How to Build Brick and Stone Veneer Walls

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Veneer masonry is a popular choice for home building and

remodeling, because it gives the appearance of a solid brick or stone

wall while providing better economy and insulation. It can be used as

an addition to conventional wood frame structures, and can be placed

on concrete block walls. Depending on personal preference, it may

cover an entire wall from foundation to roof, or it can stop at

windowsill level.

• QUIKRETE® Mortar Mix or Mason Mix

• Brick or stones

• Gravel or crushed stone

• Reinforcing rebar

• Forming lumber and stakes (optional, needed only if making new forms)

• Flashing

• Sheathing

• Galvanized metal wall ties

• Masonry nails or stud gun

• Rubber hose

• Story pole

• Steel angle (optional)

• Pickax

• Square-faced shovel

• Trowel

• Tamper

• Saw

• Wooden wedges

• Screed

• Level

Preparing the Foundation

If the footing of the house extends out 6" or more, the veneer can rest

directly on top of it. If the footing is less that 6", it must be "extended"

before the veneer can be placed on it. To "extend" the footing, either

bolt a corrosion-resistant steel angle to the existing foundation or pou

a new footing next to the foundation. If you are making a new footing,

pour a few inches above ground level, then start the veneer at that

point. The veneer must always be tied to the old foundation; to ensure

a good bond, wash the old foundation surface, and coat it with

QUIKRETE® Mortar Mix or Mason Mix.

Summary of content (4 pages)

PAGE 1
Veneer masonry is a popular choice for home building and remodeling, because it gives the appearance of a solid brick or stone wall while providing better economy and insulation. It can be used as an addition to conventional wood frame structures, and can be placed on concrete block walls. Depending on personal preference, it may cover an entire wall from foundation to roof, or it can stop at windowsill level.
PAGE 2
Laying a Brick Veneer Wall 1. Install flashing over the footing to prevent water from seeping behind the veneer. Copper, aluminum, lead, or roofing paper may be used for this. Spread a ½" bed of mortar on top of the footing, then push the flashing down firmly into it. (It is a good idea to install flashing at the heads and sills of doors and windows as well.) 2. Cover the existing siding with a good sheathing material, such as tarpaper. Always leave a 1"air space between the sheathing and the veneer. 3.
PAGE 3
height. A story pole may be helpful for accuracy. 7. When you reach a windowsill, lay the bricks on edge in "rowlock" fashion as shown in the illustration. The bricks should also be installed on a slant in the direction of the rainfall. For bricks being laid above the windows and doors, a steel lintel must be used as a base. The lintel is set onto the course, even with the head of the window or door; it must overlap the bricks by 3" to 4" on both sides of the window or door. 8.
PAGE 4
When laying stone veneer on a concrete black wall, the procedure is very similar to the laying of a brick veneer wall: 1. With the masonry nails or stud gun, attach wall ties to the wall every 2 or 3 square feet. (If the concrete block wall is being built from scratch, insert the ties in the mortar joints between blocks.) 2. Attach the stones to each other to the wall with mortar.