Datasheet

Ilashion
a
strrrdy frarme
I
Cut the top rail
(A),
bottom rail
(B),
I mullions
(C),
and shelf
(E)
to the
sizes listed in
the Materials
List. Cut the
stiles
(D)
Vr"
longer
than the
size
listed.
You'll
cut
these to final length
later.
I
Using a dado
blade in
your
tablesaw,
El cut
1/q"
glooves
3/a"
deep, centered in
the
top rail, bottom rail,
mullions,
and
stiles,
where
dimensioned on Drawings
1
and 2. To
make sure
that each
groove
is
centered in
the
part,
turn the
piece
end-for-
end after
the first
pass
and make a
second
pass.
Don't worry
about
making the
groove
a bit wider. You'll
simply com-
pensate
by making
the tenons slightly
thicker to fit snugly in
the
grooves.
QUsing
the
setup as shown in Photo
A,
lJcut a3/s"
-long
test tenon
on a
piece
of
scrap
the same
thickness
as
your parts.
Check the fit
of the
tenon in one of
the
grooves.
Trim
as
needed
until
you get
a
snug fit.
Then, cut the
tenons
on the ends
of the rails
(A,
B)
and mullions
(C).
illMarb
the
locations
of the mullions
'f
tCl
on the top and
bottom rails
(A,
B), where
dimensioned
on Drawing
1.
Dry-assemble
the rails
and mullions,
and check for
correct fit. Then, glue
and
clamp
the
pieces
together.
fMeasure
the distance
between
the
9outer edges
of the top
and bottom
E
GROOVE-AND-
TENON
DETAILS
311/q'
A
stopblock
clamped to an
auxiliary
extension makes it
easy to form
a
3/e"-
long
tenon
on the ends
of the rails
and mullions.
rails. Then,
trim the
stiles
(D)
to
your
measurement.
Now, glue
and clamp the
stiles flush
against the rails.
Machine
tlre
details
I
Rout
a
3/8"
rabbet
Vz" deep
around
I each
of the openings
on the back
side
of
the
frame
assembly, where
shown on
Drawing
3.
To
avoid
chip-out, refer
to the
L
2"
311/q'
41/z'!
61/2"
61/2'
3tl2" Shaker
peg
61/z'
Go in
reverse
for a
srnooth
qrt
Here's
a simple way
to avoid
tear-out when
routing
the openings
on the baek
of
the
frame:
Move
the router
counterclockwise
rather
than
the normal
clockwise
direction.
With
this tech-
nique,
known
as
"climb
cutting,"
you
move
the
router in
a
direction that's with
the rotation
of
the
bit
rather
than
againsf
it. Be sure
to clamp
your
workpiece
securely
when
you
climb
cut;
keep
both hands
on the router;
use a sharp
bit;
and make
progressive,
shallow
cuts.
Practice
on
a scrap
piece
first
to
get
used to
the
cutting action.
Shop Tip,
below.
Using a chisel, square
the
corners of the rabbet in
each opening.
t)
Using a lt/2" Forstner
bit,
drill %0"-
Cr
deep holes
for the
glass
retainer clips,
where
shown. Then,
drill a
3/tz"
pilothole
7Ao"
deep in
the center
of each hole for the
retainer-clip
screw.
QMark
the locations
for drilling four
Vs/a"
holes on the
back of the
stiles
(D),
where
dimensioned
on Drawing
3a, to
form
slots to receive
the keyhole hangers.
Chuck a
5/s"
Forstner
bit in
your
drill
press,
and drill the
outer holes
Vs"
deep,
and drill the inner
holes
:/a"
deep.
(The
deeper
holes
provide
space to receive
the
head of
a wall-hanging
screw.)
Straighten the
sides of
the slots with a
chisel. Place
a keyhole hanger
in each
slot. Then, mark
and
drill
3/tz"
pilot
holes
sA"
deep
(measured
from
the back surface
of
the stiles) for
the mounting screws.
ADill
%" holes
s/s"
deep on the face
''if
of the bottom
rail
(B)
to
receive
the
Shaker
pegs,
where
dimensioned
on
Drawing
1.
Glue the
pegs
in
place.
I
nsseuerv
Location
of
part
e
I
21/2'
L
€d
r
2',
L
fffi"
3/a"
t-I
I
'r/2"
hole
7a" deep
71/+"
'/4
www.woodonline.com
49