Specifications

depths without obstructing the view.
This will give me the 2nd, 4th, 6th
and 8th cuts. Having these depths
right off the bat makes getting a
completed key easier. Using these
cuts, I only have to impression cuts 1,
3 and 5 to have a key that will work
the doors and trunk. Then, I simply
progress the seventh cut to generate a
key that will work the ignition.
To make things even easier, I know
that these locks have a MACS of two.
That means, if my sixth cut is a four
and my eighth cut is a one, my
seventh cut can only be a two or a
three. I’m sure someone can figure out a
progression chart for these locks based
on the known cuts of the ignition.
If you try this and the numbers on
the bottom wafers are covered with
grease, just use a little spray lubricant
like WD-40 to wash the grease off the
wafers and clear up the numbers.
Joel T. Fitchner
Alabama
Silca Key Blanks Winner
Honda Trunk Release Bypass
I was called to retrieve the keys in a
Honda Accord LX. When I opened the
car, the keys were not in the pass-
enger compartment but in the trunk.
Unfortunately, the interior trunk
release lever was in the locked
position.
I have spent a lot of time in the
local junk yard tearing old car locks
apart for the parts and the experience.
I picked this idea up from working on
an older Honda.
With a small screwdriver, carefully
pry the plastic cover up over the trunk
release lever. Once the cover is
removed, you will see a small screw
toward the seat side of the
mechanism. Remove this screw.
Use the screw or a small
screwdriver under the edge of the
lock cylinder and gently pry upward,
working the screw around the edge.
You will be able to pry the cylinder up
about a quarter of an inch.
Now, rotate the lock cylinder
counter-clockwise (toward the front of
the car). This disengages the lock
from the lever and allows you to lift
the lever and open the trunk.
To put everything back together,
simply reverse the process and you’re
done.
Albert W. Christopher, CRL
South Carolina
Pro Lock Pick Set Winner
Latchbolt Lockup
A customer called complaining that
she could turn the lock with her key,
but the lock would not unlock.
Suspecting a broken tail piece, I
headed out for the customer’s home.
By the time I had gotten there, she
had entered through another door,
removed the thumb turn on the
broken lock and literally destroyed the
bolt mechanism trying to force back
the bolt.
Examining the lock, I determined
that the tailpiece and retainer was, in
fact, operable which indicated another
problem with the lock. Closer
examination of the lock showed me
that the bolt was indeed withdrawn,
but the door would still not open.
The door was very tightly fitted to
the jamb and I used a small pry-bar
(like the ones painters use to pry open
painted shut windows, etc.) and
spread the door and jamb as far apart
as possible. What I saw was the two
screws which hold the latchbolt to the
door had loosened and was gouging
into the strike, effectively “locking”
the door.
108 • The National Locksmith
Continued on page 110
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