Datasheet

shelf clock
jlCneckthat
the top face-trim
piece
is
f
PIace a dab of
glue
in the stiles'
Aflush
with
the top of the stiles.
'fgrooves
below the bottom
rail.
Glue and clamp a
long filler in each stile's
groove,
slid-
ing it behind the bottom face-trim
piece
and
tight
against
the face. Remove any
squeeze-out.
Then,
glue
and clamp a long filler
(E)
in
each stile, as shown
in Photo B. This
will leave Iz/s" of open
groove
at the
bottom of each
stile to receive the |Vs"-
wide
bottom
rail
(D)
and the V+"
short
filler
(F).
Separate
the stiles from the
faceltrim assemblv.
2
Appty
glue
to the rabbeted ends of
tJthe face
and to the bottom
rail's
tenons.
Now,
assemble the
face, bot-
tom rail, and stiles,
with
the bottom
rail tight against the long fillers.
Clamp the assembly.
Bandsaw the
stiles
to the marked
lines
to
form the tapered
sides. Start
the
cut at
the bottom of the stile. and
finish at
the top. Sand smooth.
Then, install
and
clamp a short filler in
each
groove.
ETo
assemble the back of the clock
9case,
first
apply
glue
to the
rabbeted
sides of the back
(J),
and clamp
it
between the
remaining
stiles
with
their
top
edges flush. Then,
glue
and clamp the
remaining
short
fillers in
the stiles.
fiFrom
t/q"
hardboard, cut a
l7/sx3"
tf spacer for
positioning
the
grille
side
and rail
pieces
(G,
H) in the clock's
front opening, V+" b.ack
from
the
front
edge. See
the
Shop
Tip, below. With
the front assembly outside
face up on
your
work
surface,
position
the spacer
in the
grille
opening.
Then,
glue
the
grille
side
pieces
to
the long fillers
(E)
in
the stiles, and
glue
the rail
pieces
to
the lower face trim
(C)
and the bottom
rail
(D).
Press
the
pieces
firmly down
against
the spacer.
lf
Using a
23/e" Forstner bit, or a circle
I
cutter set to cut a 23/s"
hole,
drill a
centered
hole through the face
(B)
to
receive the clock movement.
llUart
the taper on each of
the stiles
1r(A),
where
dimensioned.
Then, band-
saw the tapers,
cutting
just
outside the
marked lines, as shown
in Photo
C.
Then,
sand
to the lines.
Add
the sides arnd to1r
I
From Vz"-thick stock,
cut two IVzx8"
I blanks for the sides
(K).
Tilt
your
tablesaw blade to
4o from vertical.
Now.
bevel-cut
the
blanks
to their finished
length
of
JtAo" with a 4o bevel on each
end, where shown.
)Ctue
and clamp the sides
to the
&r
front assembly, keeping the top and
bottom ends and the angled sides
flush.
With the
glue
dry,
glue
and clamp the
back assembly to the sides.
When
dry,
remove the
clamps, and sand the
sides
and the top
and
bottom
edges of the
case smooth.
QRrom
t/2"-thick
stock, cut the top
(L)
tfto size.
Rout
a Vz"
round-over along
the bottom edges,
where
shown. Sand
the
top, including a light sanding of the top
edges.
Now,
center the top,
front to back
rlrrilt t f
Prevent
glue
from sticking
to
unwanted
surfaees
Glue
squeeze-out can cause
parts
to
become
joined
where
unintended. To
prevent
this,
place
a
piece
of
waxed
paper
between the suffaces that
you
donft want
joined,
where
possible.
For example, when
gluing
the
grille
sides
(G)
and
the rails
(H)
in the clock's
opening,
put
waxed
paper
on
top
of
the
spacer.
The
glue
will
not
stick
to the
paper,
so
you'll
find it
easy
to remove
the
spacer and scrape off
any
residual
glue.
Waxed
paper
Outside
face
62 WOOD magazine November 2002