Manual

Clean and lubricate using:
a stainless or polished steel cleaning rod
(avoid using an aluminum or wooden
rod
- they can collect abrasive residue);
a brass bore brush which threads onto the
cleaning rod;
a supply of patches (ready-made, or cut out of
cotton or flannel rags) and several rags;
an old towel or carpet scrap for your working
surface;
an old
toothbrush or a brass-
"CLP"”
or suitable gun oil.
bristled parts brush; and
Swab the bore (inside of the barrel) by pushing a dry
patch through it with the cleaning rod, always entering
from
the rear, The first pass will push out loose fouling.
Then, using a clean patch damped with “CLP”, do the
same thing again. DO NOT allow the rod to scrape the
edges as it passes through the bore. If you damage the
rifling, the pistol’s accuracy will be affected.
Let the “CLP” work on the bore deposits while you use
a rag dampened with more “CLP” and scrub and wipe
off the inside of the slide (especially around the breech
and the locking lugs - the lugs on the inside of the slide
that match up to the indentations on the barrel), the
outside of the barrel, and the slide stop.
Wipe off the black residue on the face of the breech
around the firing pin hole and under the hook of the
extractor. Wipe off any residue on the barrel bushing
and recoil spring guide as well. Wipe off any excess oil.
After the “CLP” has had a chance to loosen the deposits
in the bore, run a dry patch through the barrel, use a
bore brush if necessary, and
follow it with a patch soaked
in CLP, followed by another
dry patch.
With a quality lubricant designed for stainless steel
(such as FP-10, Energy Release, etc.), put a few drops on the
running, or friction, surfaces in the slide only; i.e., where
the barrel rides, the slide rail surfaces where they match
the frame and on the disconnector ramp. These areas
usually show wear and shiny patches. NEVER squirt oil
into the frame.
Do not over-oil. It can be detrimental to the proper func-
tion of the pistol.