User`s manual

Chapter 11 - Advanced Printing With White Ink
107
Cure the print
Carefully remove the shirt from the Shirtboard and cure. Keep in mind, White ink will need to be cured
longer than standard colors. Cure in a conveyor dryer or Heat Press. Refer to Chapter 10 - Printing
Basics - Curing Your Garments for more information.
If using a Heat Press, place a silicone treated
piece of parchment paper (a common baking pan liner) over
the print and close the press.
When you open the press, peel the paper immediately. The
paper can be used a number of times. After a while, the
paper will develop wrinkles and will need to be replaced or a
wrinkle pattern will transfer onto the shirt.
You will only use the silicone treated paper for curing after the entire
print has been completed. You risk ruining a shirt if you use silicone paper in the Pretreatment phase.
You can also use a standard Teon pad rather than silicone treated parchment when curing the print in a
Heat Press. Teon pads are available from most Heat Press manufacturers.
IMPORTANT POINT
When printing gradient images with White ink, we recommend having two JPEG
versions of the artwork at 150-300 dpi. One version having a white background
and the other having a black. These two les can be created in Photoshop,
Adobe Illustrator, CorelDRAW or even in FastARTIST. Another option is
using transparent les (psd etc.) and use the pop-up window for completing the
underbase settings. Consult your FastARTIST Users Manual for more details.
There is an excellent video tutorial on “Underbasing with Two Versions of
Artwork” on the T-Jet Support page. Refer to Chapter 16 - Product Support for
instructions on logging on and viewing videos.