Instructions / Assembly

70-196
Step by Step Instructions:
How to Replace Damaged Boards
Step 1:
Use a circular saw to make several parallel cuts on the board that is to be replaced. Then, make several diagonal
cuts between the two parallel cuts in each board, being careful not to cut into surrounding boards, see Figure 1. The
correct depth of the saw blade should be double-checked before cutting. Ideally, a 24-tooth saw blade is used. Note
that the undamaged floor is protected by a piece of cardboard. To further protect the floor, the bottom of the circular
saw could be covered with tape. The saw is used to make two long cuts to the outer edge of each board. Cut in 3/8
inch from each side of the board.
Step 2:
Pick out the pieces of the loose board, and then use the chisel to carefully separate the remaining pieces from the surrounding boards. Be
sure to cut away the Elastilon below the remaining boards so that it is completely removed from the area of the replaced board.
Step 3:
For your replacement board, choose a board with a similar grain pattern as the one(s) you removed. Examine the board(s) for straightness
and correct milling. Measure them precisely. The tongue end of the board will be removed. Use a chop saw to cut board(s), tipping the
board up on edge to cut it. That position prevents the chop saw blade from flaring out and allows for a truer cut than if the board is cut
laying flat.
Step 4:
In order for the board to go in, the bottom of the groove needs to be removed. Use a razor knife to score along the bottom of the groove,
which is then knocked off. Placing another board along the edge of the groove and whacking it with a hammer can help the process. As
always, be careful not to damage the floor below during the process.
Step 5:
With the bottom of the groove knocked off, use a planer to finish the job.
Step 6:
Use a chop saw to knock off the bottom on the board’s grooved end. Then, on the side where you made your original cut, make a cut at a
45° angle, which will allow the board to fit in more readily. Be careful not to angle the cut too close to the top of the wear layer, or it will
leave a gap when the board is sanded down to the level of the rest of the floor. At this point cover the bottom of the replacement board
with Elastilon being sure to only cover the bottom portion. Trim the Elastilon so that it does not interfere with the tongue and groove or
Elastilon already on the existing floor.
Step 7:
Dry-fit each board (not knocking it in quite all the way) to make sure it will go in. Once the glue is applied, especially if you use epoxy,
there won’t be much time to mess around with further adjustments. Where a long board has been removed, it can be easier to put in
two short boards rather than one long one. (Remember to check for joint spacing.) Also, if many boards need to be replaced, remove and
repair only one at a time. If all are removed at once, the pressure of the floor may shrink the gap too much to do the repair.
Step 8:
Use two-part epoxy if you are planning to re-sand the floor otherwise regular PVA carpenters glue can be used on top of the tongues
and at the ends. Glue all sides of the replacement board in place. Epoxy has various set-up times so be careful to allow for this. If using
regular carpenters wood glue there is a wait of 24 to 48 hours before you can sand the floor.
Step 9:
The glue is also applied to the top of the end match. Note that the glue is being used to attach the boards to each other, not the subfloor.
This will allow the boards to move with the rest of the floor. Never glue the bottom of the boards! Never attempt to glue the replacement
to the subfloor below! The floor must remain free floating at all times. Clean all glue residues and add weight to the top of the boards
until the glue has as a chance to set.
For technical or product informations, please contact us at 1-866-435-8665.
Roberts Consolidated Industries, Inc. • Boca Raton, FL 33487 • [phone] • www.robertsconsolidated.com
Figure 1
A1516-10003