F-6100 Service Manual Table of Contents Part 1 – Maintenance M-1. M-2. M-3. M-4. M-5. M-6. M-7. M-8. Cutting Head Pneumatic System Felt Pad Assembly Bearing Carts and Tracks Electronics Enclosure Moving the F-6100 Power Supply Removal Calibration Part 2 – Repairs A. Cutting Head RH-1. Cutting Head Removal & Repair (all) RH-2. Flow Control Valve Replacement RH-3. Removing a Broken Thumbscrew B. Mechanical Components RM-1. RM-2. RM-3. RM-4. RM-5.
F-6100 Troubleshooting Common problems and causes are organized by type (electronic, Cut issues, etc) Please refer to appropriate sectio(s) for more information on recommended corrective action PROBLEM POSSIBLE CAUSE(S) ACTION / SOLUTION(S) Power off or disconnected Check plug connections; turn on main switch Check monitor switch, power strip switch and reset button Rotate E-stop knob clockwise, and press Enable button SECTION Electrical or Basic functions Machine not operating: (can't "Enable") Emer
PROBLEM Cutting head will not "home" (X-axis, Left-right, Y axis, up or down) POSSIBLE CAUSE(S) C-axis motor wire disconnected or damaged ACTION / SOLUTION(S) Inspect Motor control wire and connection plug and pins SECTION RH-1 C-axis driver defective or damaged Run C-axis motor in Motion Console to diagnose Replace C-axis Driver if defective RC-2 RE-6 X or Y motor cable disconnected Re-connect cable(s) RM-5 X or Y motor cable damaged RM-5 X or Y axis homing sensor, cable or connector Inspect
PROBLEM Mat "ripping" during cut Mat not cutting through at all Mat not cutting fully at corners (cut intersections, Undercuts) Inconsistent Under/ overcuts in corners, especially with fabric mats Undercuts at diagonally opposite corners, ovals also look "lumpy" POSSIBLE CAUSE(S) ACTION / SOLUTION(S) SECTION Insufficient air pressure Flow-control valve coupling loose Black air hose connection or fitting to head loose Blade depth not set correctly for magazine Check air supply (compressor), pressur
PROBLEM POSSIBLE CAUSE(S) ACTION / SOLUTION(S) SECTION Gouging or scuffing on back of mat Blade depth excessive, magazine digging into mat surface, (4 or 6-ply magazines) Reduce blade depth until scuffing eliminated. CCW turn of Left depth adjusting screw. M-8 Blade magazine damaged, burrs scratching mat Sand magazine beveled face and edges, replace magazine.
PROBLEM Cutting head/gantry jams violently Scratching/ scoring marks on surface of mat board POSSIBLE CAUSE(S) Possible defective blades ACTION / SOLUTION(S) Try different box of blades, return suspect blades-RGA Improper slip sheet material used; ie: "3X", etc.
PROBLEM Loud squeaking noise during X motion POSSIBLE CAUSE(S) ACTION / SOLUTION(S) X-axis belt(s) rubbing inside or reversing unit block Spray WD-40 on belt teeth to reduce squeaking and/or pulley teeth Y axis border too large or small Y-axis sensor misalignment, often caused by mat jamming behind gantry. Re-position Y-axis home sensor parallel with magnet, fine -tune Home setting in Advanced settings; also check limit switch clearance according to spec.
PROBLEM Blade tips breaking/ bending POSSIBLE CAUSE(S) Blade not fully retracting from mat at end of cuts Bainbridge or Rising board too dense Mat too dense; blade bent or broken Under/overcut setting too small Air pressure insufficient Old-type Flow-control valve on cutting head Excessive blade depth Blade magazine worn or damaged ACTION / SOLUTION(S) Hold down and/or tape mat to slip sheet Cut mat with 2 passes; 6-ply blade first, then 8-ply See above Increase Start of Cut value (~0.
PROBLEM "Mouse not found" message when booting up computer. POSSIBLE CAUSE(S) Mouse not connected to correct COM port.
PROBLEM Run Time Error 13, "Type mismatch" POSSIBLE CAUSE(S) Same as above, Regional Setting issue. Software bug; fractional inputs ACTION / SOLUTION(S) Same as above.
PROBLEM movement, X or Y axis POSSIBLE CAUSE(S) Damaged or defective cart bearing(s) ACTION / SOLUTION(S) of sounds to isolate problem. Replacement required. Isolate axis and cart with bad bearing.
1 Cutting Head Removal and Repairs Head Removal Procedure 1) Shut down the F-6100 normally, and disconnect the main air hose from the rear of the machine (or compressor). Remove the blade magazine from the cutting head. 2) Remove the cover plate over the cutting head by removing the three Allen screws, as shown. (1/8” Allen wrench) 3) Disconnect the electrical connectors to the cutting head motor and C-axis sensor. Pinch the retaining latches together as you gently pull the brown connector blocks apart.
2 4) Remove both the black and clear air hoses from the cutting head. If your cutting head has the brass nipple connectors, pull on the hose firmly until it is removed. If you have the quickdisconnect fittings, push inward on the orange collar as you pull firmly outward on the hose. 5) Remove the four cutting head mounting bolts with a 5/32” Allen wrench, and carefully slide the head off to the right.
3 Glide Pad Cleaning and Replacement 1) Shut down the machine, and remove the cutting head. (See Cutting Head Removal procedure). 2) Remove the glide pad by removing the four flat head mounting screws with a 5/64” or 2mm Allen wrench. You may have to clean the heads of the screws first if the recessed holes on the glide pad have picked up a lot of dirt and debris. 3) Inspect the glide pad surface for excessive wear, by checking to see if the recessed center area is still visible.
4 Flow Control Valve Replacement (part # 12-816) This procedure covers replacement of the earlier flow control valve with the current version, or replacement of a damaged or defective valve. It is recommended that you replace the original brass nipple air fitting with one of the current “quick disconnect” fittings at the same time. (part # 12-817) 1) Disconnect the main air hose from the pneumatics panel on the rear of the machine, or from the air compressor.
5 Please note: Use of an adjustable wrench or any type of pliers for removal or installation of these air valves and fittings is not recommended. Fletcher-Terry will not be responsible for damaged parts or repairs required to a cutting head caused by the use of improper tools. Unscrew existing valve by hand CCW to remove 5) Prior to installing the new flow control valve, it is advisable to pre-set the flow adjustment knob: A. a.
6 C. c. Grasp the adjusting knob in one hand and hold it stationary, as you unscrew the body of the valve itself 5 - 6 full turns. D d. Hold the knob still, and turn the silver lock ring all the way in (clockwise), locking the adjusting knob in place. 6) Screw the new flow control valve into the hole in the cutting head nearest the cutting board, where the small ¼” brass fitting was mounted initially.
7 the hose fitting portion of the valve to the left in order to face it toward the air hose. Use caution not to over tighten the valve or hold the tool at an angle that may cause the threaded portion of the valve to accidentally crack or shear off. 7) Insert the quick disconnect fitting into the cutting head hole nearest you, where the original flow control valve had been mounted. Tighten this fitting with the 5/16” nut driver as well.
8 Removing a Broken Thumbscrew from the Cutting Head This procedure will assist in safely removing a thumbscrew tip from the threaded hole in the cutting head. The thumbscrew may snap off due to a mat jam during cutting, or from over-tightening. 1) Remove the blade magazine from the slot in the cutting head. Pry the magazine out of the slot with a flat blade screwdriver as shown. 2) Press in the Emergency Stop knob, or turn off power to the machine by shutting down Windows normally.
9 4) Disconnect both the C-axis motor and sensor wire connectors, as shown. 5) Disconnect the black and clear air hoses from the cutting head as well. Push inward on the locking collar of the fitting as you pull on the hose. 6) Remove the four cutting head mounting bolts with a 5/32” Allen wrench. Press back on the rotating portion of the cutting head as you pull to the right to remove.
10 7) Optional: Remove the glide pad by removing the four mounting screws with a 5/64” or 2mm Allen wrench. 8) Using a good pair of tweezers or needle-nose pliers, turn the tip of the thumbscrew fragment Clockwise to back it out. Do NOT attempt to remove the four blade slide assembly screws. Doing so will cause the blade slide bearings to fall out, requiring return to FTCO for repair. 9) Turn the screw gradually with the tweezers until there is enough to grab onto at the broken part of the screw.
11 Turn screw CCW from broken end to remove 10) Take this opportunity to clean and inspect the moving parts in the cutting head thoroughly. Use a cotton swab and solvent to remove any dirt or adhesive residue from the moving parts. Insert the new thumbscrew and reassemble the cutting head onto the machine.
Flow Control Valve Replacement (part # 12-816) This procedure covers replacement of the earlier flow control valve with the current version, or replacement of a damaged or defective valve. It is recommended that you replace the original brass nipple air fitting with one of the current “quick disconnect” fittings at the same time. (part # 12-817) 1) Disconnect the main air hose from the pneumatics panel on the rear of the machine, or from the air compressor.
Please note: Use of an adjustable wrench or any type of pliers for removal or installation of these air valves and fittings is not recommended. Fletcher-Terry will not be responsible for damaged parts or repairs required to a cutting head caused by the use of improper tools.
A. 5) Prior to installing the new flow control valve, it is advisable to pre-set the flow adjustment knob: a. Begin by unscrewing the knurled silver lock ring completely, until it comes into contact with the black adjustment knob. b. Then screw the adjusting knob clockwise until moderate resistance is felt. It is not necessary to use great force to tighten the knob. C. B. c.) Grasp the adjusting knob in one hand and hold it stationary, as you unscrew the body of the valve itself 5 - 6 full turns.
D. c. Hold the knob still, and turn the silver lock ring all the way in (clockwise), locking the adjusting knob in place. 6) Screw the new flow control valve into the hole in the cutting head nearest the cutting board, where the small ¼” brass fitting was mounted initially. (Since this valve works with the opposite air flow direction as the original valve, it must be mounted into the opposite side of the cutting head air cylinder).
8) Insert the clear air hose into the new flow control valve, and the black hose into the quick disconnect fitting. Make sure that each hose is fully inserted by tugging on it after pushing inward completely. 9) Re-connect the main air hose to the machine. Make a test cut and check for acceptable amount of over-cut. Open the adjusting knob (CCW), to lengthen the Start of Cut, and close the valve (CW), to reduce the Start of Cut or slow down the rate of blade plunge.
1 Removing a Broken Thumbscrew from the Cutting Head This procedure will assist in safely removing a thumbscrew tip from the threaded hole in the cutting head. The thumbscrew may snap off due to a mat jam during cutting, or from over-tightening. 1) Remove the blade magazine from the slot in the cutting head. Pry the magazine out of the slot with a flat blade screwdriver as shown. 2) Press in the Emergency Stop knob, or turn off power to the machine by shutting down Windows normally.
2 4) Disconnect both the C-axis motor and sensor wire connectors, as shown. 5) Disconnect the black and clear air hoses from the cutting head as well. Push inward on the locking collar of the fitting as you pull on the hose. 6) Remove the four cutting head mounting bolts with a 5/32” Allen wrench. Press back on the rotating portion of the cutting head as you pull to the right to remove.
3 7) Optional: Remove the glide pad by removing the four mounting screws with a 5/64 or 2mm Allen wrench. 8) Using a good pair of tweezers or needle-nose pliers, turn the tip of the thumbscrew fragment Clockwise to back it out. Do NOT attempt to remove the four blade slide assembly screws. Doing so will cause the blade slide bearings to fall out, requiring return to FTCO for repair. 9) Turn the screw gradually with the tweezers until there is enough to grab onto at the broken part of the screw.
4 Turn screw CCW from broken end to remove 10) Take this opportunity to clean and inspect the moving parts in the cutting head thoroughly. Use a cotton swab and solvent to remove any dirt or adhesive residue from the moving parts. Insert the new thumbscrew and reassemble the cutting head onto the machine.
1 REMOVAL / INSTALLATION PROCEDURE F-6100 ELECTRONIC CONTROL ENCLOSURE Removal Procedure 1. Turn off power to the F-6100 system. 2. Disconnect the power cord from the wall outlet/power strip, and from the center rear outlet of the control enclosure. 3. Disconnect the eight (8) round AMP connectors (P201-208) from the top rear panel of the enclosure. Turn the locking collar on the AMP connector counter-clockwise and pull the plug out straight to disengage.
2 6. Remove the two front cover panels from the control enclosure. Using a 3/32” hex (Allen) wrench, remove the six button head screws from each panel. 7. Using a 5mm Allen wrench, loosen, but do NOT remove, the three M8 button head bolts on the right inside panel which attach the enclosure to the frame extrusion. Turn each bolt ~1 ½ turns CCW. Loosen 3 bolts and slide forward to lift off frame 8.
3 Re-installation Procedure 1. Remove the two front cover panels from the replacement Electronics enclosure. 2. Carefully lift the control enclosure onto the lower pulley block of the frame, and align the three M8 bolt heads with the keyhole slots. 3. Slide the enclosure rearward onto the narrow portions of the keyhole slots, then tighten the three bolts with the 5mm Allen wrench securely. 4. Continue the procedure by reversing the removal sequence above. (Cable connection diagrams below).
4 F-6100 PC Connections MONITOR Female socket COM 2 ETHERNET (Open) Male socket COM 1 MODEM MOUSE LPT1 (Printer) KEYBOARD
Computer Disc Drive Replacement All three disk drives (Hard disk drive, 3.5” Floppy drive, and CD-ROM drive), in the F-6100 computer are accessed by removing the lower access panel on the front of the electronics enclosure. Remove all six screws with a 3/32” Allen wrench. Turn off power to the system, and unplug the power cord for safety. Hard Disc Drive (part # 12-801) 1) Remove the three small Allen head screws from the bottom face of the electronics enclosure.
2 Slide entire drive bay housing forward 2) Reach behind the hard drive, and unplug both the power cable connector (white translucent plug), and the gray data “ribbon” cable as well. Tip: You may place a small piece of masking tape on the top surface of each connector to visually aid in plugging them back into the new drive later. Tip: The Red wire in any power connector always faces toward the center of the drive itself.
3 3) Remove the two mounting screws from each side of the drive housing, as shown. Carefully slide the hard drive forward and out to remove it from the drive bay. 4) Slide the replacement drive into the drive bay, and partially insert all four mounting screws. Then tighten all four screws securely.
4 5) Plug the power and data cables back in to the rear of the drive. Carefully align the ribbon cable connector with the pins, then push forward firmly. 6) Plug the power cord back in to the outlet, and turn on power to the machine. When the boot process begins, press the DELete key to open the BIOS Setup screen. 7) From the main BIOS screen, press the down arrow key until the “IDE HDD Auto Detection” option is highlighted, then press the Enter key.
5 No special computer setup procedure is required for floppy disc installation. If a warning message during boot up is shown “Floppy disc fail…”, turn off power and re-check cable connections to the rear of the floppy drive. When boot up is complete, insert a floppy disc and Save to and Open files from it to verify operation. Replace the 3 screws at the bottom of the electronics enclosure to mount the drive housing. Replace the lower access panel as well.
6 CD-ROM Drive Verify that the “jumper” configuration on the rear of the new CD-ROM drive is set for the “Slave” option. There will be a diagram on either the rear or top face of the drive indicating each of the jumper options, usually: “CSEL”, “Slave”, or “Master”. In the CDROM diagram below, the “Slave” setting is the center jumper configuration. Perform Steps 1 – 5 as above.
1 PC Component Replacement The following components may be replaced in the F-6100 PC enclosure: • • • • • Computer (“motherboard”) Modem Power Supply Pentium cooling fan/heat sink MEI (motion control) board Use of properly grounded wrist band is highly advised to reduce possible damage to components due to electrostatic discharge.(ESD) Turn off power to the F-6100, and disconnect the power cord prior to performing any of these repair procedures.
2 2) Carefully cut any plastic cable ties holding the modem board to the intermediate adapter board. 3) Grasp the modem by the steel mounting bracket, and gently pull out towards the front, unplugging it from the rear socket.
3 4) Plug the new modem into the same vertical socket, making sure that the contacts are properly aligned and fully seated. You may replace the cable ties that were initially in place. 5) Plug the modem line back into the “Line” socket on the underside of the modem. 6) Plug the main power cord back in, and boot up the computer normally. If the modem hardware is at all different from the original, Windows will detect new hardware.
4 3) Unscrew the entire cooling fan and heat sink assembly from the motherboard by turning it counterclockwise.
5 4) If the new fan does not have a heatsink attached, remove the four Philips screws from the existing fan, and transfer the heat sink to the new fan. Align the fan and heat sink carefully, and tighten the four screws. Cooling fan and heat sink 5) Screw the new fan/sink assembly into the socket on the motherboard. Do not over-tighten! Pentium CPU 6) Plug the intermediate and main connectors back into the appropriate sockets. Note: the plugs and sockets are indexed, and cannot be plugged in backwards.
6 MEI Board 1) Remove the modem (see above), to permit access to the adapter board. 2) Remove the 2 plastic screws which mount the adapter card to the standoff posts with a small Philips screwdriver. 3) Unplug the adapter card from right to left. Use care not to bend or damage the long gold connector pins.
7 4) Disconnect the MEI ribbon cable from the underside of the MEI board: open the locking tabs on each side of the socket to release the cable plug downward. 5) Unscrew the 3 hexagonal plastic standoff posts from the MEI board – Carefully! Use a ¼” nut driver or just your fingers to remove the posts.
8 6) Unplug the MEI board from the motherboard from right to left. 7) Plug the replacement MEI board into the motherboard, pushing firmly to the right to ensure the pins are seated properly. Apply pressure to the rear socket portion of the board only; avoid touching the electronic components on the MEI board surface. Make sure that the pins are correctly aligned to the socket.
9 8) Screw the 3 plastic standoff posts back into the studs. 9) Plug the MEI ribbon cable into the socket; push alternately on each side of the plug firmly upward on the cable plug until the locking tabs pivot downward. You should hear an audible click when each tab has snapped into the locked postion. 10) Plug the adapter card into the MEI socket, and replace the 2 plastic Philips screws. 11) Replace the modem into its socket, and mount with cable ties (as above).
10 PC Power Supply The computer power supply unit is located on the left wall of the PC enclosure. 1) Loosen the bottom terminal screws and disconnect the U-shaped wire terminals (DC Outputs). You may mark or tape the wires to facilitate re-assembly to the correct terminal.
11 2) Loosen the top 3 (AC input), wire terminal screws and remove the wire terminals. (L - Red, N - White, and FG - Green) 3) Loosen, but do not remove, the four screws (2 front, 2 rear), holding the power supply to the mounting plate on keyhole slots with a 3/32” Allen wrench. Lift up the power supply and remove it from the mounting plate. 4) Hang the power supply back onto the 4 mounting screws, and tighten the screws.
1 Replacing or Upgrading RAM The F-6100 computer comes with 32 Mb or RAM (Random Access Memory), consisting of two, 16 Mb, 72-pin SIMM modules. One or both modules may be replaced if found to be damaged or defective. RAM may be increased by changing to two 32 Mb or 64Mb “DIMM” modules. 1) Shut down the F-6100 normally. Remove the lower electronics enclosure access panel by removing the six screws with a 3/32” Allen wrench. The RAM modules are located at the upper right area of the computer board, as shown.
2 3) Lift up and pull out the upper RAM module to remove. Repeat the procedure for the lower RAM module as well. 4) To replace the RAM module strip, insert vertically, push inward to the right, then pivot downward to lock in position. You should hear a slight click when the module retaining tabs have locked. Always insert the lower RAM module first.
Electronics Enclosure Component Replacement The top half of the electronics enclosure contains the following replaceable components: • • • • X, Y, and C axis drivers* Internal driver cables Transition Board assembly Cooling fan *See Driver Replacement procedure Turn off power to the F-6100, unplug the power cord, and remove the upper access panel from the electronics enclosure before performing any of the procedures below.
2) Disconnect the front green plug to the driver board. 3) Disconnect the Ground wire terminal from the tab on the driver mounting plate.
4) Using a small flat-blade screwdriver, loosen the terminal screws for the small black and clear-insulation wires on the green connector plug. These are the top two wires which lead to a different external socket than the rest of the wires. Remove the two wire terminals, noting the location of each. 5) Follow the cable to the socket mounted to the rear panel of the enclosure, and remove the four screws and locking nuts.
6) Cut any plastic wire ties holding the cable to the other cables, and remove it from the enclosure. 7) Mount the new cable socket to the enclosure rear wall with the existing screws and nuts. Be sure to orient the socket in the same direction as the original. 8) Route the new cable up and over the driver assembly area, and zip tie it neatly to the other cables as previously. 9) Insert the black and clear wires into the green plug terminals, and tighten the terminal screws.
Rear Driver Plug to Transition Board Cables (ECS #’s _______) 1) Disconnect the rear green plug from the driver board (Yaxis shown). 2) Disconnect the corresponding white cable plug on the transition board (X-bottom, Y-center, C- top).
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3) Carefully cut any plastic ties holding the defective cable to the other cables, and remove it from the enclosure. 4) Reverse the above steps to install the new cable. Use extra care in connecting the white plugs to the transition board. Align the connector pins precisely, and do not push in too forcefully, or the board itself may crack.
Transition Board (part #12-809) The transition board links the computer / MEI board to the drivers and other electronics on the machine. Its primary use is for diagnostics, as the LED’s show the status of all the functional circuits on the F-6100 system. 1) Disconnect the two large ribbon cables from the lower edge of the transition board by prying the locking tabs outward. Note the location of the cable plugs by number: J102 – top, and J101 – bottom.
2) Mark the white cable connectors at the rear of the transition board with pencil or felt-tip marker to aid in re-connecting later, especially the three driver cable plugs, (X, Y, and C axis) and the top two connectors, #108 and #109. 3) Disconnect all of the white connector plugs from the transition board.
4) Loosen the 4 Allen screws (2front, 2-rear) on the transition board mounting plate. Hinge open the left side (from the rear), of the rear enclosure panel to allow access to the rear plate screws. Note: Removal of the transition board by removing the four Philips screws is possible as well, but not advised. The nylon spacers between the board and mounting plate will likely fall down inside the enclosure when removing and remounting the transition board assembly.
6) Set the transition board and mounting plate assembly down on a suitable work surface, and remove the four Philips screws. Transfer the new transition board to the mounting plate, placing a plastic spacer between the board and plate at each corner. 7) Place the transition board and plate back into the enclosure, and tighten the four mounting plate Allen screws. 8) Connect all of the cables back to the appropriate sockets.
Cooling Fan (part #12-890) 1) Disconnect the cable connector to the fan by pressing inward on the locking tabs as you pull the connector blocks apart. “Hinge” open the rear enclosure panel by removing all 3 screws from one side and loosening the three on the other side to make access to the nuts easier. 2) Using a 11/32” wrench and 3/32” Allen wrench, remove the four fasteners from the corners of the fan mount. Use care not to drop any of the nuts down into the enclosure.
Driver Replacement, X, Y, and C axis Part #’s; X / Y Axis Driver: 12-907 C Axis Driver: 12-810 This procedure assumes that a defective driver board has been diagnosed, and that a replacement driver has been made available for repair. 1) Turn off power to the machine by shutting down normally. Unplug the power cord from the wall, or from the rear socket of the enclosure. Remove the top access panel from the electronics enclosure by removing the six screws with a 3/32” Allen wrench.
3) Note the orientation of the driver assembly prior to proceeding further. Carefully remove the four (4) screws from the driver assembly with a 7/64” Allen wrench. Use caution to avoid dropping any of the screws down into the computer area of the enclosure! 4) Verify that the DIP switches on the replacement driver are in the proper location. (see photo and diagram). If required, carefully move the switch to the designated location with a fingernail or pen.
1 2 3 4 4 C-Axis Driver Switch Locations 2 3 X and Y Axis Switch Locations 1 6) Plug the main power cord back in, and turn on power to the machine. Enable the system, and attempt to make a test cut. If the machine is still inoperable, Check the fuses on the underside of the main power supply enclosure on the rear of the machine. (See Power Supply replacement procedure). Replace blown fuse(s) with 4 Amp “slow-blow” type fuses, available at Radio Shack or other electronic retailers as required.
Electrical Control Switch Replacement Main Power Switch 1) Remove the power cord from the wall outlet or from the rear socket on the electronics enclosure. 2) Remove the top access panel from the electronics enclosure by removing the six screws with a 3/32” Allen wrench. Loosen the top two screws of the lower access panel.
2 3) Remove the four Allen head screws from the center control switch panel. Pivot the switch panel forward and downward so that the rear of the switches is visible. Remove 4 Switch Panel Screws 4) Note the locations of the wire terminals at the rear of the power switch block. Remove the 4 wires from each of connector tabs.
3 5) Squeeze the four retaining tabs behind the panel, either manually or with the tip of a screwdriver, as shown, and push the switch through towards the front. Use care not to damage any of the other wires connected to the Enable or Emergency Stop switches.
4 6) Push the replacement Power switch through the panel, making sure that the “I” symbol embossed onto the rocker switch is in the upper position, and the “0” is toward the bottom. (see photo) The white printed area of the switch block should also be facing left. 7) Re-connect the wire terminals to the proper tabs on the rear of the switch block. Make sure that the tabs are inserted fully into the terminal connectors.
5 Enable LED and Switch Replacement (Enable Switch Assembly: part # 12-860; Enable LED bulb: #12-862) Perform steps 1 – 3 as above. 4) Using a small flat blade screwdriver, carefully pry the lower plastic retaining tab from the rear of the gray switch relay block, as shown. Then pry the top tab away from the switch, and pull the relay block away. Note the orientation of which wire terminals are located towards the top and bottom of the switch relay block.
6 6) To replace the entire Enable switch assembly: Remove each wire terminal from the rear gray and yellow relay blocks. Attach one wire at a time to the replacement block to avoid the possibility of an incorrect connection. 7) Loosen the two recessed screws from the gray bayonet mount on the back of the plate. Rotate the gray block counter-clockwise about 90 degrees and remove. Push the Enable button cylinder through towards the front of the panel to remove.
7 Emergency Stop Replacement (part # 12-808) Perform steps 1 – 3 as above. 4) Pry off the two tabs at the rear of the Emergency Stop assembly, and remove the relay block from the Actuator. 5) Loosen the two recessed screws from the rear of the gray bayonet mount. Rotate the mount counter-clockwise 90 degrees and remove. DO NOT remove or loosen the center Philips head screw from the rear of the assembly.
8 Rotate E-Stop mount CCW and Remove 6) Remove the Emergency Stop knob/ actuator from the panel by pushing it through from the rear. Insert the replacement E-Stop actuator from the front, and reverse the above steps to reassemble.
1 X and Y Axis Home Sensor Replacement 1) Turn off power to the machine normally, or push in the Emergency Stop knob. Raise the cutting head upward manually at least 12” to access the Y Axis home sensor mounted behind the Y-gantry beam. The X-axis home sensor is mounted above the electronics enclosure on the upperleft reversing unit, and must be accessed from the rear of the machine, usually with a step ladder or footstool.
2 3) Disconnect the electrical connector to the appropriate Home Sensor by pressing the locking tabs inward as you pull the connector blocks apart. 4) Remove the two small mounting screws holding the black (“Hamlin”), home sensor to the aluminum mounting bracket. (3/32” Allen wrench) Note the orientation and location of the sensor on the bracket prior to removal. 5) Mount the new Home Sensor onto the bracket in as close to the same position as the original as possible. Tighten both Allen screws securely.
3 7) Make a test cut to verify that the borders are measuring accurately. It may be necessary to move the sensor and/or magnet on the bracket slightly in order to achieve the desired border accuracy (see below*). Minor calibration (<1/32”), corrections may be made in Advanced Settings, Borders, Home X or Y Axis.
1 Limit Switch Replacement (part #’s: Limit Switch, 12-818, Actuator, 12-819) There are four (4) safety “Limit” switches on the F-6100, one for each edge of the cutting board. The most frequently damaged of the four is the lower Y-axis switch, located on the lower end of the Y-gantry, below and behind the cutting head. This procedure explains replacement of this switch, since it is also the most difficult to access and replace.
2 3) Remove the two small slot-head screws mounting the limit switch and actuator to the bracket with an offset or “stubby” flat blade screwdriver. A mat blade may be used if a suitable screwdriver is not available. (see photo) 4) Pre-assemble the replacement limit switch and actuator by placing the mounting screws through the holes in each. Align the switch correctly, and insert the screws into the threaded mounting bracket holes.
3 5) Tighten the mounting screws securely. Re-connect the wire terminals to the proper limit switch tabs. Replace the bumper and spring onto the threaded post. 6) Turn on the machine, and press the Enable button. If the Enable light does not remain on when released, double check the wire terminals and connections to this switch, and to the other 3 limit switches as well.
1 Power Supply Removal / Replacement The primary power supply for the F-6100 may be removed temporarily, when moving the machine. This procedure also covers replacement of the power supply if required. 1) Shut down the F-6100 system normally. Unplug the power cord from the surge protector or wall outlet. 2) Unplug the cable from the underside of the power supply. Rotate the locking collar counterclockwise and pull downward to disconnect.
2 4) Carefully lift the power supply off the fixed mounting bolts by lifting upward on the carry handles, then rearward, away from the machine frame. Use care to avoid the cables and pneumatic hoses attached to the machine frame. Set the power supply down onto the rubber pads behind the mounting plate surface. Avoid catching on cables and hoses 5) Reverse the steps above to remount the power supply to the F-6100 frame.
Replacing Damaged Cables In the event that a control cable to either the Y or C-axis motors, limit switches, home sensors, or pneumatic hose is irreparably damaged, it will need to be replaced. Replacing a cable is fairly simple, though time-consuming.
3) Using a stepladder or stool, reach up and remove the two small Philips or Allen screws holding the top of the Y-axis cable carrier to the gantry. 4) Begin unzipping the cable carrier nearest the cutting head, one link at a time, as shown. 5) Continue until you reach the top most link in the chain, then snap the link open, as shown, to permit the cable connector block to pass through.
6) Follow the damaged cable up and over the top of the Y-gantry bracket. Cut any cable ties along the top of the bracket to allow removal. Use care not to damage the other cables or hoses. 7) Remove the two nuts (3/8”), from the bottom side of the X-axis cable carrier tray. Lift the carrier chain upward and free it from the tray.
- Continue all the way, until you reach the last link. Unsnap the link carefully, and pass the cable and connector through it. 9) Remove the cable connector from the rear of the electronics enclosure, in this case #205 for the C-axis motor cable. Follow the cable back to the X-axis cable carrier, and cut any zip ties holding it in place.
10) Connect the replacement cable to the appropriate socket on the electronics enclosure. (P205) Loosely route the cable up and along the X-axis carrier, and over the top of the machine towards the front. Use care not to yank on the brown connector or wires when handling the cable. Attach, but do not tighten any cable ties yet. 11) Connect the C-motor connector to the cutting head cable. Attach new zip ties to the L-bracket and cable, making sure to allow adequate, but not excessive slack.
Cooling Fan (part #12-890) 1) Disconnect the cable connector to the fan by pressing inward on the locking tabs as you pull the connector blocks apart. “Hinge” open the rear enclosure panel by removing all 3 screws from one side and loosening the three on the other side to make access to the nuts easier. 2) Using a 11/32” wrench and 3/32” Allen wrench, remove the four fasteners from the corners of the fan mount. Use care not to drop any of the nuts down into the enclosure.
Motor Drive Belts The two toothed belts (part #12-830), should not require replacement under normal conditions. It is a good idea to visually inspect each belt for any damage and for proper tension on a yearly basis. This procedure covers inspection of drive belts and pulleys only. For replacement and re-tensioning of motor drive belts, see the following section. Y-axis motor belt access: Remove the motor / pulley housing from the top of the Y gantry.
Inspect each belt for wear, fraying or other damage. The belts should have equal amounts of tension; you should be able to deflect the belts no more than ~1/4” when pushing firmly inward as shown in the photo. Also inspect both large and small pulleys, and verify that they are properly aligned; the black drive belt must be parallel to the motor mounting plate, as shown. Misalignment of these pulleys can result in failure of the pulley side plate and/or damage to the belt.
Proper Pulley Alignment (Y-axis, view from below) Shaft Drive Pulley Motor Pulley Belt Motor Shaft .375 .375 X Motor mounting plate = X Space between motor plate and each pulley must be equal: ~3/8" * The photo and diagram above show the Y-axis pulleys and belt as viewed from below. The X-axis belt and pulleys will look similar, however, the motor mounting plate will be on top.
Belt Deflection, ¼” maximum Check both of the two pulley set screws on each pulley for tightness, as shown. One of the two Motor pulley (smaller) set screws must be exactly perpendicular to the flat surface of the motor shaft. (A step ladder [Y-axis], and proper lighting are needed to perform this inspection). Use a 1/8” Allen wrench to tighten these screws securely.
Notify Fletcher-Terry if there is any belt damage, pulley misalignment, or extreme looseness of any of the pulleys or set screws. One motor pulley set screw must be perpendicular to flat surface of the motor shaft. Motor Belt Replacement and Tensioning 1) Remove the appropriate motor housing(s), as above. 2) Loosen, but do not remove the four motor mounting bolts, as shown. (You will need a 3/8” wrench/socket and a 5/32” Allen wrench.) Loosen the nuts/bolts no more than 1 - 2 turns.
Y- Axis motor belt removal 4) Mount the replacement belt onto the pulleys, and slide the motor back away from the large pulley. 5) A. Use a pry bar or other suitable tool to create proper tension on the belt, and tighten the mounting bolts as you maintain tension. There should be no more than ¼” of belt deflection when the motor mounting bolts have been tightened.
B. Optional: If you have a belt spreader tool and tension gauge: 1. Insert the spreader tool between the motor and reversing unit block, and turn the knurled ring by hand to spread the tool and create enough belt tension to hold in place. Then use the leverage rod to turn the spreader another half turn or so. Insert belt spreader tool between motor and reversing unit block 2. Place the L-shaped bracket across the two pulleys, as shown. The short bar of the “L” should be over the large pulley.
4. Turn the spreader tool with the leverage rod to increase (or decrease) the belt tension by ~1/4 turn increments. Re-measure the tension with the gauge again several times. Continue this procedure until the tension reading is consistently measured at about 2 lbs. 5. Tighten the motor mounting bolts, and make another tension measurement. The tension will have increased slightly, depending how loose the bolts had been. The final belt tension should not read significantly higher than 2.5 lbs.
screws have usually caused deformation of the shaft itself. If available, you may use a “gear puller” type tool to aid in removal. (see photos) Gear Puller tools are available at most Auto Parts stores. 4) Clean the shaft of any residual Loctite with steel wool or fine emery cloth. Mount the replacement pulley Gear / Pulley “Puller” tool. Align pusher bolt with center of shaft.
5) Remove each set screw and apply a small amount of Loctite (# 242, or similar), to the screw threads. Re-insert the screws and tighten securely, double checking for proper alignment with the shaft and distance from the mounting plate. Large pulley to shaft alignment One set screw in "valley" of splined shaft Cone-tipped set screw Area of detail Splined shaft (early type) Notched shaft (current type) 6) Replace the belt and re-tension according to the above procedure.
1 Bearing and Bearing Cart Replacement If a cartridge bearing is found to be damaged or defective, it will need to be replaced. This section deals with replacement of any bearing in the X or Y axis bearing carts. There are 12 sealed cartridge bearings, 4 in each cart. The 4 bearings in the Y-axis (vertical movement) bearing cart are all accessible without removing the entire cart from the machine. The 2 rear bearings in each of the X-axis bearing carts are not readily accessible, however.
2 3) Remove the 4 mounting bolts from the cutting head with a 5/32” Allen wrench, as shown. Retract the cutting head glide pad from the slip sheet surface, and remove the head by pulling straight to the right. Be careful not to bend or damage the two locator pins on the head mounting plate when removing. 4) Carefully remove the 4 cutting head mounting plate bolts with a 5mm Allen wrench. Be aware that there may be one or more thin “shim” washers placed between the mounting plate and bearing cart surfaces.
3 5) To remove the top felt pad holder assembly from the bearing cart, first trace the location of the Y-axis Home magnet bracket onto the black surface with a pencil. This will aid in locating the magnet in the precise position when re-assembling. Remove the Y-axis magnet bracket by removing the single screw with a 5/32” Allen wrench. 6) Then remove the 3 screws from the pad holder with a 3mm Allen wrench, as shown. Lift the pad holder assembly off to the right, as shown.
4 Remove Pad Holder Assembly from Y-axis Bearing Cart 7) If you cannot determine which bearing(s) are causing the noise, you will need to remove each bearing individually for inspection and/or replacement. Begin by loosening one of the front angled set screws (2mm Allen wrench), which lock the bearing eccentric pivot axle in place. Loosen the screw as far as possible without actually removing it from the threaded hole in the bearing cart casting.
5 9) Using a suitable punch rod or other tool, insert into the access hole on the right side of the cart. With a small mallet or hammer, gently tap the rod to the left to remove the bearing axle. Make sure that the punch is perfectly aligned with the axle, and that you do not strike it too forcefully. 10) Remove the axle from the cart, and the punch tool from the access hole. You may use a pair of tweezers, or ideally, a magnet to remove the bearing from the space between the cart and gantry rail.
6 12) To replace the bearing, reinsert it into position with the magnet tool, and align it as closely as possible with the axle hole. Insert the axle back into the hole and through the bearing hub. Push the axle completely into the hole until it is nearly flush with the cart surface. 13) Insert the long end of a 5mm Allen wrench into the end of the eccentric axle, and turn clockwise until it is “snug”.
7 X- Axis Bearing Replacement (front) 1) Shut down the F-6100 computer normally. Remove the P201 and P203 cables from the rear of the electronics controller. (see above) This will prevent accidental damage to electronic components from manual movement of the gantry and cutting head. Disconnect the main air hose from the rear of the machine. 2) Raise the cutting head upward manually about 2 feet in order to access the lower Xaxis bearing cart.
8 and raise the cutting head upward at least 18”. Make sure that the X and Y axis motor cables are disconnected from the electronics controller first. 2) Remove the urethane bumper, spring, and plastic guard strip as in step 2 above. Then loosen the bolt at the lower end of the cable channel with a 5mm Allen wrench, as shown. Do not remove the bolt entirely. 3) Remove both the left and right side felt pad holders from the bearing cart by removing the 3 Allen screws from each.
9 5) Remove the flat head bolt from the squaring adjustment tab on the left side of the gantry. (5mm Allen) Do NOT loosen or remove the squaring adjustment bolt or locking nuts. (see photo) 6) Remove the 4 mounting bolts on the rear of the bearing cart adapter plate with a 5mm Allen wrench. (see photo) Do not loosen or remove the bolt that mounts the drive belt coupling to the adapter plate.
10 8) Move the lower bearing cart and standoff block gently to the right, while supporting the lower end of the Y-gantry. Move the cart away from the gantry completely. 9) Loosen both of the front bearing locking set screws with a 2mm Allen wrench. Insert a punch tool into the lower access hole of the bearing cart, align with the bearing axle, and tap upward gently with a mallet, as shown.
11 Figure X - Remove bearing with magnet Remove both of the front bearing eccentric axles in this manner. Support the cart from below as you remove the second bearing, and carefully remove it from the lower Xaxis rails. 10) Manually check each of the rear bearings for smooth operation. Replace both bearings at this time if you are unsure of their condition.
12 Side view, Standoff block mounting bolts Standoff block not aligned with bearing cart
13 12) Position the bearing cart back onto the frame rails, making sure that the rear bearings are properly engaged with the rear rail. Insert one of the front bearings and axles into the cart, and tighten the eccentric pivot and set screw enough to hold the cart in place. Insert the second front bearing, and then adjust and tighten both eccentric pivots and the corresponding set screws. Move the cart back and forth several times to ensure that the bearings are all rolling smoothly on the tracks.
1 Replacing Top X-axis Bearing Cart 1) Turn off power to the machine. You may also lower the machine down on its stand to allow easier access to the top of the Y-gantry and top X-axis bearing cart. Refer to instructions for lowering the F-6100 in the “Moving the F-6100” section. Otherwise, a step ladder or stable step-stool will be required for much of this procedure. 2) Remove the Y-axis motor housing from the top of the Y-gantry.
2 5) Cut the cable tie(s) from the top area behind the gantry, as shown. Be careful not to damage the cables or insulation. 6) Loosen the 5mm Allen bolt which holds the top end of the cable carrier channel to the top standoff block. Do not remove the bolt entirely, unless the carrier channel has a hole instead of a slot in this location.
3 7) Mark the location of the top-right (from front), bumper bracket onto the frame extrusion with a pencil. Remove the bumper bracket with a 5mm Allen wrench. Mark bracket location here 8) Remove the vertical torque rod housing from the right side of the machine (as seen from the front). Remove the fasteners from bottom to top: Philips screw, 5/16” hex screw, and then the top 5mm Allen bolt. Slide the entire housing off the frame to the right.
4 10) Remove the four bolts from the rear of the bearing cart adapter block, using a 5mm Allen wrench. Do NOT loosen or remove the single bolt which mounts the block to the X-axis belt coupling. 11) Strongly suggested: Loosen all four Y-axis motor mounting bolts/nuts (5/32” Allen wrench and 3/8” wrench), and remove the Y-axis motor belt. Remove the motor mount bolts entirely, and remove the Y-motor and pulley from the mounting plate.
5 13) Carefully slide the top X-axis bearing cart and standoff block off to the right, and completely off the upper rail extrusion. Be careful not to bump or disturb the top end of the gantry while the bearing cart is removed. 14) Note the location and orientation of the standoff block on the bearing cart. Loosen and remove the two recessed bolts with a 5mm Allen wrench, and remove the standoff block from the bearing cart.
6 15) Mount the standoff block to the replacement bearing cart, in precisely the same location and orientation as the original. Make sure that the block is mounted on the same side as the eccentric-adjustable bearings. Tighten both recessed bolts very securely when the block is perfectly aligned to the bearing cart. 16) Loosen both of the eccentric pivot locking set screws, ~1 turn each with a 2mm Allen wrench.
7 18) Slide the bearing cart and block behind the top end of the gantry, and align the Tnuts with the holes in the gantry beam. Insert the mounting bolts through the beam, and tighten them both securely with a 6mm Allen wrench. 19) Slide the top end of the Y-axis cable carrier channel back into alignment with the standoff block, and tighten the 5mm bolt when the channel is parallel to the gantry beam. Replace the cable tie at the top of the gantry and secure the rear cables into position.
Replacement of Y- Axis Bearing Cart 1) Turn off power to the F-6100, and disconnect the main air hose from the rear of the machine. 2) Remove the cutting head; follow “Cutting Head Removal” procedure. 3) Mark the top edge of the cutting head mounting plate with a pencil, then remove the 4 flat head bolts with a 5mm Allen wrench. Note: check for any shim washers behind the mounting plate, and note the location(s).
6) Using a 2mm Allen wrench, loosen both tensioning screws on the top of the Yaxis bearing cart. Turn each screw exactly 3 full turns counter-clockwise. 7) Remove the two upper belt coupling screws from the bearing cart with a 3mm Allen wrench. Slide the belt and coupling plate downward from the cart, and carefully note the orientation and location of the belt on the toothed plate. You may mark the belt or toothed plate to aid in re-assembly.
8) Remove the two lower, fixed belt coupling screws as well, and slide the belt and coupling downward from the bearing cart. Note the orientation and location of the belt and coupling plate, and mark as needed. 8a 8b 9) Loosen, but do not remove, one of the eccentric locking set screws with a 2mm Allen wrench. Loosen the eccentric bearing axle with a 5mm Allen wrench.
10) Insert a suitable punch tool through the access hole in the right side of the cart, and gently tap the bearing axle free. Remove the punch tool from the cart, and retrieve the bearing. Repeat this for the other front bearing as well. Remove bearing from cart with magnet Remove the Y-axis cart from the gantry rails.
Re-assembly: 11) Remove the front two bearings from the new bearing cart, as in steps 9 and 10 above, and fit the cart over the Y-gantry beam so that the eccentric adjustable (missing), bearings are towards the front. 12) Insert each bearing axle back into the cart, and through the hub of the bearing. Make sure the bearings are properly aligned with the steel tracks, and that the bearing axles are fully inserted into the bearing cart.
16) Align the top end of the belt with the center mark on the cart then tighten the two tensioning screws on the top edge exactly 3 full turns each clockwise. (2mm wrench) Tighten screws after belt is properly tensioned 17) Confirm proper belt alignment, then tighten the top two belt coupling screws securely. Slide the Y-axis cart up and down a few times to check. 18) Replace the two bearing wipe assemblies onto the top and bottom of the cart.
1 Stepper Motor Replacement (part #’s: X-axis:12-897 Y-axis:12-898) The X and Y axis Stepper Motors are extremely durable and should rarely require replacement. In the event of damage to one of the motors or cables, the small motor pulley (part # 12-829), should be replaced as well, and shipped to the customer already mounted to the motor shaft. The motor pulley should be spaced ¾” from the motor itself. A step ladder or stool may be needed when replacing the Y-axis (top) motor.
2 2) Disconnect the appropriate motor cable to the motor being replaced. Turn the locking collar counter-clockwise and pull the plug straight out. 3) Remove the motor cable bracket from the top mounting plate (Y-axis), or the lower frame extrusion (X-axis). A 5mm “ball-end” Allen wrench required. Replace the bolt into the top bearing cart to prevent loss of the nylon spacer underneath the mounting plate.
3 5) Remove all four motor mounting bolts, taking care not to lose any of the nuts or washers. Use caution when removing the Y-axis motor; support the weight of the motor when removing the last of the bolts. 6) Transfer the cable mounting bracket from the defective motor cable socket to the replacement. Remove the four small Allen bolts and nuts with a ¼” wrench or pliers, and 3/32” Allen wrench.
4 8) Place the motor belt back over both pulleys, and slide the motor away from the large pulley to tension the belt. (see Motor Belt Replacement procedure). Tighten the four mounting bolts securely once proper belt tension (2+ lbs.) has been achieved. 9) Connect the motor control cable to the cable socket. Turn the locking collar clockwise until you feel a slight detent. 10) Replace the motor housing(s).
X – Axis Reversing Unit Replacement Reversing units may require replacement in the event of failed or missing internal cartridge bearings. All four X-axis reversing units are mounted to the machine frame extrusions in a similar manner, however, each will require a different amount of disassembly of the machine in order the access the suspect unit. This procedure covers replacement of the top-left (from front), reversing unit, which is the most accessible Xaxis reversing unit.
Remove 2 bracket screws with 5/32” Allen wrench 3) Measure and record the distance of the belt coupling tension bolts beyond the nuts. This will assure accurate retensioning during reassembly.
4) Loosen and remove the two tension bolts with a 5mm Allen wrench, and remove the right side coupling block to the right. Note the orientation of the belt in the coupling hardware for reassembly, and pull the belt free of the coupling.
5) Remove the X-axis home sensor bracket from the rear of the topright reversing unit (5/32” Allen wrench) 6) Remove the reversing unit from the frame by removing the front and rear recessed mounting bolts with a 5mm Allen wrench, and pulling the belt out through the reversing unit.
Remove front recessed bolt (pry yellow strip away first) Remove reversing unit, and pull belt out from front 5
7) Orient the new reversing unit properly (pre-drilled sensor bracket hole is toward top-rear), and thread the belt back through it. Use a steel ruler or other tool to aid in bending the belt through the internal pulley. 8) Mount the new reversing unit onto the frame with the existing hardware. Tighten the front and rear universal (recessed), bolts securely. 9) Re-couple the end of the belt into the coupling hardware.
Re-insert tension bolts into right-side coupling block 10) Replace the cable carrier bracket, and the cable carrier onto the bracket with the appropriate hardware. 11) Mount the X-home sensor onto the new reversing unit in the proper orientation and location. 12) Remove the four angle brackets from the top and bottom ends of the gantry. Remove all four T-nuts as well. 13) Make test cuts to confirm normal operation, and check accuracy of X-axis border.
X - Axis Main Belt Replacement The two X-axis main belts should only be replaced as a matched pair. Replacing only one of the belts may cause inconsistent cut results. This procedure will cover replacement of the top X-axis belt, since this one is slightly more difficult to access. The procedure for replacement of the bottom belt is virtually identical. 1) Turn off power to the machine, and move the gantry to the right to the approximate center of the frame.
4) Loosen the top torque rod coupling bolts (4) enough to permit free rotation of the top X-axis reversing unit shaft. (3/16” Allen wrench) 5) Remove the two 3/8” nuts from the underside of the X-axis cable carrier bracket. Pull the cables upward to remove the small bolts from the bracket.
6) Remove the two screws from the cable carrier bracket, and remove it from the adapter block. 7) Measure the length of the bolts protruding beyond the belt coupling nuts. Record the measurement for use later when reassembling the new belt.
8) Loosen the two belt coupling tension bolts to reduce tension on the belt. Then remove the single M5 bolt mounting the belt coupling to the adapter block. 9) Remove the two tension bolts completely from the coupling, and carefully note the orientation of each end of the belt in the coupling hardware.
10) Remove both ends of the belt from the couplings. Push the belt as shown to force the wedge free of the coupling block. 11) Tape one end of the new belt to either end of the existing belt with strapping tape, as shown. Try to keep the gap between the belt ends close to the actual tooth spacing.
12) Carefully pull the opposite end of the original belt out through the reversing unit as you feed the spliced ends of the old and new belts into the other reversing unit. Keep pulling until the splice comes out at the back of the second reversing unit. 13) Remove the tape splice, and insert both ends of the belt into the coupling properly. 14) Insert both tension bolts into the coupling hardware, and take up most of the belt slack.
Adapter Plate Replacement The two adapter plates or “blocks” will only require replacement in the event of an undetected machining error, i.e. holes drilled too deeply, resulting in a weakened mount to the belt coupling. The detailed instructions below cover the top X-axis adapter plate. Steps 1 – 4 are identical to the above belt replacement procedure. 1) Turn off power to the machine, and move the gantry to the right to the approximate center of the frame.
6) Remove the four longer M5 bolts which mount the adapter plate to the rear of the bearing cart, and remove the plate from the machine. 7) Remove the X-axis sensor magnet bracket from the right side of the adapter plate with a 5/32” Allen wrench. Note the orientation of the bracket prior to removing it, and measure its precise location on the adapter block.
8) Mount the new adapter block to the bearing cart with the four M5 bolts, align it with the bearing cart, and tighten the bolts securely. 9) Replace the single M5 bolt from the adapter block to the belt coupling, and tighten it securely. 10) Replace the X-sensor magnet onto the right side of the adapter plate. Position the bracket so that there is ¼” of vertical distance between the magnet and the X-axis home sensor.
1 Replacement of Main Y – Axis Drive Belt 1) Turn off power to the F-6100, and disconnect the main air hose from the rear of the machine. 2) Remove the cutting head; follow “Cutting Head Removal” procedure. 3) Mark the top edge of the cutting head mounting plate with a pencil, then remove the 4 flat head bolts with a 5mm Allen wrench. Note: check for any shim washers behind the mounting plate, and note the location(s).
2 6) Using a 2mm Allen wrench, loosen both tensioning screws on the top of the Yaxis bearing cart. Turn each screw exactly 3 full turns counter-clockwise. 7) Remove the two upper belt coupling screws from the bearing cart with a 3mm Allen wrench. Slide the belt and coupling plate downward from the cart, and carefully note the orientation and location of the belt on the toothed plate. You may mark the belt or toothed plate to aid in re-assembly.
3 8) Remove the two lower, fixed belt coupling screws as well, and slide the belt and coupling downward from the bearing cart. Note the orientation and location of the belt and coupling plate, and mark as needed. 8b 8a 9) Remove the Y-axis motor housing from the top of the Y-gantry. 10) Loosen the four motor mounting bolts, and slide the motor to the left to create slack in the motor belt. Remove the belt from the large-diameter pulley.
4 11) Remove the main drive belt from the Y-gantry by pulling it through both top and bottom reversing units. 12) Insert the replacement belt into the lower reversing unit a few inches. Guide the belt around the reversing unit toothed pulley with a metal ruler or small screwdriver. When you have successfully routed the belt around the lower reversing unit, continue to feed the belt up through the channel inside the Y-gantry extrusion beam.
5 Insert belt into left slot in reversing unit Use steel ruler to aid in belt turn around inside of reversing unit 14) Insert the top end of the belt and coupling plate into the bearing cart, and partially insert the two coupling screws. Do not tighten the screws yet. 15) Insert the lower end of the belt and coupling into the bottom edge of the cart. Insert the coupling screws, align the belt with the center mark on the cart, and tighten the screws securely.
6 16) Align the top end of the belt with the center mark on the cart then tighten the two tensioning screws on the top edge exactly 3 full turns each clockwise. (2mm wrench) Align belt coupling to center mark on cart Tighten screws after belt is properly tensioned 17) Confirm proper belt alignment, then tighten the top two belt coupling screws securely. Slide the Y-axis cart up and down a few times to check. 18) Replace the two bearing wipe assemblies onto the top and bottom of the cart.
7 Optional Method: 1) De-couple the Y-axis belt from the bearing cart, as above. 2) Tape the upper end of the existing belt to one end of the new belt. Use heavy-duty strapping tape, and tape the ends together in alignment. Try to maintain equal belt tooth spacing in the gap between the ends of the belt.
Y-Gantry Replacement The Y-gantry assembly may be replaced in the event of damage or premature wear to the steel bearing tracks.
4) Follow the “Removing the Cutting Head” procedure. Remove the cutting head mounting plate as well, using a 5mm Allen wrench to remove the four flat-head M5 bolts. Mark the top edge of the plate prior to removal. Mark Top edge of plate and remove 4 bolts 5) Mark the location of the Y-home magnet bracket onto the upper bearing wipe assembly. Remove the magnet bracket from the bearing wipe assembly. (5/32” Allen wrench).
7) Remove the two L-bracket bolts from the front of the bearing cart, (5mm wrench), and move the bracket and cable carrier chain away from the cart and gantry. 8) Trace the gantry location onto the standoff blocks with a sharp pencil on both sides of the bottom end of the gantry, and on the right side of the top of the gantry. This will aid in aligning the new gantry during re-assembly. 9) Disconnect the Y-axis motor cable from the top-rear of the gantry.
10) Loosen the four motor mounting bolts, and remove the Y-axis motor belt. 11) Remove the motor mount nuts and bolts completely, and carefully remove the Y-axis motor from the rear of the mounting plate. 12) If a new large-diameter pulley and motor mounting plate have not been supplied, you must now remove the pulley from the reversing unit shaft. Loosen the two set screws with a 1/8” Allen wrench and pry the pulley from the shaft. A “gear puller” tool may be used, if necessary.
Gear Puller tool in proper position Turn “Pusher” bolt Clockwise to remove pulley from shaft 5
13) Remove the motor mounting plate from the upper reversing unit by removing the 3 M5 bolts. Do not lose the captive lock nuts from the rear when removing these bolts. 14) On the back (cutting board), side of the Y-gantry, disconnect the wires to both upper and lower limit switches. Note the wire locations on the switch terminals prior to removing. Do not loosen or remove the switch or sensor mounting brackets at this time.
Disconnect Y-axis Home sensor cable Cut lower cable ties Pry yellow strip and wires from rear extrusion slot 7
16) Remove the flat-head bolt from the squaring adjustment tab on the bottom left of the gantry with a 5mm Allen wrench. Do not loosen or remove the adjusting bolt at this time. 17) Pry the yellow plastic strips from the slots in the front side of the Y-gantry extrusion in order to access the four gantry mounting bolts. Remove the bolts with a 6mm Allen wrench, and carefully remove the gantry assembly from the machine with assistance from another person, if needed.
Remove bottom 2 bolts first, then top 2 bolts 9
18) Carefully measure and record the distance from the gantry squaring tab to the extrusion. Remove the bolt and tab assembly completely with a 5mm Allen wrench. Also remove the yellow plastic strip from the left side of the gantry extrusion. 19) Transfer the squaring tab and bolt to the new gantry extrusion. Insert the bolt into the captive T-nut in the extrusion and tighten it fully. Adjust the tab/nuts to match the previously recorded distance from the tab to the extrusion (if needed).
20) Measure the locations of the limit switch and Y-home sensor brackets on the back of the original gantry beam. Remove each bracket bolt with a 5mm Allen wrench, pop out the spring-loaded T-nut, and transfer each bracket and switch to the new gantry beam in precisely the same location and orientation. Transfer the nylon cable holders to the new gantry as well.
23) Align and mount the squaring adjustment tab to the lower standoff block, and tighten the flat head bolt securely. Make sure that the gantry is aligned with the pencil line(s) you made on the lower standoff block, then tighten the two lower gantry mounting bolts securely as well. 24) Insert the Y-home and lower Y axis limit switch wires into the slot in the rear of the gantry extrusion. Snap the yellow molding strip over the wires to hold them in place.
Replacing Top Y-axis Reversing Unit 1) Shut down power to the machine normally. Remove the Y-axis (top) motor housings using either a 1/8” Allen wrench or a 5/16” nut driver. Y-axis motor housing 2) Disconnect the motor cable from behind the motor. Turn the locking collar counterclockwise and pull the plug straight out. 3) Remove the motor cable bracket from the top mounting plate (Y-axis). A 5mm “ball-end” Allen wrench is required.
Loosen all 4 motor mounting bolts, (3/8” socket or wrench and 5/32” Allen wrench), and slide the motor left towards the large pulley to create slack in the belt. Remove the belt from the motor pulley. Loosen 4 mount bolts and slide motor left to remove belt 1) Remove all four motor mounting bolts, taking care not to lose any of the nuts or washers. Use caution when removing the Y-axis motor; support the weight of the motor when removing the last of the bolts.
Uncoupling the Y-axis Drive Belt Head Removal Procedure 1) Shut down the F-6100 normally, and disconnect the main air hose from the rear of the machine (or compressor). Remove the blade magazine from the cutting head. 2) Remove the cover plate over the cutting head by removing the three Allen screws, as shown. (1/8” Allen wrench) 3) Disconnect the electrical connectors to the cutting head motor and C-axis sensor. Pinch the retaining latches together as you gently pull the brown connector blocks apart.
4) Remove both the black and clear air hoses from the cutting head. If your cutting head has the brass nipple connectors, pull on the hose firmly until it is removed. If you have the quickdisconnect fittings, push inward on the orange collar as you pull firmly downward on the hose. 5) Remove the four cutting head mounting bolts with a 5/32” Allen wrench, and carefully slide the head off to the right.
Belt Uncoupling and Reversing Unit Repair 1) Mark the top edge of the cutting head mounting plate with a pencil, then remove the 4 flat head bolts with a 5mm Allen wrench. Note: check for any shim washers behind the mounting plate, and note the location(s). Remove 4 flat head bolts 2) Remove the top bearing wipe assembly by removing the 3 screws with a 3mm Allen wrench.
3) Using a 2mm Allen wrench, loosen both tensioning screws on the top of the Yaxis bearing cart. Turn each screw exactly 3 full turns counter-clockwise. 4) Remove the two upper belt coupling screws from the bearing cart with a 3mm Allen wrench. Slide the belt and coupling plate upward from the cart, and carefully note the orientation and location of the belt on the toothed plate. You may mark the belt or toothed plate to aid in re-assembly.
7) Loosen and remove both recessed universal fastener bolts from the top end of the gantry with a 5mm Allen wrench. Pry away the yellow plastic strip from the left side of the gantry to access the bolt head, as shown. (Motor mounting plate and large pulley are not shown in the photo below). Remover recessed fasteners with ball-end 5mm Allen wrench 5) Remove the reversing unit (and motor and pulley, if still mounted), from the top of the gantry beam.
7) Using a small metal ruler or thin screwdriver, guide the belt around the internal pulley via the slot on the opposite side. Rotate the pulley as shown until the belt is guided around the internal reversing unit pulley and out from the bottom-right. 8) Insert both right and left universal fasteners into the gantry beam and thread partially into the reversing unit block. Align the unit properly, and tighten them both securely with a 5mm Allen wrench.
10) Align the top end of the belt with the center mark on the cart, then tighten the two tensioning screws on the top edge exactly 3 full turns each clockwise. (2mm wrench) Align belt coupling to center mark on cart Tighten screws after belt is properly tensioned 11) Confirm proper belt alignment, then tighten the top two belt coupling screws securely. Slide the Y-axis cart up and down a few times to check belt position.
14) Use a pry bar or other suitable tool to create proper tension on the belt, and tighten the mounting bolts as you maintain tension. There should be no more than ¼” of belt deflection when the motor mounting bolts have been tightened. Belt Deflection, ¼” maximum 15) Mount the cutting head plate back onto the Y-axis bearing cart. Make sure that the pencil mark you made previously is in the top position. Tighten all 4 flat head screws securely with a 5mm Allen wrench.
Uncoupling the Y-axis Drive Belt 1) Turn off power to the F-6100, and disconnect the main air hose from the rear of the machine. 2) Remove the cutting head; follow “Cutting Head Removal” procedure. 3) Mark the top edge of the cutting head mounting plate with a pencil, then remove the 4 flat head bolts with a 5mm Allen wrench. Note: check for any shim washers behind the mounting plate, and note the location(s).
6) Remove the two upper belt coupling screws from the bearing cart with a 3mm Allen wrench. Slide the belt and coupling plate downward from the cart, and carefully note the orientation and location of the belt on the toothed plate. You may mark the belt or toothed plate to aid in re-assembly.
Resetting the Motion Controller; “Reset B” Procedure There are at four methods of running the Reset B self-diagnostic utility: • • • • F-6100 program; Advanced Settings MEI Utilities disc Start > Run command Through MS-DOS Prompt The simplest method of running the Resetb utility is through the F-6100 program itself. From the Single-opening screen, click Settings > Advanced Settings.
“Manual” Reset B Procedure Exit the F-6100 program, and press the Emergency Stop knob. Click the Start button, then Run. Type the following command into the Run text line exactly: C:\mei\25\setup\config –b0x340 then click OK. (Make sure to type a space between the g in config and the - ). The DOS window will then open to run the Resetb utility file. Press the Enter (or any) key to continue and complete the diagnostic.
“Finished” indicates that diagnostic has run successfully MS DOS Prompt Option You may also run the Reset B utility through the MS DOS prompt, if all other attempts have failed. Exit the F-6100 program, and press the Emergency stop knob, as above. Click Start > Programs > “MS DOS Prompt”. When the MS DOS window opens, type the commands as shown below: 1) From C:\WINDOWS, type CD.. press Enter. 2) From C:\> type CD MEI (space between), then Enter. 3) From C:\MEI> type CD 25 press Enter.
Press any key to continue and complete the diagnostic. MS DOS Reset B completed Note: Typing of characters is not case-dependent; shown as capitals above for clarity only. Some F-6100 controllers may show in the utility as “4 axis controller” . This is OK, and merely indicates a different MEI board version. Only 3 of the 8 available axes are actually used to operate the machine.
1 Operating Motion Console The F-6100 comes with a full diagnostic software utility, which is loaded during the F6100 program installation as part of the “MEI” directory. Motion Console allows the user to operate all three motor axes, as well as the pneumatic system. Home sensor and limit switch function can also be verified. Press in the Emergency Stop knob on the F-6100 controller before opening Motion Console.
2 The initial screen that will be accessed when Motion Console is opened is the Hardware Summary. This screen shows the basic status of the motion controller firmware (MEI board), indicated by either a yellow smiley face (OK) or a red sad face (Bad) symbol in the upper left of the screen. (see below) On the right side of the Hardware Summary screen will be listed the 3 motor axes of the F-6100, shown as Axis 0 (X), Axis 1 (Y), and Axis 2 (C).
3 Once the Axis Operation window has been opened, click the Relative Mode button (1), then the Enable radio button (2), and the Clear Fault button (3), as shown above. Verify that the Increment value is set to 5202 (1 inch of X or Y axis movement), and that the Velocity and Acceleration are set to 15000 and 30000 respectively. These are default settings only, and may be altered to check for specific motion control problems.
4 Position Status - 5 Home and Limit Status Axis Status: State, Source & Clear Fault As the head and/or gantry are moving, you will notice the numbers changing in the yellow “Position Status” boxes at the upper left of the screen. (5) These numbers indicate the total amount of movement of this axis, in steps. Right arrow commands increase the Command and Actual fields, left arrow commands decrease them. Click the Clear Position button below the yellow fields to reset all the Position Status numbers to 0.
5 Motion Console Diagnostics There are a number of possible problems that can be diagnosed by the systematic use of the Motion Console utility. One of the more common uses is to isolate a suspected defective motor axis driver board. This procedure demonstrates one method of using Motion Console to determine the exact cause of a machine malfunction. Reported problem: Machine makes loud grinding sound when moving / trying to cut.
6 Proceed on to check operation of Controller 0, Axis 1 (Y-axis motor) When attempting to operate the Y-axis motor, a loud noise is heard, and the Y-motor does not move as commanded. The following may be deduced thus far: • Power supply and Y-axis fuse – OK (power is reaching the Y-driver board and motor, since noise is occurring.
7 Press in the Emergency Stop knob again. Return the P201 and P203 external cable plugs to the correct sockets. Remove the top access panel from the electronics enclosure (6 – 3/32” Allen screws) We now know that the entire X-axis portion of the system is OK, and that the Y-axis motor and external cable is functioning normally as well. The next step is to rule out an internal cable as the source of the Y-axis malfunction.
1 Pneumatics Panel and Components The pneumatics panel is located on the rear of the F-6100 frame and contains most of the critical components of the pneumatics system. This section covers the replacement of the entire pneumatics panel and its modular system components, including the button clamp cylinders. Pneumatics Panel Replacement (part no. 12-849) 1) Shut down the F-6100 system normally, and unplug the main air hose from the pneumatics panel connection.
2 4) Trace the location of the top edge of the panel plate onto each of the frame extrusions with a pencil. This will assure that the replacement panel is located precisely on the frame. 5) Remove the 2 mounting bolts from the panel with a 5mm Allen wrench. Take care not to allow the panel to slide downward too much as the bolts are loosened. (You may need assistance from another person for steps 5 and 6.
3 downward firmly to connect, then pull upward to make sure that each hose is fully inserted. 8) Re-connect the control cable plug into the top of the panel. Be sure to turn the locking collar clockwise as far as it will go, until you feel a slight detent. 9) Plug the main air hose back onto the male fitting on the pneumatics panel. Verify that the compressor is turned on, and that the three air gauges on the panel are set to 50, 30, and 32 psi, reading left to right.
4 “PC” valve Replacement The most commonly replaced pneumatic components are the “PC”, or Pneumatic Control valves on the pneumatics panel. These are numbered PC 0, 1, and 2, and control air flow to the cutting head, clamps, and head back pressure respectively. The PC valves are electrically controlled solenoid valves, and can be replaced relatively easily. 1) Shut down the F-6100 normally, or push in the Emergency Stop knob to turn off power to the pneumatics panel.
5 3) Using a small, flat blade screwdriver, remove the two mounting screws from the body of the PC valve assembly. Make sure that you remove the screws on the left side of the valve, and not the smaller, recessed screws on the right side. (See photo) 4) Pull the valve firmly off the manifold once the screws have been removed. A small rubber gasket may remain stuck to either the valve body or the manifold surface. You will need this gasket if the replacement PC valve did not come with one attached.
6 6) Plug the electrical control wires back into the right side of the PC valve. Turn the machine back on, and plug the main air line back into the pneumatics panel. Check the operation of the valve with the manual actuating button, and feel/listen for air leaks when the button is held down. This button will either be brass or black plastic.(see photo) You may use a pen or small screwdriver to actuate the button. Verify the proper operation of the new PC valve by cutting a test mat.
7 1) Disconnect the main air hose from the pneumatics panel. 2) Disconnect each air hose from the fittings which are connected to the Head pressure regulator, as shown. Push inward on the locking collar as you pull the air hose out of the fitting. You may label each hose with tape to help remind you of its proper connection / location when re-assembling.
8 4) Insert the new regulator from below, and tighten the lock ring securely. Connect the air hoses into the proper fittings, and tug on each to assure that they are fully inserted. Lift up and remove adjustment knob 5) Reconnect the main air hose to the pneumatics panel, check the hose connections for any air leaks, and the gauge for the correct pressure. (The Head, or Main pressure gauge should be set to 50+ psi.
9 4) Remove the two screws from the electrical socket with a 3/32” Allen wrench and 5/16” wrench (see photo), and remove the socket and wires from the panel. 5) Mount the replacement wire harness to the top of the pneumatics panel. Orient the cable socket in the same manner as the original, and make sure to mount the ground wire terminal so that the metal tab is in contact with the panel plate. Tighten both mounting screws snugly.
10 3) Remove the two mounting wood screws from the cylinder flange with a Philips screwdriver, and remove the button clamp cylinder from the board. 4) Insert the replacement clamp cylinder into the cutting board, and orient the holes in the flange to align with the existing holes in the particle board so that the air fittings on the cylinder are located most conveniently for re-insertion of the hoses. Tighten the two wood screws securely, but do not over-tighten or you will strip the holes in the board.
1 “PC” valve Replacement The most commonly replaced pneumatic components are the “PC”, or Pneumatic Control valves on the pneumatics panel. These are numbered PC 0, 1, and 2, and control air flow to the cutting head, clamps, and head back pressure respectively. The PC valves are electrically controlled solenoid valves, and can be replaced relatively easily. 1) Shut down the F-6100 normally, or push in the Emergency Stop knob to turn off power to the pneumatics panel.
2 3) Using a small, flat blade screwdriver, remove the two mounting screws from the body of the PC valve assembly. Make sure that you remove the screws on the left side of the valve, and not the smaller, recessed screws on the right side. (See photo) 4) Pull the valve firmly off the manifold once the screws have been removed. A small rubber gasket may remain stuck to either the valve body or the manifold surface. You will need this gasket if the replacement PC valve did not come with one attached.
3 6) Plug the electrical control wires back into the right side of the PC valve. Turn the machine back on, and plug the main air line back into the pneumatics panel. Check the operation of the valve with the manual actuating button, and feel/listen for air leaks when the button is held down. This button will either be brass or black plastic.(see photo) You may use a pen or small screwdriver to actuate the button. Verify the proper operation of the new PC valve by cutting a test mat.
