deeply reduce the air pressure; if the staple/ cleat
is not deep enough then increase the air pressure using an in-line
regulator. The crown of the staple/ cleat should sit flush within the
nail pocket to prevent damage to the flooring and to reduce
squeaking. The flooring manufacturer is not responsible for damage
caused by the mechanical fasteners.