Owner's Manual

Earlier ‘07-’10 models tend to have less wiring to move around and some models may have only a single plug & wire as
shown above. Popping the plug out of it’s position (left) and resting it in the little bracket (right) gets it out of the way.
Again, check for full slider movement with no stress on wire lengths.
Last thing to do for clearing a path is to make sure the carpet is in
factory positioning, nicely hugging the metal floor, and to check this
plastic nut that holds the carpet in place under the passenger seat.
Often, the “threads” of plastic that hold onto the metal screw coming
up through the floor can get bent out of shape and not hold as well.
Unscrew the plastic nut and inspect them. If they need to be bent
back the other way, a flat-head screwdriver can do the trick. Just push
them back down the other way until they look like they can hold on
nicely and keep the nut in place. The goal is to get them to grab the
metal screw so the plastic nut stays low. Gently screw it back in place
and it should stay out of the way of the pod. The pod has a nook in it
designed to accept this piece, but it shouldn’t touch it, which could
cause a vibration in some instances.
If you’re using your own shallow-mount subwoofer,
check to see if it drops in the pre-cut hole. Some subs
may need the hole enlarged, which is done easily
with a sanding drum on a rotary tool like a Dremel®.
The pre-cut hole must be made at about 7” diameter
to accommodate those subs with smaller mounting
diameter requirements, so your sub may need the
hole a little larger. You can use a magic marker or a
pencil to mark the plastic all the way around as a guide.
Installing the subwoofer in the pod
Install: Part C