Installation guide
MN-748
7
3. Secure the stud using at washer (K) and
3
/8” lock nut (J). See g. 9. Torque stud nut
to 16ft-lbs.
4. Tighten the hex head bolt securely to 16 ft–lbs.
5. LATE MODELS have an existing hole that lines up with the top hole in the bracket so
it will not be necessary to drill on these models. On some models the existing hole may
have a plastic stud for a wiring harness hanger protruding through it. Push the plastic
stud back through the frame and use the existing hole to mount the upper bracket to
the side of the frame rail.
If there is a vent tube under the brake line bracket on the driver side, then the upper bracket
will hit on this during installation. This line will have to be relocated on top of the brake line
bracket to provide clearance for the upper bracket.
6. If there is no hole, select one of the small holes on the outboard side of the upper bracket
that is not on the radius edge of the frame rail.
DO NOT DRILL HOLES INTO FRAME BEFORE CHECKING FOR HYDRAULIC LINES,
GAS LINES AND/OR ELECTRICAL WIRES THAT MAY HAVE TO BE MOVED ASIDE
ON EITHER SIDE OF THE FRAME. USING THE UPPER BRACKET AS A TEMPLATE,
CENTER-PUNCH THE HOLE LOCATION TO BE DRILLED (FIG. 10A). DRILL A
5
/16” HOLE
IN THE FRAME RAIL (FIG. 10B).
7. Install
5
/16” x 1” hex head cap screws (H), at washers (K) and
5
/16” lock nut (J). Torque
to 15 ft–lbs (g. 11).
NOTE
Outboard
g. 9
g. 10a g. 10b
CAUTION
g. 11
LoadLifter 5000