Installation Guide
floor and blind nail using l” finishing nails. Alternatively, drill pilot holes in
the face every 6” (try to drill holes in darker portion of the wood) and install
with 1” finishing nails. Countersink nails and fill with appropriate colored
wood filler – remove excess filler from surface with a clean rag and proper
cleaner.
FLOATING FLOOR INSTALLATION GUIDELINES
(Products 3” or wider only)
Additional tools & material needed:
Shaw T&G Adhesive Hardwood Floor Cleaner/ Shaw
R2X
Terry Cloth towels 6 Mil Poly Plastic Sheeting
Foam underlayment Tapping Block & Spacers
Pry/Pull Bar 2in1 Underlayment
Before you begin using the following instructions, please refer to the Pre-
Installation Job Prep information above.
6 Mil Polyethylene not required over a vinyl, wood, or a wood product
sub floor.
6 Mil Polyethylene required over concrete type subfloors – on grade or
below grade.
Do not install over carpet.
If installing over vinyl, ensure that the vinyl is secure to the sub floor.
Do not install over perimeter glued vinyl.
If installing over an existing wood floor, install the flooring at right
angles to the wood floor.
Secure creaking and loose floorboards with screws.
Do not install over wood flooring glued to a concrete sub floor.
½” of expansion space required at all vertical surfaces.
Note: Larger rooms require additional expansion space. Add 1/16” to
the width of the expansion space for every 3’ the room extends beyond
25’. Dimensions exceeding 40’in length or width – it is recommended to
use a T-Molding for proper expansion.
Getting Started
1. Remove all doors and shoe moldings. Undercut all door casings 1/16”
higher than the thickness of the flooring and underlayment to be
installed. Place a scrap piece of plank and a sheet of underlayment against the
door casing to act as a guide and cut the door casing with a hand saw or power
jamb saw set to the correct height.
2. After determining the direction to run the planks, measure the width of the
room (the dimension perpendicular to the direction of the flooring). The last
row of the flooring should be no less than 1 ½” wide; if it is less, cut the width
of the starter row to avoid a narrow last row.
3. Select a starter wall. An outside wall is best: it's most likely to be straight
and square with the room. Measure out from the wall, at each end, the overall
width of the plank plus ½” for expansion. If the first row requires ripping then
measure from the wall the width of the ripped board plus ½” for expansion.
4. Snap a chalk line using a (brightly colored chalk) from these points.
5. Install Underlayment: Unroll the 6 mil. Poly sheeting overlapping edges 4”
and seal seams with clear plastic tape. Allow the poly to run 2” up the wall
and trim back after installation of flooring. Install 1/8” foam underlayment.
Note: Use of a floating floor 2 in 1 underlayment may be used. Follow
manufacturer’s instructions for application installing the 2 in 1
underlayment.
6. Prior to installing the flooring, secure a straight edge (starter board) inside
the chalk line to act as a guide and to prevent the row of planks from shifting
during installation. The straightedge could be a straight piece of lumber or
piece of flooring. This is temporary and will be replaced as the floor is
completed.
Installing the Floor
7. Insert spacers at walls to maintain the expansion space between the flooring
and the wall.
8. Before starting to glue planks, dry lay the first two rows of
flooring. Working from right to left, install planks so that the groove faces the
straight edge (starter board). When reaching the end of the first row, cut the
plank as necessary to fit. On the first 4 rows stagger end joints a minimum of
16” and then 8” thereafter.
9. Use the remainder of the plank from the first row to start the second row. If
the piece is less than 8” long, cut a new plank in half and use that piece to start
the second row.
10. Lay the remainder of the planks in the second row. Make sure that the
rows are straight and no gapping exists on the sides or ends. Once you have
dry laid the first two rows, remove all the planks in order. You are ready to
begin.
11. Begin gluing the boards; Run a continuous bead of adhesive along the
groove of the short side (width) and the plank’s side groove (length). Proper
alignment is critical. Misaligned starter rows can cause side and end gaps to
appear in proceeding rows of flooring.
12. Install first row of planks with groove facing the straight edge. Work from
right to left. Complete the first row. Make sure there are no gaps between the
boards. Use a tapping block if need to close the boards together. Immediately
wipe away any excessive adhesive with a clean, slightly dampened cloth.
CAUTION: Adhesive that is allowed to dry on the finish surface can be
difficult to remove and may leave a haze.
13. At the end wall use an end pry bar, if needed, to pull the ends of the planks
tight.
14. Continue to install the floor working right to left, repeating the process
until the completion of the floor. Continue to use the spacers on all vertical
surfaces to maintain the ½” expansion.
DO NOT USE laminate straps as they may damage the flooring
15. The last row will most likely require cutting to width but it should be no
less than 1 ½” wide. To do this, lay the plank face up on top of the last full
row installed. Trace the wall contour on the last plank using a scrap piece of
plank and a pencil.
16. Install cut planks and pull into place with a pry bar. Install spacing
wedges between planks and wall.
17. Remove the straight edge (starter row) and install the last row using the
pry bar.
Allow floor to dry for a minimum of 12 hours before removing all spacing
wedges and allowing foot traffic.
18. Install trim and moldings the following day.
Radiant Heated Subfloors
Refer to Website or Sample board to confirm as an approved product.
Non Approved products are not warranted for use over Radiant Heat
Prior to installation of flooring over radiant heat system it is
important that the guidelines are followed in strict accordance.
Failure to follow the guidelines may produce unsatisfactory results.
Floating installation method only, direct glue down is NOT
recommended.
Sub floor must be flat to 3/16” in 10’ or 1/8” in 6’
Prior to installation moisture testing must be conducted and
documented per ASTM test method 1869-89 for concrete or using
a pin type meter for wood sub floors.
The moisture content for concrete sub floors registered after a
calcium chloride test must not be greater than 2 pounds per 1000
square feet of area. If it exceeds these limits, DO NOT install the
flooring.
Relative humidity of the jobsite must be maintained between 35-
55% relative humidity. Use of humidification system may be
required to maintain the proper humidity level. Failure to maintain
proper humidity level can result in excessive dryness of flooring.
It is highly recommended that the radiant heat system be designed
specifically to accept a wood floor
1. Use of an in floor temperature sensor as well as a separate
thermostat for the individual room is required.
2. An outdoor temperature sensor should be used to adjust water
temperature according to anticipated heat loss.
JOBSITE REQUIREMENTS
Prior to installation of flooring the radiant system must be installed per
manufacturer’s instructions.
Before installation of flooring material the follow conditions are required
1. Moisture content of concrete must not exceed 2.0 lbs. per CaCl test
method (ASTM1869-89) Wood sub floors not to exceed 12% and be
within 4% of the wood flooring.
2. Concrete must be allowed to properly cure and dry a minimum of 4
weeks prior to operation of radiant heat system
3. Operation of radiant heat system should be set to run at 2/3 maximum
output for a minimum of 2 weeks prior to installation of flooring to
further allow moisture from concrete to dissipate and reach a final
moisture content. This must be done in both heating and non-heating
seasons.
4. Prior to installation (4 days) reduce to a temperature of 65°.
5. Floating Installation - Install flooring according to floating floor
installation guidelines. Use of a 2 in 1 underlayment is required.
6. When gluing planks run a continuous bead of adhesive in the groove on
both the end and length of the board.
7. Remove any excess glue that squeezes out onto surface of the planks
with a clean damp rag. Change rags and water periodically to avoid
leaving a haze on surface.
For reference purposes only if printed or downloaded.