Datasheet

the
pros
know
case
for
gauges
hen it
comes
to marking cut-
lines and laying out
joints,
it's
hard
to beat the simplicity
and accuracy of a
marking
gauge.
To
uncover the
fundamentals of marking
gauge
setup and
use, we consulted
renowned master craftsman
Frank
Klausz. Here's how Frank
gets
the most
from his
favorite layout tool.
What a rnarking
gauge
carr do
for
you
A marking
gauge provides
a fast and
accurate way to mark lines
parallel
to the
edge of
a
workpiece, either with the
grain
or across it. A marking
gauge's
advantage
over a
pencil
is that its
pin,
which Frank
sharpens to a knife edge,
produces
a
very
fine mark that does not broaden, and it
scores the workpiece
for
chiseling and
saw cuts
(preventing
splintering). Here
are
a
number
of
ways
you
can
use
one:
.
Mark the center of boards for resawing.
.
Mark
stock
edges for
joining.
o
Lay
out
lines for cutting
joints,
such as
dovetail or mortise and tenon.
The
gaugets
parils
The basic marking
gauge
consists of four
parts:
an 8- to |2"-long beam, a fence, a
fence-locking device, and a marking
pin,
as shown on Drawing 1. The fence slides
along the beam to set
the required mark-
ing
distance to the
pin.
A locking
device,
such as a thumbscrew or wedge, secures
the fence to the beam at the set
position.
Some
gauges
have a removable marking
pin,
which makes it easy to sharpen the
pin
or
replace it. Also, the beams of some
gauges
are ruled
to allow for direct setting
of the marking dimension
without the
need for
measuring.
One
type of marking
gauge,
a mortising
gauge
(photo
above), has a single
marking
pin
for
general
layout and another
pair
of
pins
on the opposite side of the beam
for
easy
mortise layout. One
pin
is fixed and
the other
slides in the beam to set the
mor-
tise
width.
Letts
get
to the
point
For a
marking
gauge
to
work
correctly,
Frank
notes,
you
need
to
focus
your
atten-
tion on
its
smallest
part-the
marking
pin-and
make
sure
it has
the correct
shape,
projection,
and angle.
.
Shape:
Most new marking
pins
have
a conical
point,
which will tear
wood
fibers
rather
than slice throush
them. To
prevent
this,,
sharpen the
pin
to a
knife
edge, as
shown on
Drawing 1a.
l!
nrru sHAPE
DETATL
Grind
or file tip to a knife
edge and buff smooth.
,m. /i\
ffi
,v
ffiffi \pr
k# Ku
ffi,'--ffi ffi'
:ffi
R.Mffirff
ffi& ffi#
ffiffi ffi
&tr ffi#
F'ffi
ffiF
SIDE
VIEW END VIEW
.
Projection:
For
best
control, adjust the
pin
so
it
projects
t/rs"
from the beam.
o
Angle: Because a
gauge
works best
when
you pull
it toward
you,
angle
the
point
approximately
5o away
from
the
fence,
as shown
on Drawing
1b. The
angled
pin
will draw the fence against
the
edee of the stock
when marking.
Tips
fo-
rrsing a
gauge
o
Because the
fence follows the stock's
edges,
make sure they are straight and
smooth
for accurate
marking.
.
After securing the
fence, recheck the
setting to be sure
it hasn't changed.
Practice marking on scrap
first to verify
the setting.
.
Position
the
fence
asainst
the stock's
edge, and apply
light
pres-
sure to keep
it flush.
Rotate the beam so the
pin
is
at an angle
to the stock
(as
in the
photo
above),
then
lightly drag the
gauge
to
make
your
mark.
|l
Frank Klausz, of Pluckemin,
NJ, works out of
his
unpre-
tentiously
named
"Frank's
Cabinet Shop."
lfit
erru ANGLE DETATL
GAUGE
(BOTTOM
vrEW)
Fence
Knife edge angled
away
from fence
]l
oi,.""tion
Jl
|
31,n"
I lo'"
\--
I
unnrcNc
GAUGE
Beam
8-12"
long