Datasheet

vvays to
put
a second
good
face orrl/qtt
plywood
The back
face
of
t/c"
hardwood
plywood
is typically a nondescript tropical
species.
And
that's fine, so
long
as
the back face doesn't show. When it
does
show, cover it with a veneer
matching the
species
on the front face.
To apply
paper-backed
veneer, first cut the
veneer
slightly
larger than the
panel.
Spread woodworker's
glue
on the
panel
with
a shofi-nap
roller.
Clamp
the
panel
and
veneer between
particleboard platens.
Paper-backed
veneers
are available
in the
widest variety of
species.
Because large
panels
require the use of cauls to transfer
clamping
pressure
to their
centers,
we recommend this veneer for small
panels.
Bond iron-on
veneer with
a household
iron.
Just
remember to use kraft
paper
to
prevent
scorching
or marring the veneer. Use a roller or
wood
block
with rounded
edges to smooth the veneer as the adhesive cools.
Although more
expensive than
paper-backed
veneer, we chose iron-on veneer for the hall bench because it's easy
to apply and was available at our
local home
center. Species
selectlon is limited.
To adhere
peel-and-stick
veneer,
pull
back its release
paper
about
tZ"
along the
sheet's longest edge,
exposing
the
adhesive.
Apply this
edge
to the
panel's
mat-
ing edge. Press the veneer in
place
with
your
hand as
you
continue
removing the
release
paper.
Smooth the veneer with a
roller
or wood block.
This is
the ultimate
no-fuss method,
but also the most expensive. Species selection
is limited.
Raise the dado blade to
3/a",
and
,
.<=
--
cut the shoulders
on the
6ft.f
tenons of the upper
rails
(D),
=S\i
as shown
in Photo A.
flDraw fhe cuforrfs in fhe lower rnils
---\-
uprights
(B,
C),
and drill them on
your
drill
press.
Be
sure to drill
the counter-
bores so
you
have mirrored
pairs
of
uprights.
Note that all the counterbores
are on the
parts'
outside
faces,
except
those for the screws that
fasten
the
arms
(G).
Drill these counterbores on the
parts'
inside faces.
||To
form the tenons on the rails
(D,
I
n),
cut
3/2"
rabbets
V+"
deep on their
ends. Make test cuts
in
scrap the same
thickness as the rails, and test the tenon's
fit in the
grooves
of the uprights
(B,
C).
Make
any
necessary adjustments to
achieve a snug fit, then cut all the tenons.
(lDraw
the cutouts in the
lower rails
CD(g),
where
shown on
Drawing 2.
Bandsaw and sand the cutouts.
(f
Cut two
t/+x2t/+x4v2"
blanks
for the
rJbrackets
(F)
and two
zAx4Vzxl1sA"
blanks for the arms
(G).
Make two copies
each of the bracket and arm
patterns
on
the WOOD PATTERNSa insert.
Adhere
the
patterns
to the blanks
with spray
adhesive. Bandsaw and sand the
parts
to
the
pattern
lines.
t flTo
make a mirrored
pair
of arms,
I
tlf
transfer the hole locations on
one
arm to the
face
opposite
the
pattern
by
drilling
t/r0"
holes through the arm. Drill
the counterbores in both arms.
Then
drill
the
centered
s/tz"
holes in one arm
and
enlarge the Vre"
holes
to /sz"
in the other.
t I
Install a Va" round-over bit
in
I I vour table-mounted
router.
and
round over the edges of the arms,
where
indicated on the
pattern.
[ssernble the ends
I
Before applying
glue,
dry-assemble
I ttre
panels
(A),
uprights
(B,
C), and
rails
(D,
E) to make sure everything
fits.
Orient the best faces of the
panels
out-
ward. The stopped
grooves
in the
uprights are slightly long, so keep
the
panels
boffomed in the rails'
grooves,
and
align the
lower rails
(E)
with the bottoms
of the uprights.
When satisfied with the
fit,
glue
and clamp the end assemblies.
!)
Witfr the
glue
dry, cut
3/q"
dadoes
Vc"
Cr
deep across
the inside faces of the
end
assemblies,
where dimensioned on
Drawing
3.
To
prevent
tear-out,
back
your
cuts with a follower block. Once
again,
make certain
your
assemblies are
mirrored
pairs.
44
WOOD nragazine November
2002