Specifications

15
TUBE AMPLIFIER OUTPUT IMPEDANCE should be set as low as possible. As a minimum requirement,
you must use the amplifier's 4• connection. If a lower one is available, us it. If your amplifier doesn't have a 4•
(or lower) connection, it probably will not be suitable for driving electrostatic loads as it will tend to roll-off the high
frequencies.
AMPLIFIER INSTABILITY can be a problem if the amplifier was designed to only drive resistive loads, not
capacitive loads like electrostatic speakers. Oscillation may be noticed as a harsh quality in the high frequencies
and/or amplifier overheating. If this happens, try a different amplifier. Be sure you are not using high capacitance
speaker cables. If a d ifferent amplifier solves the problem, then your amplifier may need service. If different
speaker cables solve the problem, then retire the problem-causing ones.
MOMENTARY AMPLIFIER SHUT-DOWN is caused by inappropriate activation of an amplifier's
protection circuitry. You may experience this problem when playing music loudly and the amplifier completely
shuts down for several seconds, then returns to normal operation only to trip off again a few moments later. It
will repeat the cycle as long as you try to play music loudly.
The problem here is that the amplifier is not designed to drive low impedance, electrostatic loads. Although the
amplifier may not seem to be harmed when it shuts down in this way, repeated activation may eventually lead to
failure of the output transistors. You should switch to a different amplifier.
BUZZING NOISES are caused either by “ground loops” or unshielded interconnects. G round loops
grounding problems with your equipment most commonly your preamp. It is not a failing of any part of your
system, it is simply an interaction. The problem usually is caused by having one or more components grounded to
the mains circuit. Lifting the ground (by using a 3 pin to 2 pin adaptor on the power cable) often will stop the buzz.
Also, it is good practice to have all components plugged into the same outlet strip.
Surprisingly, some expensive interconnecting cables have no shielding. If lifting the mains ground doesn't stop the
buzz, change interconnects. Be sure the test interconnect has a metal shield around a central conductor (“coaxial
cable”). For testing at least, use an inexpensive cable because you can be sure they are properly designed and
shielded.
CROSSOVER/AMPLIFIER PROBLEMSIf one woofer fails to work, check the indicator lights on the front
panel of the Crossover/amplifier. If both lights are on, then check the speaker fuses on the back of the unit. The
fuse holder is the round unit between the speaker binding posts.
To open the fuse holder, press in on the cap while you turn it ¼ turn counter-clockwise. It will release and you can
remove it and the fuse for inspection. If the fuse appears blackened, or if the wire inside is broken, replace it.
Some fuses are ceramic and you cannot see inside. If so, you will either need to measure the fuse with an ohm
meter or substitute a new fuse to see if that solves the problem. A pair of spare amp fuses are supplied with the
crossover/amp.